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THE 


TRAVELER'S   GUIDE 


TO  TIIE 


HUDSON  RIVER, 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  LAKE   GEORGE, 

FALLS  OF  NIAGARA  AND  THOUSAND   ISLANDS; 
MONTREAL,     QUEBEC, 

AND   THE 

SAGUENAY  RIVER; 

ALSO,    TO   THE 

GREEN  AND  WHITE  MOUNTAINS, 

AND  OTUEll   PARTS  OP 

NEW    ENGLAND; 

FORMING  THE  FASHIONABLE   NORTREKN  TOUR  THROUGH  TIIB 

UNITED  STATES  AND  CANADA. 

WITH     MAP     AND     EMBELLISHMENTS. 


1.  »  »  , 


•  •  ^ 


♦  «i  * 


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COMPILED  BY  X  MSTURSELL. 


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»  •        I     »    I.    »  <i       »     -  .      . 

WeU)  Yorft: 
rUBLISHED  BY  THE  ''AMERICAN  NEWS  COMPANY,'* 

121  NASSAU  STREET; 
A»D  FOR  Sai,ib  by  a.  WILLIAMS  &  CO.,  Boston  ;  DAWSON  A 

B£OTH£B,  MOKTBXAI. ;  and  by  BoOKSELLESb  ofvkbau^y. 


•1 


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Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1864,  by 

JOHN     DI8TUBNELL,  '''"'■• 

In  the  Qerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  Statee  for  tb« 
Southern  District  of  New  York. 


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TO  THE  READER. 


The  arrangement  of  the  Picturesque  Tourist  will  be 
fouud  to  differ,  in  some  respects,  from  works  of  the  same 
class. 

The  general  object  of  this  book  is  to  furnish  a  convenient 
and  faithful  guide  for  strangers,  whether  traveling  on  busi- 
ness, or  for  pleasure,  or  health,  through  the  northern  section 
of  the  United  States  and  the  Ganadas. 

The  city  of  New  York,  as  being  the  principal  commercial 
emporium  in  the  country,  and  the  chief  center  of  resort,  in 
the  first  instance,  for  distant  travelers,  whether  native  or 
foreign,  is  chosen  as  the  point  from  which  the  tourist  is  sup- 
posed to  commence  his  excursion.  Starting  thence,  this  Guide 
will  conduct  him  along  the  principal  lines  of  travel  North  and 
West.  Northward  he  will  proceed  up  the  Hudson  River, 
through  the  flourishing  cities  at  the  head  of  navigation,  to  the 
famous  Springs  at  Ballston  and  Saratoga — thence  to  Lake 
George,  and  by  the-  way  of  Lake  Champlain  into  Canada. 
Westward,  over  the  line  of  the  JVew  York  Central  Railroad, 
through  the  rich  midland  and  western  counties  of  the  State 
of  New  York,  to  Niagara  Falls  and  Buffalo — thence  northerly 


37330 


iv  TO   THE   READER. 

through  Cana(Ja,  pasRing  over  Lake  Ontario  and  down  the  flt. 
Lawrence  to  Montreal,  Quebec,  and  the  Saguenay  River,-— 
returning  by  the  way  of  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hiimp- 
shire,  Portland,  Boston,  etc. ;  or  by  the  more  direct  route  via 
Lake  Charaplain,  Lake  George,  and  Saratoga  Springs  to  Troy 
and  Albany — noticing,  on  each  route,  the  places  and  scenery 
most  worthy  of  the  attention  of  the  tourist,  either  for  mem- 
orable events  or  for  local  attractions,  and  aiming,  in  the  ac- 
counts of  them,  more  at  simple  accuracy  than  at  embellished 
deHcription.  Such  are  the  scope  and  design  of  this  Traveler's 
Guide.  J.  D. 

New  Tobk,  June,  1861 


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CONTENTS. 


Pag« 
Table  of  Distances,  etc.,  from  the  city  of  New  York  to 

the  principal  Cities  in  the  Northern  Htates  and  Canada.  13 

New  York  and  Harlem  Railroad  Route 15 

Hudson  River  Railroad  Route 17 

Tour  from  New  York  to  Albany,  Troy,  etc.,  via  Hud- 
son River 19 

Jersey  City — Hoboken — Weehawken — Manhattan ville. . .  20 
Fort  Washington — Fort  Leo— Palisades— Spuy ten  Duyvel 

Creek 21 

Yonkers — Hastings — Dobbs*  Ferry — Piermont 22 

Tappan  Bay — Irvington — Tarry  town 23 

Nyack — Rockland  Lake — Sing-Sing 24 

Croton,  or  Teller's,   Point  —  Haverstraw — Verplanck's 

Point 26 

Caldwell's  Landing — Peekskill 27 

Mahopac  Lake — Fort  Independence— Highlands 28 

West  Point— U.  8.  Military  Academy 29 

Coldspring — Beacon  Hill •  •  •  * 31 

Crow's  Nest — Cornwall — New  burgh 32 

Fishkill— Matteawan — Glenham 33 

New  Hamburgh — Milton — Poughkeepsie 34 

New  Paltz— Hyde  Park 86 

Esopus  Meadows — Rondout — Kingston 36 

Rhinebeck — Barry  town 87 

Tivoli — Saugerties — Catskill 38 

Catskill  Mountain  Houge — Pine  Orchard 39 

City  of  Hudson 40 

Columbia  Springs 41 

New  Lebanon  Springs — Co&sackie 42 

Btuy  vesant — Coeymans — Overslaugh 43 

City  of  Albany 44 

New  York  Ceutrtd  BaUroad 47 


Vi  CONTENTS. 

Albany  Ninety  Years  Since 49 

City  of  Troy— West  Troy 60 

Lansingburgh — Waterford — Cohoes  Falls 58,  64 

HiTOBON  ill VER  Steamboats 56 

Clermont,  or  Experiment  Boat 67 

Tour  to  Saratoga  Springs,  Lake  George,  etc,  : 

Railroad  Routes — Ballaton  Spa 69 

Saratoga  Springs 60 

Analysis  of  the  Principal  Springs 01-^9 

Route  to  Lake  George,  Lake  Champlain,  etc 70 

Western  Tour  : 

City  of  Schenectady 71 

Amsterdam — Fonda — Johnstown — Palatine  Bridge 78 

Sharon  Springs 74 

Cooperstown — Richfield  Springs 76 

Fort  Plain— St.  Johnsville— Little  Falls 76 

West  Canada  Creek — Herkimer — Mohawk 77 

City  of  Utica 78 

Trenton  Falls 79 

Whitesborough — Oriskany 81 

Rome — Oneida  Depot—  Canastota 82 

Chittenango — Cazenovia — Syracuse 83 

Geddes — Liverpool — Onondaga  Salt  Springs 84 

Caraillus — Jordan — Skaneateles — Auburn 86 

Weedsport— Port  Byron — Montezuma 87 

Cayuga  Lake 88 

Cayuga  Village — Springport 89 

Levanna — Aurora 90 

Sheldrake  Point — Ithaca 91 

Lakes  OF  Western  New  York  : 

Oneida  Lake — Onondaga  Lake 92 

Otisco  Lake — Cayuga  Lake — Seneca  Lake 93 

Canandaigua  Lake 94 

Crooked  Lake — Chautauque  Lake 96 

Seneca  Falls 96 

Waterloo  —Geneva 97 

Clyde— Lyons 98 

Newark — Palmyra — Clifton  Springs 99 

Canandaigua — Rochester 100 

Avon  Springs 103 

Batavia — Attica — Brockport 104 

Albion — Medina — Lockport 105 

Niagara  Falls .* 106 

City  of  Buflfalo 107 


CONTENTS.  irtf 

••''  .  ^  Pag« 

Buffalo  to  Niagara  Falls,  Toronto,  etc.  :  '  •  . 

Fort  Erie— Grand  Island— Navy  Island — Chippewa — 
Falls  of  Niagara — Clifton— Queenston — Brock's  Monu- 
ment—Niagara— Fort  George 109-113 

Niagara  River  : 
Its   Rapids,   Falls,   Islands,   and  Romantic  Scenery — 
Qrand  Irfland — Tonawanda — Iris,  or  Goat  Isiand...  .114-118 

Cataract  of  Niagara : 

American  Fall — Canadian,  or  Horse  Shoe,  Fall — ?'i8pen- 
gion  Bridge— Whirlpool  and  Rapids— Maid  of  the  Mist — 
Niagara  Falls  Village— Lewiston—Youngstown 119-126 

Lake  Ontario  : 
Beautiful  Mirage,  Route,  etc 127,  128 

Steamboat  Routes  : 
Lake  Ontario  and  River  St.  Lawrence  Steamers 129,  130 

Trip  from  Lewiston  to  Obwego,  Kingston,  and  Og- 
densburgh : 
Fort   Niagara — Charlotte,   or   Port    Genesee — Genesee 
River— Great  Sodus  Bay — Little  Sodus  Bay — Oswego.  131-138 

Railroad  and  Steamboat  Route  from  Syracuse  to 

Niagara  Falls,  via  Oswego 189 

Oswego  to  Kingston,  Ogdensburgh,  etc.  : 
Port  Ontario — Salmon  River — Sacket's  Harbor — Black 
River  —  Chaumont  Bay  —  Cape  Vincent  —  Clayton,  or 
French,  Creek — Alexandria  Bay — Well's  Island — Mor- 
ristown — Ogdensburgh 140-144 

Trip  from  Niagara  and  Hamilton  to  Toronto  and 
Kingston,  Canada  : 
Port  Dalhousie — Welland  Canal — St.  Catherine's — Ham- 
ilton— Oakville — Port  Credit  —  Toronto  —  Oshawa — 
Port  Hope — Cobourg — Duck  Island— Amherst  Island — 
Kingston 145-164 

Kingston  to  Belleville  and  Port  Trenton  : 
Bay   of   Quint6 — Fredericksburg — Picton — Belleville — 
Port  Trenton— River  Trent — Rice  Lake *.  .165-167 

List  'of  American  and  British  Steamers 158-161 

Canals  of  Canada — ^Trade  and  Navigation 160-102 

Trip  from  Kingston  to  Montreal: 
Thousand  islands — Wolfe,  or  Grand,  Island — Gage  Isl-      ' 
and — Howe  Island — Carlton  Island — Grindstone  Island — 
I      Admiralty  Islands — Amateur  Islands— Brock ville — Pr'js- 
cott-  Ogdensburgh— Windmill  Point— Gallop  Rapids — 
Matilda  —  Waddington  —  Williamsburg  —  Louiaville  —    ' 


.••• 


▼ill  CONTENTS. 

Long  Saut  Rapids — Cornwall — St.  Regis — Lake  St.  Fran- 
cis -  Coteau  du  Lac  —  Cedar  Rapids  —  Beauharnois — 
Caughnawaga — La  Chine  Rapids — St.  Lawrence  River 
and  Rapids 163-176 

Railroad  Route  from   Montreal  to  Toronto,  via 

Grand  Trunk  Railway  : 
f    St.  Anne's—Isle  Perot — Vaudreuil — Cornwall,  etc. . .  177-179 

Montreal : 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  etc 180-186 

Trip  from  Montreal  to  Ottawa  City,  etc.: 

St.  Anise's — Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains — Carillon — Point 
Fortune— Grenville — Rideau  Falls — Chaudiere  Falls — 
City  of  Ottawa — Aylmer — Arnprior — Pembroke 186-190 

Chaudiere  Falis,  etc 191-196 

Laj^k  Gkorge  : 
Caldwell— Falls  of  Ticonderoga,  etc : 197-200 

Lake  Champlain: 
Mississquoi  Bay,  etc 201-203 

List  of  Steamers  running  on  Lake  Champlain — Table  of 
Distances— Whitehall,  etc 204-206 

Trip  from  Whitehall  to  Rouse's  Point,  etc.  : 

Ticonderoga — Crown  Point — Port  Henry — Westport —  * 
Fort  Cassin — Split  Rock — Essex — Burlington— Port 
Kent  —  Keeseville  —  Au  Sable  River  —  Port  Jaclcson— 
pLATTfBUhGH  —  Battle  of  Plattsburgh  —  Cumberland 
Head  —  Chazy  —  Isle  au  Motte  —  Alburgh  —  Highgate 
Springs— Nississquoi  Bay — Rouse's  Point -St.  John's, 
Canada— Chambly  Canal 207-230 

Table  of  Distances  : 
Montreal  to  Albany,  Portland,  Quebec,  Toronto,  etc.  231,  282 

Trip  from  Montreal  to  Quebec  : 

Longueuil— Rapids  of  St.  Mary — Varennes— Sorel,  or     .. 
William  Henry — Lake  St.  Peter — Three  Rivers — Riche- 
lieu Rapids— Cape  Rouge— Wolfe's  Cove 233*237 

QuKBEC  : 

The  Citadel — Plains  of  Abraham — ^Wolfe's  Monument — 
Gen.  Montgomery 237-246 

Vicinity  of  Quebec  : 
Cape  Rouge— Falls  of  Lorette— Falls  of  Montmorenci — 
Falls  of   St,   Anne— Lake  St.  Charles — Point  Levi — 
Chaudiere  Falls 247-250 


CONTENTS.  \X 

»  Page 

Trip  from  Quebec  to  thr  Saourxay  River,  etc.  : 
•     Island  of  Orleans — St.  Patrick's  Hole — Madam  fsland — 
Cape    Tourment — Grosse    Island — St.   Thomas— Crane 
Island — Isle  aux  Coudres— Murray  Bay — Kamouraska — 
Red  Island — Ilivcrdu  Loup — Kakouna — Tadousac. .  251  -259 

Saouenay  Rivkr  : 

Tote  du  Boule  — St.  Louis  Island — Eternity  Point  and 
Cape  Trinity— Tableau— Ha-Ha,  or  Great  Bay — Chicon- 
■     timi— Lake  St.  John 260-265 

Trip  to  Murray  Bay,  Tadousac,  Ha-Ha  Bay,  etc. .260-208 

A.NTIPOSTI  * 

Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  etc 269-271 

Railroad  and  Steamijoat  Routes 272 

Grand  Pleasure  Excursion  : 

New  York  to  Niagara  Falls,  Toronto,  Montreal,  etc.  273-276 

Trip  from  Msijjtreal  to  Quebec  and  Return 276-279 

Montreal  to  Boston  and  New  York 280,  281 

RouTF^  OF  Travel  from  Montreal  to  Boston  and  New  York  281 

Route  from  Montreal  and  Quebec  to  the  White  Mountains, 
and  Portland,  Me. 282 

White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire 283-286 

Height  of  the  Principal  Mountains 287 

Routes  to  Lake  Winnipisiogee  and  the  White  Mountains .  288 

Portland,  City  of 288-289 

Railway  Stations  in  Boston 290 

Railroad  Routes  Diverging  from  Boston . . .' 291-293 

Steamboat  and  Railroad  Routes  from  Nqw  York  to  the 
White  Mountains 294 

Advertisements  . .  > 296 


•'*. 


LIST  OF  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Pagu 

New  York  and  Albany  Steamers  (People's)  Evening  Line.  295 

New  York  and  Troy  Steamers,  Evening  Line 296 

New  York  and  Albany  Steamers,  Morning  Line 297 

New  York,  Stonington,  and  Boston  Line  Steamers 298 

Lake  George  Steamer 299 

Lake  Champlain  Steamers 300 

Lake  Ontario  and  St.  Lawrence  Steamers 301 

Lake  Huron  and  Superior  Line  Steamers 302 

Ottawa  Kiver  Mail  Steamers 303 

Montreal  and  Quebec  Steamers — Saguenay  River 304 

New  York  Central  Railroad  Lines  to  Butfalo,  Niagara 

Falls,  etc 305 

Albany  and  Troy  to  Saratoga  Springs,  Montreal,  etc 306 

Albany  and  Troy  to  Rutland,  Burlington,  Montreal,  etc.  307 

Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada 308 

Grand  Trunk  Railway  of  Canada,  etc 309 

Sea- Bathing  Pleasure  Excursions 811 

Boston  to  Portland  via  Eastern  Railroad 312 

Boston  to  Portland  via  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad 313 

Boston  to  the  Green  and  White  Mountains,   Montreal, 

etc.,  via  Vermont  Central  Railroad 314 

Boston  to  Portland,  Eastport,  and  St.  Johns,  N.  B.,  via 

International  Line  Steamers 315 

Hotels  in  the  City  of  New  York 11 

'  •        Saratoga  Springs,  etc 318 

*♦        Lake  George 319 

*♦        Montreal,  Quebec,  Ottawa  City,  etc 320 

**        Boston 322 

Congress  Spring  Water,  Saratoga  Springs 323 

Empire  Spring  Water,        ♦♦  **      324 


PRINCIPAL  HOTELS  IN  THE  CITY  OF  NEW  YORK. 

Name.  I'l'opili^tiit'H.  Locution. 

"Abtoe  Housb Stetson  &  Co Broadway,  cor.  V<'8ey  St. 

Bancroft  House M.  L.  «fc  A.  W.  Bordwell.Broadway,  cor.  20lh  St. 

Bond  Stkket  Housb.  ..Clmrlea  Fl'mta 665  Broadway. 

Bbandrktii  House*....  J.  Curtis  &  Co Broadway,  cor.  Canal  St 

Brbvoort  House* Albert  Clark 11  Fifth  Avenue. 

Clarendon Kerner  &  Birch 62  Union  Place. 

Commercial  Hotel  ....  78  Cortlandt  St. 

Cortlandt  St.  Hotel.  .  28  Corilandt  St. 

Dky  Street  House*  . .  .Charles  W.  Clickenor. .  .54,  56,  and  58  Dey  St 

Earl's  Hotel Canal  St.  cor.  Centre. 

Everett  House 4th  Avenue,  cor.  17th  St 

Fifth  Avenue  HoTEL..Hitchcock,I)arling&Co.l92  Fifth  Avenue. 

Frbncu'b  Hotel* Chatham  St.,  op.  C.  HalL 

GiRARu  HousK*  Smith  &  Willard 129  Chambers  St. 

Howard  Hotel Lyndi*  &  Lamb B'way,  cor.  Maiden  Lane 

International  HoTEL*William  H.  Gilson Broadway,  cor.  Franl;lin 

Lafaroe  House Henry  Wheeler 673  Broadway.  [SU 

LiBBY  House M.Martin 58  Warren  St. 

Lovejoy's  Hotel* 84  Parlt  Row. 

Manhattax  Hotel N.  Huggins Murray  St.,  near  B'way. 

MerciiantvS'  Hotel Cla'ke  ASchenck 87, 89,  &  41  Cortlandt  St 

Metropolitan  Hotel.  S.  Leland  &  Co 680  Broadway. 

National  Hotel Jesse  Foster 8,  5,  &  7  Cortlandt  St 

New  York  Hotel Hiram  Cranston 721  Broadway. 

Pacific  Hotel. 172  Greenwich  St 

Park  Hotel Cor.  Beekman&  Nassau. 

Powers'  Hotel 17  and  19  Park  Row. 

Prescott  Housb Fre«*.erick  Diez B'dway,  cor  Spring  St 

fipiNGLER  House E.  E,  Balcom 5  and  7  Union  Squara 

St.  Nicnoi  as  Hotel.  .  .SpoMs  «fe  Hawk Broadway. 

Stevens'  House* Lyman  Fisk 25  Broadway. 

United  Statks ...  Cor.  Fulton  &  Water  Bt& 

Washington  Hotel*..  1  Broadway. 

Western  Hotel D.  D.  Winchester. 9  Cortlandt  St. 


*  Kept  on  the  European  Flan. 


KAILROAD  DEPOTS  IN  THE  CITY  OF  NEW  TOM. 


vi»New  York,  N^w  Haven,  and  Boston  ll.R  i^epot,  Fourth  Ave- 
;        nue,  corner  27th  Street. 

New  York  and  Harlom,  to  Albany,  etc.,  Fourth  Avenue,  cor- 
ner 26th  Street. 

Hudson  River  Raih'oad  Depot,  Wiirren  Street,  and  30th  Street. 

Ev\e  Railroad,  to  Dunkirk,  etc.,  foot  Chambers  Street. 

Atlantic  and  Great  Western,         "  •'  '* 

New  Jersey  R,ailway,  to  Philadelphia,  etc.,  foot  of  Cortlandt 
Street. 

New  Jersey  Central,  to  Easton,  etc.,  foot  of  Cortlandt  Street. 

Pennsylvania  Central  Railroad,  "  "  ** 

]\l<)rris  &  Essex  Railroad,  loot  of  Barclay  Street. 

Fhishing  and  New  York  Raihoad,  James  Slip  and  Hunter's 
Point,  L.  I. 

Long  Island  Railroad,  James  Slip  and  Hunter's  Point,  L.  I. 


bifls^-aiW 


'"■^-yjiwriwtei 


Lines  of  Steamers  connect In^  with  llallroads* 

Fall  River  Line  Steamers,  Pier  No.  3,  North  River. 
Stonington  Line  Steamers,  foot  of  Cortlandt  Street. 
Norwich  Line  Steamers,  Pier  No.  39,  North  River. 
New  Haven  &  Hartford  Line,  Peck  Slip,  East  River. 
Albany  Morning  Line,  foot  of  Desbrosses  Street,  North  River 
Albany  Evening  Line  (People's),  foot  Cortlandt  St.,  "         " 
Troy  Evening  Line,  foot  of  Liberty  Street,  .  ♦'         '♦ 

Newburgh  and  Poughkeepsie  Line,  foot  of  Jay  Street,  North 
River.  .       •;-:'i  ...... 

Camden  &  Amhoy  Line,  foot  of  Barclay  Street,  North  River. 


If     r.  j'v  -I  ,  t 


^  t 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES,  ETC., 


FROM  THE  CITY  OP  NEW  YORK  TO  THE  PRINCIPAL  CITIBa 
IN  THE  MIDDLE,  NORTHERN,  AND  EASTERN  STATES,  AND 
CANADA. 

RovTKS.                                                                            Miles.  H.  H. 

Nkw  Yoek  to  Newark,  N.  J.,  via  New  Jersey  Railroad. . .      9  0  80 

-     .                   Elizabeth  town,                  "                   "...     15  0  46 

New  Brunswick,              "                 "...    81  1  15 

Teenton,                           "                  "...     68  2  80 

Philadelphia,  via  Phil,  and  Trenton  R.  R. .    88  4  8<^ 

Wilmington,  Del.,  cia  Phil,  and  Bait.  R.  R.  116  6  8a 

Havre  de  Grace,  Md.,       "              "        "160  8  00 

Baltimore.            •'           '•               ♦•         "       186  9  80 

Wabiiinqton,  D.  C,  via  Bait,  and  Ohio  R.  R.  225  11  80 

New  Yoek  to  Haekisburg,  Pa.,  via  Philadelphia 194  9  00 

Altoona,  Pa.,  via  Pennsylvania  K.  R 824  15  00 

Pittsburgh,  Pa.,             "              "     441  20  80 

Cleveland,  C,  via  Pittsburgh 580  26  00 

N«w  Yoek  to  Goshen,  via  New  York  and  Erie  R.  R  60  8  16 

PortJervis,           "                    "        •'    89  4  00 

Deposit,                 "                    "        «    178  7  SOT 

Great  Bend,  Pa., "                   "       "    201  8  80 

BiNGHAMTON,          "                           «          "     216  9  00 

Owego,                   "                     "        "    288  9  46 

Elmiba,                 «                    "        «    274  11  00 

Corning.                "                    "        "    293  11  46 

HornellsvlUe,        "                    "        "    833  13  30 

BvFFALO,  via  Buffalo  Division 424  18  00 

Dunkirk,  via  New  York  and  Erie  R.  R 460  19  00 

Cleveland,  O.,  via  Dunkirk 602  25  00 

Cincinnati,  O.,  via  Cleveland 867  84  00 

Chicago,'  111.,  via  Cleveland  and  Toledo 957  87  00 

Nsw  Yoek  to  Poughkeepsie,  via  Hudson  River  R.  K 75  2  46 

Hudson,                         "           "         "      116  4  00 

Albany,                        "           "        ''      144  5  00 

Schenectady,  via  New  York  Central  R.  R. . .  161  6  80 

Utioa,                           "               "           "     ..  239  9  80 

Rome,                           "              «           "     ..  268  10  20 

Syracuse,                       «               •*•           "     ..  292  12  00 

Oswego,                         «*           .   «•           «     ..  827  13  80 

RocHKSTEB,                   •*               •♦           "     ..  873  15  16 

Batavia,                        ««              «•           «     ..  406  16  20 

Buffalo,                      »«               "           "     ..  442  17  80 

Lockport,                     «              "           "     ..  429  17  OO 

..     ;!     -         Niagara  Falls,          «              "           "    ..  447  18  00 

Hamilton.  Ca.,  via  Great  Western  R.  R 490  21  00 

;                Toronto,      "               "            "          "    . . . .  628  28  00 

Dkthoit,  Mich.,            "            "           "    ....  677  28  00 

Chicago,  111.,  via  Michigan  Central  E.  R. . . .  960  87  00 

KB'W  Yoek  to  Albany,  via  Hudson  River  R.  R 144  6  00 

Troy, 150  5  15 

.    u-         Saratoga  Springs,  rtrt  Albany  and  Troy 182  7  30 

>:t«">:r  '  a     Laka  George,  vta  Saratoga  Springs 211  10  oa 

2 


14  TABLE    OP   DISTANCES,    KTO. 

Rotrrcfl.  MIlMt. 

K»w  YoBK  to  Whitehall,  via  Saratoga  A  Whitehall  R.  R.  228 

BuKLiNGTON,  viu  Lake  (jhamplain 800 

Platt»burgh,  "  •'  825 

Rouse's  Point.  "  •'  850 

Montreal,  Ca.,  via  Cham,  and  St.  Law.  R.R.  895 

TSmw  YoBK  to  Chatham  Four  Comers,  N.  Y.  <Sc  Harlem  R.R.  180 

Albany,  '*  "  *        '•      162 

Trot,  '       ••  «  «     168 

N.  Bennington,  Vt,  via  Troy  &  Boston  R.  R.  190 
Rutland,  "  "  •'         "      242 

Burlington  '«  via  Rutland  &  Bur.  R.R.  809 
Rouse's  Point,  via  Vermont  &  Canada  R.  R.  864 
Montreal,  Ca.,  via  Cham.  &  St.  Law.  R.  R.  408 

H«w  YoBK  to  New  Haven,  Conn.,  via  Railroad 76 

Hartford  "  ♦»        112 

Bpringfleld  Mass.,  "        188 

Boston,  via  Western  Railroad 286 

Greenfield,  via  Connecticut  River  R.  R 174 

Bellows  Falls,  Vt.,    "  "         "    222 

Windsor,  "       "  "         •'    248 

White  River  Junction,  via  Verm.  Cent.  R.  R.  262 
Wells'  River,  via  Conn.  «fe  Pass.  River  R.  R.  803 
White  Mountains,  N.  H.,  via  White  Mount- 
ain Railroad 842 

Vsw  TOKK  to  New  London.  Conn.,  via  Steamer 116 

Norwich,  '•  "  127 

Worcester,  Mass,  via  Steamer  and  Railroad  186 
Boston.  "  "  "281 

Nashua  N.  H..  via  Wor.  and  Nashua  R.  R..  282 
Manchester,  N.  H.,  via  Concord  Railroad. . .  249 
Concord,         "  •'  -        . . .  267 

Wier's  Station  N.  H.  (Lake  Winnipisseogee)  800 
Plymouth  N.  H.,  via  Boston  Con..  &  Mont. 

Railroad 818 

Wells'  River,  Vt..  via  Boston  Con.,  &  Mont. 

Railroad 860 

Littleton  N.  H..  via  White  Mountain  R  R  .  880 
White  Mountains  N.  H..  via  Stage 400 

Nbw  Yobs  to  Stonington.  Conn,  via  Steamer  .     125 

Providence,  R.  I.,  via  Steamer  and  Railroad  175 
Boston,  '•  "  218 
Lawrence,  Mass.,  via  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  244 
Dover,  N.  H..  '•  "  '•  286 
Portland.  Me.,  "  "  •'  830  18  00 
fiouth  Paris,  Me.,  via  Grand  Trunk  Railway  878 
Gorham.  N.  H.,  "  '•  "  421 
White  Mountains,  N.  H.,  via  Stage 428       24    00 

N»w  YoBK  to  Newport  R.  I.,  via  Steamer 160  10  0© 

Fall  River,  Mass.          ••        178  11  OO 

New  Bedford,  via  Steamer  and  Railroad ....  204  13  00 

Boston.                       ''                     "        ....  232  12  80 

Balem  Mass.  via  Eastern  Railroad 248 

Newburyport,  *  "         268 

Portsmouth.  N.  H.,                «         288  '  f^* 

Portland,  Me.        '«              "        889  19  00 

'■  Augusta,     "    «n'a  Kennebec  A  PorU.  R.  R.  899 

«!     r^i             Bakoob,       *'    via  Penobscot  &Kemi.R.£.  469  24  00 


H. 

K. 

9 

00 

16 

00 

17 

80 

19 

00 

21 

00 

4 

80 

6 

80 

6 

45 

7 

00 

8 

80 

11 

80 

14 

00 

16 

00 

8 

00 

4 

45 

6 

46 

9 

00 

16 

00 

18 

00 

22 

00 

7 

80 

8 

00 

10 

80 

13 

80 

15 

00 

16 

80 

20 

00 

84 

00 

8 

00 

10 

00 

12 

00 

...  J..- 


NEW  YORK  AND  HARLEM  RAILROAD  ROUTE. 


Depot,  corner  4th  Avenue  and  26rH  Street,  New  York. 


This  Railroad  extends  from  the  station  in  Centre  Street,  and 
runs  through  Broome  Street,  the  Bowery,  and  Fourth  Avenue 
to  the  outer  depot,  corner  Twenty-sixth  Street ;  at  Thirty-second 
Street  it  enters  the  deep  cutting  into  the  solid  rock,  at  Murray 
Hill,  which  is  covered  over  to  Forty-first  Street,  and  then  pro- 
ceeds to  YoRKViLLE,  5  miles,  where  is  a  tuntiei  under  Prospect 
Hill,  which  is  about  600  feet  long,  24  feet  wide,  and  21  high, 
cut  through  solid  rock ;  from  thence  it  runs  through  Harlem, 
7  miles,  crossing  Harlsm  River  over  a  substantial  bridge,  enter- 
ing the  county  of  Westchester  at  Mott  Haven,  where  is  a 
thriving  settlement,  and  several  extensive  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments. 

Morrisania,  ten  miles,  is  a  continuous  settlement,  which 
may  justly  be  considered  as  the  suburbs  of  New  York.  Here  ia 
a  population  of  about  5,000,  most  of  whom  are  connected  wiiii 
business  in  the  city. 

FoRDHAM,  12  miles,  is  another  village  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  line  of  the  railroad.  Here  is  located  St.  John's  College,  a 
Roman  Catholic  institution,  standing  on  a  slight  eminence  called 
Rose  Hill.  Thus  far  there  is  almost  a  continuous  settlement  on 
both  sides  the  railroad,  affording  many  delightful  sites  for 
suburban  residences. 

Williams'  Bridge,  14  miles  from  New  York,  lying  on  the 
west  bank  of  a  small  stream  called  Bronx  River,  is  the  station 
from  whence  diverges  the  A^ew  York  and  JVew  Haven  Rail- 
road, extending  eastwardly  76  miles  to  New  Haven,  Conn.  This 
road  forms  in  part  the  great  railroad  route  from  New  York  to 
Hartford,  Springfield,  Boston,  etc. 

White  Plains,  26  miles  from  the  city,  is  a  handsome  village 
situated  near  the  spot  where  was  fought  a  sanguinary  battle 
during  the  war  of  the  Revolution,  when  this  section  of  country 
was  considered  the  neuhal  ground,  extending  north  from 
King's  Bridge,  over  the  Harlem  River,  to  Verplank's  Point,  near 
Peekskill.  This  quiet  village  is  now  the  county  seat  of  West- 
chester County,  and  contains  besides  the  public  buildings  many 
handsome  edifices,  and  several  flourishing  institutions  of  learn- 


16         NEW    YORK    AKD    HARLEM    RAILROAD    ROUTF. 

ing— this  section  of  country,  extending  northward  through  the 
counties  of  Westchester  uii'l  Putnam,  being  considered  extreruely 
healthy,  abounding  in  pure  watei',  and  blessed  with  an  invigor- 
ating climate 

Crotow  Fa.l.i.8,  61  miles,  is  situated  on  Croton  River,  above 
the  dam  and  reservoir  from  which  the  city  of  Nt;w  York  is 
supplied  with  pure  and  wholesome  water.  Here  is  a  small  vil- 
lage surrounded  by  hills  extending  northward  through  Putnam 
County.  Passengers  bound  for  Lake  Mahopac,  a  few  miles 
westward,  here  leave  the  cars  and  proceed  by  stage. 

Dover  Plains,  80  miles  from  New  York,  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated in  the  east  part  of  Dutchess  County,  about  20  miles  from 
Poughkeepsie.  Tne  surrounding  country  is  hilly,  while  on  the 
east  lies  the  range  of  high  hills  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Hud- 
son from  those  of  the  Housatonic  River. 

Amenia,  88  miles  from  New  York,  is  a  small  village,  sur- 
rounded by  hill^  and  some  good  land: 

Boston  Cornkrs,  103  miles  from  New  York,  now  attached 
to  Columbia  County,  N.  Y.,  formerly  belonged  to  Massachusetts. 
Here  the  Taghkanic  Mountains  on  the  east  rise  to  a  considerable 
height,  being  a  spur  of  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont,  run- 
ning south  through  Dutchess  and  Putnam  counties  to  the  Hud- 
son River,  there  being  termed  the  *•  Highlands,"  or  Matteawan 
Mouncains.  This  range  of  mountains  or  highlands  forms  the 
divMing  ridge  between  the  waters  that  flow  east  into  Long 
Island  Sound  from  those  flowing  west  into  the  Hudson  River ; 
in  an  exttuded  point  of  view  running  from  Westchester  County 
to  the  confines  of  Canada. 

Chatham  Four  Corners,  131  miles  from  New  York,  is  the 
present  terminus  of  ths  New  York  and  Harlem  Railroad.  The 
Lebanon  Springs  Railroad,  when  finished,  wi^l  extend  north  to 
the  Vermont  State  Line.  Through  this  village  runs  the  Albany 
and  West  Stockbridge  Railroad,  forming  a  branch  of  the  West' 
ern  Railroad  of  Massachusetts ;  also,  the  Hudson  and  Boston 
Railroad,  run  by  the  above  company,  thus  forming  direct  and 
speedy  routes  of  travel  from  Albany  and  Hudson  to  Springfield, 
Worcester,  Boston,  etc 

Over  the  Albany  and  West  Stockbridge  Railroad  passengers 
are  now  conveyed  from  Chatham  Four  Corners  to  Albany,  a  tar- 
ther  distance  of  22  miles ;  making  a  total  distance  from  New 
York  to  Albany  by  this  route  of  163  miles  At  East  Albany 
it  connects  with  the  great  lines  of  travel  North  to  Saratoga  and 
Montreal,  and  West  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Fails.  For  Table 
of  Distances,  etc.,  see  pages  13  and  14.  ■. 

■*••''   ■'--■'-     ^  ■         •      .  .     .        ,     .  ...  .....:'  v>^^  ;, 


HUDSON  RIVER  RAILROAD  ROUTE. 


Dep6t,  cor.  Warrrut  St.  and  Collegb  Place,  New  York. 


This  important  Railroad  extends  through  Hudson  Street, 
Canal  Street,  and  West  Street,  to  the  outer  depdt  at  Thirty-first 
Street ;  from  thence  it  runs  along  the  west  shore  of  the  island 
of  New  York  to  Manhattanville,  8  miles.  Here  is  a  village 
surrounded  by  high  and  picturesque  grountls,  where  are  located 
many  handsome  private  edifices. 

FoKT  Washington,  about  9  miles  from  the  city,  stands  on 
elevated  ground,  commanding  a  ne  view  of  the  Hudson  and 
East  rivers,  and  the  surrounding  country.  In  this  vicinity  the 
rock  excavation  is  over  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  on  the 
line  of  the  railroad,  the  cutting  being  between  40  and  60  feet 
deep  for  a  considerable  distance.  Here,  also,  at  Fort  Washing- 
ton Point,  is  erected  a  telegraph  pole,  from  which  extends  sev- 
eral wires  across  the  Hudson  River,  to  the  Palisades  on  the 
Jersey  shore,  above  Fort  Lee. 

Spuytkn  Duyvel  Creek,  13  miles  from  Chambers  Street; 
is  a  continuation  or  branch  of  Harlem  River,  dividing  the  island 
of  New  York  from  Westchester  County.  Here  is  a  draw-bridge 
for  the  convenience  o^i^avigation — this  stream  being  susceptible 
of  improvement  so  as  to  allow  vessels  to  pass  through  into  the 
East  River  or  Long  Island  Sound,  going  through  Hell-  Gate. 

YoNKKRS,  17  miles  from  New  York,  is  delightfully  situated 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson,  here  doubly  interesting  from 
its  romantic  and  picturesque  beauties.  The  bold  and  abrupt 
eminence  called  the  "  Palisades"  stands  on  the  Jersey  side, 
while  the  hilly  and  rolling  country  of  the  opposite  side,  where 
runs  the  line  of  the  railroad,  gives  a  great  charm  to  this  local- 
ity The  village  contains  many  fine  residences,  several  churches, 
hotels,  and  stores.  It  may  be  regarded  as  a  suburb,  as  most  of 
its  inhabitants  are  connected  with  business  in  the  city  of  New 
York. 

Hastings,  20  miles;  Dobbs'  Ferry,  22  miles;  Irvington, 
25  miles,  and  Tarrytown,  27  miles  from  New  York,  may  all 
be  justly  considered  as  suburban  villages,  most  of  their  inhab- 
itants being  closely  connected  in  business  pursuits  with  the  city 
Of  New  York. 


18  HUDSON    RIVER    RAILROAD    ROUTS. 

SiNo  Smo,  82  miles,  is  another  handnomelv  situated  and 
healthy  location,  being  closely  connected  with  the  city  of  New 
York,  both  by  water  and  railroad  communication.  The  Sinf^ 
Sing  Staff  Prison,  locattnl  here,  contains  iibout  1,000  inmatoa. 

Pkkkskim.,  44  miles,  is  another  romantic  and  thriving  vil- 
lage, lying  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Hudson  River  and 
"  Highlandny  The  latter  here  assumes  a  mountain-like  ap- 
pearance, running  northward  for  several  miles,  through  which 
the  river  finds  a  tortuous  passage,  ptissing  West  Point,  52 
miles;  Coi.d  Spring,  52  miles,  to  Fishkill  Landing,  60 
miles  north  of  New  York.  Hore  is  a  steam  ferry,  connecting 
Fishkill  with  Newburgh  on  the  opposite  shore.  On  winding 
through  the  "  Highlands,"  several  tunnels  are  entered  and 
passed  in  quick  succession,  giving  the  traveler  a  vivid  idea  of 
the  uneven  and  rocky  section  through  which  the  track  of  the 
railroad  passes.  At  one  time  water  may  be  seen  on  both  sides 
the  track,  ^hen  the  next  moment  the  fierce  locomotive  plunges 
out  of  sight  under  a  mountain  brow — with  the  majestic  Hudson 
on  the  one  side,  and  the  frowning  hills  or  mountains  on  the  op- 
posite side,  rising  from  1,000  to  1,500  feet  above  the  water's 
edge.  The  longest  tunnel  on  the  route  occurs  a  short  distance 
above  Fishkill. 

The  City  of  Poughkeepsie,  75  miles  above  New  York  and 
70  miles  below  Albany,  situated  on  east  side  of  the  Hudson,  is 
a  large  and  growing  place,  where  the  passenger  trains  of  cars 
usujtlly  stop  for  a  few  minutes,  aflfording  an  opportunity  to 
partake  of  a  hasty  meal. 

Hyde  Park,  81  miles;  Rhinebkck,  91  miles;  Tivoli,  100 
miles;  Oak  Hill,  opposite  Catskill,  110  miles,  are  speedily 
reached  and  passed  by  the  ascending  train  of  cars,  affording  the 
traveler  a  grand  view  of  the  Catskill  MoVntains  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river. 

The  City  of  Hudson,  116  miles  from  New  York  and  29  from 
Albany,  is  an  old  and  interesting  locality,  being  favorably 
situated  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation  on  the  river.  The  Htid- 
son  and  Boston  Railroad  extciuds  eastward  from  this  place 
to  the  New  York  State  Line,  connecting  with  the  Western 
Railroad  of  Massachusetts. 

CoxsACKiE  Station,  123  miles;  Stuyvesant,  126  miles; 
ScHODACK,  183  miles;  Castleton,  136  miles,  and  East  Al- 
bany, 144  miles,  are  the  next  stations  reached.  At  the  latter 
passengers  alight  for  Albany— crossing  the  Hudson  River  in  a 
steam  ferry — while  those  going  to  Tkoy,  6  miles  farther,  or  are 
bound  northward,  remain  in  the  cars,  soon  amving  at  the  lat- 
ter city.  ' 

For  further  information,  see  Albany  and  Tsoy,  described  in 
fthocher  part  of  this  Work.  ■  -r   .<  ^  .-  h,.. 


TOUR 

FROM 

NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC., 

VIA 

HUDSON    RIVER. 


During  the  season  of  navigation  on  the  Hudson,  which  nsu- 
ally  extends  from  about  the  20th  of  March  to  the  fore  part  of 
December,  numerous  steamboats  leave  the  city  of  New  York 
every  morning  and  evening,  for  various  places  on  both  shon^a 
of  the  river.  The  boats  of  the  largest  class,  nowhere  excelled 
for  comfort  and  speed,  run  through  to  Albany  and  Troy,  about 
150  miles,  in  ten  to  twelve  hours  running  time ;  others  touch  at 
the  principal  villages  on  the  way,  to  land  and  receive  passen- 
gers. Usual  fare  through,  $2  00,  including  berths  in  the 
night  boats. 

To  the  traveler  for  pleasure  and  health,  the  day  boats  are 
the  most  desirable,  particularly  in  hot  weather,  when  a  night's 
confinement  in  a  crowded  cabin  is  very  oppressive ;  and  they 
furnish  a  fine  opportunity  to  enjoy  the  varied  and  beautiful 
scenery  of  this  noble  river. 

The  panoramic  view  on  leaving  the  city  is  extensive  and 
grand.  Seaward  it  embraces  parts  of  Long  Island  and  Staten 
Island,  with  the  "  Narrows  ;**  the  spacious  Bay  of  New  York, 
studded  with  Governor's,  Bedlow's,  and  Ellis's  islands :  the 
Jersey  shore  on  the  west,  with  its  settlements  and  cultivated 
fields ;  and  on  the  east  the  city  itself,  with  its  long  ranges  of 
wharves  and  shipping,  its  spires,  and  its  masses  of  architecture ; 
and  as  the  boat  rounds  out  upon  the  bosom  of  th«  mcyestio 


20  NKW   YORK    TO    ALBANY,    TROY,    KTO. 

rirer,  and  springs  forward  on  her  upward  course,  the  Tiew, 
crowded  with  striking  contrasts  and  full  of  life  and  action,  is 
one  of  rare  beauty  and  interest.         * 

Jersey  City,  opposite  the  lower  part  of  New  York,  and  Ho- 
BOKKN,  a  mile  north,  are  seen  to  great  advantage  as  tlie  steam- 
boat leaves  the  wharf.  At  the  former  place  commences  the 
J\ew  Jersey  Railroad  and  the  JVrw  York  and  Erie  Railroad, 
The  latter  place  is  a  delightful  and  favorite  resort  of  the  oiti- 
ions  of  New  York  during  the  warm  summer  season,  when  the 
commodious  steam  ferry-boats  are  crowded  every  afternoon 
with  parties  of  both  sexes,  seeking  refresliment  from  the  heated 
and  thronged  streets  of  the  city,  in  that  charming  retreat. 

Weehawken,  on  the  Jersey  shore,  nortli  of  Hoboken,  and 
8  miles  from  New  York,  a  high,  wooded  cliff,  with  its  bold, 
fttcky  bluffs  partly  vailed  with  trees  and  partly  bare,  and  a 
handsome  villa  on  its  summit,  is  one  of  the  finast  points  in  the 
scene  as  you  move  up  the  river.  At  the  foot  of  this  cliflF,  and 
on  the  margin  of  the  river,  a  small  obelisk  of  white  marble  for 
many  years  marked  the  spot  where  Alexander  Hamilton  fell  in 
liis  fatal  duel  with  Aaron  Burr,  on  the  12th  July,  1804.  The 
monument,  however,  has  long  since  been  removed. 

Bull's  Fkrry,  2  to  3  miles  farther  north,  on  the  same  shore, 
is  a  place  of  considerable  resort,  being  connected  with  the  city 
by  a  steam  ferry. 

Bloomingdale,  on  York  Island,  6  miles  from  the  City  Hall, 
is  a  scattered  settlement,  in  which  the  most  prominent  object  is 
the  Orphan  Jlsylumy  which,  as  seen  from  the  river,  with  its 
green  lawn  extending  to  the  water's  edge,  and  surrounded  by  a 
fine  grove,  presents  a  pleasing  aspect. 

About  3  miles  farther  up  the  island,  or  8  miles  from  the  City 
Hall,  is  the  Lunatic  Asylunit  a  stately  pile  standing  on  elevated 
ground.  '  ^"^  "**- 

The  next  conspicuous  object  on  the  island,  and  visible  from 
the  Hudson,  is  Manhattanville,  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
east  of  which,  toward  the  East  Elver  and  near  Hell-Qate,  is 
the  village  of  Hablkm.  .      .       '  '    :':  f^  WMi? 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  BTO. 

Fort  Wabhinotow,  2  miles  north  of  Manhattanville,  is  ele- 
vated 238  feet  above  the  river,  being  the  highest  point  on  the 
island  of  New  York.  The  old  fort  was  captured  by  the  British 
and  Hessians,  in  the  disastrous  campaign  of  177G,  when  some 
two  or  three  thousand  Americans  were  either  killed  or  taken 
captive,  and  thrown  into  the  prison-ships  at  the  Wallabout  Bay, 
Brooklyn,  where  the  United  States  now  have  an  extensive  Navy 
Yard. 

Fort  Lke,  on  the  Jersey  shore,  10  nicies  from  New  York,  is 
a  place  of  considerable  interest,  and  between  it  and  that  city  a 
steam  ferry-boat  plies  daily.  The  site  of  the  old  fort  is  on  the 
brow  of  the  Palisades,  a  short  distance  from  the  river,  and  ele- 
vated about  300  feet  above  it.  It  was  surrendered  to  the 
British  in  177C,  immediately  after  the  capture  of  Fort  Wash- 
ington. 

The  Palisades,  the  most  striking  and  peculiar  feature  of 
the  scenery  on  either  side  of  the  Hudson,  commence  a  little 
north  of  VVeehawken,  and  on  the  same  shore.  This  descriptive 
designation  has  been  given  to  a  mnjestio  range  of  columnar 
rock,  varying  in  height  from  100  feet  to  350  feet,  and  walling 
in  the  Hudson  as  far  as  Piermont,  a  distance  of  20  miles.  Just 
above  Fort  Lee,  they  rise  almost  perpendicularly  from  the 
water's  odge ;  and  as  the  channel  of  the  river,  for  the  whole  20 
miles,  runs  near  the  west  side  and  along  the  base  of  these  ma- 
jestic clififs,  they  are  seen  to  great  advantage  from  the  deck 
of  the  passing  steamboat. 

Spuyten  Duyvel.  Creek  flows  into  the  Hudson  13  milen 
north  of  the  City  Hall  of  New  York,  and  connects  with  the 
Harlem  River  on  the  east,  thus  separating  the  island  of  New 
York  from  Westchester  County.  It  is  crossed  by  the  track  of 
the  Hudson  River  Railroad,  where  is  a  draw-bridge.  Kings- 
bridge,  on  the  great  post-road  from  New  York  to  Albany, 
crosses  this  creek  about  a  mile  from  its  mouth,  near  which,  on 
the  north  bank,  is  the  site  of  old  Fort  Independence.  Here 
commences  a  succession  of  beautifully  situated  country  resi- 
dences, looking  out  upon  the  riyer,  and  across  it  to  the  Pali* 


22       HEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC. 

sades ;  the  shore  itself  being  marked  by  a  succession  of  narrow 
Talleys  and  ridges  running  back  with  a  gradual  ascent  to  the 
north  and  south  range  of  highland,  which  separates  the  waters 
flowing  into  the  Hudson  from  those  which  pass  off  to  the  East 
River  and  Long  Island  Sound.  As  you  advance  up  through 
Westchester,  this  north  and  south  ridge  becomes  more  elevated 
and  rocky.  It  is,  in  fact,  the  commencement  of  that  extensive 
and  lofty  range  which  soon  enlarges  itself  into  the  "  Highlands," 
or  Fishkill  Mountains,  farther  north  swells  into  the  still  loftier 
Taghkanic  group,  and  finally  attains  its  highest  grandeur  in 
the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont. 

YoNKERs,  17  miles  north  of  New  York,  is  a  thriving  village 
in  Westchester  County,  at  the  mouth  of  Sawmill  River.  It  con- 
tains many  fine  dwelling-houses,  about  12,000  inhabitants,  and 
is  the  summer  resort  of  many  citizens  of  New  York,  being  easily 
reached  by  railroad,  or  the  steamboats  which  ply  daily  between 
that  city,  Sing  Sing,  and  Peekskill.  It  is  surrounded  by  very 
pleasant  scenery,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Hudson  and 
the  Palisades. 

Hastings,  3  miles  north  of  Yonkers,  is  a  convenient  landing- 
place,  at  which  the  smaller  steamboats  touch  to  receive  and  dis- 
charge passengars. 

DoBBs'  Ferry,  22  miles  north  of  New  York,  is  the  name  of 
ft  village,  where  is  a  convenient  steamboat  wharf.  This  was  an 
important  point  in  the  military  operations  of  the  Revolutionary 
war.  A  ferry  communicates  with  the  opposite  shore  at  the  foot 
of  the  Palisades,  a  little  north  of  the  boundary  line  between 
the  States  of  New  York  and  New  Jersey ;  and  from  this  point 
northward  both  sides  of  the  Hudson  are  in  New  York. 

PiERMoNT,  formerly  known  as  Tuppan  Landings  or  the 
*'  Sloat,"  is  on  the  west  shor  j  of  the  Hudson,  24  miles  from  the 
city  of  New  York.  It  has  become  a  place  of  importance  as  the 
terminus  of  a  branch  of  the  New  York  and  Erie  Railroad. 
The  line  of  this  great  work,  from  New  York  to  Dunkirk,  on  the 
shore  of  Lake  Erie,  is  460  miles  long.  At  Piermont  a  substan- 
tial pier,  more  than  a  mile  long,  has  been  coD.structed,  extend- 


NEW   YORK    TO    ALB  ANT,   TROT,   ETC.  23 

Ing  from  the  shore  to  the  channel  of  the  Hudson.  A  steamboat 
plica  daily  between  this  place  and  New  York,  and  connects  with 
the  cars  running  on  the  railroad.  At  this  point,  also,  the  Pali- 
sades term.nate  on  the  north  by  an  abrupt  hill.  This  hill  and 
the  extensive  pier  already  mentioned,  being  the  two  most  dis- 
tinguishing features  of  the  place,  they  have  been  appropriately 
combined  to  form  the  name  of  Piermont. 

Two  or  three  miles  west  from  the  river  is  the  old  village  of 
Tappan,  memorable  as  having  been  for  a  time  the  head-quarters 
of  Washington  and  the  American  army  during  the  Revolution, 
and  the  place  where  Major  Andre  was  executed,  on  the  2d  of 
October,  1780. 

Tappan  Bat — or,  as  it  was  usually  called  in  earlier  times, 
Tappan  Sea — being  an  expansion  of  the  river,  commences  at 
JPiermont  and  extends  northward  to  Croton,  or  Teller's  Point,  a 
distance  of  10  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  about  3  miles. 
On  the  eastern  shore  of  this  bay,  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful 
landscape,  is  the  favorite  country  residence  of  Washington  Ir- 
ving. Nowhere  on  either  shore  of  the  Hudson  is  the  scenery 
more  distinguished  for  its  picturesque  beauty,  having  the  Pali- 
sades in  full  view  at  the  southwest ;  at  the  west  and  north  a 
fine  range  of  hills  stretching  away  to  the  grand  mountain 
masses  of  the  "  Highlands,"  with  the  broad  river  between. 

Irvington,  26  miles,  is  the  name  given  to  a  small  settle- 
ment about  3  miles  north  of  Dobbs*  Ferry. 

The  village  of  Tarrytown  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  river,  overlooking  Tappan  Bay,  27  miles  north  of 
the  city  of  New  York.  It  contains  about  450  dwelling-houses 
and  3,000  inhabitants.  Steamboats  running  to  New  York  touch 
daily  at  this  place.  Immediately  north  is  Beekmantown, 
where  is  the  Irving  Institute^  a  school  of  much  celebrity,  and 
a  venerable  Dutch  Reformed  Church,  erected  about  the  middle 
of  the  seventeenth  century.  Tarrytown  is  famed  as  being  the 
place  where  Major  Andre  was  captured,  while  watering  his 
horse,  on  his  return  from  West  Point,  and  from  a  personal  in- 
terview with  the  traitor,  General  Arnold.    Immediately  north 


*Q  .f 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC.       25 

of  this  vilhge,  also,  is  the  fair.ons  Slerpy  Hollotv,  where  Wo.sb- 
iugtou  Irv.ng  laid  the  sco:io  of  his  entertuiniug  legend  of  that 
n.'ime 

Nyack,  on  the  westeri).  side  of  the  hay  or  river,  is  a  pleasant 
and  thr-ving  place,  bel-wcen  which  and  New  York  :i  .steamboat 
plies  daily.  Here  Tapprui  Bay  spreads  to  its  greatest  width, 
presenting  a  noble  expaav    of  water. 

Rockland  Lake,  2  or  i>  miles  northwest  of  Nyack,  is  a  pic- 
turesque sheet  of  the  purest  water,  from  which  large  quantities 
of  ice  are  annually  sent  to  the  New  York  maiket. 

Sing  Sing,  32  miles  from  New  York,  is  handsomely  situated 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson  River.  It  has  four  Lindings, 
from  which  steamboats  and  vessels  ply  daily  to  and  from  the 
city,  affording  a  pleasant  excursion.  The  main  part  of  the  vil- 
lage is  situated  on  high  and  uneven  ground,  rising  180  feet 
above  tide- water,  and  overlooking  Tappan  and  Haverstraw  bays, 
the  Hudson  and  Croton  rivers,  and  the  surrounding  country, 
including  a  distant  view  of  the  Palisades  and  the  Highlands. 
Sing  Sing  was  incorporated  in  1813,  and  now  contains  about 
3,500  inhabitants.  This  village  derives  its  name  from  the  In- 
dian words  "  Ossin-Si/ig,"  meaning  in  their  language  the 
p/ace  of  stone.  It  is  nuw  celebrated  for  its  marble  quarries, 
whicl;  are  worked  to  a  great  extent  by  the  State  Prison  con- 
victs, who  have  here  orjcted  two  large  prisons,  a  keeper's 
house,  and  several  ranges  of  workshops,  from  materials  found 
on  the  State  farm :  where  is  also  located  a  silver  mine,  which 
was  worked  to  some  extent  previous  to  the  Revolution,  and  a 
copper  mine  which  has  been  more  recently  worked.  The  mar- 
ble found  in  this  vicinity  is  of  a  medium  quality,  and  almost 
inexhaustible ;  large  quantities  are  annually  quarried  and  sent 
to  the  city  of  New  York  and  other  places.  Here  is  to  be  seen  a 
beautiful  viaduct,  over  which  is  conveyed  the  acqueduct  for 
supplying  the  city  of  New  York  with  pure  and  wholesome 
water. 

The  Mount  Pleasant  State  Prison  is  situated  about  half 
%  x&ile  south  of  the  village  of  Sing  Sing.    The  prison  grounds 


26       NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  KTC. 

consist  of  130  acres  of  land,  lying  between  the  villages  of  Sing 
Sing  and  Sparta,  being  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  Highland 
turnpike,  and  on  the  vvest  by  the  Hudson  River,  which  here 
affords  a  d^th  of  twelve  feet  of  water  at  the  landing.  The 
main  prison  building  is  484  feet  in  length,  north  and  south,  and 
44  feet  in  width,  fronting  westerly  on  the  Hudson,  being  five 
Btories  in  height,  and  containing  1 ,000  cells ;  in  front  and  rear 
are  located  workshops  of  different  kinds,  which,  together  with 
the  keeper's  house,  are  all  built  of  rough  dress  marble.  At- 
tached to  the  prison  building,  on  the  south,  is  a  chapel,  hospi- 
tal, kitchen,  storehouses,  etc.  A  new  prison  for  female  convicts 
stands  on  elevated  ground,  and  is  built  of  marble  in  the  lonio 
order. 

CROTor  or  Teller's  Point,  about  a  mile  north  of  Sing 
Sing,  separates  Tappan  from  Haverstraw  Bay.  It  projects 
southerly  into  the  river  more  than  a  mile,  immediately  above 
the  confluence  of  the  Croton  River  with  the  TTudson.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river  rises  Verdreitje^s  Houk,  a  bold  head- 
land 668  feet  high,  forming  a  beautiful  feature  in  the  land- 
scape. 

Haverstraw  Bay  is  another  expansion  of  the  Hudson 
Kiver,  2  to  3  miles  wide  and  6  miles  long,  terminating  on  the 
north  at  Verplank's  and  Stony  Points. 

Haverstraw,  or  Warren,  lies  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay 
or  river,  35  miles  from  New  York,  to  which  city  a  steamboat 
runs  daily. 

Grassy  Point,  2  miles  above,  on  the  same  side  of  the  river, 
is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing. 

Verplank's  Point,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  40  miles 
north  of  the  city  of  New  York,  is  an  excellent  landing-place, 
and  memorable  from  its  connection,  in  the  Revolutionary  war, 
with  Stony  Point,  on  the  opposite  side.  On  the  latter  point  is 
now  a  light-house,  erected  on  the  site  of  the  old  fortification, 
which  completely  commanded  the  channel  of  the  river.  These 
points,  where  the  river  contracts  to  about  half  a  mile  in  width, 
l?ere  the  first  important  positions  north  of  the  city  of  New 

a 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC.        27 

York  at  which  the  American  forces  attampted  to  defend  the 
passage  of  the  Hudson  against  the  British,  in  the  struggle  for 
independence.     {See  Engraving.) 

Caldwell's  Landing,  on  the  west  side  of  the  riyer,  44 
miles  from  New  York  and  101  miles  from  Albany,  is  the  first 
place  at  which  steam  passage-boats  of  the  large  class  touch  on 
their  upward  trip,  to  land  and  receive  passengers.  This  land- 
ing is  situated  at  the  south  entrance  of  the  ''  Highlands,"  and 
is  connected  by  a  steam  ferry  with 

The  village  of  Peekskill,  43  miles  from  New  York,  a  large 
and  thriving  village,  from  which  two  or  three  steamboats  run 
directly  to  the  city  of  New  York,  carrying  large  quantities  of 
produce,  manufactured  articles,  and  passengers.  It  was  incor- 
porated in  1827,  and  now  contains  4,500  inhabitants,  8  churches, 
6  public  houses,  30  stores,  and  about  600  dwellings,  besides 
many  large  manufacturing  establishments. 

On  Oak  Hilly  where  is  now  situated  the  Peekskill  Academy, 
is  a  venerable  oak  tree,  on  which  was  hung,  during  the  Revo- 
lutionary war,  two  noted  spies,  Strang  and  Palmer.  Peekskili 
was  then  the  head- quarters  of  the  American  army  under  Gene- 
ral Putnam,  who  here  dated  his  laconic  reply  to  Sir  Henry 
Clinton,  commander  of  the  British  forces  in  the  city  of  New 
York,  who  sent  up  a  flag  of  truce,  demanding  the  release  of  Ed- 
mund Palmer,  a  lieutenant  of  a  Tory  regiment,  who  had  been 
detected  in  the  American  camp.  The  following  was  the  reply 
sent  back  by  Putnam  : 

"  Head-Quarters,  7th  Aug.,  17T7. 
•  Edmund  Palmer,  an  officer  in  the  enemy's  service,  was  taken  as  a  spy, 
lurking  within  the  American  lines ;  he  has  been  tried  as  a  spy  condemned 
as  a  spy,  and  shall  be  executed  as  a  spy,  and  the  flag  is  ordered  tb  depart 
immediately.  Israel  Putnam. 

'•  P.  8.  He  has  been  accordingly  executed." 

During  summer,  a  stage  leaves  Peekskill  every  day  for  Ma- 
hopac  Lake,  and  in  the  hottest  of  the  season,  when  the  lake  is 
most  visited,  twice  a  day,  leaving  Peekskill  morning  and 
evening..  :.,,     ;,  -•.-,  .y  ,.         '..  ^-,. . 


28       NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC. 

Mahopac  Lake  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  •water  in  the  town  of 
Carmel,  Putnam  County,  aud  is  one  of  the  cliief  sources  ol  the 
Croton  River.  It  is  o.bout  one  mile  in  diaii.jL:M*,  and  emboaoma 
two  or  three  small  islands.  The  waters  abound  with  varicjus 
kinds  of  fish  of  a  fine  flavor.  It  is  a  place  of  *  considerable  re- 
sort, with  good  accommodations  for  visitors.  Here  is  »  good 
public  house  for  the  accommodation  of  strangers. 

Old  Fort  Indp:pkndi;nck  lies  opposite  Caldwell's  Landing, 
on  the  northeast,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Peekskill.  The  situa- 
tion is  delightful,  facing  down  the  river,  with  an  unobstructed 
view  for  many  miles,  while  immediately  in  the  rear  rise  the 
*♦  Highlands"  in  majestic  grandeur. 

On  leaving  Caldwell's  Landing,  the  river  takes  a  sudden  turn 
to  the  west  for  about  a  mile,  this  reach  having  the  local  desig- 
nation of  the  *'  Horse  Race"  and  then  resumes  its  northern 
course,  passing  between  the  bold,  wooded,  and  overshadowing 
hills  known  as  the  "  Highlands,''  or  "  Matteawan  Mountains." 
This  latter  name,  meaning  "  the  country  for  good  fur,"  was 
given  by  the  aborigines,  and  is  a  fine,  distinctive,  and  appro- 
priate name  for  the  whole  group. 

The  "  Highlands,"  the  grandest,  and,  next  to  the  Palisades, 
the  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  scenery  of  the  Hudson,  are 
about  16  miles  in  width,  and  extend  in  a  southwest  and  north- 
east direction  for  some  20  or  30  miles,  covering  a  part  of  the 
counties  of  Rockland  and  Orange  on  the  west  side  of  the  river, 
and  Putnam  and  Dutchess  on  the  east.  Several  of  their  sum- 
mits reach  an  elevation  of  1,000  to  1,685  feet.  This  may  be 
considered  classic  groimd,  as  many  of  the  points  or  eminences 
in  view  from  the  river  are  celebrated  in  history  for  being  the 
scene  of  stirring  events  during  the  struggle  for  American  Inde- 
pendence, 1776  to  1783. 

The  sites  of  old  Fort  Clinton  and  Montgomery^  of  Revolu- 
tionary memory,  are  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  opposite  the 
lower  Anthony's  JVose^  6  miles  below  West  Point.  These  forts, 
deemed  almost  impregnable,  were  erected  at  this  point  for  the 
defense  of  the  river,  which  was  also  obstructed  by  chevaux-de- 


KKW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  KTO. 

frise,  boom,  and  chains.  On  the  6th  of  October,  1777,  they 
were  attacked  by  a  superior  British  force  under  Sir  Henry 
Clinton,  and  captured  after  a  sharp  resistance,  the  garrison  of 
600  men  being  overpowered  by  a  disciplined  army  of  3,000 
strong.  The  works  were^resoiutely  defended  until  dark,  when 
the  enemy  effected  an  entrance  at  several  places,  there  not 
being  a  sufficient  number  of  soldiers  in  the  fort  to  man  the 
lines. 

West  Point  is  romantically  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Hudson  River,  52  miles  from  New  York  and  93  miles  from  Al- 
bany. It  is  the  seat  of  the  United  States  Military  Academy, 
established  by  an  act  of  Congress  in  March,  1802,  and  the  land 
ceded  to  the  United  States  Government  by  the  State  of  New 
York,  1826.  Here  are  now  erected  two  stone  barracks,  one  of 
three  and  the  other  four  stories  in  height,  occupied  by  250 
cadets,  which  is  the  number  authorized  by  law ;  an  academic 
hall,  a  large  three-story  stone  building,  275  feet  in  length,  by 
76  feet  in  width,  used  for  military  exercises  in  winter,  and  as  a 
depository  of  the  chemical  apparatus,  models  of  fortification, 
artillery,  architecture,  and  machines,  and  as  recitation  and 
drawing  rooms  ;  a  new  and  beautiful  o- story  stone  building, 
to  be  used  for  the  library  and  philosophical  apparatus,  con- 
structed in  the  Elizabethan  style  of  architecture,  and  is  150  feet 
in  length  by  60  feet  in  width ;  the  north  front-  has  three  towers 
suited  for  the  astronomical  apparatus ;  the  center  tower  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  dome  of  28  feet  10  inches  in  diameter,  the  whole 
of  which  revolves  on  its  vertical  axis,  adapting  it  to  the  use  of  a 
large  equatorial  telescope ;  a  chapel,  an  hospital,  a  mess  hall, 
two  cavalry  stables:'  several  workshops  and  store-rooms,  and 
seventeen  separate  dweilmgs  occupied  by  the  officers  of  the  insti- 
tution. In  addition  to  the  above,  here  are  located  a  magazine, 
a  laboratory,  soldiers'  barracks,  a  store,  and  about  25  dwelling- 
houses,  occupied  by  families  connected  with  the  military  school 
— in  all  containing  a  population  of  about  1,000  souls.  Here, 
also,  is  a  well-kept  hotel,  calculated  to  accommodate  about  150 
Tisitors. 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC.   . 

No  place  in  the  Union,  probably,  exceeds  West  Point  in 
beauty  of  location  and  the  stirring  incidents  connected  with  its 
early  history,  being  "  hallowed  by  the  footsteps  of  Washington 
and  Kosciusko,"  during  the  Revolutionary  struggle,  the  interest 
in  which  is  continued  to  the  present  time  by  its  being  the  resi- 
dence and  school  of  the  future  defenders  of  the  Union.  In  1777, 
immediately  after  the  capture  of  Forts  Clinton  and  Montgom- 
ery by  the  British  army,  West  Point  was  first  occupied  by  the 
American  army,  and  fortified  at  the  instance  of  Gov.  George 
Clinton,  of  Revolutionary  memory.  At  the  present  time  are  to 
be  seen  the  remains  of  Forts  Putnam  and  Arnold  (after  the 
treason  of  the  latter,  called  Fort  Clinton),  which  is  situated  on 
the  extreme  eastern  point  of  this  military  position,  160  feet 
above  tide- water,  while  Fort  Putnam  is  situated  on  Mount  Inde- 
pendence, 1,000  yards  southwest,  elevated  about  500  feet  above 
the  river ;  there  are  also  numerous  other  redoubts  and  batteries 
crowning  the  various  eminences  in  the  vicinity,  built  under  the 
direction  of  the  celebrated  Kosciusko  as  engineer.  In  August, 
1780,  General  Arnold  was  assigned  to  the  command  of  this  im- 
portant military  station,  extending  from  Fishkill  to  Verplank's 
Point.  On  the  25th  of  September  he  precipitately  made  his 
escape  from  his  head-quarters,  the  Robinson  House,  situated 
two  miles  below  West  Point,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
his  treason  having  been  discovered  by  the  fortunate  capture  of 
Major  Andre.  From  this  period  to  the  close  of  the  Revolution- 
ary war  in  1783,  West  Point  was  garrisoned  by  a  strong  division 
of  the  American  army ;  after  which  the  garrison  was  reduced, 
and  this  location  made  a  depot  for  the  Revolutionary  armament 
and  other  military  stores.  In  1794,  at  the  recommendation  of 
General  Washington,  a  military  school  was  commenced  in  a 
building  which  was  burned  down  two  years  thereafter,  and  the 
school  suspended  until  1802.  '  ■ 

There  are  now  connected  with  the  West  Point  Academy  thirty- 
four  ofl&cers  and  professors,  a  company  of  artillery,  and  a  de- 
tachment of  dragoons,  besides  the  cadets,  who  gi  nerally  re- 
xoaiu  here  for  a  period  of  four  years,  in  which  time  they  are 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC.       81 

qualified  to  become  subaltern  officers  of  the  several  corpa  of  the 
army. 

No  stranger  should  leave  this  place  without  visiting  the  pub- 
lic buildings,  Kosciusko's  Monument,  and  a  wild  and  romantic 
retreat  near  the  water's  edge  called  "  Kosciusko's  Garden," 
the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Putnam,  which  commands  a  view  of  West 
Point,  the  Hudson  River,  and  the  surrounding  mountain 
scenery.  The  Cemetery,  about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  hotel, 
is  also  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

On  the  south,  lowaia  Buttermilk  Falls,  about  a  mile  distant, 
there  is  a  pleasant  road  running  near  the  river,  and  most  of 
the  way  through  a  beautiful  grove  of  trees.  In  this  vicinity, 
and  most  agreeably  located,  is  situated  Cozzens'  Hotel,  under 
the  superintendence  of  a  favorite  publican. 

If  the  visitor  tarries  through  the  day  at  this  attractive  place, 
any  time  during  the  summer  months,  when  the  hotels  are  usu- 
ally thronged  with  fashionable  people  from  every  section  of  the 
Union,  he  will  have  an  opportunity  to  view  West  Point  in  all 
its  loveliness 

The  village  of  Cold  Spring,  64  miles  from  New  York,  a  mile 
or  more  above  West  Point,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  a 
thriving  manufacturing  village.  Here  are  situated  the  exten- 
sive iron  works  commonly  known  as  the  *'  West  Point  Foundry," 
and  supposed  to  be  on  as  broad  a  scale  as  any  in  the  Union, 
and  a  machine  shop,  giving  constant  employment  to  about  500 
workmen.  The  largest  kind  of  machinery,  for  steamboat  and 
other  purposes,  and  warlike  implements,  are  here  constructed. 
The  ore  on  which  the  works  depend  is  found  in  the  immediate 
vicinity ;  and  there  is  also  a  quarry  of  granite  of  a  very  superior 
quality,  easy  of  access,  and  inexhaustible. 

Be.^con  Hili.  and  Breakneck,  both  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  are  situated  immediately  above  Cold  Spring.  The  for- 
mer, sometimes  called  the  "  Grand  Sachem,"  is  the  highest 
peak  of  the  Highlands,  being  elevated  1,686  feet  above  the 
river.  The  latter  presents  the  rocky  projection  called  the 
**  Upper  Anthony's  JVbse.**  - 


32  WBW    YORK    TO    ALBANY,    TROY,   ITO. 

Crow'b  Nest  and  Butter  Hill  are  situated  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river.  They  rise  ^bruptly  from  the  water's  edge. 
The  latter,  which  is  the  more  northerly  peak,  lifts  its  summit 
1,620  feet  above  tlie  Hudson,  and  the  other  is  nearly  as  high. 

Pollopkl'b  Inland  is  a  mass  of  rock  lying  in  the  Hudson 
River,  neai  its  east  shore,  at  the  northern  entrance  into  th« 
Highlands,  G  miles  above  West  Point.  Here  the  river  begins  to 
widen  and  expand  to  the  width  of  more  than  a  mile  for  some  5  or 
6  miles,  for  which  distance  it  is  sometimes  called  JVewburgh 
Bay. 

Cornwall,  Canterbury,  and  New  Windsor  are  small 
Tillages  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  immediately 
above  the  Highlands,  the  last-named  village  being  distinguished 
as  the  birth-place  of  De  Witt  Clinton. 

New  burgh,  61  miles  north  of  New  York  and  84  south  of 
Albany,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  rising  ground,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river.  It  was  incorporated  in  1800,  and  now  con- 
tains about  12000  inhabitants,  1,500  dwelling-houses,  a  court- 
house, and  jail,  this  being  a  half-shire  of  Orange  County ;  a 
Theological  Seminary  under  the  direction  of  the  Associate  Re- 
formed Presbyterian  denomii  'on ;  an  incorporated  academy ; 
a  high  school,  two  female  seminaries,  and  a  number  of  select 
schools,  all  in  a  flourishing  condition ;  two  large  public  libra- 
ries ;  eleven  churches  of  different  denominations ;  three  bank- 
ing-houses ;  fourteen  hotels  and  taverns ;  150  stores  of  different 
kinds;  nine  storehouses;  five  freighting  establishments;  four 
steamboats  and  two  barges,  running  to  and  from  the  city  of 
New  York,  besides  a  number  of  sloops  trading  to  different 
places  on  the  Hudson  River,  and  schooners  and  other  craft 
running  to  Southern  and  Eastern  ports,  altogether  transport- 
ing an  immense  amount  of  lumber,  coal,  plaster,  and  agricul- 
tural and  manufactured  products ;  two  good  steamboats,  also, 
are  attached  to  the  ferry  between  this  place  and  Fishkill,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  which  is  here  about  one  mile  in 
width.  The  location  of  Newburgh,  in  addition  to  its  romantic 
beauty  and  healthiness,  is  peculiarly  favorable  as  a  place  of 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  KTO.        88 

bnniDeAS,  boinj^f  surrounded  by  a  rich  grazing  and  agricultural 
reftion,  celebrated  for  butter  and  livestock:.  The  j\\wbur<fh 
Branch  of  the  New  V'ork  and  Ijrie  Krjlroad  extendi)  from  this 
place  to  Chester,  20  milc«. 

Newburgh  was  for  a  period  the  head-quarters  of  Gen.  Wash- 
ington, and  at  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  war  the  army 
wii«  here  disbanded,  June  23, 1783.  The  celebrated  JYeufburgh 
Letters,  addressed  to  the  oflBcers  and  men  of  the  army,  were 
here  dated,  supposed  to  have  been  written  by  the  late  General 
John  Armstrong. 

It  is  proposed  to  erect  a  suitable  column  to  the  memory  of 
Washington,  in  front  of  the  old  stone  ixouse,  in  the  south  part 
of  this  village,  where  his  family  resided ;  it  is  to  be  from  80  to 
100  feet  high,  constructed  of  white  marble  or  granite,  at  an 
estimated  cost  of  $50,000.  It  will  be  in  plain  sight  from  the 
water,  commanding  one  of  the  finest  prospects  on  the  Hudson. 

FisHKiLL  Landing,  60  miles  from  New  York  by  railroad 
route,  lies  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  directly  opposite  New- 
burgh,  with  which  it  is  conn<}cted  by  a  steam  ferry,  is  a  thriv- 
ing village,  containing  about  1,.500  inhabitants,  and  surround- 
ed by  delightful  country  residences. 

Matteawan,  an  extensive  and  celebrated  manufacturing 
village,  is  situated  on  the  Fishkill,  a  mile  and  a  half  east  of 
Fishkill  Landing. 

GliEnham,  3  miles  from  the  landing,  is  also  a  celebrated 
manufacturing  village,  celebrated  for  its  superior  woolen 
cloths. 

The  village  of  Fishkill  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  plain,  5 
miles  east  of  Fishkill  Landing,  and  65  miles  north  of  the  city  of 
New  York,  on  the  great  post-road  to  Albany.  This  road,  from 
Peekskill  to  Fishkill,  a.  distance  of  19  miles,  traverses  the  High- 
lands, and  is  remarkable  for  its  formidable  hills  and  the  wild 
scenery  of  this  mountain  route.  As  you  approach  Fishkill 
from  the  south,  the  character  of  the  scenery  suddenly  changes 
to  that  of  a  fertile  and  cultivated  farming  district. 

During  the  Hevolutionary  war,  this  village  was  for  a  period 


84       HIW  TORK  TO  ALBANT,  TROT,  KTO. 

■ 

the  head-quarters  of  the  American  array.  The  church  is  still 
Htanding  hure  in  which  Enoch  CroHby,  the  spy  of  Revolutionary 
memory,  was  confined  for  a  time,  his  escape  being  admirably 
described  in  Cooper's  romance  of  the  **  Spy,"  under  the  assumed 
name  of  Harvey  Birch. 

New  Hamburgh,  G  miles  north  of  Newburgh,  is  a  steamboat 
landing  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  where  Wappingor'u  Crcek» 
an  important  mill-stream,  empties  into  the  Hudson. 

Hampton  is  another  landing  nearly  opposite,  being  connect- 
ed with  Mew  Hamburgh  by  a  ferry.  One  or  two  miles  north  in 
the  village  of  Marlborough. 

Barnegat,  a  few  miles  above,  on  the  east  side  of  the  riyer» 
is  celebrated  for  the  manufacture  of  large  quantities  of  lime. 

Milton,  9  miles  above  Newburgh,  and  4  miles  below  Pough- 
kecpsie,  is  a  convenient  steamboat  binding ;  the  village  stands 
about  half  a  mile  back  from  the  river. 

The  City  of  Pouuhkeephie  is  hBf^dsomely  situated  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Hudson,  abr  ^.n  tstant  between  the  cities 
of  New  York  and  Albany,  '•  ivj  70  iles  from  the  former,  and 
71  from  the  latter  by  water.  .»»  was  incorporated  in  1801  as  a 
village,  and  chartered  as  a  city  in  1854 ;  i^  now  contains  about 
15,000  inhabitants ;  1,600  dwelling-houses,  many  of  them  tasty 
edifices;  a  court-house>  and  jaxi  and  county  poor-house;  a 
splendid  collegiate  building ;  the  Dutchess  Academy  ;  two  fe* 
male  seminaries,  besides  several  select  schools ;  a  lyceum  and 
reading-room;  two  public  markets;  one  Presbyterian,  one 
Congregational,  two  Episcopal,  one  Baptist,  two  Methodist,  one 
Dutch  Reformed,  one  Universalist,  one  Roman  Catholic,  and 
one  African  Church,  and  two  Friends'  meeting-houses ;  three 
banking-houses,  and  a  savings'  institution.  Poughkeepsie  con* 
tains  several  well-kept  hotels  and  taverns ;  30  dry  good  stores* 
60  groceries,  besides  a  large  number  of  other  different  kinds  of 
stores  and  shops ;  also  two  breweries,  one  of  which  is  very  ex- 
tensive, perhaps  the  largest  in  the  State,  being  capable  of 
making  80,000  barrels  of  beer  annually,  and  an  extensive  pin 
manufactory.    Here  are  owned  three  steamboats,  three  freight 


KEW    YORK    TO    ALBANY,  TROY,  ITO.  35 

barges,  and  eight  sloops,  engaged  in  transporting  produce  and 
merobandizo  to  and  from  the  New  York  market,  and  other 
places  on  the  river.  No  place  on  the  Hudson  exceeds  this 
city  for  beauty  of  location;  it  is  surrounded  by  one  of  the 
richest  agricultural  districts  in  the  Union,  and  may  justly  be 
ranked  as  the  queen  of  cities  in  the  Empire  State.  Population 
in  1856,  12,763. 

The  Poughkeepsie  Collegiate  School,  situated  on  Coliege 
Hillf  about  half  a  mile  northeast  of  the  compact  part  of  the 
Tillage,  is  unrivaled  in  its  location,  commanding  an  extensive 
prospect  of  the  river  and  surrounding  country,  which  can  not 
foil  to  excite  the  admiration  of  every  lover  of  picturesque 
scenery;  in  addition  to  the  collegiate  building,  which  is  * 
splendid  edifice,  here  has  been  erected  an  extensive  gymnasium. 
This  is  a  well-established  and  flourishing  institution,  conducted 
on  phiiodophical  principles. 

Ponghkeepsie  is  a  corruption  of  the  Indian  word  Apokeep- 
siriff^  signifying  safe  harbor.  It  was  early  settled,  and  in 
1788  the  State  convention  met  here  to  ratify  the  federal  Con- 
stitution of  the  United  States ;  previous  to  that  date  the  State 
legislature  frequently  convened  in  this  city,  which  has  long 
been  considered  a  favorite  place  of  residence. 

The  Hudson  River  Railroad  aflFords  a  speedy  communication 
with  the  city  of  New  York  on  the  south,  and  Albany  on  the 
north.     Cars  arrive  and  depart  almost  hourly. 

The  Landing  opposite  Poughkeepsie  is  in  the  town  of  New 
PA1.TZ,  by  which  name  it  is  called.  A  ferry  here  crosses  the 
Hudson ;  a  short  distance  from  the  river  is  a  scattered  settle* 
ment.  Three  or  four  miles  above  Poughkeepsie,  is  a  turn  in 
,the  river  called  Crum^  Elbow. 

Hyde  Park,  80  miles  from  New  Y'ork  and  65  from  Albany, 
is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Hudson.  The 
principal  settlement  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  landing.  It 
contains  three  churohes,  two  public  houses,  several  stores  and 
shops,  about  140  dwelling-houses,  and  900  inhabitants.  No 
«ectioa  of  the  country  between  New  York  and  Albany  excelf 


M  K£W    YORK    TO    ALBANY,  TROY,  KTO. 

Ais  pare  of  Dutchess  County  for  the  beauty  of  its  country  reei- 
dences.  • 

At  Staatsdurgh,  5  miles  north  of  the  village  of  Hyde  Park, 
•re  situated  several  fine  country  residences. 

Esopus  Meadows,  as  they  are  called,  6  or  7  miles  above 
Hyde  Park,  are  extensive  marshes,  covered  with  water  during 
high  tide ;  they  lie  opposite  the  town  of  Esopus,  on  the  west  side 
oi  the  river.  Pelham  is  a  small  landing  on  the  same  side,  a 
Kttle  south  of  the  meadows. 

RoNDouT,  89  miles  north  of  the  city  of  New  York,  is  situated 
•t  the  mouth  of  a  large  stream  of  the  same  name,  where  there 
i»  a  light-house  built  by  the  United  States  government.  This  is 
aa  important  place  of  considerable  trade,  containing  an  active 
population  of  about  8,000  inhabitants;  many  of  whom  are  en- 
gaged in  navigation,  and  others  are  furnished  employment  by 
the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal,  which  terminates  at  Eddy 
viLLE,  2  miles  above  Rondout.  The  canal  is  108  miles  in 
length,  extending  in  connection  with  a  railroad  of  16  miles,  to 
the  coal  mines  of  Pennsylvania.  From  the  mouth  of  Kondout 
Creek  a  number  of  steamboats,  freight  barges,  and  sloops  are 
regularly  employed  in  carrying  an  immense  quantity  of  Lack- 
awaxen  coal,  lumber,  lime,  and  produce  of  different  kinds. 
Stages  run  from  this  place  to  the  village  of  Kingston,  and  to  the 
Landing  opposite  Rhinebeck,  where  the  line  boats  land  and 
receive  passengers  several  times  daily. 

Kingston  Landing  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hud- 
son River,  90  miles  north  of  the  city  of  New  York ;  this  Land- 
ing was  formerly  called  Columbus  Point.  A  steam  ferry-boat 
here  plies  across  the  river. 

The  village  of  Kingston  is  handsomely  situated  on  a  plain, 
through  which  flows  the  Esopus  Creek,  3  miles  west  of  the 
lauding  on  the  river.  It  was  incorporated  in  1805,  and  now 
•ontains  about  7,000  inhabitants,  800  dwelling-houses,  a  court- 
house  and  jail ;  six  churches ;  two  banking-houses,  an  incorpo- 
i*ated  academy  in  a  flourishing  condition,  and  a  female  semin- 
mej  \  also  several  well-kept  public  houses.     Stages  leave  tfaid 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC.       87'. 

place  tbree  times  a  week  for  Dehli,  Delaware  County ;  a  tri- 
weekly line  also  leaves  for  Ellenville,  and  accommodation  stagee 
arc  in  constant  attendance,  and  run  to  the  several  steamboats 
that  land  and  receive  passengers  at  Rondout  and  Kingston 
Landing.  Hingston,  anciently  called  Esopusy  was  e-.-ly  set- 
tled by  the  Dutch,  many  of  whose  descendants  now  reside  in 
this  vicinity. 

lu  April,  1777,  the  first  convention  of  the  Representatives  of 
the  State  of  New  York  met  in  the  village  of  Kingston,  and 
formed  the  Old  Constitution  of  the  State;  and  on  the  16th  day 
of  October  following  it  was  taken  and  burnt  by  the  British 
army,  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Vaughan,  while  marching  to 
the  relief  of  Gen.  Burgoyne,  who  was  obliged  to  surrender  to 
the  American  army  on  the  following  day  at  Schuylerville.  Im- 
mediately after  destroying  the  village,  the  British  troops  pre- 
cipitately retreated  to  their  vessels  lying  in  the  Hudson  River, 
and  returned  to  the  city  of  New  York.  Some  of  the  ruins  of 
the  stone  buildings  were  standing  as  late  as  1836,  when  the 
last  of  the  walls  were  taken  down ,  and  the  Kingston  banking- 
house  erected  on  the  same  spot. 

Rhinebfck  Landing,  90  miles  from  New  York  and  55  from 
Albany,  is  situated  on  the  east  side  cf  the  river.  In  this 
vicinity  are  located  a  number  of  beautiful  country  residencea 
overlooking  the  Hudson. 

The  village  of  Rhinebeck  is  handsomely  situated  on  a 
plain,  2  miles  east  of  the  landing.  It  is  incorporated,  and  now 
contains  about  1,600  inhabitants.  This  vicinity  was  early 
settled  by  Dutch  families,  many  of  whose  descendants  stLM  re- 
tain the  habits  and  language  of  their  forefathers,  and  are  a 
frugal  and  prosperous  class  of  citizens. 

Barrytown,  or  Eedhook  Lower  Landing.,  also  on  the  east 
Bide  of  the  Hudson,  is  97  miles  from  New  York,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  several  delightful  country  residences.  The  CatS' 
kill  Mountains.,  in  the  west,  at  a  distance  of  some  12  or  15 
miles,  may  now  be  seen  from  the  river  to  great  advantage;  <iad 
ikk^JJoMkill  Mountain  House,  elevated  nearly  3,000  feet  abova 

4 


38       WaW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC. 

the  Hudson,  is  distinctly  yisible  in  clear  weather.  It  stands 
near  the  precipitous  front  of  a  rocky  plateau,  of  a  few  acres  in 
extent,  called  Pine  Orchard^  from  the  scattered  pines  which 
formerly  grew  out  from  the  fissures  of  the  rock.  It  commands 
a  vast  and  noble  prospect,  and  is  a  most  refreAing  retreat 
from  the  heats  of  summer. 

TivoLi,  or  Upper  Redhook  Landing,  100  miles  from  New 
York  and  45  miles  from  Albany,  is  a  regular  steamboat  land- 
ing. In  this  vicinity  are  also  a  great  number  of  beautiful 
country  residences.  In  the  Hudson,  near  Tivoli,  are  annually 
taken,  during  the  months  of  May  and  June,  large  quantities 
of  shad  and  herring.  A  steam  ferry-boat  here  plies  across 
the  river,  landing  on  the  west  side  near  the  iron-works  at 
Saugerties. 

Saugerties  is  a  large  manufacturing  village  by  the  char- 
tered name  of  Ulster ,  situated  on  the  Esopus  Creek,  near  Its 
entrance  into  the  Hudson,  where  is  a  water-fall  affording  an 
immense  hydraulic  power,  much  of  which  is  advantageously 
used  in  driving  different  kinds  of  machinery.  The  village  con- 
tains about  4,500  inhabitants,  600  dwelling-houses,  6  churches, 
and  3  or  4  public  houses.  A  steamboat  and  several  sloops  run 
from  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  although  the  usual  steamboat 
landing  for  the  passage-boats  is  at  *-' 

Bkistoi.,  or  Maldkn,  2  miles  above  Redhook  and  \\  miles 
from  Saugerties.  A  stage  runs  to  and  from  the  landing  to  the 
village,  on  the  arrival  and  departure  of  the  steam  passage- 
boats. 

East  and  Webt  Camp,  a  few  miles  above  Bristol,  are  old 
Dutch  settlements  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  ' 

The  village  of  Catskill,  111  miles  from  New  York  and  34 
miles  from  Albany,  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  Catskill  Creek, 
near  its  junction  with  the  Hudson ;  tlie  principal  street  being 
about  half  a  mile  back  from  the  steamboat  landing.  It  was  in- 
corporated in  1806,  and  now  contains  about  3,800  -inhabitants, 
500  dwelling-houses,  a  court-house  and  jail,  2  banking-houses, 
6  churches,  and  several  public  houses.    Here  is  owned  a  steam 


irXW    YORK    TO   ALBANY,    TROY,   ETO«  30 

boat  and  4  barges,  besides  several  sloops  employed  in  transport* 
ing  produce  and  merchandise  to  and  from  the  city  of  New  York 
and  different  places  on  the  river.  A  ferry-boat  plies  across  the 
river  from  the  landing  at  that  place,  to  Oak  Hill,  Columbia 
County  A  stage  runs  from  Catskill  to  Hudson,  via  Athens, 
twice  daily,  and  a  stage  runs  semi-weekly  to  Prattsville,  via 
Hunter  and  Lexington.  Stages  also  run  daily  during  the  warm 
weather  from  the  steamboat  landing  to  the 

Catskill  Moiintain  Housk,  at  the  Pine  Orchard,  distant 
about  12  miles  from  Catskill.  The  following  is  a  glowing  de- 
Bcription  of  this  well-known  and  charming  summer  retreat : 

*'  Pine  Orchard,  forming  a  part  of  the  Catskill  Mountain 
range,  is  situated  about  12  miles  from  Catskill,  Greene  County. 
It  is  elevated  3,000  feet  above  the  tide -waters  of  the  Hudson, 
which  noble  stream,  and  the  surrounding  country,  it  overlooks 
for  a  great  distance,  affording  a  varied  and  extensive  view  of 
the  greatest  interest.  On  the  summit  is  erected  a  large  and 
commodious  public  house,  called  the  Mountain  House,  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors,  who  resort  here  in  great  numbers 
during  the  summer  months.  In  this  vicinity  are  other  mount- 
ain peaks  of  still  greater  elevation,  and  water-falls  of  the  most 
wild  and  romantic  character,  altogether  forming  unrivaled 
attractions,  which  are  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  From  this  lofty 
eminence  all  inequalities  of  surface  are  overlooked.  A  seem- 
ingly endless  succession  of  woods  and  waters,  farms  and  vil- 
lages, towns  and  cities,  are  spread  out  as  upon  a  boundless 
map.  Far  in  the  east  rise  the  Taghkanic  Mountains,  and  the 
highlands  of  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts.  To  the  left,  and 
at  a  still  greater  distance,  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont 
stretch  away  to  the  north,  and  their  blue  summits  and  the  blue 
sky  mingle  together.  The  beautiful  Hudson,  studded  with 
islands,  appears  narrowed  in  the  distance,  with  steamboats  al- 
most constantly  in  sight ;  while  vessels  of  every  description 
spreading  their  white  canvas  to  the  breeze,  are  moving  rapidly 
over  its  surface,  or  idly  loitering  in  the  calm.  These  may  be 
traced  to  the  distance  of  nearly  seventy  miles  with  the  naked 


40        NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  KTO. 

eye ;  and  again  at  times  all  below  is  enveloped  in  dark  olonds 
and  rolling  mist,  which,  driven  nbout  by  the  wind,  is  constantly 
assuming  new,  wild,  and  fantastic  forms.  From  Pine  Orchard, 
a  ride  or  walk  of  a  mile  or  two  brings  you  to  the  Kaaterskill 
falls.  Here  the  outlet  of  two  small  lakes  leaps  down  a  perpcn 
dicular  fall  of  130  feet,  then  glides  away  through  a  channel 
worn  in  the  rock,  to  a  second  fall  of  80  feet.  Below  this  it  is 
lost  in  the  dark  ravine,  through  which  it  finds  its  way  to  the 
valley  of  the  Catskill." 

The  City  of  Hudson,  situate  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
116  miles  from  New  York  and  29  miles  from  Albany,  is  a  place 
of  much  trade  and  importance.  It  lies  near  the  head  of  ship 
navigation,  and  was  formerly  celebrated  for  being  largely  en- 
gaged in  the  West  India  trade,  and  more  recently  in  the  whale 
fishery.  Hudson  was  first  settled  in  1783i  by  Thomas  Jenkins 
and  others,  most  of  whom  were  Quakers,  from  Massachusetts 
and  Rhode  Island.  The  city  was  chartered  in  1785,  and  is  di- 
vided into  2  wards;  in  1860  it  contained  7,187  inhabitants, 
about  900  dwelling-houses,  a  court-house  and  jail,  with  a  beau- 
tiful white  marble  front,  surmounted  by  a  dome;  8  church- 
es of  different  denominations,  including  2  Friends'  meeting- 
houses ;  2  banks,  2  public  markets,  and  5  hotels.  The  Hudson 
Academy  at  this  place  is  an  old  chartered  institution,  and  the 
Hudson  Female  Seminary  is  a  new  and  flourishing  boarding- 
school  for  young  ladies ;  besides  which  there  are  several  schools, 
both  male  and  female.  The  Franklin  Library  Association  is  a 
young  and  popular  institution,  to  which  is  attached  a  large 
library  and  philosophical  apparatus.  The  Hudson  Lunatic 
Asylum  is  situated  on  State  Street,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
city,  facing  the  court-house  on  the  south.  The  city  is  supplied 
by  pure  and  wholesome  water  by  a  chartered  aqueduct  com- 
pany, who  bring  the  water  in  iron  pipes  from  a  spring  about  2 
miles  distant.  The  Hudson  and  Boston  Railroad  commences 
at  this  place,  and  extends  to  West  Stockbridge,  Mass.,  a  dis- 
tance of  34  miles  ;  running  within  7  miles  of  Lebanon  Springs, 
which  are  much  resorted  to  during  the  summer.    The  New 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC.        41 

Tork  and  Albany  steamboats  also  land  and  receive  passengers, 
in  addition  to  the  passage-boats  which  run  to  and  from  New 
York  direct,  thus  affording  a  speedy  communication  between 
the  cities  of  New  York  and  Boston,  a  total  distance  by  this  route 
of  about  300  miles,  extending  through  an  interesting  country. 

The  Hudson  River  Railroad  passes  through  the  city,  near 
the  water's  edge.  A  steam  ferry-boat  crosses  the  river  from 
Hudson  to  Athens,  a  chartered  village  on  the  west  shore,  con- 
taining about  1,700  inhabitants. 

Four  Mile  Point,  120  miles  above  New  York,  is  considered 
the  head  of  ship  navigation  on  the  Hudson.  Kinderhook  Creek 
here  enters  the  river  on  the  east  side,  and  near  its  mouth  is 
situated  the  manufacturing  village  of  Columbiavillb. 


Columbia  Springs. — These  Springs  are  situated  about  4 
miles  north  of  the  city  of  Hudson,  in  the  town  of  Stockport, 
Columbia  County,  N.  Y.,  and  although  but  little  known  to  the 
public,  they  may  be  ranked  among  the  most  valuable  of  any  in 
the  State  for  the  peculiar  medicinal  and  curative  qualities  of 
the  water. 

The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  not  only  beautiful,  but  highly 
l*omantic,  and  well  calculated  to  attract  and  please  the  visitor. 
In  the  immediate  vicinity  flows  a  fine  stream  of  water,  where 
those  who  are  fond  of  sailing,  or  delight  in  the  sports  of  fish- 
ing, can  wile  away  their  time  in  a  pleasant  and  agreeable  man- 
ner. Here,  too,  thDse  who  love  to  ramble  o'er  hill  and  dale, 
or  follow  the  windings  of  the  rivulet  as  it  flows  along,  now 
smooth  and  placid,  and  anon  lashing  itself  into  a  foam  as  it 
dashes  from  rock  to  rock,  in  us  wild  and  majestic  course,  can 
find  enough  to  gratify  their  curiosity. 

The  proprietor  of  these  Springs,  in  addition  to  the  erection 
of  a  large  and  commodious  house,  is  engaged  in  laying  out  and 
fixing  up  the  grounds — erecting  bathing,  spring,  and  summer 
houses,  necessary  for  the  convenience  and  comfort  of  those  who 
may  desire  to  avail  themselves  of  the  full  benefits  to  be  derived 
from  the  use  of  the  water. 

4* 


42        NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC. 

New  Lebanon  Springs. — This  justly  celebrated  Spa  is  de- 
lightfully situated  near  the  division  line  between  the  States  of 
New  York  and  Massachusetts,  26  miles  from  Albany.  There 
are  fine  accommodations  at  the  Springs,  which  are  situated  on 
the  side  of  a  hill,  overlooking  one  of  the  most  lovely  valleys  of 
our  country.  The  cavity  from  which  the  water  gushes  is  10 
feet  in  diameter,  and  the  quantity  is  sufl&cient  to  drive  a  milL 
Its  temperature  is  uniformly  72°.  It  is  tasteless,  inodorous, 
and  soft,  admirably  adapted  to  bathing,  and  excellent  in  cu- 
taneous affections,  rheumatism,  internal  obstructions,  liver  com- 
plaint, nervous  debility,  etc. 

A  person  standing  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  in  the  rear  of  Co- 
lumbia Hall,  will  find  he  can  produce  a  fine  echo,  at  pleasure. 
In  the  neighborhood  are  small  lakes  and  streams  filled  with 
trout,  and  there  are  beautiful  roads  and  beautiful  villages  with- 
in a  few  hours'  ride,  in  all  directions. 

About  two  miles  from  the  hotel  is  the  celebrated  Shaker  Set- 
tlement, which  is  much  visited  by  strangers,  particularly  on 
Sunday,  when  their  very  remarkable  forms  of  worship  are 
practiced. 

Lebanon  Springs  are  now  upon  the  line  of  railways,  and  are 
reached  without  difficulty  either  from  Hudson,  Albany,  New 
York,  or  Boston. 


CoxsACKiE  La-  .'Ing,  8  miles  above  Hudson,  is  situated  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Hudson,  22  miles  below  the  city  of  Albany 
Here  are  three  separate  landings  within  the  distance  of  a  mile, 
altogether  containing  about  1.800  inhabitants,  250  dwelling- 
houses,  4  churches,  an  academy,  4  public  houses,  20  stores  of 
different  kinds,  and  15  warehouses,  1  steam  plaster  mill  and  1 
furnace.  1  ship-yard  and  2  dry  docks  for  building  and  repair- 
ing vessels ;  19  extensive  brick  yardi,  where  are  manufactured 
yearly  about  30,000,000  bricks.  This  is  also  a  convenient 
steamboat  landing,  at  which  steamboats  touch  several  times 
daily  during  the  season  of  navigation.  ,  ^^^, 


^if'!^ 


I 

NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROT,  ETC.       4B 

The  village  of  Coxsackie,  1  mile  west  of  the  landing,  con- 
tains about  600  inhabitants,  and  is  surrounded  by  fertile  lands, 
extending  to  the  base  of  the  Helderberg  Mountains. 

Stuyvksant,  4  miles  farther  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
is  a  flourishing  place  of  business,  from  which  large  quantities 
of  produce  are  annually  sent  to  the  New  York  market,  the 
country  in  the  interior  being  justly  celebrated  for  its  fer- 
tility. 

A  short  distance  north  is  the  steamboat  landing  for  the 
above  place,  and  for  the  village  of  Kinder  hook,  situated 
about  5  miles  east  of  the  river,  and  noted  for  the  beauty  of  its 
location.  It  is  the  birth-place  of  ex-President  Van  Buren,  and 
his  present  residence  is  a  pleasant  seat  about  2  miles  south  of 
the  village. 

New  Baltimore,  4  miles  above,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson,  and  14  miles  from  Albany,  is  a  village  of  about  1)00 
inhabitants.  Here  is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing,  where 
the  passage-boats  usually  land  and  receive  passengers. 

CoEYMANs,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  12  miles  below 
Albany,  is  the  last  landing  the  boats  make  on  their  upward 
trips.  The  village  contains  about  900  inhabitants,  and  here 
are  owned  several  sloops  trading  with  the  New  York  market. 
Barren  Island ^  lying  immediately  below  the  village  of  Coey- 
mans,  is  on  the  south  bounds  of  the  old  colony  of  Rensselaer- 
wyck,  and  was  fortified  and  garrisoned  by  one  of  the  early 
Patroons  in  1644.  All  foreign  traders  were  here  obliged  to 
come  to,  and  learn  the  terms  on  which  the  port  of  the  colony 
might  be  entered.  It  now  presents  a  rocky  and  sterile  appear- 
ance, being  well  adapted  for  the  purposes  for  which  it  was 
originally  occupied,  as  it  completely  commands  the  channel  of 
the  river. 

Castleton,  4  miles  above  Coeymans  and  8  miles  from  Al- 
bany, is  on  the  east  side  of  the  river.  Here  is  forming  a  bar 
in  the  channel  of  the  river,  which  is  very  injurious  to  navi- 
gation. 

The  Overslaugh,  3  miles  below  the  city  of  Albany,  haa 


44       NBW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  KTO. 

heretofore  formed  the  principal  obstruction  to  the  free  nayiga- 
tion  of  the  Hudson  on  its  tide- waters.  Here  were  several  bars 
or  flats,  with  narrow  channels,  affording  at  low  tides  but  a 
small  depth  of  water— this  obstruction,  however,  has  of  late 
been  mostly  removed  by  an  expenditure  by  the  United  States 
Government,  the  depth  of  the  water  being  materially  increased, 
the  channel  made  straight,  and  the  navigation  much  improved. 

Greenbush,  opposite  the  south  part  of  the  city  of  Albany, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam  ferry-boat,  contains 
about  3,000  inhabitants.  Immediately  above  may  be  seen  the 
depot  and  buildings  attached  to  the  Hudson  River  Railroad. 

East  Albany,  144  miles  from  New  York  and  6  miles  below 
Troy,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Hudson  River  Railroad  and  Al- 
bany and  West  Sfcockbridge  Railroad,  a  link  of  the  JVestern 
Railroad  of  Massachusetts.  Here  also  terminates  the  Troy 
and  Greenbush  Railroad. 

ALBANY,  the  capital  of  the  State,  and  one  of  the  oldest 
cities  in  the  Union,  is  eligibly  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson  River,  145  miles  north  of  the  city  of  New  York ;  298 
miles  by  railroad,  east  of  Buffalo ;  200  west  of  Boston,  and  250 
south  of  Montreal.  It  was  originally  called  **  Beaver  Wyck'* 
(i.  e.,  Beaver  Town),  and  afterward  *'  Williamstadt."  It  re- 
ceived its  present  name  in  1664,  in  honor  of  James,  duke  of 
York  and  Albany,  afterward  James  II.,  in  whose  reign  the 
original  city  charter  was  granted  by  Governor  Dongan,  July 
22,  1686,  and  the  government  vested  in  "  The  Mayor,  Alder- 
men, and  Commonalty  of  the  city  of  Albany,"  consisting  of  the 
Mayor,  Recorder,  ten  Aldermen,  and  ton  Assistants.  The 
charter  has  been  materially  altered  by  recent  enactments  of 
the  Legislature;  the  assistant  aldermen  are  merged  in  ten 
aldermen,  but  the  corporate  name  is  still  preserved.  It  is  now 
divided  into  ten  wards.     In  1860  its  peculation  was  62,367. 

It  is  indebted  for  its  prosperity  to  the  enterprise  of  its  inhab- 
itants, and  the  impulse  given  to  its  trade  by  che  Erie  and 
Champlain  canals,  which  unite  about  8  miles  to  the  north,  and 
ttiter  the  Hudson  Blver  at  the  north  end  of  the  city.    A  basin 


FEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC.       45 

has  been  formed  in  front  of  the  city,  protected  from  the  river 
by  u  pier  one  mile  and  a  quarter  in  longth,  furnishing  a  safe 
harbor  for  yessels,  and  securing  them  from  injury  by  the  ice, 
which  in  the  spring  freshets  comes  down  the  river  in  immense 
quantities,  sometimes  causing  great  damage.  The  city  is  com- 
manding in  its  situation,  and  appears  to  great  advantage  from 
the  river.  There  are  three  ravines  running  from  east  to  west, 
known  as  the  Foxes  Kill,  the  Rutten  Kill,  and  the  Beaver  Kill, 
on  each  side  of  which  the  land  is  high,  being  at  an  elevation  of 
from  140  to  160  feet  above,  and  gradually  ascending  from  the 
river  The  view  from  either  of  the  heights  is  picturesque  in 
the  highest  degree.  To  the  north  may  be  seen  the  city  of  Troy 
and  the  adjacent  villages,  and  in  the  distance  the  hills  of  Ver- 
mont. To  the  east  the  beautiful  extent  of  country  lying 
beyond  the  Hudson  River,  and  to  the  south  the  Helderbergs 
and  Catskill  Mountains.  The  public  buildings  are  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  tasteful  character.  The  Capitol,  occupied  by  the 
Legislature  and  the  State  courts ;  the  State  Hall,  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  public  offices;  the  City  Hall,  occupied  for  city 
and  county  purposes,  and  by  the  United  States  courts;  and 
the  Albany  Academy,  having  300  pupils,  face  the  public  square 
at  the  head  of  State  Street.  This  square  is  formed  by  the 
Capitol  and  Academy  parks,  which  are  inclosed  with  substan- 
tial iron  fences,  erected  on  stone  bases,  and  are  laid  out  with 
walks  lined  with  ornamental  trees  of  choicest  species.  A  more 
delightful  spot  in  the  summer  is  not  to  be  found  in  any  inland 
city  in  the  Union.  A  few  rods  south  of  the  square,  on  Eagle 
Street,  is  the  County  Jail  and  the  Medical  College.  This  col- 
lege was  incorporated  in  1839,  and  occupies  a  buildiDg  granted 
to  it  by  the  corporation  of  the  city,  admirably  adapted  for  its 
purposes.  The  college  already  possesses  one  of  the  most  valuable 
museums  in  the  country,  which  has  recently  been  greatly  en- 
larged and  enriched  by  specimens  imported  direct  from  Ger- 
many and  France.  The  Albany  Exchange,  situated  at  the  foot 
of  State  Street,  is  a  large  and  commodious  building,  constructed 
of  granite.     It  is  occupied  for  stores,  offices  of  professional  men. 


46       MKW  TORK  TO  ALBANY,  TKOT,  ETC.. 

and  the  post-office.  The  Young  Men's  Association,  established 
for  '•  Mutual  Improvement,"  was  the  pioneer  institution  of  its 
kind  in  this  State,  and  embraces  all  ranks  and  professions,  now 
numbering  about  1,G00  members.  It  has  an  extensive  reading- 
room,  supplied  with  the  leading  newspapers  of  this  country  and 
England ;  also  a  room,  furnished  with  the  most  popular  and 
standard  periodicals  and  reviews,  native  and  foreign ;  an  excel- 
lent library  of  several  thousand  volumes,  and  a  lecture-room 
capable  of  seating  800  persons,  in  which  two  lectures  a  week 
are  delivered,  from  the  first  of  December  to  the  first  of  March. 
Strangers  have  free  access  to  all  except  the  lecture-room  and 
library.  There  are  four  Presbyterian  churches,  one  Associate 
do,,  three  Dutch  Reformed,  one  Unitarian,  four  Methodist 
Episcopal,  one  African  do.,  three  Baptist,  one  colored  do.,  two 
Lutheran,  five  Episcopalian,  one  Universalist,  three  Roman 
Catholic,  one  Independent  church,  one  Mission  House,  two 
Jewish  Synagogues,  one  Bethel,  and  one  Friends'  meeting- 
house. 

The  Old  State  Hall,  recently  occupied  for  state  offices,  is  con- 
verted into  a  museum  for  the  reception  of  the  geological  cabinet 
formed  under  the  direction  of  the  State  geological  surveyors. 
The  New  York  State  Agricultural  Society  also  here  hold  their 
meetings  in  a  room  reserved  for  that  purpose.  The  other  pub- 
lic institutions  whose  meetings  are  held  at  Albany  are  the 
New  York  State  Temperance  Society  and  the  State  Medical 
Society.  There  are  also  in  the  city,  in  addition  to  those  men- 
tioned, various  benevolent,  religious,  and  scientific  institutions  ; 
among  them  the  Albany  Institute,  with  a  valuable  library  and 
extensive  museum,  occupying  a  room  in  the  Albany  Academy. 

The  Dudley  Observatory  is  a  new  and  popular  institution, 
being  very  liberally  endowed  by  a  lady  whose  name  it  bears. 

PRINCIPAL  rOTELS  IN  ALBANY. 
American  Hotel,  H.  B.  Clark,  100  State  Street. 
Congress  Hotel,  James  L.  Mitchell,  Park  Place. 
Delevan  House,  T.  Roessle  &  Son,  Broadway,  near  R.  R.  Depdt. 
Stanwix  Hall,  Francid  Rider,  Broadway,  op.  Railroad  Depot. 


KKW  YORK    TO    ALBANY,    TROY,  ETC.  4Pt 

RAILROADS. 

The  Hudson  River  Railrmd,  1 44  miles  in  length  ;  the  WeMem 
Railroad  of  MawMichusetts,  200  miles  in  length  ;  the  Albany 
Northern  Railroad,  and  the  great  New  Fork  Central  'Railroad,  ex- 
tending to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls,  all  terminate  at  Albany, 
rendering  it  one  of  the  greatest  thoroughfares  in  the  Union. 

Nbw  Yoek  Central  Railroad  and  its  Branchks  : 

Albany  to  Buffalo— Direct  Route 298  miles. 

Troy  and  Schenectady  Branch 21  ** 

Auburn  and  Rochester      "     104  '* 

Rochester  and  Charlotte    '*     7  *' 

Lockport  and  Niagara  Falls  Branch 75  •* 

Lockport  and  Buffalo                    "     12  •« 

Buffalo,  Niagara  Falls,  and  Lewiston  Branch 28  ** 

Batavia  and  Attica                                   "     11  ** 

Total 556  miles. 

Length  of  Double  Track 398  miles. 

Total  Cost  of  Road  and  Equipment $32,740,068 

Canandaiqua  and  Niagara  Falls  Railroad,  leased 
by  the  Central  Railroad 86  miles. 

Making  a  total  length  of  Railroad  operated  by  the 
above  Company  of 642  miles. 

Fare  for  first-class  passengers 2  cents  per  mile. 

Average  rate  of  speed  adopted  by  Express 
Trains,  including  stops 30  miles  per  hour. 


Albany  and  Susquehannah  Railroad,  when  completed,  will  ex- 
tend from  Albany  to  Binghamton,  140  miles ;  finished  to 
Schoharie  Bridge,  35  miles,  passing  through  an  interesting 
section  of  country.     jZ^*  To  Sharon  Springs,  10  miles  by  stage. 

Two  City  Railroads  are  finished  and  in  operation,  running  to 
different  parts  of  the  city,      ^  ^ 


48  NEW    YORK    TO    ALBANY,   TROY,    ETC. 

Distances  from  Albany  to  Montreal,  via  Saratoga  Springs 

and  Luke  Chumplain : 

To  Troy,  by  Hudson  Rivtr^or  railroad  . .  6  Miles. 

Ballston  Sjia,                                   *♦         ..  25    81  ♦• 

Saratoga  Springs,                           "         . .  7     88  •« 

Whitehall  «        ..89    77  " 

Burlington,  by  steamboat 70  158  *' 

Plattsburgh,  by  steamboat 178  •♦ 

Kouse'a  Point,  by  steamboat 208  •* 

St.  .John's,  Canada,  by  railroad 23  22(3  •* 

Montreal,  by  railroad 22  248 


<< 


We  copy  the  following  Extract  relating  to  the  early  history 
of  Albany : 

♦'The  younger  race  of  fawhionables  and  semi-fashionables 
know  Albany,  or  affect  to  know  it,  merely  as  a  big,  city-looking 
place,  full  of  taverns  and  hotels,  where  thoy  land  from  the 
steamboat,  on  their  way  to  Saratoga,  Niagara,  or  Quebec. 
Another  set  of  lesH  locomotive  gool  folks,  especially  in  New 
York  and  Philadclphiu,  liavo  no  notions  about  it,  but  those  de- 
rived from  the  old  traditionary  joke*  upon  its  ancient  Schepens 
and  Sclioutoiis,  ita  burly  burgomasters,  *  its  lofty  spires  glitter- 
ing with  tin,  and  hos2)itable  boards  smoking  with  sturgeon.' 

*'  But,  in  honest  truth,  th  le  are  few  cities  of  the  size  any- 
where which  CLin  exhibit  a  greater  or  a  more  agreeable  variety 
of  society  and  manners.  In  ban>  may  be  found  talent  and 
learning,  accomplishment  and  beauty.  The  towns  of  Europe 
of  the  same  size  and  relative  importance,  can  in  this  respect 
bear  no  sort  of  comparison  with  it.  Then,  too,  its  situation, 
the  prospect  from  its  higher  grounds  and  streets,  abound  in 
scenes  meet  for  romantic  fiction.  Albany  is  rich  also  in  more 
sober  but  equally  interesting  recollections  of  our  national  his- 
tory. There  (to  use  the  once  familiar  personification  in  which 
Indian  oratory  delighted  to  speak  of  the  French  and  English 
governments),  Corlaer  and  Ononthio  were  wont  to  meet  and 
plant  the  tree  of  peace,  or  else  extinguish  their  council  fire  and 
part  in  wrath.  There,  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century 
(1751),  tlie  governors  of  the  several  proyiuoes  met  the  chiefs  of 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALDANT,  TROY,  ETC,        49 

tho  Six  Nations,  and  the  ambassadors  of  the  Catawbas  and 
other  Southern  tribes,  and  buried  the  hatchet  between  tho 
whole  Indian  race  on  thi»  continent,  and  planted  tho  tree  of 
peace  in  Fort  Orange.*  There,  three  years  after,  was  held  that 
fiist  General  Congress,  in  which  the  earliest  arrangements  for 
national  defense  were  made,  and  wliore,  by  one  of  those  remark- 
able coincidences  with  which  the  hand  of  Providence  has  legi- 
bly inscribed  tho  evidence  of  his  own  workings  in  every  part  of 
our  national  history,  upon  the  4th  of  July,  1764,  Benjamin 
Franklin,  and  other  patriots  destined  to  the  highest  honors  of 
tlieir  country,  signed  the  first  plan  of  American  Union,  and 
proclaime<l  to  the  colonies  that  they  were  one  people,  fit  to  gov- 
ern and  able  to  protect  themselves  Why  need  1  speak  of  the 
events  of  the  lievolutiou  ?  At  Albany,  in  the  most  eventful  pe- 
riods of  that  struggle,  Montgomery,  and  Schuyler,  and  Gates, 
and  the  elder  Clinton,  in  turns,  planned  or  directed  the  opera- 
tions of  war,  while  the  civil  wisdom  and  moral  courage  of  Jay 
gave  new  confidence  to  public  spirit,  and  fresh  vigor  to  our 
counsels." 

ALBANY,    NINETY    YEARS    SINCE. 

The  following  description  of  Albany  is  taken  from  Mrs.  Grant's 
interesting  '*  Memoirs  of  an  American  Lady  :" 

"  The  city  of  Albany  was  stretched  along  the  banks  of  the 
Hudson;  one  very  wide  and  long  street  lay  parallel  to  the 
river,  the  intermediate  space  between  it  and  the  shore  being  oc 
cupied  by  gardens.  A  small  but  steep  hill  rose  above  the  cen- 
ter of  the  town,  on  which  stood  a  fort,  intended  (but  very  ill 
adapted)  for  the  defense  of  the  place  and  of  the  neighboring 
country.  From  the  foot  of  this  hill  another  street  was  built 
[now  State  Street],  sloping  pretty  rapidly  down  till  it  joined 
the  one  before  mentioned  that  ran  along  the  river.  This  street 
was  still  wider  than  the  other ;  it  was  only  paved  on  each  side, 
the  middle  being  occupied  by  public  edifices.     These  consisted 

•  On  the  spot  where  now  stands  the  house  formerly  occupied  by  the 
venerable  Sinieou  De  Witt,  for  many  years  Surveyor-Goneral  ol'  the  State, 
and  at  present  known  as  the  Fobt  Obamgb  Hotel,  situated  in  Marlceji 
Street,  near  Lydius  Street. 

6 


fiO  NEW   YORK   TO    ALBANY,    TROY,    ETC. 

df  a  market-place,  or  guard-house,  town  hall,  and  the  English 
and  Dutch  churches.  The  English  church  stood  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  street ;  the  Dutch  church  was  situated  at  the  bottom 
of  the  descent  where  the  street  terminated.  The  town,  in  pro- 
portion to  its  population,  occupied  a  great  space  of  ground. 
This  city,  in  short,  was  a  kind  of  semi-rural  establishment; 
every  house  had  its  garden,  a  well,  and  a  little  green  behind ; 
before  every  door  a  tree  was  planted,  rendered  interesting  by 
being  coeval  with  some  beloved  member  of  the  family." 


The  City  of  Troy,  150  miles  north  of  New  York  by  railroad 
route,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson 
River,  at  the  head  of  tide- water  and  steamboat  navigation,  6 
miles  above  Albany,  It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1816, 
when  it  contained  nearly  5,000  inhabitants;  it  has  recently 
been  made  a  port  of  entry,  and  contained  in  1860,  89.235  inhab- 
itants, who  are  mostly  engaged  in  commerce,  navigation,  and 
manufactures.  Since  the  completion  of  the  Erie  and  Champlain 
canals,  in  1825,  which,  opposite  this  place,  at  the  village  of 
West  Troy,  unite  the  waters  of  the  lakes  with  those  of  the  Hud- 
son, Troy  has  rapidly  increased  in  wealth  and  population. 
Here  are  a  fine  court-house,  built  of  marble,  in  the  Grecian 
Doric  order;  a  jail  constructed  of  brick;  a  county  poor-house, 
to  which  a  farm  containing  about  200  acres  is  attached ;  the 
Troy  Female  Seminary,  a  flourishing  chartered  institution; 
the  Troy  University  recently  established,  is  a  chartered  institu- 
tion largely  endowed ;  there  are  besides  several  select  schools  for 
males  and  females.  Troy  contains  two  new  finely -modeled  and 
expensive  market  buildings  ;  seven  Presbyterian  churches,  three 
Episcopal,  two  Baptist,  two  Methodist,  two  Catholic,  one  Uni- 
versalist,  one  Friends'  meeting-house,  and  an  African  church; 
ten  banks ;  four  savings'  banks  ;  two  insurance  companies ;  one 
lyceum  of  natural  history,  with  a  choice  scientific  library,  and 
an  extensive  collection  of  minerals,  and  collections  in  various 
branches  of  natural  history ;  a  Young  Men's  Association  for 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC.       51 

mutual  improvement,  with  a  large  library  and  extensive  read  • 
ing-room.  The  principal  hotels  are  the  American  Hotel,  Fourth j 
corner  of  Elbow  Street ;  Mansion  House,  4  Washington  Square ; 
Trey  House,  River,  corner  of  First,  Street. 

Here  are  owned  about  60  masted  vessels,  four  large  passage 
steamboats  of  the  first  class,  two  smaller  steam  passage-boats, 
and  five  steam  tow-boats,  with  22  barges,  which  ply  between 
Troy  and  New  York,  transporting  annually  an  immense  amount 
of  produce  and  merchandise.  Four  lines  of  passage  and  freight 
boats  run  on  the  Champlain  Canal  from  Troy ;  a  line  of  packet 
schooners  run  from  this  place  to  Boston  and  other  Eastern  ports ; 
a  line  of  canal  packets  to  Whitehall,  and  lines  of  daily  stages 
run  to  Whitehall,  and  Bennington,  Vt.,  and  to  Brattleboro,  Vt., 
and  Boston.  The  water-power  at  Troy  is  immense,  and  a  large 
portion  of  it  still  unoccupied.  Within  the  limits  of  the  city, 
and  about  a  mile  east  of  the  Hudson,  a  tunnel  has  been  exca- 
vated by  Mr.  Benjamin  Marshall,  extending  from  the  Peekskill, 
a  distance  of  about  800  feet,  and  gives  a  fall  of  180  feet.  *  Seve- 
ral large  mills  and  factories,  to  be  supplied  with  water  from 
this  fall,  are  now  in  the  progress  of  erection.  Near  the  north- 
ern boundary  of  the  city  a  dam  has  been  built  across  the  Hud- 
son, by  the  State,  which  here  makes  a  fall  of  11^  feet,  and 
creates  an  incalculable  amount  of  hydraulic  power.  This  place 
is  abundantly  supplied  with  wholesome  water,  brought  from 
the  Piscawin  Creek  through  large  iron  pipes,  with  hydrants  at 
the  corners  of  the  streets. 

The  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad  commences  at  this 
place,  crossing  the  Hudson  River  by  a  substantial  bridge,  1,650 
feet  in  length,  to  Green  Island ;  thence  it  continues  north 
across  several  branches  of  the  Mohawk  River  to  Waterford ;  fol- 
lowing the  valley  of  the  Hudson  until  it  reaches  Mechanicsville, 
where  it  diverges  to  the  west  and  continues  to  the  village  of 
Ballston  Spa,  a  distance  of  25  miles,  and  unites  with  the  Sara- 
toga and  Schenectady  Railroad.  The  Schenectady  and  Troy 
Railroady  21  miles  in  len^h,  was  completed  in  1842  j  it  now 


52       NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC. 

forras  part  of  the  New  York  Central  Railroad.  Tlie  Troy 
and  Greenhush  Railroad,  6  miles  in  length,  connects  with  the 
Hudson  River  Railroad ;  and  the  Troy  and  Boston  Railroad, 
when  completed,  will  make  a  direct  railroad  communication 
from  Troy  to  Boston,  and  furnish  a  continuous  line  of  railroads 
from  Boston  to  Buffalo. 

The  city  of  Troy  has  long  been  celebrated  for  its  beauty  and 
healthiness.  The  streets  are  laid  out  at  right  angles,  are  gene- 
rally wide,  remarkable  for  their  cleanliness,  and  planted  with 
beautiful  and,  in  the  hot  season,  most  grateful  forest  and  shade 
trees.  From  Mounts  Ida  on  the  east  and  Olympus  on  the  north, 
an  extensive  and  charming  prospect  is  presented,  embracing  a 
view  of  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  for  miles,  the  city  of  Albany, 
the  villages  of  West  Troy,  Lansingburgh,  Waterford,  and  Cohoes, 
and  the  Cohoes  Falls ;  a  landscape  presenting  more  beauty 
and  a  greater  variety  of  scenery  can  hardly  be  imagined. 
From,  the  elevations  just  mentioned,  the  eye  rests  at  once,  as  on 
a  map  spread  out  before  it,  on  city  and  village  teeming  with  life 
and  activity — the  broad  Hudson  rolling  on  in  majesty  to  the 
ocean,  and  bearing  on  its  bosom  fleets  of  boats  and  vessels— a 
long  extent  of  the  Eri^,  Canal,  itself  no  common  stream,  floating 
to  market  the  products  of  the  West — railroads,  over  which  are 
passing  with  lightning  speed  multitudes  in  pursuit  of  business 
or  pleasure — on  woodlands  and  cultivated  fields  harmoniously 
blended — and  on  a  western  horizon  of  undulating  highlands, 
which  toward  the  south  blend  with  the  famed  Catskill  Mount- 
ains, lifting  their  giant  heads  to  the  clouds. 

West  Troy,  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Hudson  River, 
6  miles  above  the  city  of  Albany,  is  a  place  of  growing  import- 
ance. It  was  incorporated  as  a  village  in  1836,  and  now 
contains  about  10,000  inhabitants,  1,200  dwelling-houses,  10 
churches,  six  public  houses,  a  large  number  of  stores,  and 
mechanics'  shops.  The  Erie  Canal,  which  passes  through  the 
center  of  the  village,  communicates  with  the  Hudson  by  two 
commodious  side-cuts.  It  is  a  convenient  depot  for  vast  quanti- 
ties of  produce,  lumber,  and  merchandise,  being  on  the  Junction 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC.       53 

Canal,  and  at  the  head  of  eloop  navigation.     The  southern 
mouth  of  the  Mohawk  here  unites  with  the  Hudson. 

The  Watervliet  Arsenal.,  situated  in  West  Troyf  near  the 
riyer,  was  established  by  the  United  States  Government  in  1813. 
This  is  the  largest  arsenal  of  construction  in  the  Union,  having 
great  facilities  for  the  manufacture  and  transportation  of  war- 
like implements,  and  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  grounds 
attached  to  the  arsenal  consist  of  about  100  acres,  inclosed  in 
front  by  an  iron  fence,  and  in  the  rear  by  a  stone  wall.  Here 
are  located  33  buildings,  comprising  storehouses  for  small  arms, 
gun  sheds  for  cannon  carriages,  timber  sheds,  magazines,  saw- 
mill, paint,  carriage,  machine,  casting,  and  blacksmith  shops ; 
offices,  barracks,  hospitals,  and  officers'  quarters.  About 
200  officers,  soldiers,  and  hired  workmen  are  constantly  em- 
ployed at  this  post,  which  number  could  be  greatly  increased  if 
found  necessary.  Here  are  now  manufactured  munitions  of 
war  amounting  to  an  estimated  value  of  $500,000  annually. 

Lansingburgh,  3  miles  above  Troy,  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Hudson,  is  one  of  the  oldest  villages  in  the  State,  being  incor- 
porated as  early  as  1787.  It  now  contains  about  4,500  inhabit- 
ants. During  the  Revolutionary  war  it  was  a  place  of  consider- 
able importance.  It  has  since  increased  but  slowly,  owing  to 
obstructions  in  the  channel  of  the  Hudson,  and  the  consequent 
growth  of  Troy. 

Waterford,  situated  1  mile  above  Lansingburgh,  on  the  op- 
pr  ite  side  of  the  river,  and  155  miles  north  of  the  city  of  New 
York,  is  at  the  very  head  of  sloop  navigation  on  the  Hudson, 
with  which  the  northern  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  her^unites. 
Navigation  is  kept  up  to  this  place  by  means  of  a  dam  aRl  stoop 
loch  at  the  upper  part  of  the  city  of  Troy.  Waterford  was  in- 
corporated in  1805,  and  now  contains  a  population  o^about 
8,000  inhabitants.  ^^ 

The  village  of  Cohoes,  2  miles  west  of  Waterford,  is  situated 
on  the  southwest  bank  of  the  Mohawk  River,  a  short  distance 
below  the  Cohoes  Falls,  and  near  the  junction  of  the  Erie  and 

5* 


54       NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC. 

Charaplain  canals.  Here  is-  afforded  by  the  Mohawk  an  immense 
amount  of  hydraulic  power.  If  found  necessary,  the  whole  vol- 
ume of  wat^r  in  the  river  can  be  used  for  propelling  machinery 
to  almost  any  extent,  having  a  total  fall  of  about  140  feet. 
Here  are  several  extensive  cotton  and  other  manufacturing 
establishments ;  six  churches,  twc  or  three  hotels,  and  a  popu- 
lation of  7,000  inhabitants,  mostly  employed  in  the  above 
manufactories.  The  Schenectady  and  Troy  Railroad  passes 
near  the  village,  also  the  Albany  JVorthern  Railroad  crossing 
the  Mohawk  a  short  distance  below  the  falls,  affording  a  speedy 
conveyance  to  and  from  this  interesting  locality. 

CoHOEs  Falls,  situated  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Cohoes 
village,  is  an  object  of  great  attraction.  It  is  much  resorted  to 
during  the  summer  months  by  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the 
Union.  The  water  of  the  Mohawk  here  has  a  parpandicular  fall 
of  70  feet,  besides  a  rapid  descent  above  and  below.  The  banks 
of  the  river  present  a  grand  and  romantic  appearance,  varying 
in  almost  perpendicular  height  of  from  50  to  120  feet,  for  a  dis- 
tance of  half  a  mile  below  the  falls,  where  a  substantial  bridge, 
about  800  feet  long,  spans  the  stream. 

For  a  distance  of  70  miles  above  these  falls,  the  Mohawk 
winds  through  a  romantic  valley,  formerly  affording  batteaux 
navigation.  At  Little  Falls  occurs  a  descent  of  about  40  foet  in 
the  distance  of  half  a  mile.  Above  this  point  the  stream  again 
resumes  its  original  character  to  its  head,  near  the  village  of 
Rome,  Oneida  County — the  whole  valley  being  celebrated  for 
.ts  fertility  and  historic  reminiscences. 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC.       65 


HUDSON  RIYEB  STEAMBOATS. 


The  following  list  embraces  all  the  Passage  Boats  built  and  running 
on  the  Hudson  River,  between  New  York,  Albany,  and  Troy,  since  their 
first  introduction  by  Robert  Fulton,  in  the  fall  of  1807 : 

Built.        Name.  Tons.  Commanders.  Bemarki. 

180T.  .Clermont James  Winans Name  changed 

1808.. North  River 160    Samuel  Wiswall  Brolten  up. 

1809 . .  Car  of  Neptune. ...  295  .  A.  H.  Roor^ich Broken  up. 

1811,. Hope  ..   280.  .E.  8.  BunL^i Broken  up. 

1811.. Perseverance 280.  J.  Sherman Broken  up. 

1811 . .  Paragon 881 . .  Andrew  Bartholomew  Sunk  1825. 

1813.. Richmond 870  .Joab  Center Broken  up. 

1815.. Olive  Branch 265.  James  Moore Broken  up. 

1816.  .Ch.  Livingston. . : .  494.  Samuel  Wiswall Coal  barge. 

1823.  .James  Kent 846.  .Thomas  Wiswall Coal  barge. 

1824  .  Hudson 170  .  M.  Bartholomew Broken  up. 

1825  .  Sandusky 289 . .  J.-imes  Penover Tow-bodt. 

1825..  Constitution* 276..  Wm.  J.  Wiswall Now  Indiana 

1825  .Constellation 276.  .Robert  G.  Cruttenden. Tow-barge. 

1825.  .Ch.  Jus.  Marshallt.  800,  .Richard  W.  Sherman. I  osl  in  L.  I.  Soimd. 

1825.  Saratoga 250.  .James  Benson Tow -barge. 

1^26.. Sun  It 280.. H.Drake Burnt,  ISSI. 

1826.  New  Philadelphia.  800.  .George  E.  Seymour. .  .Delaware  River. 
1827..  Albany 89S.  .J.  G.Jenkins Broken  up. 

1827.  .Independence 868. .  Wm.  J.  Wiswall Broken  up. 

1827.  Nortli  America ....  497 . .  Gideon  Lathrop Destr'd  by  ice,  1888L 

1827. .  Victory 290 . . Sanford  Cobb Sunk  in  1845. 

1827.  .Emerald 800.  .Capt.  Ketchum Tow-boat. 

18J8. . De  Witt  Clinton. . .  571 .  .J.Sherman & S.  R.  RoeEng.  in  Knick. 

1829  .Ohio  § 412.  M.  Bartholomew Tow-barge. 

1880..Novehy 477.. Daniel  Pcck|i Broken  up. 

1832 . .  C^jamplain 471 . .  Adolphus  Gorham Tow-barge. 

1882.  Erie 471.. dames  Benson Tow-barge. 

1833.  Helen Henry  Burden Destroyed,  1884. 

1835.  .Robert  L.  Stevens  .  298.  .Joseph  P.  Dean Tow-boat. 

Ib36.  .Rochester 491.  A.  Houghton Laid  up. 

1886.  .Swallow 426.  .Alex.  McLean Wrecked,  Ap.,  184& 

1837 . .  Utica 840 . .  A.  H.  Shultz Laid  up. 

..Belle 480. .G.  B.  Riggs Tow-boat. 

.  Express 288 . .  A.  Hitchcock Sent  South. 

18i)8.. Diamond 898.. A.  Flower  Laid  up. 

1838 .  Kosciusko D.  Haywood T(Mv-boat. 

1&38.  Arrow Capt.  Smith Burnt,  1849. 

1839.  .Balloon 204.  David  Hitchcock Runs  on  Delaware 

1839  .North  America  . . .  494.  .R.  G.  Cruttenden Tow-boat. 

1840 . .  South  America ....  688 .  M.  H.  Truesdell Runs  to  RondouU 

1840.  .Troy 724.  .Adolphus  Gorham. . .  .Laid  up. 

♦  Exploded  her  boilers  in  1826,  killing  three  persons. 

t  Exploded  her  boiler  in  1880,  killing  11  persons. 

X  Built  to  run  as  a  day-boat  between  New  York  and  Albany. 

§  Exploded  her  chimney,  or  due.  in  1882,  killing  five  pergoof* 


^       NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC. 

0nlh.        Vrnme.  Tonii.  Comniandcni.  Remarks. 

1841 .  .Columbia 891 .  .T.  P.  Newbury Runs  to  Hudaon. 

1841..  Rainbow 230.  .Capt  Fury Delaware  River. 

184'.^.. Curtis  Peck Wm.  Peck Jami's  River. 

184  I.  Empire — 936.  ,R.  B.  Miicy Broiien  up. 

1848..  Knickerbocker 868.  .W.  B.  Nelson Runs  to  Albany. 

1846. .  Hero 409    J.  W.  Hancox N.  York  to  Albany. 

1845. . Niagara 780.  .A.  Degroot Tow-boat. 

184  >. .  Rip  Van  Winkle  . .  6 1 0 . .  D.  Haywood New  York  to  Troy. 

h845.  Oregon    1000.. Capt.  St.  John 8unk  in  1868. 

1845     Hendrik  Hudson.. lUO.. Curtis  Peck N.  York  to  Albany. 

18»<5..lHuac  Newton 1750  .Wni.  H.  Peck Burnt  Dec.  6, 1868. 

1848..A'ida 700.  .Capt.  Roe Tow-boat. 

1848.  Commodore 985.  .CW.  Farnhum New  York  to  Troy. 

1850.. Armenia I.  P.  Smith N.  York  to  Albany. 

1850 . . Henry  Clay* Capt.  Talliuan Burnt,  July  27, 1852, 

185  ..Reindeert C.  W.  Farnham Burnt,  Sept.,  1852. 

1850. .  Metamora J.  F.  Tallman 

1851 .. Francis  Skiddy..  ..1100.  .Levi  Smitli New  York  to  Troy. 

Vanderbilt Geo.  H.  Tupper New  York  to  Troy. 

1851 . .  New  World 1750 . .  A.  P.  St.  Jolin Used  as  a  hospital. 

1859 . .  Daniel  Drew John  F.  Tallman  . . . .  N.  York  to  Albany. 

1864    Chauncey  Vibbard        .  .Captain  Hltclicock..  .N.  York  to  Albany. 
1864.. St.  John 2800.. Wm.  H.  Peck, N.  York  to  Albany. 

*  Burnt  to  the  water's  edge  near  Yonkers,  by  which  dreadful  calamity 
about  "0  lives  were  lost. 

t  Exploded  her  boiler  at  Bristol  Landing,  killing  36  persons ;  after- 
irard  destroyed  by  lire. 


Copy  of  an  Advertisement  taken  from  the  Albany  Gazette^ 

dated  September,  1807. 

**The  North  River  Steamboat  will  leave  Pauler's  Hook 
Ferry  [now  Jersey  City]  on  Friday,  the  4th  of  September,  at  9 
in  the  morning,  and  arrive  at  Albany  on  Saturday,  at  9  in  the 
afternoon.  Provisions,  good  berths,  and  accommodations  are 
provided. 

'"  The  charge  to  each  passenger  is  as  follows  : 

To  Newburgh dols.  3.  Time,  14  hourflt 

"  Poughkeepsie "  4.       "      17    " 

«*  Esopus «  6.       «*      20    <* 

.     «'  Hudson «*  5J.      "      30    «« 

*'  Albany "  7.       ^«     36    " 

'*  For  places,  apply  to  Wm.  Vandervoort,  No.  48  Courtlaiidt 
Street,  on  the  corner  of  Greenwich  Street. 
♦*&5j><.2,1807."     .  . 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY,  TROY,  ETC. 


51 1 


THE    CLERMONT. 


"  The  above  is  a  correct  drawing  of  Fulton's  first  American 
Steamboat,  called  the  '  Clkrmont.'  She  was  built  at  the 
shipyard  of  Charles  Brown,  at  the  Dry  Dock,  New  York  city, 
in  the  year  1807.  Omitting  every  thing  in  regard  to  the  diffi- 
culties with  which  Fulton  had  to  contend,  and  the  utter  in- 
credulity of  almost  every  person  until  the  boat  left  the  wharf 
moved  by  steam,  we  will  give  a  short  account  of  her  trial  trip. 

"  Mr.  Livingston  and  Mr.  Fulton  had  invited  many  of  their 
friends  to  witness  the  first  trial,  among  whom  were  those 
learned  men,  Dr.  Mitchell  and  Dr.  McNeven,  to  whom  we  are 
indebted  !or  some  account  of  what  passed  on  this  occasion. 
Nothing  could  exceed  the  surprise  and  admiration  of  all  who 
witnessed  the  experiment.  The  minds  of  the  most  incredulous 
were  changed  in  a  few  minutes.  Before  the  boat  had  made  the 
distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  the  greatest  unbeliever  must 
have  been  converted.  The  man  who,  while  he  looked  on  the 
expensive  machine,  thanked  his  stars  that  he  had  more  wisdom 
than  to  waste  his  money  on  such  idle  schemes,  changed  the  ex- 
pression of  his  features  as  the  boat  moved  from  the  wharf  and 
gained  her  speed,  and  his  complacent  expression  gradually 
stiffened  into  wonder.  The  jeers  of  the  ignorant,  who  had 
noither  sense  nor  feeling  enough  to  suppress  their  contemptuous 
ridicule  and  rude  jokes,  were  silenced  for  a  moment  by  a  vul- 
gar astonishment  which  deprived  them  of  the  power  of  utter- 
ance, till  the  triumph  of  genius  extorted  from  the  increduious 
multitude  which  crowded  the  shore,  shouts  and  acclamations  of 
congratulations  and  applause.  By  reference  to  the  engraving  it 
will  be  seen  that  she  labored  under  a  great  disadvantage  in  having 
the  wheels  hung  on  the  shaft  Avithout  any  outwnrd  support.  This 
is  now  supplied  by  what  are  called  the  wheel-guards."— iS'ci.  Jim 


58  »KW   YORK   TO    ALBANY,    TROY,    ETC. 

HUDSON  RIVER. 

This  beautiful  and  celebrated  stream  was  first  discovered  by 
Hknky  Hudson,  in  1609,  while  in  the  employ  of  the  Dutch 
East  India  Company.  It  rises  from  numerous  sources  on  the 
Adirondack  Mountain  region  of  Essex  and  Hamilton  counties, 
west  of  Lakes  George  and  Champlain.  Its  principal  head 
branches  are  known  as  the  Adirondack  River,  Boreas  River, 
Indian  River,  Schroon  River,  and  the  Sacandaga  River,  while 
the  Mohawk,  rising  in  Oneida  County,  and  flowing  eastward, 
is  its  principal  affluent.  Its  whole  length  is  estimated  at  320 
miles ;  the  tide  flowing  up  for  nearly  half  that  distance,  to 
the  city  of  Troy.  On  the  upper  part  of  this  river,  justly 
celebrated  for  its  varied  and  romantic  beauties,  are  several 
picturesque  falls,  of  which  Baker's  Falls,  Glen's  Falls,  and 
Hadley,  or  Great  Falls,  are  the  most  noted.  In  the  head 
waters  of  the  Hudson,  surrounded  by  mountain  peaks  of  Al- 
pine grandeur,  are  to  be  found  trout,  and  other  tish  of  a  fine 
flavor,  in  great  abundance,  and  in  its  tide  waters  are  taken 
annually  large  quantities  of  shad,  herring,  bass,  sturgeon,  and 
many  other  kinds  of  fish.  From  its  mouth  to  the  city  of 
Hudson,  a  distance  of  116  miles,  it  is  navigable  for  ships  of  a 
large  burthen,  and  to  Albany  and  Troy,  150  miles,  for  steam- 
boats of  a  large  class.  By  means  of  a  lock  and  dam,  vessels 
can  ascend  4  miles  farther  to  the  village  of  Waterford.  When 
we  reflect  that  this  important  river  receives  the  tributary 
waters  of  the  great  western  and  northern  lakes,  by  means  of 
,the  Erie  and  Champlain  canals,  and  then  commingles  with 
the  Atlantic  Ocean,  after  passing  the  "Highlands,"  the  Pali- 
sades, and  through  the  secure  and  spacious  bay  of  New  York, 
well  may  we  give  it  the  appellation  of  the  Noble  Hudson. 

The  Adirondack  Group  of  Mountains,  rising  in  Essex  County 
to  an  altitude  of  6,467  feet  above  the  ocean,  are  much  fre- 
quented by  tourists  fond  of  hunting  and  fishing. 


TOUR  TO  SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  LAKE  GEORGE,  ETC. 


Thkre  are  now  two  or  three  Railroad  Routes  from  Albany 
and  Troy  to  Ballston  Spa  and  Saratoga  Springs. 

Ist.  From  Albany  via  Schenectady,  17  miles ;  from  thence  by 
the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  liailroady  terminating  at  the 
village  of  Saratoga  Springs ;  total  distance,  39  miles. 

2d.  From  Albany  via  Albany  JSTorthern  Railroady  connecting 
with  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad  at  the  Junction^ 
2  miles  above  Waterford ;  from  thence  proceeding  northward  a 
farther  distance  of  26  miles  to  Saratoga  Springs;  making  a 
total  distance  from  Albany,  38  miles. 

3d.  From  Troy  via  Saratoga  and  Rens.'telaer  Railroad,  ter- 
minating at  Ballston  Spa,  25  miles,  there  uniting  with  the  rail- 
road extending  from  Schenectady  to  Saratoga  Springs,  a  farther 
distance  of  7  miles. 

The  above  railroads  afford  the  traveler  a  choice  of  several 
interesting  routes.  There  being  little  difference  of  time  or  ex- 
pense, it  is  well  for  the  tourist  to  go  by  one  route  and  return 
by  another,  thus  changing  the  scenery. 

Mechamcsville,  12  miles  north  of  Troy,  is  the  station 
where  the  cars  running  on  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Rail- 
road leave  the  valley  of  the  Hudson,  diverging  westward  to 
Ballston  Spa,  a  farther  distanrss  of  13  miles. 

Ballston  Spa,  the  county  seat  for  Saratoga  County,  is  an 
old  and  somewhat  celebrated  watering-place.  It  is  situated  in 
a  valley  near  the  Kayaderosseras  Creek,  31  miles  north  of  the 
city  of  Albany,  and  7  mile3  south  of  Saratoga  Springs,  by  rail- 
road route.  It  was  incorporated  in  1807,  and  now  contains 
about,  2,500  inhabitants  ;  a  court-house  and  jail,  one  Presbyte- 
rian, one  Episcopal,  one  Baptist,  one  Methodist,  and  one  Roman 
Catholic  church ;  one  banking-'house,  five  hotels  and  taverns. 
The  Sans  Souci  Hotel  at  this  place,  erected  by  the  late  Nicho- 
las Low,  Esq.,  in  1803,  is  an  old  and  popular  boarding-house, 
delightfully  situated  near  the  center  of  the  Tillage. 


60  SARATOGA.   SPRINGS. 

The  oldest  and  still  the  most  osteeracd  mineral  fountain  is 
known  as  the  "  Public  Well/'  on  the  flat  west  of  the  center  of 
the  village.  It  is  said  to  have  been  first  discovered  by  the 
whites  in  1709,  during  the  survey  and  partition  of  the  Kaya- 
dcrosseras  Patent.  It  issues  from  a  bed  of  stiflf  blue  clay  and 
■gravel.  Besides  the  above  there  arc  several  other  springs  of 
less  note,  possessing  medicinal  properties  of  a  similar  character. 
The  JS'ew  Spring,  also  on  the  flat,  is  of  similar  properties,  and 
evidently  belongs  to  the  same  class  with  those  of  Saratoga 
Springs,  now  so  justly  celeboated. 

Within  a  few  miles  of  Ballston  Spa  are  situated  two  or  three 
lakes,  the  largest  of  which  are  Ballston,  or  Long  Lake,  on 
the  south,  and  Saratoga  Lake  on  the  east;  the  latter  abounds 
with  fish  of  different  kinds. 

I'he  village  of  Sara-toga  Springs,  88  miles  north  of  Albany 
and  40  miles  south  of  Whitehall,  by  railroad  route,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  plain,  surrounded  in  part  by  a  beautiful  grove 
of  pine  trees.  This  is  the  most  noted  watering-place  in  the 
Union,  or  on  the  continent  of  America ;  the  mineral  springs, 
possessing  great  medicinal  properties,  vary  somewhat  in  thc^r 
an.alyses.  although  all  lying  in  a  valley  contiguous  to  each 
other  within  one  mile.  The  village  is  built  chiefly  on  one  broad 
street,  intersected  by  cross  streets:  and  the  numerous  large 
hotels  and  boarding-houses  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors 
give  it  a  lively  and  imposing  appearance,  particularly  when 
thronged  with  fashionable  company,  as  it  usually  is  during  the 
summer  months     Population  about  0,000. 

The  principal  hotels  are  the  United  States  Hotel,  Union  Hall, 
Congress  Hall,  Columbian  Hotel,  American  Hotel,  and  Marvin 
House,  all  being  situated  on  the  main  street  or  avenue  running 
north  and  south.  Other  hotels  and  private  boarding-houses 
are  to  be  found  in  every  direction.  There  are  also  several  pub- 
lic bathing-houses  near  the  Springs,  where  cold  and  warm 
water  and  shower  baths  can  at  all  times  be  obtained. 

The  railroads  aftbrd  a  speedy  communication  between  the 
Springs  and  the  cities  of  Albany  Schenectady,  and  Troy  on  the 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  61 

ionth,  while  the  Sarafoira  and  Whitehall  Railroad  affords  a 
direct  an  I  speedy  route  to  Wliitohall,  Lake  George,  and  Lake 
CUamplain  on  the  north. 

Sara  I  oG A  Minkral  Springs. — These  are  so  well  known  to 
tourists,  and  so  thoroughly  described  in  our  guides  for  travel- 
ers, that  it  is  almost  a  work  of  supererogation  to  repeat  what  is 
said  of  them.  They  are,  without  doubt,  the  most  remarkable 
ohalybeates  in  the  world ;  grateful  and  refreshing  to  the  palate, 
and  remedial  to  invalids  beyond  all  others.  In  Germany  alone 
have  they  any  rivals 

They  become  every  year  the  resort  of  the  most  wealthy,  edu- 
cated, and  refined  Americans  and  foreigners;  and,  unfortu- 
nately, as  a  consequence,  attract  also  those  chevaliers  who  prey 
upon  society,  wherever  it  is  accessible,  lavish  in  its  expendi- 
ture, and  free  in  its  amusements. 

The  accommodations  at  Saratoga  are  very  extensive  and  very 
elegant.  Thousands  of  people  are  entertained  at  the  same 
time,  without  inconvenience. 

The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  beautiful,  extending  on  the 
east  to  Saratoga  Lake  and  the  Hudson  River. 


The  following  Histo?'i/  and  Analyses  of  the  principal  springs 
arc  mostly  copied  from  "  Allen's  Analyses  of  the  Mineral 
Fountains  at  Saratoga  Springs." 

"  High  Rock  Spring. — This  spring  was,  beyond  a  question, 
the  primeval  fountain,  and  the  one  mainly  used  by  the  abori- 
gines. The  other  springs,  if  they  existed  during  the  early 
savage  settlements  about  them,  would  have  been  less  pure,  have 
contained  more  fresh  water,  have  been  more  incorporated  with 
the  vegetable  mold  and  decaying  foliage  of  the  forest  than 
this ;  for  it  is  SO  admirably  secured  by  Nature  against  every 
thing  foreign  to  it.  This  fountain  receives  its  name  from  the 
peculiar  stone  which  incloses  its  mouth. 

'♦  To  this  fountain  the  Indian  resorted  for  relief,  when  labor- 
ing under  disease.  Here  he  brought  his  sick  friends,  and  by 
the  i^e  of  the  water  relieved  them  from  u'sease. 

6 


62  SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

**  For  many  years  aftor  iia  introduotion  to  the  white  man,  it 
was  the  great  source  of  health  to  the  afflicted  among  thorn, 
even  au  much  as  it  had  before  been  to  their  savage  neighbors ; 
and  it  still  retains  its  strength  and  early  purity. 

"  Perhaps  there  is  no  mineral  fountain,  either  here  or  at 
Ballston  Spa,  which  has  been  so  uniform  in  every  particular  as 
this.  Nature  did  for  it  what  man  from  necessity  has  been  com- 
pelled to  do  for  the  other  fountains  here,  viz.,  carefully  to  tube 
it.  And  while  the  artificial  tubes,  and  various  other  improve- 
ments which  from  time  to  time  have  been  made  about  the  other 
fountains,  have  uniformly  been  subject  to  decay,  and  were 
almost  annually  to  bo  renovated,  or  the  several  springs  would 
have  been  lo.st,  this  spring,  having  had  Nature  for  its  architect, 
has  needed  no  repairs. 

♦•  It  is  an  excellent  tonic  water,  and  as  an  alterative,  to  be 
taken  during  the  day  in  small  quantities,  it  is  a  very  valuable 
spring ;  and  many  invalids  every  year  since  it  was  first  visited  by 
Sir  William  Johnson,  can  bear  testimony  to  its  remedial  powers. 

*•  The  temperature  of  this  spring  was  48°,  the  surrounding 
atmosphere  at  0,  and  its  specific  gravity  1.007 ;  and  one  cubio 
gallon  of  the  water,  in  January,  1844,  gave  the  following  in- 
gredients on  analysis : 

Chloride  of  Sodium 190.233  grs 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 62.100 

Carbonate  of  Lime 71.633 

Carbonate  of  Soda 18.421 

Carbonate  of  Iron 4.233 

Hydriodate  of  Soda 2.177 

Silex  and  Alumina 2.500 

Hydro-Bromate  of  Potash ** 

**  Solid  contents  in  one  cubic  gallon .  361. 197 

Carbonic  Acid 831.666 

Aimospheric  Air 2. 

**  Gaseous  contents  in  a  gallon 833.666     . ; 


BARATOOA    BPRINQS.  68 

**  Tlie  oiroumforcnce  of  the  High  Rock  at  the  surface  of  Una 
ground  is  twenty-five  feet. 

**  Circumference  at  the  top,  two  feet  eight  inches. 

**  Diameter  of  tUa  opening  in  its  top,  ten  inches. 

"  Distance  from  the  top  of  the  rock  to  the  water  within.,  if 
two  feet  eleven  inches. 

*<  Height  of  the  column  of  water  within  the  rock  above  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  one  foot. 

'•  Depth  of  the  fountain,  ten  feet. 

"  One  hundred  grains  furnished  the  following  on  analysis : 

Carbonate  of  Lime 41.000  grs. 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 80.106 

Carbonate  of  Iron 13.501 

Silex  and  Alumina 15.333 

100.000 

"  These  substances  vary  very  materially  in  diflferent  parts 
of  the  rock. 

"  Congress  Spring. — This  fountain  was  first  discovered  by  a 
hunting  party,  in  the  summer  of  1792.  One  of  this  party  was 
John  Taylor  Gilmaiiy  who  then  was  or  had  been  a  member  of 
the  United  States  Congress.  Oilman  had  a  brother  who  was 
also  one  of  the  party  at  the  time  of  the  discovery ;  and  the 
credit  of  first  discovering  this  valuable  spring  has  been  award- 
ed to  them.  But  which  of  the  brothers  noticed  it  first  can  not 
be  decided  at  the  present  time,  neither  is  it  important.  It  was 
then  issuing  from  an  aperture  in  a  calcareous  rock,  which  faced 
the  small  stream  of  fresh  water  passing  by  it  to  the  main  brook 
of  the  valley.  This  little  rivulet  receives  the  surplus  water  of 
cur  Saratoga  mineral  springs,  and  passes  via  Owl  Pond,  Sara- 
toga Lake,  and  Fish  Creek,  to  the  Hudson  River. 

"  The  novel  appearance  of  the  spring,  as  it  flowed  from  the 
rock,  attracted  their  attention,  and  induced  them  to  apply  such 
tests  of  its  qualities  as  were  within  their  reach.  After  their 
exaiAination,  they  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  a  very  ex- 


64  SARATOGA    SPRtNOS. 

traordinary  fbuntain,  containing  all  the  constituents  of  the 
other  mineral  springs  here,  and  perhaps  other  qualities  be- 
sides ;  or  at  least  the  same  of  the  otlier  fouu tains  in  larger  or 
different  proportions;  and  in  cither  case,  i*  was  in  all  probabil- 
ity a  very  extraordinary  fountain.  And  as  they  believed  it 
possessed  more  or  less  of  every  constituent  which  enters  into 
the  composition  of  the  other  mineral  fountains  here,  they  ve:y 
appropriately  made  selection  of  that  name  which  it  now  bears, 
viz.,  CoivGRESs  Spring. 

'*  The  temperature  of  the  water  of  this  spring,  as  shown  by 
Fahrenheit's  thermometer,  when  immersed  at  the  bottom  of  the 
well,  is  50  degrees,  and  it  does  not  appear  to  suflFer  any  sensible 
variation  either  during  the  summer  or  winter  months. 

*'  The  specific  gravity  of  the  woter  at  the  temperature  of  60 
deg.,  the  barometer  ranging  at  ti9.5  inches,  is  1009.7,  pure 
water  being  one  thousand.  Excessively  wet,  or  long  seasons  of 
dry  weather,  seem  to  produce  a  slight  variation  from  this  re- 
sult ;  but  repeated  experiments,  made  at  different  periods,  and 
under  various  circumstances  of  season,  etc.,  for  the  space  of 
more  than  twenty  years,  have  in  no  instance  produced  a  devia- 
tion of  more  than  the  0.5  of  a  grain." 

One  gallon,  or  231  cubic  inches,  of  the  water  of  the  Congress 
Spring  contains  the  following  substances,  viz. : 

Chloride  of  Sodium 385.000  grs. 

Hydriodate  of  Soda 3.500 

Bi-carbonate  of  Soda 8.982 

Bi-carbonate  of  Magnesia 95.788 

Carbonate  of  Lime 98.098 

Carbonate  of  Iron 6.075 

Silex 1.500 

Hydro-bromate  of  Potash,  a  trace 000 

Solid  contents  m  a  gallon 597.943  grg. 

Carbonic  Acid  Gas 311  ,  , 

Atmospheric  Air 7 

Gaseous  contents  in  a  gallon 818  cubic  inches. 


SARATOGA   SPRINGS.  65 

The  Empire  Spawo,  situated  in  the  north  part  of  the  vil- 
lage, a  few  rods  above  the  High  Rock  Spring,  is  a  highly  val- 
uable fountain,  possessing  all  the  curative  qualities  of  theso 
most  celebrated  mineral  waters. 

The  grounds  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Empire  Spring  are  sus- 
ceptible of  great  improvement,  which  is  about  being  effected 
"by  the  Saratoga  Empire  Spring  Company.     (Sec  Advertisement.) 

It  was  analyzed  by  Prof.  E.  Emmons  in  1846,  and  found  to 
be  highly  medicinal  in  its  properties. 

The  analysis  of  the  Empire  Water,  by  Prof.  E.  Enmions,  ia 
as  follows : 

Chloride  of  Sodium 269.696  grs. 

Bi-carbonate  of  Lime 141.824 

Bi-carbonate  of  Magnesia 41 .984 

Bi-carbonate  of  Soda 30.848 

Hydriodate  of  Sodp>  jr  Iodine 12  000 

Bi-carbonate  of  Iron,  a  trace 000 

Solid  contents  in  a  gallon 496  352 

Specific  gravity 1.039 

The  following  remarks  are  copied  from  the  American  Journot 
of  Agriculture  and  Science^  and  the  facts  as  stated  in  1846 
have  been  fully  corroborated  by  observation  and  experience  : 

"  The  most  remarkable  fact  brought  out  by  this  analysis  is 
the  presence  of  a  large  quantity  of  Iodine.  We  were  able  to 
detect  it  in  one  ounce  of  the  water.  This  water,  too,  is  mainly 
free  from  iron,  as  tincture  of  nutgalls,  after  standing  twenty- 
four  hours,  produced  merely  a  green  tinge  or  color,  and  the 
salt,  when  evaporated,  is  white,  or  slightly  yellowish  white 
The  spring,  it  seems  to  us,  is  quite  an  accession  to  the  waters 
of  Saratoga.  It  has  a  remarkably  pleasant  saline  taste,  with  a 
pungency  and  liveliness  which  makes  it  agreeable  as  a  bever* 
age. 


tJ6  SARATOGA   SPRINGS. 

pAViiiioif  PouKTAiif. — This  tnily  beautiful  fountain  is  s'ltn- 
ate  in  the  rear  of  the  Columbian  Hotel,  and  a  few  rods  south- 
east of  the  Flat  Rock  Spring.  It  was  long  since  discovered,  and 
experiments  made  upon  the  water  by  the  late  Dr.  J.  H.  Steed. 
Its  remoteness,  however,  from  the  bank  which  gave  egress  to 
the  other  mineral  fountains  in  the  valley,  places  it  in  the  midst 
of  a  deep  morass,  where  it  makes  its  appearance  through  an 
alluvial  deposit  of  some  forty  feet  in  depth. 

This  water  has  been  much  used,  both  at  home  and  abroad, 
since  1840.  The  free  acid  of  the  spring  is  most  abundant,  and 
passes  off  in  great  quantities*  from  the  moutli  of  the  fountain. 
Its  water  is  not  so  heavy  as  that  of  the  Congress  Spring ;  but 
the  liberal  quantities  of  free  gas  which  is  present  impart  to  it, 
when  drank,  a  very  smart,  pungent  taste,  and  induce  many  to 
think  it  the  strongest  water  of  the  valley.  They  form  their 
opinion  from  the  effects  it  produces  on  the  palate  while  drinking 
it.  This  smart,  pungent,  and  grateful  taste,  which  is  so  char- 
acteristic of  all  our  mineral  waters  here,  would  be  enhanced 
by  drinking  them  from  metallic  cups,  instead  of  the  glass  tum- 
blers so  generally  used.  The  reason  is  obvious  to  those  who 
have  studied  the  principles  of  galvanism.     . 

Analysis  of  the  Pavilion  Fotmiain. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 226.58  grs. 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia .     62.50 

Carbonate  of  Lime 60.24 

Carbonate  of  Soda 4.70 

Oxide  of  Iron 3.10 

Iodine  of  Sodium  >  _  __ 

Bromide  of  Potassium  5 

Silica 62 

Alumina  ...,.,, .25 

*'        '  ^        861.74 

Carbonic  Acid  Gas,  cubic  inches ....  480.01 


Atmosphenc  air o.O^ 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  67 

Putnam's  Congress. — This  fountain  is  situated  midway  be- 
tween Broadway  and  Putnam  Street,  and  nearly  opposite  the 
United  States  Hotel.  It  was  discovered  a  long  time  since  by 
Mr.  Lewis  Putnam,  who,  in  1835,  excavated,  tubed,  and  care- 
fully secured  it  from  the  fresh  water,  and  all  other  foreign  sub- 
stances about  it. 

It  is  justly  a  popular  fountain,  and  is  much  used  by  both 
citizens  and  strangers,  many  of  whom  are  particularly  attached 
to  it,  and  use  it  instead  of  the  Congress,  for  cathartic  purposes, 
with  good  success. 

The  water  has  been  vended  in  considerable  quantities  every 
year  since  it  has  been  in  complete  operation. 

In  connection  with  the  spring  is  a  bathing  establishment, 
second  to  no  other  in  the  place  tor  commodious  baths,  large 
rooms,  and  proper  attendants.  This,  as  well  as  the  spring,  ia 
owned  by  Messrs.  Putnam  &  Son,  and  always  subject  to  their 
personal  superintendence. 

Temperature  of  this  spring,  48°. 

Analysis. 

One  gallon  of  the  water  furnished  the  following  constituents, 
on  analysis : 

Chloride  of  Sodium 220.000  gra. 

Carbonate  of  Soda 15.431 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 45.500 

Carbonate  of  Lime 70.483 

Carbonate  of  Iron 7.833 

Hydriodate  of  Soda 2.500 

Bromide  of  Potash ** 

Silex  and  Alumina 1.500 

Solid  contents  in  one  gallon 362.697 

Carbonic  Acid 817.753 

Atmospheric  Air 3.080 

Gaseous  contents  in  a  gallon 820.833 


68 


THE    SARATOGA    SPRING. 

• 

This  new  mineral  fountain  is  situated  a  few  rods  north 
of  the  curious  High  Rock  Spring.  It  was  dug  down  to,  and 
tubed  from,  the  rock  in  April,  1862.  The  water  is  composed 
of  five  distinct  veins  or  jets,  issuing  out  of  five  separate  crev- 
ices in  the  rock  ;  one  of  these  veins  undoubtedly  formed  the 
old  and  well-known  Iodine  Spring — the  other  veins  being 
new.  The  quality  of  the  water  as  a  beverage,  and  its  virtues 
of  a  medicinal  character,  are  conceded  by  all  who  have  tested 
its  merits.  The  verdict  of  the  thousands  of  visitors  and  cit- 
izens who  have  used  it  has  been  so  uniform  in  its  favor,  that 
the  proprietors  feel  not  the  least  h(;sitat:on  in  claiming,  that 
as  a  Cathartic,  a  Diuretic,  and  a  Tonic,  it  is  unequaled  ;  while 
in  other  respects  it  is  not  excelled  by  the  most  popular  and 
celebrated  mineral  waters  of  the  world. 

Southern  Depot  for  the  sale  of  the  above  mineral  water,  68 
Barclay  Street,  New  York. 


Saratoga  Lake^  four  miles  east  of  Saratoga  Springs,  is  a 
place  of  great  resort  during  the  summer  months.  A  large 
public  house  is  situated  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake,  from 
whence  a  small  steamer  runs  to  the  White  Sulphur  Spring, 
some  seven  or  eight  miles,  affording  a  delightful  excursion. 
Boating  and  fishing  parties  are  also  accommodated  with  facil- 
ities for  aquatic  sports. 


PRINCIPAL  HOTELS  IN  SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 

American  Hotel Richard  McMichael  ....  Broadway. 

Clahendon  Hotel Samuel  L.  White Broadway. 

Columbian  Hotel U.  N.  Benedict Broadway. 

Congress  Hall Hathorn  &  McOmber  .  ..Broadway. 

Continental  Hotel.  . .  Washington  St. 

Marvin  House A.  &  D.  Snyder Broadway. 

Union  Hall W.  W.  Leland  &  Co.  . .  .Broadway. 

United  States  Hotel.J.  M.  Marvin  &  Co Broadway. 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS.  •  M 

Tent  Springs. — About  a  mile  from  the  High  Rock  Spring,  in 
an  eastern  direction,  are  situated  the  Ten  Springs^  so  called 
from  the  circumstance  of  there  being  that  number  located  near 
together.  They  never  have  acquired  much  celebrity,  and  it  ifl 
probable,  from  their  proximity  to  others  so  distinguished,  that 
they  Avill  never  ris    into  much  consequence. 

White  Sulphur  Spring. — This  spring  is  situated  on  the 
east  side  of  Saratoga  Lake,  about  half  a  mile  south  of  Snake 
Hill.  Its  location  is  in  a  beautiful  ravine,  in  the  middle  of 
which  runs  a  tine  little  stream  of  fresh  water,  and  a  few  roda 
east  of  the  fountain  it  falls  into  the  lake.  As  the  ravine  ap- 
proximates the  shore  of  the  lake  it  widens  a  little,  and  the  south 
bank  particularly  rises  very  abruptly  to  the  height  of  some  35 
or  40  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  brook. 

Within  some  twenty  rods  of  the  lake  shore  a  deep  niche  is 
formed  in  the  south  bank,  somewhat  in  the  form  of  a  horse- 
shoe. The  bank  here  is  almost  perpendicular  with  its  base,  but 
a  little  elevated  above  the  brook,  which  is  within  a  few  feet  of 
the  main  bank  of  the  ravine.  At  the  base  of  this  high  bank, 
and  at  the  center  of  the  horse- shoe,  passes  out  this  sulphur 
spring,  and  its  course  to  the  brook  is  marked  by  the  white  sul- 
phur which  is  deposited.  « 

The  temperature  of  this  spring  is  48°,  barometer  at  30**,  and 
the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  at  zero. 

Its  specific  gravity  is  1000.6. 

Sulphureted  Hydrogen 0.6 

Atmospheric  Air 4.0 

Silex  and  Alumina,  three  grains  to  the  gallon. 

The  Quaker  Springs,  situated  about  10  miles  in  a  southeast 
direction  from  Saratoga  Springs,  in  the  town  of  Saratoga,  are 
of  some  celebrity.     They  contain  lime,  magnesia,  and  iron,  held 
in  solution  by  carbonic  acid,  and,  like  the  others  in  the  county 
they  likewise  contain  a  portion  of  common  salt  and  soda. 

I'he  other  springs  of  less  note  are  the  Flat  Rock^  Hamilton^ 
Columbian y  and  Washington  Spring. 


70  ,  SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

On  leaying  Saratoga  Springs  for  Whitehall,  40  miles,  or  Lake 
George,  29  miles,  the  northern  route  is  continued  by  Sara- 
toga  and  Whitehall  Railroad.  If  the  traveler  is  destined  for 
Lake  George,  the  cars  are  left  at  Moreau  Station »  15  miles 
above  Saratoga  Springs,  where  stages  will  be  found  in  readi- 
ness to  transport  passengers  over  a  good  plank  road  to  Glen's 
FallSy  6  miles,  and  from  thence  to  Caldwell y  9  miles  farther. 
Here  are  situated  two  large  and  popular  hotels,  affording  every 
accommodation  that  may  be  desired  ;  also,  other  luxuries  that 
money  alone  can  not  purchase,  viz.,  good  mountain  air,  pure, 
wholesome  water,  and  delicious  fish  of  diflferent  kinds,  such  as 
ought  to  satisfy  any  **  gourmand  or  faster"  who  has  long  been 
waiting  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  partaking  of  the  finely-flavored 
trout  of  Lake  Horicon  or  its  tributaries. 

Passengers  bound  for  Whitehall,  Rutland,  Burlington,  Platts- 
burgh,  or  Montreal,  proceed  north  from  Moreau  Station  or  Fort 
Edward,  situated  on  the  Hudson  River,  direct  to  the  former 
place.  At  Whitehall  the  railroad  route  diverges  east  toward 
Rutland  and  Boston,  while  steamers  of  a  large  class  run  twice 
daily  on  Lake  Champlain,  leaving  Whitehall  morning  and 
evening. 

For  a  further  description  of  Lake  George  and  Lake  Cham- 
plaih,  see  pages  197  and  201. 


« 


•  *« 


WESTERN    TOUR, 


ROUTES  FEOM  ALBANY  AND  TROY  TO  BUFFALO,  NIAGARA 

FALLS,  ETa 

The  first  link  of  the  great  chain  of  railroads  connecting  the 
navigable  waters  of  the  Hudson  with  Lake  Erie  is  the  Albany 
and  Schenectady  Railroad^  now  forming  a  part  of  the  great 
JVVm»  York  Central  Railroad.  It  was  one  of  the  first  constructed 
railroads  in  this  State,  the  company  having  been  chartered  in 
1826.  It  extends  from  Albany  to  Schenectady,  17  miles,  and 
passes  over  a  tract  of  sandy  land,  covered  nearly  the  whole  dis- 
tance with  a  thick  growth  of  stunted  pines. 

Tlie  Schtnectady  and  Troif  Railroad,  alsf  ''orming  part  of  tho 
New  York  Central,  extends  from  the  city  of  Ti'oy  to  the 
city  of  Schenectady,  on  a  line  of  20  miles  in  length,  and 
making,  with  the  other  road,  two  lines  of  travel  diverging  from 
the  tide  waters  of  the  Hudson,  in  addition  to  the  Erie  Canal, 
This  road  fi'om  Troy  inclines  to  the  north,  running  parallel 
with  the  Mohawk  River,  and  is  remarkable  for  the  variety  and 
beauty  of  its  scenery.  This  road  also  now  forms  a  part  of  the 
J\ew  York  Central  Railroad. 

The  City  of  Schenectady,  16  miles  west  of  Albany,  is 
handsomely  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  at  the 
true  commencement  of  the  celebrated  valley  of  that  river. 
This  is  an  ancient  place,  having  been  settled  as  early  as  1620, 
by  the  Dutch,  ma  ay  of  whose  living  descendants  reside  in  the 
dwellings  of  their  ancestors,  and  retain  many  of  their  primitive 
habits.  This  place  was  called  by  the  Indians  Schagh-nactaa- 
da,  signifying,  in  their  language,  **  beyond  the  pine  plainsj" 
During  the  old  French  and  Indian  wars,  Feb.  9,  1690,  it  waa 
taken  by  surprise  in  the  dead  of  night,  was  sacked  and  burnod 
by  the  Indians ;  a  great  number  of  its  inhabitants  were  massa- 
ored,  and  others  carried  away  into  captivity     It  was  chartere<S  ' 


72  WESTERN    TOUR. 

ft8  a  city  in  1798,  and  in  1800  contained  9,579  inhabitants. 
Few  inland  towns  present  a  more  thronged  thoroughfare  than 
Schenectady.  In  addition  to  the  Erie  Canal,  which  passes 
through  the  center  of  the  city,  here  diverge  three  important 
railroads.  Besides  those  already  mentioned,  there  is  the  Sara- 
toga and  Schenectady  Railroad^  running  to  Ballston  Spa  and 
to  Saratoga  Springs,  21J  miles. 

The  public  buildings,  dwellings,  and  stores  in  Schenectady 
present  a  plain  appearance,  perfectly  in  keeping  with  the  gene- 
ral character  of  the  place.  There  are  several  well-kept  hotels, 
afTording  every  desirable  accommodation  for  the  traveler,  if  in- 
clined to  tarry  for  business  or  pleasure.  The  place  derives  its 
most  extended  celebrity  from  being  the  seat  of  Union  College, 
situated  on  the  elevated  ground  about  half  a  mile  east  of  the 
compact  part  of  the  city.  This  institution  wa3  incorporated  in 
1796,  and  derived  its  name  from  the  fact  that  its  founders  were 
members  of  different  denominations,  and  proffered  its  advan- 
tages indiscriminately  to  the  followers  of  every  faith.  The 
buildings  consist  of  one  stone  and  two  brick  edifices,  containing 
accommodations  for  the  president  and  professors  and  their 
families ;  two  chapels,  lecture  and  library  rooms,  four  halls  for 
the  meeting  of  literary  societies,  and  dormitories  for  students, 
of  whom  there  are  usually  from  200  to  300,  from  every  section 
of  the  country.  Attached  to  the  institution  are  about  250 
acres  of  land,  appropriated  in  part  to  groves  for  recreation  and 
health.  These  are  distinguished  for  beauty  of  feature  and  situ- 
ation,  and  present  great  capability  for  improvement.  The  an- 
nual commencement  takes  place  on  the  fourth  Wednesday  of 
July,  after  which  there  is  a  vacation  of  six  weeks. 

On  leaving  Schenectady  for  Saratoga  Springs  and  for  Utica, 
the  railroad  tracks  cross  the  Erie  Canal  and  Mohawk  River  by 
Bubstantial  bridges.  If  bound  for  the  Springs,  you  proceed 
northward  through  an  interesting  region,  passing  on  the  way 
the  village  of  Ballston  Spa,  an  old  and  celebrated  place  of  re- 
aort,  and  the  terminus  of  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Rail' 
road,  which  comes  up  from  Troy.    If  bound  to  the  West,  your 


•  »"'.'r-     •*■  y  ••   •>•    '1"!   •  l>. 

WESTERN   TOUR,  73 

roate  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk,  and  your  first  halt  if 
at  the  village  of 

Amsterdam,  15  miles  from  Schenectady,  and  connected  by 
a  toll-bridge  with  Port  Jackson,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  Amsterdam  contains  about  2,500  inhabitants,  and  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  are  annually  quarried  large  quautitiea 
of  a  fine  quality  of  limestone,  much  used  for  the  construction 
of  looks  and  other  public  works. 

Stages  leave  Amsterdam  daily  for  the  Fish  House,  on  the 
Sacondaga  River,  and  for  other  places  to  the  north  in  Fulton 
County.  One  or  two  miles  west  of  Amsterdam,  on  the  line  of 
the  railroad,  are  situated  two  of  the  old  stone  mansions  of  the 
Johnson  family,  who  figured  largely  in  the  early  history  of  thb 
part  of  the  country. 

Fonda,  a  pleasant  village  of  recent  date,  and  the  county  seat 
of  Montgomery  County,  is  42  miles  by  railroad  from  Albany. 
It  stands  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk,  and  opposite  the 
village  of  Fultonville,  on  the  Erie  Canal. 

Johnstown,  the  county  seat  of  Fulton  County,  lies  4  miles 
north  of  the  Mohawk  River,  and  45  miles  from  Albany.  This 
is  an  old  and  interesting  place,  containing  about  J  ,700  inhabit- 
ants. It  was  originally  founded  by  Sir  William  Johnson,  whose 
residence,  built  of  limestone,  is  still  standing  about  one  mile 
west  of  the  village.  A  daily  line  of  stages  runs  from  Johns- 
town to  Fonda,  connecting  with  the  cars  on  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral Railroad. 

Spraker's  Basin,  on  the  line  of  the  Erie  Canal,  is  36  miles 
from  Schenectady.  Here  is  located  a  thriving  settlement,  con- 
taining a  church  and  some  30  or  40  dwellings.  ^ 

Palatine  Bridge,  54  miles  from  Albany,  connects  with  the 
village  of  Canajoharie,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk 
River.  Canajoharie  was  incorporated  in  1829,  and  now  con- 
tains about  1 ,500  inhabitants.  The  Erie  Canal  passes  through 
the  center  of  the  village.  Stages  leave  this  place  daily,  during 
the  summer  season,  for  Sharon  Sulphur  Springs  and  Coopers- 
town. 

f 


74  WESTERN    TOUR. 

Sharon  Springs,  some  8  or  10  miles  south  of  Canajoharie, 
and  45  miles  west  of  Albany,  via  the  Cherry  Valley  turnpike, 
being  55  miles  by  railroad,  via  Palatine  Bridge,  has  become  a 
place  of  great  resort  for  health  and  pleasure.  The  rides  in  the 
Ticinity ;  the  numerous  villages ;  extensive  views ;  neighboring 
caves,  and  romantic  scenery,  together  with  the  delightful  fish- 
ing in  Otsego  Lake,  are  among  the  many  attractions  offered  to 
those  seeking  in  the  heat  of  summer  either  health  or  pleasure. 
Her*  are  6  or  6  first-class  Hotels  for  the  accommodation  of 
visitors,  being  usually  thronged  with  guests  during  the  summer 
^months. 

These  healthful  fountains  possess  powerful  attractions  for  the 
seekers  of  health,  of  pure  air,  and  of  splendid  natural  scenery. 
The  springs  are  highly  medicinal,  and  exceedingly  pleasant 
and  grateful,  because  the  water  is  very  cold  when  first  taken 
from  the  fountain.  Magnesia  is  the  prevailing  medicinal  in- 
gredient in  one  spring,  and  sulphur  in  the  other. 

The  country  around  the  Springs,  and  the  Springs  themselves, 
are  elevated  900  feet  above  the  Mohawk  River,  from  which 
they  are  distant  about  eight  miles.  The  elevation  is  achieved 
by  a  gradual  ascent  throughout  the  whole  of  this  distance.  A 
traveler  who  leaves  the  city  of  New  York  in  the  evening  boat 
for  Albany,  may  take  breakfast  in  that  city  the  next  morning, 
and  then  place  himself  in  a  railroad  car,  which  will  convey 
him  to  Schenectady,  and  up  the  romantic  valley  of  the  Mohawk, 
to  Palatine  Bridge.  There  he  takes  a  post-coach,  and,  availing 
himself  of  a  plank  road  most  of  the  way,  is  set  down  at  the 
Springs  before  1  o'clock,  p.m.  Fare  from  Albany,  $1  10  in 
car,  and  $1  in  post-coach. 

Arrived  •at  the  Springs,  he  vt^ill  find  a  number  of  houses  for 
the  temporary,  and  always  very  agreeable,  accommodation  of 
travelers  or  boarders.  The  oldest  and  most  conspicuous  of  these 
is  the  **  Pavilion*'  kept  by  Mr.  Gardiner.  This  house  being 
very  large,  will  accommodate  some  three  hundred  persons,  and 
it  is  kept  in  a  style  of  elegance  and  luxury  unsurpassed  at  any 
watering'place  in  the  country.     The  site  of  the  house,  and 


WESTERN    TOUR.  75 

piozsa  in  front,  command  a  most  extensive  and  rariegated 
prospect  of  the  country  for  many  miles  around  in  the  vicinity. 
Tlie  house  next  in  importance  is  kept  by  Mr.  S.  Eldridgo,  and 
called  the  "  Eldridge  House."  It  is  nearer  to  the  Springs  than 
the  •'  Pavilion,"  and  the  charges  for  board  are  more  moderate, 
although  the  house  is  extremely  well  provided. 

The  pure,  clear  waters  of  these  springs,  greatly  resembling 
those  of  the  "White  Sulphur  Springs  of  Virginia,  have  been 
proved  to  be  highly  efficacious  in  rheun^atic,  cutaneous,  and 
dyspeptic  complaints,  and,  in  some  respects,  possess  medicinal 
and  healing  properties  unsurpassed,  and  believed  to  be  im- 
equaled,  in  the  United  States  or  Canada. 


CooPERSTOWN,  although  oflF  from  the  great  line  of  travel, 
east  and  west,  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  It  is  66  miles  west  of 
the  city  of  Albany,  by  stage  route,  and  most  delightfully 
situated  on  a  plain  at  the  outlet  of  Otsego  Lake,  this  being  the 
c^ief  source  of  the  Susquehanna  River.  No  inland  village  in 
the  Union  probably  excels  Cooperstown  in  elegance  of  situation 
and  beauty  of  surrounding  scenery.  Qtsego  Lake,  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  is  a  most  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  abound- 
ing in  trout  and  bass,  celebrated  for  their  peculiar  flavor. 

Richfield  Springs,  69  miles  from  Albany,  is  situated  near 
the  head  of  Canaderaga  Lake.  There  are  also  three  or  four 
well-kept  hotels  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors. 

Richfield  Sulphur  Springs  are  some  1,800  feet  above  tide 
water,  in  a  valley  south  of  the  Mohawk,  amidst  surrounding 
mountains,  about  70  miles  west  of  Albany,  13  south  of  Her- 
kimer, in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  beautiful  lakes  of 
Otsego  and  Schuyler ;  in  fact,  there  are  five  lakes,  abounding 
with  fish,  within  one  hour's  ride  of  the  American  Hotel,  kepi 
by  Wm.  P.  Johnson. 

Visitors  will  always  find  private  conveyances  at  Herkimer 
Station,  on  the  line  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  Railroad,  or  they  can 
ftvail  themselves  of  the  daily  stages  which  convey  the  mail  to 


76  WESTERN    TOUR. 

Richfield  Springs,  so  that  parties  visiting  the  Springs  can  leare 
the  city  of  New  York  in  the  eyening  bouts,  and  rea.ch  the 
Springs  on  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  and  those  leaviog  il 
by  morning  oars  reach  it  on  the  same  day. 


Fort  Plain,  57  miles  from  Albany  by  railroad  route,  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  Hiver,  is  situated  on  the  line  of 
the  Erie  Canal.  It  was  incorporated  in  1834,  and  now  con- 
tains about  1,500  inhabitants.  A  daily  line  of  stages  runs  from 
this  place  to  Cherry  Valley,  Cooperstown,  and  Sharon  Springs, 
in  Schoharie  County. 

Saint  Johnsville,  63  miles  from  Albany,  and  31  from 
Utica.  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk,  on  the  line 
of  the  New  York  Central  Railroad ;  it  contains  about  300 
inhabitants.  The  railroad  cars  usually  stop  hero  a  suflBcient 
time  to  enable  passengers  to  obtain  refreshments.  * 

East  Canada  Creek  enters  the  Mohawk  River  3  miles  west 
of  St.  Johnsville.  This  stream,  for  a  considerable  distance, 
forms  the  boundary  line  between  the  counties  of  Montgomery 
and  Herkimer  ' 

Little  Falls,  Ilerlumcr  County,  is  situated  on  both  sides 
of  the  Mohawk,  73  miles  west  of  the  city  of  Albany.  It  was 
first  incorporated  in  1811,  and  amended  in  1827;  it  now  con- 
tains about  4,000  inhabitants  and  400  dwelling-houses.  The 
Mohawk  River  here  falls,  in  the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  about 
42  feet,  affording  hydraulic  power  to  a  large  extent,  only  a 
small  portion  of  which  is  at  present  occupied  for  manufacturing 
purposes.  * 

This  place  and  vicinity  is  justly  celebrated  for  its  wild  and 
romantic  scenery,  and  is  much  resorted  to  by  the  admirers  of 
nature  and  art.  The  gap  between  the  mountains,  through 
which  the  river  has  apparently  worn  for  itself  a  passo.^e, 
though  confined,  is  still  of  breadth  sufficient  to  afford  room  for 
A  large  town.  The  rock  at  the  river  bed  is  primitive  granitic 
gneiss,  very  bard,  bat  is  readily  quarried  and  broken  into 


WESTERN    TOUR.  77 

baild)n(c  ntone.  Abore  this,  on  the  mountain  sides,  lies  the 
Band  nxjk,  and  still  higher,  at  the  top,  are  extensive  bods  of 
blue  limestone,  great  quantities  of  which  have  been  used  in 
constructing  the  locks,  and  for  building,  for  coping,  and  for 
flagging.  Through  this  gorge  passes  the  Erie  Canal,  on  the 
soutli  side  of  the  river,  nnd  the  Utica  and  Schenectady  Hail- 
road  and  the  Mohawk  turnpike  on  the  north.  It  is  the  gateway 
tlj rough  which  the  product  and  travel  of  the  vast  West  must,  of 
necessity,  pass  to  tide  water.  An  aqueduct  crosses  the  Mohawk, 
at  this  place,  communicating  with  a  feeder  on  the  north  side  of 
tlie  river,  and  is  a  fine  specimen  of  masonry.  A  daily  line  of 
stages  runs  between  Little  Falls  and  Trenton  Falls,  and  several 
mail  routes  north  and  south  branch  off  at  this  place. 

West  Canada  Creek  enters  the  Mohawk  River  6  milea 
west  of  Little  Falls.  Its  whole  length  is  about  GO  miles  from 
its  sources,  in  the  wilds  of  Hamilton  County.  It  is  a  romantic 
and  lovely  stream,  and  abounds  with  fine  trout.  About  20 
miles  from  its  mouth  are  situated  Trenton  Falls,  being  on  the 
border  of  the  town  of  the  same  name  in  Oneida  County. 

The  village  of  Herkimer,  79  miles  from  Albany,  is  hand- 
somely situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk,  on  the  north  side 
of  the  river.  It  was  iixcorporated  in  1807,  and  now  contains 
about  1,200  inhabitants,  150  dwelling-houses,  a  new  brick 
court-house,  and  stone  jail,  built  on  an  improved  model,  com- 
bining security  and  comfort  to  the  prisoners.  Here  is  a  flour- 
ing mill,  containing  four  run  of  stone,  situated  on  a  hydraulic 
canal,  which  is  fed  by  the  waters  of  the  West  Canada  Creek. 
It  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  has  two  fulls,  one  of  22 
feet,  and  another  of  16  feet,  affording  water-power  sufiicient  to 
propel  upward  of  100  run  of  stone,  most  of  which  is  unoccupied. 

The  village  of  Mohawk,  situated  on  the  8(  ith  side  of  the 
river,  one  mile  west  of  Herkimer,  is  a  thriving  place  of  busi- 
ness, through  which  passes  the  Erie  Canal. 

The  village  of  Frankfort,  9  miles  east  of  Utica,  is  also 
situated  on  the  line  of  the  Erie  Canal,  and  contains  about  500 
ioliabitants. 

7* 


78  WESTERN   TOUR. 

The  City  of  TTtica,  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Mohawk  River,  is  on  the  site  of  old  J^hrt  Schuyler,  96  miles 
west  of  the  city  of  Albany.  It  was  chartered  in  1832,  and  ie 
now  divided  into  seven  wards,  and  governed  by  a  common 
council,  consisting  of  a  mayor  and  14  aldermen.  In  1860  it 
contained  22,529  inhabitants,  about  2,500  dwelling-houses,  4 
Presbyterian  churches,  1  Reformed  Dutch,  4  Episcopal.  4  Bap- 
tist, 3  Methodist,  2  Roman  Catholic,  and  1  African  church, 
and  1  Friends'  meeting-house;  1  Protestant  and  1  Catholic 
orphan  asylum;  5  banking  houses  and  2  savings*  banks;  1 
mutual  insurance  company  ;  2  incorporated  academies,  one  for 
males  and  the  other  for  females;  a  museum  located  in  the 
Exchange  building;  10  hotels  and  taverns,  besides  several 
private  boarding-houses ;  2  extensive  steam  woolen  factories ; 
1  large  steam  cotton  factory,  and  1  screw  factory  -all  recently 
erected. 

The  JVew  York  State  Lunatic  Asylum,  situated  on  some- 
what elevated  ground,  about  one  mile  west  of  the  center  of 
Utica,  is  a  noble  and  imposing  structure.  The  finished  build- 
ing can  accommodate  upward  of  600  patients  This  humane 
establishment  is  calculatid  for  the  reception  of  all  insane  per- 
sons in  the  State,  whose  friends  or  county  authorities  may 
apply  in  their  behalf. 

In  addition  to  the  Erie  Canal,  which  passes  through  the  cen- 
ter of  the  city,  the  Chenango  Canal  commences  at  this  place, 
and  terminates  at  Binghamton,  in  Broome  County. 

Utica  and  Black  River  Railroad. — This  road  is  now  fin- 
ished from  the  city  of  Utica  to  Boone ville,  35  miles.  When 
completed  it  will  extend  to  Philadelphia,  Jefferson  Co.,  a  dis- 
tance of  H6  miles,  connecting  at  the  latter  place  with  the 
Rmne,  Watertown,  and  Ogdemburgh  Railroad.  Passenger  cars 
leave  Utica  twice  daily  for  Booneville,  passing  near  Trenton 
Falls,  situated  1 6  miles  north  of  Utica.  Stages  run  from  Boone- 
ville to  Carthage  and  Watertown  on  the  arrival  of  the  trains. 

The  Utica  and  Clinton  Railroad  extends  from  Utica  to 
Clinton,  9  miles  southward.  ,: ,, 


WESTERN   TOUR.  79 

The  principal  hotels  in  Utica  are  chiefly  situated  on  Genesee 
Street,  of  which  tlie  following  are  the  most  noted  :  Baggs'  Hotel 
or  Bleecker  House,  American  Hotel,  and  Central  Hotel. 


Trexton  Fat,l8,  15  miles  northeast  from  Utica  by  railroad 
and  stage,  situated  on  the  West  Canada  Creek,  in  the  town  of 
Trenton,  are  among  the  most  remarkable  scenes  in  our  coun 
try.  The  wild,  secluded,  and  primeval  aspect  of  the  place 
serves  greatly  to  heighten  the  eifect  of  the  striking  spectacle 
presented  by  the  stream;  and  the  whole  is  so  deeply  embosom- 
ed in  the  primitive  forest  that  no  token  of  the  long  and  deep 
gorge  through  which  the  waters  rush  is  visible  till  you  are  on 
its  very  brink.  Within  a  distance  of  about  two  miles  there  are 
no  less  than  six  distinct  cascades,  interchanging  with  rapids  as 
picturesque  as  the  falls  themselves. 

The  first  fall,  beginning  up  stream,  is  called  the  Upper 
Falls,  and  has  a  descent  of  about  feet.  The  river  tlien 
dashes  along  its  rocky  bed  about  a  mile,  with  a  descent,  in 
that  distance,  of  about  20  feet  more,  to  the  second  falls,  called 
The  Cascades.  A  little  farther  down  you  come  to  the  third 
fall,  called  the  Mill-dam,  from  the  regularity  and  smoothness 
of  the  ledge  of  rock,  about  20  feet  h:gh,  over  which  the  waters 
'p'*ur.  About  40  rods  more  bring  you  to  the  High  Falls.  At 
this  place  the  volume  of  the  stream  is  separated,  by  rifts  iu 
the  rock,  into  three  distinct  cataracts,  having  a  perpenlicular 
pitch  of  more  than  100  feet.  Here  the  chasm  has  become  very 
deepi,  and  the  high  wooded  banks  and  cliflFs  of  bare  rock  on 
each  side  combine  with  the  cataracts  to  make  a  spectacle  of 
wild  and  savage  grandeur.  About  70  rods  farther  down  yok 
come  to  the  fifth,  or  Sherman's  Falls,  having  a  descent  of 
nearly  40  feet,  from  the  foot  of  which  the  stream  pours  along  a 
less  rapidly  descending  bed  to  the  sixth,  or  Conrad's  Falls,  a 
pitch  of  some  15  or  20  feet,  and  soon  after  the  river,  escaping 
from  the  deep  and  dark  ravine,  flows  onward  between  mor© 
Bunny  buuks  and  through  a  softer  landscape. 


I 


WESTERN    TOUR.  .  ,81 

The  chasm,  for  the  whole  distance,  is  cut  through  a  vast 

• 

mass  of  lime-rock,  which  abounds  with  organic  remains ;  and 
the  path  which  the  tourist  must  take,  if  he  would  obtain  any 
adequate  conceptions  of  the  scene,  is  along  a  narrow  shelf  of 
rock  near  the  foot  of  the  high  and  in  some  places  overhanging 
precipice,  and  on  the  immediate  verge  of  rushing  waters. 
This  shelf  is  so  narrow  in  several  places,  and  so  perilous,  that 
it  has  been  found  necessary  to  guard  it  with  a  chain  supported 
by  iron  standard^ let  into  the  rock;  though,  sad  to  say,  this 
safe-guard  was  not  furnished  till  two  interesting  young  females 
had  been  lost  in  the  terrible  flood.  The  entire  descent  of  the 
stream,  from  the  top  of  the  Upper  Falls  to  the  foot  of  Conrad's 
Falls,  is  stated  at  312  feet. 

Trenton  Falls  Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  Moore,  is  a  place  of  great 
and  fashionable  resort. 


The  village  of  Whitesborough,  4  miles  west  of  Utica,  is 
situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  JRiver.  This  is  one 
of  the  oldest  white  settlements  in  this  section  of  country,  and 
has  long  been  celebrated  as  a  pleasant  and  attractive  place  of 
residence,  being  surrounded  by  fertile  lands  settled  by  an  in- 
telligent and  wealthy  community.  It  was  incorporated  in 
1813,  and  now  contains  about  1,200  inhabitants,  many  of 
whom  are  engaged  in  manufacturing  pursuits. 

Oriskany,  7  miles  west  of  Utica,  is  a  large  manufacturing 
place,  situated  on  the  Oriskany  Creek,  near  its  junction  with 
the  Mohawk  River.  It  contains  about  1,000  inhabitants,  200 
dwelling-houses,  2  churches,  4  public  houses,  4  stores,  and  2 
large  factory  buildings,  belonging  to  the  "  Oriskany  Manufac- 
turing Company,"  which  annually  manufacture  into  broad 
cloths  and  cassimeres  about  200,000  pounds  of  wool,  giving 
employment  to  about  150  n  3n,  women,  and  children.  The 
buildings,  grounds,  and  machinery  of  this  establishment  cost 
about  $200,000. 


82  WESTEUN    TOUR. 

It  was  here  that  the  battie  of  Oriskany  was  fought,  one  of 
the  bloodiest,  in  proportion  to  the  numbcra  engaged,  during 
the  whole  war  of  our  Revolution,  and  in  whicli  Gen.  Herkimer, 
of  German  Flats,  lost  his  life.     He  was  on  liis  way,  with  about 
800  of  the  militia  of  the  Mohawk  Valley,  to  the  relief  of  the 
garrison  at  Fort  Stanwix,  when  at  Oriskany  a  deadly  fire  was 
opened  on  him  and  his  corps,  by  a  body  of  British  regulars, 
tories,  and  Indians,  from  an  ambuscade  ^n  a  narrow  ravine. 
The  Americans  were  completely  surrounded,  but  the  gallant 
Herkimer  and  his  brave  compatriots  maintained  the  fight  for 
near  six  hours.     Herkimer  received  his  mortal  wounds  early 
in  the  fight,  but  he  kept  the  field,  seated  on  his  saddle  placed 
on  a  hillock,  which  gave  him  a  view  of  the  contest,  and  from 
which  he  calmly  issued  his  orders  to  the  last.     This  was  on  the 
6th  of  August,  1777. 

The  village  of  Rome,  14  miles  west  of  Utica,  is  situated  near 
the  head  waters  of  the  Mohawk,  and  on  the  line  of  the  Erie 
Canal,  where  it  is  intersvicted  by  the  Black  River  Canal. 
Here  commences  the  Watertoum  and  Rome  Railroad,  extend- 
ing to  Cape  Vincent,  97  miles.  The  village  was  incorporated 
in  1819,  and  is  a  half-shire  town  with  Whitesborough  for 
Oneida  County;  it  contains  about  8,000  inhabitants,  800  dwell- 
ing-houses, a  court-house  and  jail,  and  other  public  buildings. 
This  place  stands  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Stanwix,  which  wag 
an  important  military  post  during  the  K  evolutionary  and 
French  wars.  Owing  to  its  natural  and  artificial  advantages, 
this  village  is  fast  increasing  in  wealth  and  numbers. 

Oneida  Depoi',  27  miles  west  of  Utica,  and  26  from  Syra- 
cuse, is  a  new  and  thriving  settlement,  where  the  train  of  pas- 
senger cars  usually  stops  some  10  or  15  minutes.  One  or 
two  miles  south  of  the  depot  is  the  incorporated  village  of 
Onkida  Castle,  near  which  resides  a  remnant  of  the  Oneida 
tribe  of  Indians,  numbering  about  300  souls. 

VVampsville,  3  miles  farther  west,  is  a  small  settlement, 
through  which  passes  the  Syracuse  and  Utica  Railroad. 

Canastota,  32^  miles  west  of  Utica,  by  railroad,  and  <m 


WESTERN   TOUR.  83 

the  Erie  Canal,  was  incorporated  in  1835,  and  now  containa 
about  1,000  inhabitants.  '\ 

Chittenango,  39  miles  west  of  Utica,  by  railroad,  is  situ- 
ftted  one  mile  south  of  the  Erie  Canal,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  a  side-cut.  It  contains  about  1,000  inhabitants,  180 
dwelling-houses,  3  churches,  3  taverns,  10  stores,  1  woolen 
factory,  1  flouring  mill,  and  2  large  factories  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  water-lime,  which  is  found  in  this  vicinity,  and  is  ex- 
tensively used  on  the  diifcront  public  works  of  the  State  and 
for  other  purposes.  There  is  a  sulphur  spring  one  mile  south 
of  the  village  of  Chittenango,  of  some  celebrity. 

The  village  of  Cazenovia  is  situated  on  the  Cherry  Valley 
turnpike,  about  10  miles  south  of  the  Erie  Canal,  118  miles 
from  Albany.  It  was  incorporated  in  1810,  and  now  contains 
about  1 ,400  inhabitants,  250  dwelling-houses,  and  4  churches 
of  different  denominations.  Here  is  situated  the  Oneida  Sem- 
inary, a  theological  institution  sustained  by  the  Methodist 
denomination  of  this  and  the  neighboring  States. 

Cazicnovia  Lake  is  a  small  but  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
In  the  town  of  the  same  name.  It  is  4  miles  long  by  1  mile  in 
width,  abounding  in  different  kinds  of  fish. 

The  City  of  Syracuse,  148  miles  from  Albany  and  150  miles 
from  Buffalo,  by  railroad  route,  is  advantageously  situated  on 
the  line  of  the  Eri(  Oanal.  where  it  unites  with  the  Oswejro 
Canal,  near  the  south  end  of  Onondaga  Lake.  This  aspiring 
city  was  chartered  in  1848,  and  is  divided  into  eight  wards. 
In  1889  it  contained  28,119  inhabitants.  Here  are  located  a 
new  court-house  and  jail,  built  of  Onondaga  limestone,  in  the 
Anglo-Norman  style  of  architecture;  a  city  hall,  county 
clerk's  building,  State  Idiot  Asylum,  8  banks,  2  savings* 
banks,  1  insurance  company,  an  orphan  asylum,  and  the 
Franklin  Institute,  organized  in  1837  ;  25  churches  of  different 
denominations,  and  several  large  and  well-kept  hotels.  The 
city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  furnished  with  pure  water.  The 
Oakwood  Cemetery,  situated  in  the  south  part  of  the  city,  is  well 
worthy  of  a  visit. 


84  WESTERN  TOUR. 

PRINCIPAL  HOTELS  IN  8YEACUSE.  ' 

Globe  Hotel Ira  Garrison Opposite  llailroad  Dcp6t. 

Syracuse  House.  .Wm.  D.  Stewart.  .Adjoining  Railroad  Depot. 
Voorhcos  House  .Sprague  &  Gage..  .North  Salina  Street. 

The  Salt  Springs,  in  Syracuse  and  its  in  mediate  vicinity, 
are  of  groat  importance  to  this  place  and  surrounding  country. 
They  are  owned  by  the  State,  from  which  a  handsome  yearly 
revenue  is  derived.  There  arc  within  the  city  alone  ten  coarse 
and  fine  salt  companies,  manufacturing  in  the  aggregate  a 
very  large  amount  of  pure  salt,  of  a  superior  quality.  Besides 
the  above  works,  there  are  a  number  of  iron  founderics  and 
other  large  manufacturing  establishments. 

llie  railroad  facilities  are  also  a  very  important  feature  to 
the  prosperity  of  Synicuse.  In  addition  to  the  New  Y<jrk  Cen- 
tral Railroad,  passing  through  the  center  of  the  city,  h^re  com- 
mences the  Syracme.  Dinglumton.  and  New  York  Railroad,  and 
the  Syrac'di^e  and  Osivego  Railroad,  the  latter  communicating  with 
Lake  Ontario,  85  milea  distant,  in  a  northerly  direction. 
Inhere  are  also  three  city  railroads. 

The  traveler,  on  going  west  from  Syracuse  to  Rochester, 
Buffalo,  or  Niagara  Falls,  h  is  the  choice  of  three  routes  or 
modes  of  conveyance,  viz.  :  by  railroad,  ma  Auburn,  Geneva, 
Canandaigua,  etc  ,  104  miles  to  Rochester  ;  or  proceed  by 
direct  ruii'e,  81  miles;  or  still  another  route,  by  proceeding  to 
Oswego,  35  miles,  by  railroad,  and  then  taking  a  steamer  for 
Rochester  or  Lewiston,  and  thence  to  Niagara  Falls,  passing 
over  Lake  Ontario. 

Geddes  is  an  incorporated  village,  2  miles  west  of  Syracuse, 
on  the  Erie  Canal,  and  within  the  bounds  of  the  Onondaga 
Salt  Springs  Reservation.  The  most  considerable  business  of 
the  place  is  the  manufacture  of  salt. 

Liverpool  is  another  village  principally  engaged  in  the 

nunufacture  of  salt.     It  stands  near  the  northeasterly  shore 

of  Onondaga  Lake,  and  on  the  line  of  the  Oswego  Canal,  about 

6  ndles  from  Syracuse.     It  contains  about  1,000  inhabitants. 

Liverpool  and  Geddes  are  all  included  .'n  the  town  of  Salina, 


WESTERN    TOUR.  85 

and  within  tlio  limits  of  tlie  Ononilaga  Salt  Sprincjs  Reserva- 
tion; and  though  the  original  l{eHeivalioii  included  a  much 
larger  extent  of  surface  than  is  occupied  by  these  villiiges,  yet 
those  are  the  only  portions  of  it  witliin  which  the  making  of 
salt  is  carried  on,  the  State  having  sold  to  private  citizens  the 
whole  of  the  llesevvation  not  included  within  these  villages,  as 
well  as  a  very  large  part  of  what  is  included  within  their 
bounds. 

Salt  wfis  first  made  on  this  tract  at  Salt  Point,  near  the 
margin  of  Onondaga  Lake,  and  witliin  the  bounds  of  Si'lina 
village.  The  manufacture,  in  very  trifling  quantities,  at  that 
point,  was  cariicd  on  by  the  Indians  prior  to  tlie  appearance 
of  any  wiiite  man  among  them,  as  it  was  by  the  white  men 
also,  at  a  very  early  period  of  their  settlement  in  that  vicinity. 
The  earliest  systematic  arrangements,  so  far  as  records  show, 
for  making  salt,  to  any  important  extent,  at  that  place,  date 
as  far  back  as  J 787,  when  works  v«rere  erected  which  produced 
10  bushels  daily — a  very  insignificant  quantity  when  compared 
with  the  present  extent  and  productiveness  of  the  works  on  the 
Reservation. 

The  fine  salt,  which  is  so  called  from  the  small  size  of  its 
crystals,  is  produced  by  the  agency  chiefly  of  artificial  heat, 
and  the  process  of  evaporation  is  carried  on  by  boiling  the 
brine  in  large  iron  kettles.  The  coarse  salt  is  produced  ex- 
clusively by  evaporation  in  the  open  air.  It  is  sometimes 
termed  solar  salt,  and  the  crystals  are  large.  This  salt  is  the 
purest  muriate  of  soda  known  to  commerce.  The  dairy  salt  is 
so  called  from  the  particularly  neat  and  convenient  manner  in 
which  it  is  prepared  and  boxed  for  use  in  dairies. 

The  State  of  New  York,  as  the  proprietor  of  these  salines, 
receives  a  duty  of  one  cent  a  bushel  on  all  the  salt  inspected 
on  the  Reservation,  and  the  works  are  erected  under  written 
leases  of  the  ground  for  specific  terms  of  years,  for  making  the 
Jine  salt ;  and  under  licenses,  somewhat  of  the  character  of 
conditional  grants,  for  making  the  coarse  salt;  but  both  are 
gratuitous,  the  duty  being  substituted  for  rent. 


86  WESTERN    TOUR 


FROM  SYRACUSE  TO  EOCIIESTER  A^^D  BUFFALO. 

Camillus,  8  miles  ^rost  of  Syracuse,  is  situated  on  the  line 
of  the  New  York  Central  Kailroad.  It  contains  about  GOO 
inhabitants. 

The  village  of  Jordan-  is  situated  on  the  Erie  Canal,  19 
miles  west  of  Syracuse.  It  was  incorporated  in  18o5,  and  now 
contains  about  1,300  inhabitants.  A  railroad  is  contemplated 
from  this  place  to  Skaneatelcs,  from  which  a  branch  road, 
already  constructed  to  tlie  Auburn  and  Syracuse  Railroad,  is 
a  part  cf  the  contemplated  work. 

Skaneateles,  6  miles  south  of  the  line  of  the  New  York 
Central  Railroad,  is  delightfully  situated  at  the  foot  of  Skan- 
eateles Lake.  It  was  incorporated  in  1833,  and  now  contains 
about  1,.^>00  inhabitants.  The  lake,  15  miles  long,  and  from 
half  a  mile  to  a  mile  wide,  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  sur- 
rounded by  well-cultivated  farms  and  country  residences,  and 
celebrated  for  its  fine  trout,  Avhich  are  taken  in  great  abund- 
ance, weighing  from  5  to  10  pounds. 

The  City  of  Auburn  is  situated  on  the  outlet  of  Owasco 
Lake,  20  miles  west  of  Syracuse  and  8  miles  south  of  the  Erie 
Canal.  It  was  chartered  in  1848,  and  contained  in  1860  10,086 
inhabitants,  1,200  dwelling-houses,  a  court-house,  jail,  and 
county  clerk's  office.  The  Auburn  State  Prison,  on  the  nortTi 
Bide  of  the  Owasco  outlet,  a  splendi(  edifice  of  the  kind,  was 
founded  in  181G,  and  cost  over  half  a  million  of  dollars.  Here 
are  inclosed  10  acres  of  land,  surrounded  by  a  solid  stone  wall, 
from  16  to  40  feet  in  height  and  3  feet  thick.  The  main 
building,  facing  the  east,  is  8  stories  high,  besides  the  base- 
ment, surmounted  by  a  turreted  cupola,  in  wliich  is  an  alarm 
bell.  The  wings  are  of  two  stories,  the  whole  front  being  276 
feet  long,  and  the  wings  242  deep  by  45  feet  wide,  inclosing  on 
three  sides  a  court  in  the  rear,  about  190  feet  square.  The 
cells  in  the  interior  are  built  within  the  exterior  front,  are  6 
Btories  high,  surrounded  by  galleries.     There  are  770  of  these 


WE8TRRN    TOUR.  87 

Beparato  colla,  ench  cell  being  7  feet  long,  ?>.J  feet  wide,  7.1  feet 
high  and  calcultited  to  acconimodate  one  prisoner  during  his 
relixution  from  labor.  In  addition  to  the  cells,  the  main 
buildng  contains  a  chapel,  a  hospital,  dining-room  for  the 
prisoners,  cooking  apartmimts.  and  store  rooms;  besides  apart- 
ments in  the  main  front  building,  used  as  offices  for  the  clerk 
»nd  agent,  and  for  the  residence  of  the  principal  kecpor. 
Hv.'re  are  now  about  700  convicts,  mostly  engaged  in  different 
kinds  of  mechanical  pursuits,  carried  on  in  workshops  and 
unler  large  sheds  within  the  outside  prison  walls. 

The  ^liibiirn  Theolo<fical  Seminary  is  a  large  stone  edifice, 
4  stories  high  above  the  basement,  and  will  be  200  feet  front, 
when  fully  completed  as  designed. 

OwAsco  Lakk,  a  few  miles  southeast  of  Auburn,  is  12  miles 
long  and  about  1  mile  wide,  being  celebrated  for  its  pictur- 
esque scenery.  The  water  is  very  transparent,  abounding  in 
fish,  and  the  banks  rather  rugged. 


Weedsport,  21  miles  west  of  Syracuse,  and  8  miles  north 
of  Auburn,  is  on  the  Erie  Canal.  It  was  incorporated  in  1831, 
and  now  contains  about  1,200  inhabitants. 

Port  Byhon,  8  miles  west  of  the  above  place,  and  on"  the 
line  of  the  New  York  Central  llailroad  {direct  route) ^  was  in- 
corporated in  1837,  and  now  contains  about  1,700  inhabitants. 
Here  is  an  extensive  liouiing  mill,  with  12  run  of  stones,  and 
other  manufacturing  establishments. 

Mont  ZLTMA,  205  miles  from  Albany,  by  canal  route,  is 
situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Canal  with 
the  Erie  Canal.  It  contains  about  700  inhabitants,  1  church, 
8  taverns,  and  5  stores.  Here  are  a  number  of  saline  springs^ 
from  which  salt  has  been  manufactured  ever  since  the  earliest 
settlement  of  this  part  of  the  country,  and  the  salt  is  of  the 
best  and  purest  quality.  "The  specific  gravity  of  this  brine 
is  1. 09707;  and  1,000,  parts  of  it  contain  129.83  parts  of  dry 
solid  mittcr,  or  12.93,  in  100  parts  of  brine.    This  is  within 


88  WKflTFRN    TOUR. 

ono  per  cent,  of  the  strength  of  much  of  the  brine  now  worked 
in  Onondaga  County." 


Tlie  village  of  Cayuga,  10  miles  west  of  Auburn,  is  situated 
on  the  Ciist  hank  of  Cayuga  Lake;  it  contains  about  400  in- 
habitants, •'>0  dwelling-bouHos,  1  church,  2  taverns,  and  3 
stores.  Here  the  celebrated  "Cayuga  liridge"  crosses  tb« 
lake,  which  is  upward  of  a  mile  wide;  a  new  bridge  has  aino 
been  here  erected  for  the  New  York  Central  Railroad,  still 
longer.  A  steamboat  runs  from  this  place  to  Ithaca,  a  dis- 
tance of  40  miles. 


Tourists  traveling  for  plc;tsure  are  recommended  to  ujviate 
Boutii  on  their  arrival  at  the  foot  of  Cayuga  Lake,  and  make 
the  pleasant 

TOIIli  OF  THE  CAYUGA  LAKE. 

Cayuga  Lake,  which  constitutes  one  of  the  Central  Lakes 
of  New  York,  is  40  miles  long  and  from  1  to  4  miles  wide.  It 
lies  between  the  counties  of  Cayuga  and  Seneca,  extending 
some  10  or  12  miles  into  Tompkins  County.  This  lake,  which 
is  very  depp,  is  navigated  by  steamboats  from  Cayuga  Bridge 
to  the  village  of  Ithaca,  stopping  at  the  intermediate  landings. 
It  is  a  most  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by  well-culti- 
vated farms  and  thriving  villages,  and  abounds  with  salmon 
trout,  white  fish,  pike,  pickerel,  perch,  and  catfish.  On  sev- 
eral of  the  inlets  to  this  lake,  toward  the  south,  are  most 
beautiful  and  picturesque  water-falls^  well  worthy  the  atten- 
tion of  the  lovers  of  natural  scenery.  The  outlet  flows  north 
into  Seneca  River,  and  thence  into  Lake  Ontario. 

The  traveler  has  now  one  of  the  pleasantest  paths  of  jour- 
neying before  him.  He  finds  at  the  wharf,  at  East  Cayuga — 
or,  as  tlie  station  is  known  on  all  the  routes,  Cayuga  Brids:c— 
a  beautiful  steamboat,  the  "  Kate  Morgan,"  and  in  this  his 


WESTERN    TOUR.  89 

transit  over  the  clear  and  healthful  waters  of  this  lake  is  to  be 
made.  The  old  l)ridge,  coteiiiporancous  with  the  century,  is 
almost  among  the  relics  of  another  day;  and  yet  it  was  a 
famous  ilioroughfare  in  its  time.  It  was  niemorahlo  as  a 
dividing  barrier  in  old  political  times,  opposing  majorities  fre- 
quently testing  the  strength  of  numbers  on  these  linos. 

Cayuga  village  is  mostly  upon  the  hill.  Tlie  station-house 
has  clustered  a  group  of  buildings  around  it,  but  the  tratiic  of 
the  country  around  tin<ls  its  way  to  the  upper  stre<;t.  A  neat 
church,  lately  renovated,  gives  a  plefi.sant  appearance  to  the 
height,  its  steeple  being  conspicuous  far  up  the  lake.  Here 
was  in  the  days  of  coach  and  wagon  a  wonderful  gathering  of 
travelers,  and  many  hours  have  passed  away  here,  while  team 
and  men  gathered  strength  to  go  into  the  plunge  on  bad  roads. 

The  Old  Bridge  is  a  mile  and  some  rods  in  length.  It  is 
now  a  solitude  compared  to  its  former  activity.  The  Central 
Railroad  crosses  on  a  separate  bridge,  and  has  in  part  pro- 
tecte'f  its  way  by  luxuriant  willows. 

The  boat  now  proceeds  on  its  way  to  Ithaca.  It  takes  a 
course  near  the  east  shore,  as  its  first  landing  is  at  the  village 
of  Springport.  For  the  first  six  miles  the  Cayuga  is  not  deep. 
The  depth  in  some  spots  is  considerable,  but  not  over  15  or  20 
feet.     In  approaching  Springport,  at  the  right  hand,  is  seen 

FiiONrENAC  Island, 
the  only  island  in  the  lake,  and  a  beautiful  locality  it  is.  1 
was  ceded  by  the  State  in  185(3  to  the  village  of  Springport,  as 
a  pleasure-ground,  and  the  citizens,  under  the  intelligent  lead 
of  Mr.  John  J  Thomas,  have  improve  1  and  tastefully  arranged 
its  surface.  Mr.  Street,  the  State  Librarian,  one  of  the  most 
original  and  delightful  poets  of  tliis  land,  has  written  some 
beautiful  stanzas  on  the  theme  of  this  island.  It  was  the  men- 
tion of  this  locality  by  A.  B.  Street,  in  his  poem  of  "  Frontenac,'* 
published  by  Bentley,  of  London,  which  induced  this  name  to 
be  given. 

Springport  is  a  neat  village,  of  about  1,100  inhabitants, 
active  and  industrious.    The  houses  are  tasteful,  and  some  of 

8* 


^0  WESTERN    TOUR 

the  upper  streets  deserve  special  notice.  Its  cliief  feature  ig 
the  celebrated  spring  which  issues  out  of  the  earth  on  the  very 
margin  of  the  lake;  but  at  just  heijht  enough  to  give  a  suffi- 
cient and  enduring  water-power.  There  are  also  abundant 
quarries  of  limestone,  of  excellent  material  for  building  or  for 
plaster.  The  traveler  can  notice  on  the  hill-side,  immediately 
at  the  north  of  the  island,  a  superb  stone  mansion,  of  unusual 
beauty  and  value,  the  property  of  Robert  W.  Howland,  for- 
merly of  New  Bedford,  This  house  is  worthy  of  a  visit,  as 
among  the  first  class  of  rural  residences  This  villige  is  the 
residence  of  Mr.  J.  J.  Thomas,  a  celebrated  agricultural 
writer. 

After  making  its  landing  here,  the  boat  procaeds,  skirting 
the  eastern  shore,  and  passing  a  part  of  the  like  where  the 
variety  of  points  and  little  indentations  give  peculiar  pictur- 
esqueness  to  the  sail.     The  boat  next  lands  at 

Lev  ANN  A,  a  small  post-hamlet,  10  miles  from  the  bridge. 
Just  before  reaching  this,  the  tourist  will  see  on  the  east  bauk. 
the  residence  of  William  11.  Grinncll.  Ingleside  is  one  of 
the  most  agroeable  farms  in  the  State,  and,  as  it  slopes  from 
its  ample  and  handsome  dwelling  to  the  water,  gives  at  a  glance 
a  rural  picture  scarcely  surpassed.  From  Levanna  the  boat 
sails  onward  beneath  clifiFs  that,  by  their  abrupt  vine-covered 
steeps,  break  the  line  of  the  shore,  till,  in  a  dis'ance  of  2  milea 
(12  from  Cayuga  Bridge),  Aurora  is  the  next  reached. 

Aurora  has,  tastefuiMwellings  and  well- cultivated  gardens 
to  an  extent  which  would  repay  the  tourist  to  remain  there  a 
few  hours.  Its  one  long  street  is  directly  on  the  water  side, 
and  heavy,  dark  stone  sea  walls  are  the  procecdon  of  the  soil 
against  its  storms  These  gardens  have  tasteful  appendages 
of  summer  houses,  and  hedges,  and  floral  cultivation,  so  that 
a  sail  along  the  shore  furnishes  many  pretty  incidents.  The 
dwellings  of  Henry  Morgan  and  of  Henry  Wells,  by  their  situ- . 
ation  and  their  value,  attract  notice  at  once.  The  gardens  of. 
many  of  the  citizens  1  ave  been  planned  and  cultivated  with 
unusual  nicety  and  attention  to  good  taste.  ; 


•-    t  r  -7^   ' 


WESTERN    TOUR.  91 

The  village  terminates  at  the  south  in  the  valuable  farm  of 
Richard  Hale,  of  the  Few  York  Journal  of  Commerce.  The 
center  of  the  view  in  the  village  is  the  Academy  and  Library 
Hall.  The  latter  contains,  besides  its  thousands  of  volumes,  a 
capital  full-length  portrait  of  Governor  Seward,  by  Elliot,  one 
of  the  most  distinguished  of  limners. 

Leaving  Aurora,  the  boat  passes  by  two  picturesque  points, 
Rocky  and  Osborne's  Points,  and  after  this  the  boat  pursues 
its  way  to  the  western  side  of  the  lake. 

At  Sheldrake  Point  the  tourist  will  see  a  very  pretty 
hamlet,  the  superb  farm  directly  south  of  which  was  one  of  the 
localities  which  received  much  support  as  the  proper  site  for 
the  State  Agricultural  College.  At  this  landing  travelers  des- 
tined for  Ovid  and  the  Agricultural  College  are  landed. 

Then  follows  in  succession  Kidder's  Ferry  and  Trumansburgh 
Landing.  This  latter  is  the  point  for  a  large  and  enterprising 
village,  a  mile  to  the  "vpstward,  whose  citizen,  Herman  Camp, 
is  so  well  known  in  the  annals  of  bensvolent  effort. 

Goodwin's  Point  is  the  landing  for  those  who  would  visit  the 
Taghanic  Fall,  the  fairest,  loveliest  fall  in  all  the  country.  Its 
crystal  vail,  as  it  wreathes  itself  in  that  vast  gorge,  is  a  pic- 
ture of  beauty  worth  all  the  journey.  The  eulogy  here  given 
to  this  fall  all  who  visit  it  will  affirm.  It  has  no  equal  in  its 
blending  of  the  lovely  w^ater  with  the  gloomy  gorge 

At  the  east  side  of  the  lake  there  is  a  landing  for  the  Ridge 
road,  and  a  very  convenient  one  it  is.  Then  the  boat,  after 
making  a  landing  for  the  village  of  Ludlowville,  proceeds  to 
Ithaca,  the  end  of  its  route. 

Ithaca  is  a  large,  prosperous  town,  whose  beauty  and  en- 
terprise gratifies  the  good  sense  of  the  Bewitt's,  who  originated 
it.  It  has  all  the  accessories  of  a  large  population,  and  is  just 
such  a  home  as  those  who  enjoy  life  there  may  felicitate  them- 
selves on  possessing.  Here  will  be  found  several  well-kept 
hotels,  and  much  beautiful  scenery. 


V-:' 


i^r'i.  m^--i  ^r M;i.ij  'C'  :;'.■•■".  ■..ijv    '.i'v  ,Jr.l 


92  WESTERN    TOUR. 


THE  LAKES  OF  WESTERN  NEW  YOllK. 

Onkida  Lake  is  a  large  and  important  sheet  of  water,  Bur- 
roimded  by  the  counties  of  Oneida,  Madison,  Onondaga,  and  «, 
^gfO.-^wcgo.     It  is  22  miles  long,  and  from  4  to  6  miles  wide.     It  , 
j'lc^ives  Wood  Creek  and  its  tributaries  on  the  east,  Oneida 
Creek  and  Chittenango  Creek  on  the  south,  besides  some  smaller 
streams.     On  the  east  end  of  the  lake  there  is  a,  beautiful 
shelving  beach,  which  is  much  resorted  to  for  fishing  with 
seines.      White   fish,   pike,   pickerel,   perch,   snd    catfish   are  ' 
caught  in  great  abundance      The  north  shore  is  remarkable 
for  its  bold  and  picturesque  beauty.     This  lake,  in  connection 
with  its  outlet  into  Oswego  River,  forms  an  important  channel  . 
of  trade,  there  being  a  branch  canal  of  6  miles  in  length  at  its 
east  end,  connecting  with  the  Erie  Canal,  thus  forming  a  con-  : 
nection  with  the  Oswego  Canal,  which  mns  from  Syracuse  to 
Oswego,  along  the  east  bank  of  Oswego  River. 

Oneida  Lake,  in  connection  with  Wood  Creek  and  Seneca 
Biver,  in  early  days  formed  an  important  channel  of  water 
communication  from  east  to  west,  being  navigated  by  a  small 
class  of  vessels  or  boats  running  tlirough  to  Seneca  Lake. 

Skaneateles  Lake   lies  partly  between  the  counties  of  . 
Cayuga  and  Onondaga.     It  is  15  miles  long,  and  from  half  a 
mile  to  one  mile  wide.     This  is  a  beautiful  and  romantic  sheet 
of  water ;   on  the  north  it  is  surrounded  by  highly  cultivated  < 
farms  and  country  residences,  while  on  the  south  the  banks  j 
r?.re  more  rugged  and  the  scenery  very  picturesque  and  roman- 
tic.    It  is  also  highly  celebrated  for  its  fine  trout,  which  are 
taken  in  great  abundance,  weighing  from  5  to  10  pounds. 

Onondaga  Lake  is  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  this 
county.     It  is  about  7  miles  long,  and  from  2  to  3  miles  wide.  ■ 
This  lake  abounds  in  pike,  pickerel,  bass,  and  catfish.     On  itS; 
banks  are  the  city  of  Syracuse  and  the  villages  of  Geddes  and  • 
Liverpool.     Many  have  supposed  that  the  water  at  the  bottom 
oi'  this  lake  was  salt,  from  the  fact  that  the  salt  springs  are 


WESTERN    TOUR.  93 

located  on  its  bordors ;  but.  from  experiments  made  some  two 
or  three  years  since,  it  has  been  ascertained  that  sucli  ia  not 
the  fact 

Otisco  Lake  lies  in  the  western  part  of  Onondaga  County, 
and  is  about  5  miles  long  by  2  miles  wide.  This  is  a  bf'autiful 
sheet  of  water,  and  the  scenery  about  it  in  manj'  places  truly 
romantic.     Its  outlet  flows  south  into  Onondaga  Lake. 

Cazp'novia  Lake  is  a  small  but  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
situated  in  the  town  of  the  same  name,  it  is  4  miles  long  by 
1  mile  in  width,  abounding  with  different  kinds  of  fish. 

OwAsco  Lakk,  situated  in  Cayuga  County,  is  12  miles  long 
and  about  1  mile  wide,  abounding  with  trout  and  otlier  fish  of 
fine  flavor.  The  water  is  very  transparent,  and  the  banks 
rather  rugged,  being  celebrated  for  its  picturesque  scenery. 

Cayuga  Lake,  which  constitutes  one  of  the  central  lakes 
of  New  York,  is  40  miles  long  and  from  1  to  3^  miles  wide.  It 
lies  between  the  counties  of  Cayuga  and  Seneca,  extending 
some  10  or  12  miles  into  Tompkins  County.  This  lake,  wliich 
is  very  deep,  is  navigated  by  steamboats  from  Cayuga  Bridge  to 
the  village  of  Ithaca,  stopping  at  the  intermediate  landings. 
It  is  a  most  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by  highly 
cultivated  farms  and  thriving  villages,  abounding  in  sahnon 
trout,  white  fish,  pike,  pickerel,  perch,  and  catfish.  On  several 
of  the  inlets  to  this  lake,  toward  the  south,  are  most  beautiful 
and  picturesque  water  falls,  well  woi'thy  the  attention  of  the 
lovers  of  natural  scenery.  Tlie  outlet  flows  north  into  Seneca 
River,  near  where  it  is  croi-^sed  by  two  bridges,  each  upward 
of  a  mile  in  length — one  being  a  toll  bridge,  known  as  the 
Cayuga  Bridge,  and  the  other  a  new  bridge,  erected  by  the 
old  Auburn  and  Rochester  Uailroad  Company.     (See  page  88.) 

Sknkca  Lakk  is  one  of  the  largest,  as  well  as  the  most 
beautiful,  of  the  numerous  lakes  which  so  much  adorn  Western 
New  York.  It  extends  from  south  to  north  40  miles,  and 
varies  in  width  from  2  to  4  miles.  It  is  very  deep,  and,  in 
consequence,  is  never  ifrozen.  The  depth  is  not  accurately 
Ijuiown,  but  was  found  a  year  or  two  ago  to  be  about  500  feet 


94  WERTKRN    TOUR. 

about  12  miles  above  the  outlet.  The  water  is  very  clear,  and 
at  a  considerable  depth  below  the  surface  of  course  cool ;  it  is 
sometimes  brouglit  up  for  drinking  by  lotting  down  a  corked 
bottle,  till  it  reaches  a  depth  at  which  the  pressure  of  the 
water  forces  in  the  cork,  and  fills  it.  The  lands  about  the 
southern  or  upper  extremity  of  the  lake  are  hij^h  and  pictur* 
esque ;  about  the  northern  less  elevated,  but  undulating,  and 
covered  with  the  richest  crops,  with  here  and  there  remains  of 
the  magnificent  primitive  forest.  The  outlet  of  the  lake  is  at 
the  northeastern  angle,  and  the  discharge  of  water  furnishes 
an  ample  supply  of  power  to  the  manufactories  of  Waterloo 
and  Seneca  Falls,  which  flourishing  villages  are  situated,  the 
former  about  6,  and  the  latter  10  miles  from  the  lake.  Seneca 
Lake  receives  the  waters  of  Crooked  Lake  at  Dresden,  about 
12  miles  above  Geneva.  The  ou  let  of  Crooked  Lake  is  about 
6  miles  in  length,  and  the  descent  to  Seneca 'Lake  about  270 
feet.  A  canal  constructed  along  this  outlet  connects  the  two 
lakes.  Seneca  Lake  does  not  so  much  abound  with  fish  as 
some  of  the  other  lakes,  probably  in  consequence  of  the  depth 
and  coldness  of  its  waters.  There  are  found  in  it,  however, 
white-fish,  pike,  pickerel,  trout,  perch,  herring,  rock-bass, 
Striped  bass,  chub,  sunfish,  catfish,  eels,  shiners,  mullet,  etc. 

A  steamer  runs  on  this  lake,  summer  and  winter,  for  the 
conveyance  of  passengers. 

Canandaigua  Lakk  is  »  most  beautiful  sheet  of  wav-er,  14 
miles  long,  and  from  1  to  H  miles  wide,  lying  mostly  in  the 
county  of  Ontario,  and  a  small  part  n  Yates  County.  It  is 
surrounded  by  highly  cultivated  lands,  justly  celebrated  for 
their  fertility,  diversified  by  charming  scenery.  Its  waters, 
which  are  deep  and  clear,  abound  with  fish  of  diiferent  kinds, 
and  are  elevated  670  feet  above  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Canan- 
daigua  Outlet  flows  northeast  into  Flint  Creek,  then  into  Clyde 
and  Seneca  River,  all  of  which  are  important  mill-streams. 
The  steamer  '*  Joskph  Wood"  runs  from  the  village  of  Canan- 
daigua  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  Innding  at  Cheshire,  Gorham, 
Aliddlesex,  and  South  Bristol.    Stages  run  from  the  landing  at 


WESTERN    TOUR.  95 

the  head  of  the  lake  to  Bhod^s,  on  the  Buffalo,  Corning,  and 
New  York  Railroad,  connecting  at  Corning  with  the  New  York 
and  Erie  Railroad. 

Crookkd  Lakk,  by  the  Indians  called  ITeuka,  lies  partly  in 
the  county  of  Steuben  and  partly  in  Yates.  It  is  22  miles  in 
length,  averaging  li  miles  in  width,  running  nearly  north  and 
south.  The  waters  of  this  lake  are  270  feet  above  Seneca 
Lake,  with  whit;h  it  is  connected  by  an  outlet  and  canal.  It 
abounds  in  salmon  trout,  white  fish,  pickerel,  perch,  sunfish, 
bass,  and  catfish.  Its  waters  are  cool  and  transparent,  and 
from  3  to  500  feet  in  depth.  At  Bluff  Point,  9  miles  north  of 
the  head  of  the  lake,  it  is  divided  by  a  high  promontory,  ex- 
tending on  the  east  to  near  the  village  of  Penn-Yan,  a  farther 
distance  of  13  miles,  while  the  northern  branch  extends  9  miles 
to  Branchport.  A  steamboat  for  the  conveyance  of  passengers 
and  towing  plies  daily  from  Hammondsport  to  Penn-Yan, 
affording  a  fine  view  of  the  lake  and  adjacent  country. 

Chautauque  Lake,  lying  in  the  county  of  Chautauque, 
N.  Y.,  its  head  being  within  8  miles  of  Lake  Erie,  is  a  most 
remarkable  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  and  deserves  a 
notice,  although  its  waters  flow  south  into  the  Allegany  River, 
and  thence  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  18  miles  in  length, 
and  in  breadth  varies  from  2  to  3  miles,  except  near  the  middle, 
where  it  contracts  to  a  few  rods.  It  is  navigable  for  steam- 
boats from  Mayville,  at  its  head,  tp  the  foot  of  the  lake,  thence 
by  its  outlet  to  the  Connewango  Creek.  This  lake  is  elevated 
72G  feet  above  the  surface  of  Lake  Erie,  and  1,291  feet  above  the 
Atlantic  Ocean,  being  the  highest  body  of  water  in  the  Union 
on  which  a  steamer  floats. 

Kxtract  from  a  JSew  York  paper,  dated  September ,  1856. 

The  starting  of  a  new  steanAb'uat  on  Chautauque  Lake, 
between  Jamestown  and  Mayville,  the  county  seat,  is  quite  an 
event  with  us.  This  lake  is  eighteen  miles  long  and  three 
miles  wide.  It  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  directly  in  the 
center  of  the  county,  which  it  adorns  as  gracefully  as  any 
jewel  its  settings  It  is  seven  hundred  feet  higher  than  Lake 
Erie,  though  the  distance  between  the  two  lakes  is  only  seven 


96  WESTERN    TOUR. 

or  eight  miles.  Chautauqne  Lnke  is  the  highest  water  navi- 
gated by  stoaui  in  the  State  of  New  York.  The  little  stenin- 
boat  which  plies  daily  between  .Jametstown  and  Mayville  is 
called  the  "C.  C.  Dknnis."  The  ride  on  this  boat  to  Miiyville, 
and  thence  over  the  ridge  which  divides  the  two  lakes  to  West- 
field,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  romantic  in  the  coun- 
try. Jamestown  is  situated  four  miles  from  Chautauquo  Lake, 
and  on  its  outlet.  The  outlet  is  a  deep,  sluggish  stream, 
eliaded  on  both  sides  by  a  heavy  forest  of  tamaracks,  and 
hedged  in  by  an  undergrowtli  of  shrubbery,  so  dense  that  the 
view  is  completely  intercepted.  Tlie  ride  through  the  graceful 
windings  of  the  outlet,  reposing  so  quietly  in  the  bosom  of  such 
luxuriant  vegetation,  reminds  one  of  the  accounts  we  often 
read  of  the  scenery  of  tropical  regions.  The  shores  of  the  lake 
present  no  bluffs,  but  they  slope  back  gradually  from  the 
water's  edge,  and  are  covered  with  line  farms.  You  leave  the 
steamer  at  Mnysvillo,  and  take  the  stage  for  Westtield.  A  ride 
of  about  2  miles  brings  you  to  the  summit  of  the  ridge  which 
iivides  the  lakes,  and  here  a  most  magnificent  panorama  is 
opened  to  your  view.  A  few  miles  distant,  and  TOt)  feet  below 
''ou,  Luke  Erie  stretches  its  blue  expanse  toward  Canada  and 
'uifalo,  which  you  can  almost  see.  It  is  dotted  over  with  the 
iiited  canvas  of  sailing  vessels,  from  which  you  may  now  and 
dien  distinguish  a  steamer  by  its  long  trail  of  smoke. 

At  tiie  foot  of  the  hill  on  which  you  stand  lies  the  beautiful 
village  of  Westfield.  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  and  fertile  country, 
Behind  you  lies  Lake  Chautauque,  which  looks  like  Lake  Erie 
in  miniature.  There  is  a  barn  on  the  ridge,  the  water  falling 
on  the  eaves  of  which  run  one  way  through  Lake  Chautauque 
and  the  Allegany  and  Ohio  rivers  to  the  Mississippi  and  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  on  the  other  side  to  Lake  Erie  and  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 


The  village  of  Seneca  Falls,  16  miles  west  of  Auburn,  and 

190  miles  from  Albany,  by  railroad  route,  is  advantageously  2 

situated  on  both  sides  of  the  outlet  of  Seneca  Lake.    It  was  ^' 

incorporated  in  1831,  and  now  contains  about  7,000  inhabi-  -' 

tants,  800  dwelling-houses,  7  churches  of  different  denomina-  '* 

tions,  1  cotton  factory,  and  8  flouring  mills.     In  this  neighbor-  ^ 

hood  are  large  quantities  of  gypsum,  which  is  here  ground  and  i- 

Bent  to  dilFerent  parts  of  the  country.     The  Cayuga  and  Seneca  'i 

Canal  and  the  Auburn  and  Eochester  Railroad  pass  through  ^ 


WESTERN   TOUR.  WL 

this  village.  The  wator-power  afTorded  by  the  Seneca  outlet 
la  very  great ;  the  descent  from  Seneca  to  Cayuga  Lake,  a  dis- 
tance of  12  miles,  being  about  75  feet.  The  stream  is  abun- 
dant, and  not  subject  to  freshets,  scarcely  ever  having  a  risto 
to  exceed  two  feet ;  the  hydraulic  power  is  great,  and  is  but 
partially  employed.  At  Seneca  Falls  there  is  a  descent  of  up- 
ward of  40  feet  within  the  distance  of  one  mile.  Here  are 
five  locks  in  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Canal,  which  unites  with 
the  Erie  Canal  at  Montezuma. 

Waterloo,  193  miles  west  of  the  city  of  Albany,  is  hand- 
somely situated  on  both  sides  of  the  outlet  of  Seneca  Lake, 
which  is  in  part  used  as  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Canal.  It  was 
incorporated  in  1824,  and  now  contains  about  6,000  inhabi- 
tants, 600  dwelling-houses,  a  court-house  and  jail,  being  a 
half-shire  town  with  Ovid  ;  1  Presbyterian,  1  Episcopal,  1  Bap- 
tist, and  1  Metliodist  church ;  an  academy,  8  hotels  and  tav- 
erns, 1  banking  house,  25  dry  goods,  grocery,  and  other  stores  ; 
1  largo  woolen  factory,  which  manufactures  over  200,000 
pounds  of  wool  annually,  and  5  flouring  mills,  containing  18 
run  of  stone.  The  fall  of  water  at  this  place  is  about  16  feet. 
Jn  the  immediate  vicinity  are  quarried  large  quantities  of 
limestone,  extensively  used  for  building.  In  addition  to  the 
Cayuga  and  Seneca  Ctuial,  the  New  York  Central,  or  Auburn 
and  Rochester  Railroad,  passes  through  this  village,  which  is 
iibout  equidistant  between  Cayuga  and  Seneca  lakes. 

Geneva,  52  miles  west  of  Auburn,  and  200  miles  from 
Albany,  via  New  York  Central  Railroad,  is  beautifully  situ- 
ated near  the  foot,  or  north  end,  of  Seneca  Lake,  on  the  west- 
ern side.  The  principal  part  of  the  village,  which  is  devoted 
to  the  residences  of  the  inhabitants,  lies  upon  a  ridge  along 
the  banks  of  the  lake,  and  elevated  about  100  feet  above  the 
Burface,  while  the  business  part  extends  to  the  plain  which  lies 
at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  and  but  little  elevated.  The  land  west 
of  the  village  is  peculiarly  formed,  consisting  of  a  succession  6{ 
ridges  parallel  to  the  lake,  and  rising  higher  and  higher  for 
some  distance,  commanding  a  view  of  its  waters,  as  if  fonne^. 

9 


98  tTKSTERN   TOUR. 

1^.    1..,,    .,...»   u   ...-:  .,.'    ,     .        .  .  .r.^  .     .■-...•;\;r 

for  choice  residences  in  this  region  of  beanty.  The  Tillage  iras 
incorporated  in  1812,  and  now  contains  about  3,000  inhabi- 
tants and  800  dwelling-houses.  The  Geneva  CoUege,  attached 
to  which  are  three  buildings,  and  the  Genevi  Lyceum,  are 
located  here,  and  8  churches  of  different  denominations.  The 
new  Episcopal  church  is  a  splendid  edifice,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
about  $30,000.  The  accommodation  for  stringers  at  Geneva 
is  very  good,  there  being  several  well-kept  hotels;  and  car- 
\  riages  arc  ahvays  in  readiness  at  the  railroud  depot  and  steam- 
*  boat  landing,  to  convey  passengers  to  any  part  of  the  village. 
Two  or  threa  steamboats  ply  regularly  on  the  lake,  running 
daily  up  and  down  between  Geneva  and  the  village  of  JeflFerson 
at  the  head  of  the  lake,  connecting  with  stages  to  Elmira  and 
Corning,  and  at  the  latter  place  with  the  railroad  to  the  cities 
of  New  York  and  Philadelphia.  A  boat  is  employed  in  towing 
canal  boats,  which  come  to  Geneva  by  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca 
Canal,  a  branch  of  the  Erie  Canal,  and  thence  to  the  villages  on 
the  lake,  and  to  the  canal  which  connects  this  lake  with  Crooked 
Lake,  and  the  Chemung  Canal,  leading  from  Jefferson  to  the 
Chemung  River  at  Elmira,  and  by  the  feeder  to  Corning.  The 
meridian  of  the  capital  at  Washington  passes  through  the  lake 
about  half  a  mile  east  of  Geneva. 

Geneva,  or  Hobart,  College  received  its  charter  in  1825,  and 
is  a  flourishing  institution.  The  college  buildings,  three  in 
number,  are  beautifully  situated  on  Main  Street,  overlooking 
Seneca  Lake.  A  large  and  handsome  building  is  about  being 
erected  on  the  same  street  for  the  use  of  the  medical  department. 


Clyde,  186  miles  from  Albany,  via  the  New  York  Central 
Bailroad,  is  a  flourishing  town,  situated  on  the  line  of  •the  Erie 
Canal,  containing  about  1,800  inhabitants.  It  is  proposed  to 
construct  a  canal  from  this  place  to  Lake  Ontario. 

Lyons,  16  miles  north  of  Geneva,  is  eligibly  situated  on  the 
Erie  Canal,  193  miles  west  of  Albany  by  direct  route.  It  was 
incorporated  in  1831,  and  now  contains  about  3,200  inhabi- 


WESTERN    TOUR.  99 

tants,  i'iO  dwelling-houses,  a  court-house  and  ja'1,  county 
clerk's  nnd  surrogate's  office;  1  Presbyterian,  1  Episcopal,  1 
Methodist,  I  Baptist,  and  I  Lutheran  church.  Stages  leave 
Lyons  daily  for  Geneva  on  the  south,  and  Sodus  Point  on  the 
north,  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Ontario. 

Nkwark,  7  miles  west  of  Lyons,  on  the  Erie  Canal,  is  an 
active  place  of  business,  and  contains  about  2,000  inhabitants. 

Palmyra,  15  miles  west  of  Lyons,  and  20G  from  Albany, 
was  incorporated  in  1828,  and  now  contains  about  2,400  in- 
habitants. It  is  situated  on  an  elevated  and  dry  piece  of 
ground,  in  the  midst  of  a  delightful  wheat-growing  country. 
The  main  street  is  over  one  mile  and  a  quarter  in  length,  and 
at  each  end  touches  the  canal ;  it  is  intersected  by  cross  streets 
of  ample  width,  many  of  which  are  ornamented  by  beautiful 
shade  trees. 

'  On  leaving  Geneva,  going  west  by  railroad,  you  incline  to 
the  north,  passing  through  a  fine  section  of  country,  for  which 
the  county  of  Ontario  is  justly  celebrated. 

Vienna,  8  miles  from  Geneva,  is  a  flourishing  place,  on  the 
outlet  of  the  Canaudaigua  Lake,  at  the  junction  of  Flint 
Creek.  There  are  two  settlements  about  one  mile  apart, 
known  as  East  Vienna  and  West  Vienna.' 
'  Clifton  Springs,  3  miles  west  of  Vienna,  are  resorted  to 
for  their  medicinal  properties,  and  have  become  somewhat 
celebrated.  They  are  sulphur  springs,  of  a  similar  charact^er 
to  many  others  to  be  found  in  Western  New  York.     Here  is  a 

large  and  commodious  public  house,  for  the  accommodation  of 

■'--•-■•-     ■■■{ 
visitors. 

'•  This  place  is  admirably  situated,  remote  from  the  noise  and 

dust  of  large  villages  or  cities,  embracing  a  beautiful  grove  of 

forest  trees,  as  its  pleasure-grounds,  from  the  midst  of  which 

flow  its  springs  of  pure*  and  /healthf\fi{  wati-ir,  so  disposed  by 

nature  as  to  please  -flcud  inj.erq^t  t\^Q  vifiJtoii  and  -r^ndey  it  a 

desirable  retreat,  whether  lor  those  s^king  a  rfesiorativ<}  from 

disease,  those  wiio^h]^V]^  a  f«w  leisure  ^it^et  o^-^ireeka^to  §p'^ud.i]^ 


100  WE8TKRN   TOUR. 


t 


recreation  and  pleasnre,  or  for  thoBo  who,  with  their  famllf^, 
ar«  disposed  to  leave  the  heated  walls  of  a  city  residence  to 
enjoy  the  refreshing  breezes  and  pure  atmosphere  of  the  coun- 
try, during  the  warm  season." 

The  waters,  which  are  mainly  of  a  fnilphurous  character, 
charged  somewhat  with  soda,  magnesia,  and  carbonic  gas, 
stand  unsurpassed  in  their  medicinal  character,  as  a  remedy 
for  the  various  skin  diseases,  rheumatic  affections,  dyspepsia, 
general  debility  of  the  system,  etc.,  and  have  effected  cures  in 
cases  where  the  waters  of  other  springs  have  failed. 

Canandaigua  is  delightfully  situated  near  the  foot  of  Catti 
andaigua  Lake,  223  miles  west  of  Albany  by  railroad.  It  was 
incorporated  in  1815,  and  now  contains  about  6,000  inhabi- 
tants, 800  dwelling-houses,  a  court  house,  jail,  surrogate's 
office,  county  clerk's  office,  and  town-house ;  1  Presbyterian,  I 
Episcopal,  1  Baptist,  1  Methodist,  and  1  African  church ;  2 
banking  houses  and  a  savings'  bank.  No  place  in  the  State 
probably  exceeds  this  village  as  a  desirable  place  of  residence, 
being  surrounded  by  a  rich  ngricultural  district,  abounding  in 
almost  every  luxury  for  which  Western  JSTew  York  is  so  justly 
celebrated.  On  the  south,  at  a  short  distance,  lies  Canan* 
daigua  Lake,  with  its  cultivated  shores,  in  full  view  of  thii 
abode  of  taste  and  opulence. 

The  village  of  Victor  is  9  miles  west  of  Canandaigua,  and  a 
little  to  the  north  of  the  railroad.  ^ 

PiTTSFORD,  12  miles  farther,  is  on  the  line  of  the  Erie 
Canal,  near  its  intersection  with  the  railroad.  It  was  inoor- 
povated  in  1827,  and  now  contains  about  700  inhabitants.        *** 

Brighton,  4  miles  east  of  Rochester,  is  also  on  the  line  of 
the  Erie  CanaL  '**  *  ""j^ 

•  The  City  of  KocHFSTiSR,  230  m'lVjs'west  from  Albany,  and 
68  miks  »5ast  of  Buffalo*  Vv  ?  ailroaci  rovt'?.  'is  advantageousljr 
situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Genesee  River,  and  on  the  line  of 
the  Erib  Cmdl,  7  mil^  ^cuth  of  La^e'  Ontario,  with  which  iHaU 


WESTERIf   TOUR.  101 

(xonesoe  Psiver  affords  good  water  communication  for  steam- 
boats and  Hchuoncrs  from  the  landing,  2  miles  below  the  center 
of  the  city.     It  was  chartered  in  18o4,  and  is  now  divided  into 

9  wards,  being  governed  by  a  mayor,  recorder,  and  board  of 
aldermen.  It  contained  in  18G0  4H,204  inhabitants,  mostly 
engaged  in  mercantile  and  manufacturing  pursuits;  a  new 
city  hull  and  court-house;  a  jail  and  county  clerk's  office;  a 
surrogate's  office;  "2  public  markets;  gas  works;  water  Avorks; 

10  banking  houses;  3  savings'  banks;  1  mutual  insurance 
company ;  5  Presbyterian  churches,  4  Episcopal,  3  Baptist,  4 
Methodist,  6  Itoman  Catholic,  1  Unitarian,  1  Universalist,  1 
Covenanters,  1  Lutheran,  2  Friends'  meeting  houses,  and  2 
African  churches;  2  orphan  as,\lums;  a  collegiate  institute; 
4  female  seminaries,  and  1(3  public  schools.  Tho  hotels  are 
numerous,  and  most  of  them  well  kept,  affording  every  desir- 
able luxury.  The  Os  juni  House  is  a  new  and  extensive  hotel  " 
edifice,  situated  on  the  corner  of  Main  and  St.  Paul  streets. 

The  Rochcattr  University  is  a  new  institution  of  learning, 
under  the  charge  of  the  Baptist  denomination.  Here  also  is 
situated,  on  the  north  part  of  the  city,  the  Iluusc.  of  Refuge 
for  Western  New  York,  now  containing  about  400  inmates. 
The  building  is  a  large  and  substantial  brick  edifice,  sur- 
rounded by  a  high  stone  wall. 

To  the  immense  water-power  which  Rochester  possesses,  by 
means  of  a  succession  of  falls  in  the  Genesee  River,  may  be 
justly  ascribed  her  rapid  growth  and  substantial  wealth 
There  are  now  within  the  limits  of  the  city,  and  all  using 
water-power,  21  tlouring-mills,  with  108  run  of  stones,  capable 
of  manufacturing  600,000  barrels  of  flour  annually  ;  3  woolen 
factories,  2  cotton  factories,  11  iron  founderies  and  machine 
shops,  2  brass  founderies,  3  paper-mills,  2  oil- mills,  7  saw- 
mills, 1  pail  factory,  3  pump  factories,  2  edge  tool  factories,  2 
threshing-machine  and  fanning- mill  factories,  1  chair  factory, 
2  case  factories,  2  stair  manufactories,  3  sash  factories,  4  tan- 
neries, 3  distilleries,  6  breweries,  4  tobacco  and  snuff  factories, 
ajid  4  8team-£>laniug  and  flooring  mills.    Within  the  limits  o^ 


10!J  WESTERN  TOUR. 

the  city,  a  distance  of  3  miles,  the  total  fall  of  water  in  tlie 
river  is  about  250  feet,  affording  during  most  of  the  year  an 
almost  inexhaustible  supply  of  water-power,  which  is  as  yet 
but  partly  used  for  manufacturing  purposes. 

Here  are  about  20  forwarding  establishments  connected 
with  the  trade  of  the  Erie  and  Genesoe  Valley  canals,  the 
latter  running  south  through  the  rich  valley  of  the  Genef?ee 
River.  There  is  also  a  limite'I  shipping  interest  on  the  Genesee 
River  and  Lake  Ontario.  A  great  number  of  canal  boats  have 
been  built  at  Rochester,  there  being  no  less  than  11  boat-yarda 
for  their  construction.  Railroad  cars  and  carriage-making 
are  also  extensively  carried  on  here  to  advantage. 

American  and  British  steamboats  arrive  and  depart  daily, 
during  the  season  of  navigation,  from  the  landing  on  the  north 
of  the  city,  and  from  Charlotte,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  7 
Bflfiles  distant,  to  where  a  plank  road  is  now  constructed,  aflFord- 
ing  a  most  delightful  ride  during  pleasant  weather.  Railroad 
cars  and  canal  packets  arrive  and  depart  almost  hourly. 

No  traveler  for  pleasure  should  pass  through  Rochester 
without  stopping  over  at  least  one  day  to  see  the  city  and  visit 
the  objects  of  interest  in  its  vicinity,  the  natural  and  artificial 
curiosities  being  well  worthy  of  notice.  The  most  important 
of  them  are  the  Genesee  Falls^  which  are  seen  to  great  advan- 
tage from  the  east  side  of  the  river,  a  short  distance  below  the 
railroad  bridge,  where  is  a  perpendicular  descent  of  90  feet ;  2 
miles  below  is  another  fall  of  75  feet.  The  noble  aqueduct  for 
the  enlarged  Erie  Canal  is  a  splendid  specimen  of  mason  work, 
well  worthy  of  examination.  The  above,  together  with  MoiDit 
Hope  Cemetery,  most  beautifully  situated  on  the  east  side  of 
the  River,  about  2  miles  south  of  the  city,  afford  many  points 
of  attraction,  well  worthy  the  attention  of  the  traveler. 

The  Genesee  Valley  Ca?ial  commences  at  Rochester,  and 
ascends  the  rich  valley  of  the  Genesee,  being  now  completed  a 
distance  of  88  miles,  with  a  branch  to  Dansville,  of  12  miles. 

The  Rochester  and  Genesee  Valley  Railroad  is  now  com- 
pleted to  Mount  Morris,  36  miles,  passing  through  the  village 


WESTERN   TOUR.  103 

of  ATon,  connecting  with  a  line  of  travel  to  Buffalo  on  the  west 
and  the  oity  of  New  York  on  the  east. 


The  most  noted  place  of  resort  in  the  valley  of  the  Genesee 
is  Avon  Springs,  18  miles  south  of  Rochester.  The  village  is 
delightfi^Uy  situated  about  half  a  mile  east  of  the  right  bank 
of  the  Genesee  Kiver,  and  2  miles  from  the  Genesee  Valley 
Canal,  on  an  elevated  terrace,  about  one  hundred  feet  above 
the  river,  commanding  an  extensive  prospect  of  the  rich  Genesee 
Valley  and  surrounding  country. 

Connected  with  the  village,  on  the  southwest,  are  the  justly 
famed  medicinal  springs,  giving  celebrity  to  the  place.  The 
two  principal  springs  are  distinguished  as  the  Upper  and  Lower 
Springs,  distant  from  each  other  about  80  rods.  They  possesf 
similar  properties,  differing  only  in  the  relative  quantities  of 
the  same  mineral  ingredients.  Analysis  and  experience  have 
fully  tested  the  sanative  properties  of  these  waters.  They  are 
found  peculiarly  efficacious  in  disorders  of  the  digestive  organs, 
rheumatic  complaints,  and  gout,  in  all  sorts  of  cutaneous 
affections,  and  in  every  kind  of  obstructions. 

There  are  several  well-kept  hotels,  both  at  the  village  and 
near  the  Springs.  The  most  noted  are  the  Avon  Eagle  Hotel, 
the  Avon  Hotel  or  Hosmer  House,  the  Knickerbocker  Hall, 
and  the  Spring  Hotel.  The  two  latter  are  situated  near  the 
Springs,  the  two  former  in  the  village.  The  accommodations 
for  bathing  are  also  extensive  and  handsomely  arranged,  there 
being  three  establishments,  altogether  affording  great  attrac- 
tipns  not  only  for  the  invalid  but  for  the  seeker  of  pleasure. 


'-ri 


%V.'  >    /'-  ... 


1,04.  WESTERN  TOUR. 


RAILROAD  ROUTE  FIIOK  ROi]HESTER  TO  BUFFALO. 

The  jYew  York  Central  JRai/roiid  extends  west  from  Roch- 
ester, through  the  villages  of  Churchville  end  Bergen, 
forming  the  great  eastern  and  western  thoroughfare  from  the 
.\tlantic  Ocean  to  the  Great  Lakes  of  America. 

B ATA VI A,  32  miles  west  of  Rochester,  30  east  from  Buffalo, 
and  202  from  Albany,  by  railroad  route,  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  a  plain,  through  which  floAvs  the  Tonawanda  Creek.  It  was 
incorporated  in  1823,  and  now  contains  about  3,000  inhabi- 
tants, 400  dwelling-houses,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  county 
clerk's  office,  a  State  arsnnal,  and  the  general  land  office  of  the 
Holland  Land  Company.  In  addition  to  the  New  York  Central 
Railroad,  the  Canandaigua  and  Niagara  Falls  Railroad,  and 
the  Butfalo,  New  York,  and  Erie  Railroad,  also  pass  through 
Batavia,  affording  great  facilities  to  reach  Albany,  New  York, 
Philadelphia,  etc.  Stages  run  from  Batavia  south  to  Warsaw  j 
and  north  to  Albion  and  Lockport. 

The  village  of  Attica,  11  miles  from  Batavia,  and  on  the 
Tonawanda  Creek,  is  pleasantly  situated.  It  is  an  active  place 
of  business,  containing  about  1,000  inhabitants.  The  Buffalo 
audJK'tw  York  City  Railroad  passes  through  this  villnge,  con- 
necting with  the  New  York  and  Erie  Railroad  at  Hornellsville. 


RAILROAD  ROUTE  FROM  ROCHESTER  TO  NIAGARA 
-   .         FALLS 

Brockport,  17  miles  west  of  Rochester,  and  246by  railroai 
from  Albany,  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  Erie  Canal.  It 
was  incorporated  in  1829,  and  now  contains  about  2,200  inhabi- 
tants and  300  dwelling-houses.  .    ' 

The  village  of  Holley,  5  miles  west  of  Brockport,  contains 
about  700  inhabitants.  Sandy  Creek  flows  through  this  place, 
•Ter  which  the  canal  passes  by  means  of  an  embankment,  75 


WE8TKRF   TCUR.  105* 

feet  fthove  the  bed  of  the  stream,  which  is  conveyed  under  it  by 
a  culvert. 

Albion,  on  the  Erie  Canal,  80  miles  from  Rochester,  and 
2^0  miles  from  Albany,  by  railroad  route,  \7as  incorporated  in 
1829,  and  now  contains  about  3,800  inhabitants,  600  dwelling- 
houses,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  county  clerk's  office ;  2  banking 
houses;  an  incorporated  academy,  and  Phipps'  Female  Semi- 
nary, both  in  a  flourisL'ng  condition,  to  each  of  which  are 
attached  large  brick  edifices. 

The  village  of  Gaiptks,  1  or  2  miles  north  of  Albion,  and  on 
tjie  Riiige  Road,  was  incorporated  in  1832,  and  now  containa 
60U  or  700  inhabitants. 

The  AlI'Uvial.  Way,  or  Ridge  Road,  is  a  work  of  nature, 
extending  from  the  Genesee  River,  near  Rochester,  to  the  Nia- 
gara River,  near  Lewiston.  It  is  a  gently  curving  ridge,  com- 
ppsed  of  beach-sand  and  gravel- stones,  apparently  worn  smooth 
by  the  action  of  water.  Its  general  width  is  from  6  to  8  rods, 
raised  in  the  middle,  and  the  top  presents  an  excellent  road, 
called  the  "  Ridge  Road,"  extending  upward  of  80  miles,  being 
from  6  to  10  miles  south  of  the  present  aliore  of  Lake  Ontario, 
of  which  it  once  no  doubt  formed  the  beach.  This  same  re- 
markable feature  extends  west  to  Hamilton,  C.  W,,  situated  at 
the  head  of  Lake  Ontario. 

Knowlesville,  7  miles  west  of  Albion,  is  an  incorporated 
village  on  the  line  of  the  Erie  Canal,  and  contains  about  600 
inhabitants. 

Medina,  4  miles  farther  west,  on  the  Erie  Canal,  was  incor- 
porated in  1832,  and  now  contains  about  2,800  inhabitants, 
250  dwelling-houses,  and  several  mills  and  manufacturing 
establishments. 

MiddliEport,  17  inile§  west  of  Albion,  contains  about  400 
inhabitants. 

Gasport,  5  miles  farther  west,  takes  its  name  from  several 
mineral  burning  springs  of  some  celebrity,  situated  near  the 
line  of  the  canal.     The  gas  is  used  for  domestic  purposes. 

Ihe  village  of  Lockfort  is  on  the  Erie  Canal,  25  milei 


106.  WESTERN    TOUH. 


7/ 


northeast  of  Buffalo,  and  ficm  Albany,  by  railroad  route,  286 
miles.  It  was  incorporated  in  1827,  and  now  contains  about 
llOOO inhabitants,  1,200  dwelling-houses,  a  court-house,  jail, 
and  county  clerk's  office. 

Tl.e  hydraulic  po^ver  derived  from  the  sui'plus  waters  of  the 
Ere  Canal  at  tlr's  place  is  sufficient  to  propel  at  least  800  run 
of  mill-stones,  and  is  admirably  located  for  au  extensive  manu- 
facturing town.  In  addition  to  the  Erie  Canal,  which  passes 
through  the  center  of  the  village,  the  Rochester ^  Loci> party  and 
JVia^ara  Falls  Hailroad  passes  through  this  place,  and  runs 
to  Niagara  Falls,  20  miles ;  the  Loc.kport  and  Buffalo  Railroad 
extends  a  distance  of  25  miles  to  the  city  of  Buffalo,  affording 
a  speedy  communication  ibr  travelers  visiting  the  Falls  and 
Buffalo.  Here  are  ten  combined  locks,  constracted  of  lime- 
rock,  in  the  most  finished  style  of  masonry,  to  accommodate  the 
enlarged  Erie  Canal. 

On  leaving  Lockport  for  the  West,  passengers  can  proceed  by 
railroad,  direct  to  Buffalo,  25  miles,  passing  through  Tona- 
wanda,  or  continue  on  by  direct  route  to  the  Suspension 
Bridge,  20  miles. 

At  the  Suspension  Bridge,  or  Niagara  City,  the  New  York 
Central  Railroad  cars  connect  with  the  trains  running  on  the 
Buffalo,  JViagara  Falls,  and  Lewiston  Railroad,  forming  a 
through  line  of  travel  from  Lake  Erie  to  Lake  Ontario,  on  the 
American  side  of  the  Niagara  River,  length  28  miles,  connect- 
ing with  steamers  running  on  Lake  Ontario. 

The  Erie  and  Ontario  Railroad,  on  the  Canada  side  of  the 
river,  extends  from  Chippewa  to  Niagara,  C.  W.,  length  17 
miles ;  also  connecting  with  steamers  running  to  Toronto  and 
other  ports  on  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

The  Great  Western  Railway,  of  Canada,  commencing  at  the 
Suspension  Bridge,  also  connects  with  the  New  York  Central 
Railroad,  forming  the  great  line  of  travel  to  Hamilton,  Toronto^ 
Detroit,  the  Upper  Lakes,  and  the  Far  West 


■■■'  t. 


WESTERN  TOUR.  107 

BUFFALO. 
This  city  possesses  commanding  advantages,  being  22  miles 
above  Niagara  Falls,  is  distant  from  Albany  298  miles  by  rail- 
road, and  about  360  miles  by  the  line  of  the  Erie  Canal ;  la 
N   lat.  4:lo  53',  w.  long.  78^  65'  from  Greenwich.     It  is  favor- 
ably  situated  for  commerce  at  the  head  of  Niagara  River,  the 
outlet  of  Lake  Erie,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  great  chain  of 
Upper  L'lkcs,  and  is  the  point  where  the  vast  trade  of  thc^^e 
Inland  seas  is  concentrated.     Tlie  harbor,  formed  of  Buffalo 
Creek,  lies  ncirly  cast  and  west  across  the  southern  part  of 
the  city,  and  is  separated  from  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  by  a 
peninsula  between  the  creek  and  lake.     This  harbor  is  a  very 
secure  one,  and  is  of  such  capacity,  that  although  steamboats, 
ships,  and  other  lake  craft,  and  canal-boats,  to  the  number,  in 
all,  of  from  three  to  four  hundred,  have  sometimes  been  as- 
sembled there  for  the  transaction  of  the  business  of  the  lakes, 
yet  not  one-half  part  of  the  water  accommodations  has  ever 
yet  been  occupied  by  the  vast  business  of  the  great  and  grow- 
ing West.     This  is  a  great  center  for  railroads  running  east, 
west,  and  south. 

Buffalo  was  first  settled  by  the  whites  in  1801.  In  1832  it 
was  chartered  as  a  city,  being  now  governed  by  a  mayor,  re- 
corder, and  board  of  twenty-six  aldermen.  Its  population  in 
1830,  according  to  the  United  States  Census,  was  8,668;  in 
1840,  12,213  ;  and  in  1850,  42,201.  Since  the  latter  period 
the  limits  of  the  city  have  been  enlarged  by  taking  in  the 
town  of  Black  Rock ;  it  is  now  divided  into  thirteen  wards, 
and,  according  to  the  census  of  1860,  contained  81,130  in- 
habitants, hc'i^g  now  the  third  city  in  point  of  size  in  the 
State  of  New  York. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  a  U.  States  custom-house 
and  post-office  ;  city  hall ;  court-house  and  jail ;  two  theaters, 
and  fifty  churches  of  different  denominations.  Here  are  also 
eight  banking-houses,  four  savings  banks,  and  several  fire  and 
marine  insurance  companies.  The  principal  Hotels  are  the 
Amerimn,  and  St.  James  Hotely  and  the  Mansion  House,  on  Main 
Street.  y 


RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTES  FROM  BUF- 
FALO TO  NIAGARA  FALLS,  TORONTO,  ETC. 


The  most  usual  mode  of  conveyance  from  Buffalo  to  the  Falla 
of  Niagara,  and  thence  to  Lake  Ontario,  or  into  Canada,  is  by 
the  Buffalo,  JV'iagara  Falls  and  Lewiston  Railroad,  28  milea 
in  length.  It  runs  through  Tonawanda,  11  miles;  Niagara 
Falls,  22  miles ;  Suspension  Bridge,  24  miles,  connecting  with 
the  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada,  and  terminates  at  Lewis- 
ton,  the  head  of  navigation  on  Niagara  River,  28  miles. 

American  and  Canadian  steamers  of  a  large  class  leave  Lewis- 
ton  several  times  daily,  for  different  ports  on  Lake  Ontario  and 
the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

There  is  also  another  very  desirable  mode  of  conveyance,  by 
Steamboat,  descending  the  Niagara  River,  from  Buffalo  to 
Chippewa,  C.  W.,  thence  by  the  Erie  and  Ontario  Railroad,  17 
miles  in  length ;  passing  in  full  view  of  the  Falls,  to  the  Clifton 
House,  three  miles  below  Chippewa;  Suspension  Bridge,  five 
miles ;  Queenston,  eleven  miles,  terminating  at  Niagara,  C.  W., 
thirty -five  miles  from  Buffalo. 

A.8  the  Steamboat  leaves  Buffalo  on  the  latter  route,  a  fine 

view  may  be  obiuined  of  Lake  Erie  and  both  shores  of  Niagara 

River.     On  the  Canada  side,  the  first  object  of  interest  are  t!ie 

ruins  of  old  Fort  Erie,  captured  by  the  Americans  July  3d, 

1814.    It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  opposite  the  site  of  a 

10 


110  BUFFALO    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS,    ETC. 

Strong  fortress  ■«^  hich  the  United  States  government  have  recent- 
ly erected  for  the  protectic  n  of  the  river  and  the  city  of  Buffalo. 
Waterloo,  C.  W.,  three  mil.is  below  Buffalo  and  opposite 
Black  Hock  (now  a  part  of  Buffalo),  with  which.it  is  connected 
by  a  steam-ferry,  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  west  side  of 
Niagara  River,  which  is  here  about  half  a  mile  wide.  The 
Buffalo  and  lAiUe  Huron  Railroad  runs  from  Fort  Erie.  n«Hr 
Waterloo,  to  Paris,  C.  W.,  where  it  connects  with  the  Great 
Western  Railway  of  Canada.  It  is  now  completed  to  Stratford, 
116  miles,  will  soon  be  finished  to  Goderich,  lying  on  L.  Huron. 

Grand  Island,  belonging  to  the  United  States,  is  passed  on 
the  right  in  descending  the  river.  It  is  a  large  and  valuable 
tract  of  good  land,  abounding  with  white  oak  of  a  superior 
quality 

Navy  Island,  belonging  to  the  British,  is  next  passed,  lying 
within  gunshot  of  the  mainland.  This  island  obtained  great 
notoriety  in  the  fall  and  winter  of  1 837-8,  when  it  was  occupied 
by  the  "  Patriots,"  as  they  were  styled,  during  the  troubles  in 
Canada.  The  steamer  Caroline  was  destroyed  on  the  night  of 
December  29th.  1837,  while  lying  at  Schlosser's  Landing,  on  the 
American  shore,  liaving  been  engaged  in  transporting  persons  to 
and  fi'om  the  island,  which  was  soon  after  evacuated. 

Opposite  Navy  Island,  on  the  Canada  side,4iear  Chippewa  bat- 
tle-ground, is  the  house  in  which  Capt.  Usher  resided  wlien  mur- 
dered in  1838.  It  is  supposed  he  fell  by  the  hands  of  some  of  the 
deluded  patriots,  having  been  shot  by  a  secret  foe,  while  in  his 
own  house. 

Chippewa,  20  miles  below  Buffalo  and  two  miles  above  the 
Falls,  is  on  the  west  side  of  Niagara  River,  at  the  mouth  of  a 
creek  of  the  same  name,  which  is  navigable  to  Port  Robinson, 
some  eight  or  ten  miles  west ;  the  latter  place  being  on  the  line 
of  the  Welland  Canal.  The  village  of  Chippewa  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  about  1 ,000  souls.  Steamboats  and  lake  craft  of  a  largo 
size  are  built  at  this  place  for  the  trade  of  Lake  Erie  and  the 
Upper  Lakes.  It  has  obtained  a  place  in  history  on  account  of 
the  bloody  battle  which  was  fought  near  it  in  the  war  of  1812, 
between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  The  battle  was 
fought  on  the  6th  of  July,  1814,  on  the  plains  a  short  distance 
south  of  the  steamboat  landing.  The  American  forces  were 
commanded  by  Major  Gen.  Jacob  Brown,  and  the  British,  by 
Major  General  Riall,  who,  after  an  obstinate  and  sanguinary 
fight,  was  defeated  with  wnsiderable  loss. 


BUFFALO   TO    NIAGARA    FALLS,    ETC.  Ill 

AtChipTf»;7a  commcTicos  the  railroad  extending  to  Niagara, 
at  the  moi.th  of  the  r-vcr,  a  distance  of  17  miles.  Stoamhoata 
oontiiiuo  the  lino  of  travel  from  l)oth  ends  of  this  road,  thuH  fur- 
n'sthing  an  interesting  anJ  speedy  conveyance  between  Lakea 
Erie  and  Ontario. 

On  arriving  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Fai.t.s  of  Niaoara,  the 
oars  stop  near  the  Clifton  Ifotise,  situated  near  the  ferry,  load- 
ing to  the  American  side.  The  site  of  this  house  was  chosen  as 
giving  the  best  view  of  both  the  Amoricnn  and  Canadian  or 
Horse-Shoe  Falls,  which  are  seen  from  the  piazzas  and  front- 
windows. 

In  addition  to  the  Falls,  there  are  other  points  of  attraction 
on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river.  The  collection  of  curiosities  at 
the  Museum,  and  the  Camera  Obscura,  which  gives  an  exact  and 
beautiful,  though  miniature  image  of  the  Falls,  are  well  worthy 
of  a  visit.  The  Burning  Spring,  two  miles  above  the  Falls,  is 
also  much  frequented ;  and  the  rides  to  the  battle-grounds 
in  this  vicinity  make  an  exhilarating  and  very  pleasant  ex- 
cursion.    For  further  description  of  Falls,  see  page  211. 

Drummondsville,  one  mile  west  of  the  Falls,  and  situated 
on  Lundy^s  Lane,  is  celebrated  as  the  scene  of  another  sanguin- 
ary engagement  between  the  American  and  British  forces, 
July  25,  IF  14. 

The  following  is  a  brief,  though  correct  account  of  the  engage- 
ment. *'  On  the  afternoon  of  the  above  day,  while  the  American 
army  was  on  their  march  from  Furt  George  toward  Fort  FJrir, 
ascending  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  their  rear  guard,  under 
the  immediate  command  of  Gen.  Scott,  was  attacked  by  the 
advanced  guard  of  the  British  army  under  Gen.  Kiall,  the 
British  having  been  reinforced  after  their  defeat  at  Chippewa, 
on  the  5th  of  the  same  month.  This  brought  on  a  general  con- 
flict of  the  most  obstinate  and  deadly  character.  As  soon  as 
attacked,  Gen.  Scott  advanced  with  his  division,  amov:.nting  to 
t  bout  3,000  men,  to  the  open  ground  facing  the  heights  occupied 
by  the  main  British  army,  where  were  planted  several  heavy 
pieces  of  camion.  Between  eight  and  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
on  the  arrival  of  reinforcements  to  both  armies,  the  battle  be- 
came general  and  raged  for  several  hours,  with  alternate  success 
on  both  sides ;  each  army  evincing  the  most  determined  bravery 
and  resistance.  The  command  of  the  respective  forces  was  now 
assumed  by  M.aj.  Gen.  Brown  and«Lieut.  Gen.  Drummond,  each 
having  under  his  command  a  well-disciplined  army.  The  bravo 
(American)  Col.  Miller  was  ordered  to  advance  and  seize  the 
artillery  of  the  British,  which  he  effected  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet  in  the  most  gallant  manner.  Gen.  Kiall,  of  the  English 
army,  was  captured,  and  the  possession  of  the  battle-ground  con- 
tested until  near  midnight,  when  1,700  men  being  either  killed 


112  BUFFAIO    TO    NIAOARi    FALLS.    KTC. 

or  woun<l(»rl,  the  conflicting:  armies,  nmonnfinj?  altojifcthcr  to 
about  n.OOO  Htronp,  ceased  tlie  dciMlly  conflict,  and  for  a  time 
the  bloody  field  was  left  unoccupied,  except  by  the  (lend  nnd 
wounded.  When  the  IJritish  discovered  that  the  Americans  had 
encamped  one  or  two  miles  distant,  they  returned  and  occupied 
their  former  position.  Thus  ende<l  one  of  the  most  bloody  con- 
flicts that  occurred  during  the  last  war;  and  while  each  party 
boasted  a  victory,  alto<rether  too  dearly  bought,  neither  was  dis- 
posed to  renew  the  conflict." 

Clifton  is  a  neW  and  flourishing  village,  situated  at  the 
western  termination  of  the  Great  Western  Railway,  where  it 
connects  with   the  Suspension  Bridge. 

QuEFNSTON,  situated  seven  miles  below  the  Falls,  and  about 
the  same  distance  above  the  entrance  of  Niagara  Kiver  into  Lake 
Ontario,  lies  directly  opposite  the  village  of  Lewiston,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a  suspension  bridge  SHO  feet  in  length. 
It  contains  about  500  inhabitants,  CO  dwelling-houses,  one 
Episcopal,  one  Scotch  Presbyterian,  and  one  Baptist  church, 
four  taverns,  four  stores,  and  three  warehouses.  This  place  is 
also  celebrated  as  being  the  scene  of  a  deadly  strife  between  the 
American  and  British  forces,  Oct.  13, 1812.  The  American  troops 
actually  engaged  in  the  fight  were  commanded  by  Gen.  Solomon 
Van  Rensselaer,  and  both  the  troops  and  their  commander 
greatly  distinguished  themselves  for  their  bravery,  although 
ultimately  overpowered  by  superior  numbers.  In  attempting  to 
regain  their  own  side  of  the  river  many  of  the  Americans 
perished,  the  whole  loss  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners 
amountir.g  to  at  least  1,000  men. 

Major  G"n.  Brock,  the  British  commander,  was  killed  in  the 
middle  of  the  fight,  while  leading  on  his  men.  A  new  monument 
stands  on  the  heights,  near  where  he  fell,  erected  to  his  memory. 
The  first  monument  was  nearly  destroyed  by  gunpowder,  April 
17.  1840 ;  an  infamous  act,  said  to  have  been  perpetrated  by  a 
person  concerned  in  the  insurrection  of  1837-38. 

Brock's   new   Monument  was  commenced  in   1853,  and 

finished  in  1866 ;  being  185  feet  high,  ascended  on  the  inside  by 

a  spiral  staircase  of  235  stone  steps.     The  base  is  40  feet  scpiare 

and  35  feet  in  height,  surmounted  by  a  tablet  35  feet  high,  with 

historical  devices  on  the  four  sides.     The  main  shaft,  about  100 

feet,  is  fluted  and  surmounted  by  a  Corinthian  capital,  on  which 

is  placed  a  colossal  figure  of  Major  General  Brock,  1 8  feet  in 

height.     This  beautiful  structure  cost  £10,000  sterling,  being 

entirely  constructed  of  a  cream-colored  stone  quarried  in  the 


id   r         '?(•  .i 


""J    'Hh 


w.'av>^-^«- 


Bbook'b  Mowumbnx — Queenaton  Heights. 


BUFFALO    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS,    BTC.  113 

Ticinity.     A  raasaivo  stone  wall,  80  foet  square,  adorned  with 
niilitiiry  figures  and  tropliies  at  the  corners,  U7  feet  in  height, 
surrounds  the  monument,  leaving  space  for  a  grass-plot  and 
walk  <m  the  inside  of  the  inclosare. 
The  following  is  the  inscription : 

Upper  Canada  has  dedicated  this  Monument 

to  Iho  iiU'Miory  of  tlio  Into 

M«Jor-0«'iiernl  8lr  Imaao  Bkock,  K.B., 

Provisional  Lleut.-Govornor  uiid  Cotiiniaixlt/r  of thi;  Forcfs  In  thin  Province, 

wliosr  ri'nmlns  ar<»  dcpoHitcd  in  tlio  vault  l)»'n«'ath. 

Opposing  tln>  invadinu;  enemy  tie  fell  in  notion,  near  the  IIelj<ht«, 

on  the  IHtli  Ootolwr,  1^1 ',  in  the  4.'M  year  of  lii-s  n^e, 

Bevered  nnd  lamented  by  the  people  whom  he  >{overnetl,  and  deplored  by 

the  Hoverelgn  to  whose  service  his  life  had  been  devoted. 

Tiie  last  words  of  Major  General  Brock,  when  he  fell  mortally 
wounded  by  a  musket-shot  through  the  left  breast,  wore,  '*  Never 
mind,  my  boys,  the  death  of  one  man — I  have  not  long  to  live  *' 
Thus  departed  one  of  the  many  noble  spirits  that  were  sacrificed 
on  this  frontier  during  the  war  of  1812. 

The  village  of  Niagara  is  advantageously  situated  on  the 
Canada  side,  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  into  Lake  Ontario, 
directly  opposite  Fort  J\^ia^ara,  on  the  American  side.  It  con- 
tains about  3,tX)0  inhabitants;  a  court-house  and  jail;  one 
Episcopal,  one  Presbyterian,  one  Methodist,  and  one  Roman 
Catholic  church ;  ten  hotels  and  taverns,  and  twenty  stores  of 
different  kinds ;  also,  an  extensive  locomotive  and  car  factory. 
This  is  the  most  noted  place  in  Canada  West  for  building  steam- 
boats and  other  craft  navigating  Lake  Ontario.  Here  is  a  dock- 
yard with  a  marine  railway  and  foundry  attached,  capable  of 
making  machinery  of  the  largest  description,  and  giving  employ- 
nient  to  a  great  number  of  men.  It  is  owned  by  the  "  Niagara 
Dock  Company.'*    Steamers  leave  daily  for  Toronto,  etc. 

Fort  George,  situated  a  short  distance  south  or  up-stream 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  now  in  ruins.  This  was  the 
scene  of  a  severe  contest  in  1813,  in  which  the  Americans  were 
victorious.  A  new  fort  has  been  erected  on  the  point  of  land  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  directly  opposite  old  Fort  JVingnra  on 
tho  American  side.  The  new  fortification  is  called  Fort  Massa- 
8aue;a, 

The  whole  frontier  ou  the  Canada  side,  from  Fort  George  to 
Port  Erie,  opposite  Buffalo,  was  occupied  by  the  American  army 
in  1814.  when  occurred  a  succession  of  battles  of  the  most  de- 
termined and.  brilliant  character. 


NIAGARA   RIVER, 

ITS  RAPIDS,  FALLS,  ISLANDS,  AND  ROMANTIC  SCENERT. 


"  Majestic  stream !  what  river  rivals  thee, 
Thou  child  of  many  lakes,  and  sire  of  one — 
Lakes  that  claim  kindred  with  the  all-circling  sea- 
Large  at  thy  birth  as  when  thy  race  is  run ! 
Against  what  great  obstructions  hast  thou  won 
Thine  august  way— the  rock-formed  mouutain-plain 
Has  opened  at  thy  bidding,  and  the  steep 
Bars  not  thy  passage,  for  the  ledge  in  vain 
Stretches  across  the  channel — thou  dost  leap 
Sublimely  down  the  height,  and  urge  again 
Thy  rock-embattled  course  on  to  the  distant  main.'* 

This  most  remarkable  and  romantic  stream,  the  outlet  of 
Lake  Erie,  through  which  flows  all  the  accumulated  waters  of 
the  Upper  Lakes  of  North  America,  very  appropriately  forma 
the  boundary  between  two  great  countries,  the  British  province 
of  Upper  Canada  on  the  one  side,  and  the  State  of  New  York, 
the  "  Empire  State"  of  the  Union,  on  the  opposite  side.  In  its 
whole  course,  its  peculiar  character  is  quite  in  keeping  with 
the  stupendous  Cataract  from  which  its  principal  interest  is 
derived. 

The  amount  of  water  passing  through  this  channel  is  im- 
mense ;  from  a  computation  which  has  been  made  at  the  outlet 
of  Lake  Erie,  the  quantity  thus  discharged  is  about  twenty 
millions  of  cubic  feet,  or  upward  of  600,000  tons  per  minute, 
all  of  which  great  volume  of  water,  20  miles  below,  plunges 
over  the  Falls  of  Niagara. 

The  Niagara  River  commences  at  Bird  Island,  nearly  opposite 
the  mouth  of  Buffalo  harbor,  and  passes  by  the  site  of  old  Fort 
Erie  and  Waterloo  on  the  Canada  side.  At  the  latter  place  a 
steam  ferry-boat  plies  across  the  river  to  Black  Rock,  now  foi*m- 
ing  a  part  of  tue  city  of  Buffalo.    It  is  here  proposed  to  con* 


NIAGARA    RIVER,  115 

Btruct  a  railroad  bridge  across  the  stream,  about  1,800  feet  in 
width. 

Squaw  Island  and  Strawberry  Island  are  both  small 
islands  lying  on  the  American  side  of  the  stream,  near  the  head 
of  Grand  Island  The  river  is  here  used  in  part  for  the  Erie 
Canal,  a  pier  extending  from  Squaw  Island  to  Bird  Island, 
forming  a  large  basin  called  Black  Rock  Harbor. 

Gkand  Island,  attached  to  Erie  Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  a  large  and 
important  body  of  land,  about  ten  miles  long  from  north  to 
south,  and  seven  miles  wide.  This  island  is  partly  cleared  and 
cultivated,  while  the  larger  portion  is  covered  with  a  large 
growth  of  oaks  and  other  forest  trees. 

The  ship  or  steamboat  channel  runs  along  the  bank  of 
Grand  Island  to  nearly  opposite  Chippewa,  where  the  whole 
stream  unites  before  plunging  over  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  being 
again  separated  at  the  head  of  Goat  Island.  From  this  point 
the  awe-struck  traveler  can  scan  the  quiet  waters  above,  and 
the  raging  rapids  below,  preparing  to  plunge  over  the  cataract. 

Cayuga  Island  and  Buckhorn  Island  are  small  bodies 
of  land  belonging  to  the  United  States,  situated  immediately 
below  Grand  Island. 

Navy  Island,  lying  opposite  the  village  of  Chippewa,  18 
miles  belpw  the  head  of  the  river,  is  a  celebrated  island  belong- 
ing to  the  Canadians,  having  been  taken  possession  of  by  the 
sympathizing  patriots  in  1837,  when  a  partial  rebellion  occurred 
in  Upper  and  Lower  Canada. 

ToNAWANDA,  11  miles  below  Buffalo,  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  Tonawanda  Creek,  opposite  Grand  Island.  The  Erie  Canal 
here  enters  the  creek,  which  it  follows  for  several  miles  on  its 
course  toward  Lockport.  A  railroad  also  runs  to  Lockport, 
connecting  with  the  JVew  York  Central  Railroady  extending 
to  Albany.  A  ship  canal  is  proposed  to  be  constructed  from 
Tonawanda  to  some  eligible  point  on  Lake  Ontario,  thus  form- 
ing a  rival  to  the  Welland  Canal  of  Canada. 

Schlosser's  Landing,  two  miles  above  Niagara  Falls  village, 
is  a  noted  steamboat  landing,  opposite  Chippewa,  from  whence 


116  KIAGARA    RIVER. 

the  steamer  Caroline  was  cut  adrift  by  the  British  and  de« 
stroyed,  by  being  precipitated  over  the  Falls  duriojg  the  Ca- 
nadian rebellion,  December  29th,  1837. 

Thk  Rapids. — Below  Navy  Island,  between  Chippewa  and 
Schlosser,  the  rirer  is  nearly  three  miles  in  width,  but  soon 
nairows  to  one  mile,  when  the  Rapids  commence,  and  continue 
for  about  one  mile  before  reaching  the  edge  of  the  precipice  at 
the  ITorse-Shoe  Fall. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  Rapids  "  the  bed  of  the  river 
declines,  the  channel  contracts,  numerous  large  rocks  heave  up 
the  rolling  surges,  and  dispute  the  passage  of  the  now  raging 
and  foaming  floods.  The  mighty  torrent  leaping  down  succes- 
sive ledges,  dashing  over  opposing  elevations,  hurled  back  by 
ridges,  and  repelled  from  shores  and  islands — plunging,  boiling, 
roaring — seems  a  mad  wilderness  of  waters  striving  against  its 
better  fate,  and  hurried  on  to  destruction  by  its  own  blind  and 
reckless  impetuosity.  Were  there  no  cataract,  these  Rapids 
would  y^t  make  Niagara  the  wonder  of  the  world." 

Ikis,  or  Goat  Island,  commences  near  the  head  of  the 
Rapids,  and  extends  to  the  precipice,  of  which  it  forms  a  part, 
sepnrating  the  American  Fall  from  the  Canadian  or  Horse-Shoe 
Fall.  It  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  eighty  rods  wide,  and 
contains  over  sixty  acres  of  arable  land,  being  for  the  most  part 
covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  forest  trees  of  a  variety  of 
species,  and  native  plants  and  flowers.  A  portion  of  the  island, 
however,  has  been  cleared  off,  and  a  garden  inclosed,  in  which 
are  some  excellent  fruit  trees,  and  a  variety  of  native  and 
foreign  planes  and  flowers,  and  a  fish-pond.  The  island  is  re- 
markably cool,  shady,  and  pleasant,  and  is  an  object  of  unceas- 
ing admiration  from  year  to  year.  Comfortable  seats  and 
arbors  are  placed  at  the  most  interesting  points,  where  the 
visitor  can  sit  at  ease  and  enjoy  the  beautiful  and  sublime 
views  presented  to  his  sight— often  entranced  by  a  deafening 
roar  of  mighty  waters  in  their  descent,  often  accompanied  by 
changing  rainbows  of  tV.e  most  gorgeous  description. 


NIAGARA    RIVER.  117 

NIAGARA. 

WRITTElf    BY    L.YDIA   H.    SIGOURNEY. 

Flow  on  forever,  in  thy  glorious  robe 
Of  tferror  and  of  beauty ;  God  hath  set 
His  rainbow  on  thy  forehead,  and  the  cloud 
Mantles  around  thy  feet,  and  He  doth  give 
Thy  voice  of  thunder  power  to  speak  of  Him 
Eternally;  bidding  the  lip  of  man 
Keep  silence,  and  upon  tliy  rocky  altar 
Pour  incense  of  awe-struck  praise. 

Goat  Island  Bridge. — The  Niagara  Falls  Gazette  gives 
the  following  description  of  this  new  structure : 

*'  This  bridge  across  the  east  branch  of  the  Niagara  River  is 
situated  in  the  Rapids,  about  sixty  rods  above  the  Cataract,  on 
the  site  of  the  old  wooden  bridge.  It  is  3G0  feet  long,  and  con- 
sists of  four  arches  of  ninety  feet  span  each,  supported  between 
the  abutments  of  three  piers.  The  piers  above  water  are  built 
of  heavy  cut  stone,  and  are  twenty  two  feet  long  and  six  feet 
wide,  tapering  one  foot  in  the  eight.  The  foundations  are 
formed  of  foot-square  oak  timber,  strongly  framed  and  bolted 
together  in  cribs,  filled  with  stone,  and  covered  with  timber  at 
the  surface  of  the  water.  These  timber-foundations  are  pro- 
tected against  wear  and  injury  from  ice  by  heavy  plates  of  iron, 
and  being  always  covered  with  water,  will  be  as  durable  as  the 
stone. 

"  The  superstructure  is  of  iron,  on  the  plan  of  Whipple's 
iron-arched  bridge.  The  whole  width  is  twenty-seven  feet, 
affording  a  double  carriage-way  of  sixteen  and  a  half  feet,  and 
two  foot-ways  of  five  and  a  fourth  feet  each,  with  iron  railings. 
The  arches  are  of  cast  iron,  and  the  chords,  suspenders,  and 
braces  of  wrought  iron.  All  the  materials  used  in  the  construc- 
tion are  of  the  best  quality,  and  the  size  and  strength  of  all  the 
parts  far  beyond  what  are  deemed  necessary  in  bridges  exposed 
to  the  severest  tests. 

*'  This  substantial  and  beautiful  structure,  spanning  a  branch 
of  this  majestic  river  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids,  and  overlook- 
ing the  cataract,  is  worthy  of  the  site  it  occupies,  and  affords 
another  instance  of  the  triumph  of  human  ingenuity  over  the 
obstacles  of  nature. 

"  The  islands  connected  by  this  bridge  with  the  American 
shore  are  the  property  of  Messrs.  Porter,  and  constitute  the 
most  interesting  features  in  the  scenery  surrounding  the  cata- 
ract.   This  bridge  has  been  erected  by  them  tu  facilitate  com- 


118  NIAGARA    RIVER. 

munication  with  these  interesting  localities  not  otherwise  ac- 
cessible." 

This  is  a  toll-bridge,  every  foot  pasnonger  being  charged  25 
cents  for  the  season,  or  single  crossing. 

There  are  upward  of  thirty  islands  and  islets  in  the  Niagara 
River  or  Strait,  above  the  cataract.  Most  of  those  not  described 
are  small,  and  scarcely  worthy  of  enumeration,  although  those 
immediately  contiguous  to  Goat  Island  form  beautiful  objects  in 
connection  with  the  rushing  and  mighty  waters  by  which  they 
are  surrounded,  Bath  Island,  Brig  Island,  ampin's  Island, 
and  Bird  Island,  all  situated  immediately  above  the  American 
Fall,  are  reached  by  bridges. 

When  on  Goat  Island,  turning  to  the  right  toward  the  Falls, 
the  first  object  of  interest  is  Hogg's  Back,  a  point  of  land  fac- 
ing the  American  Fall, — Bridge  to  Adington  Island  immediately 
above  the  Cave  of  tlie  Winds,  160  feet  below.  Sam.  Patch's 
Point  is  next  passed  on  the  right,  from  which  he  took  a  fearful 
leap  some  years  ince.  IBiddle's  Stairs  descend  to  the  water's 
edge  below  and  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  which  are  annually 
visited  by  thousands  of  visitors.  Terrapin  Bridge  and  Terrapin 
Tower  aiford  a  grand  view  of  the  Canadian  or  Horse-Shoe  Fall 
and  Rapids  above  the  Falls.  Three  Sister  Islands  are  contiguous 
to  Goat  Island,  on  the  American  side.  Passing  around  Goat 
Island  toward  the  south,  a  grand  view  is  afforded  of  the  rivei 
and  rapids  above  the  Canadian  and  American  Falls. 


CATARACT  OF  NIAGARA. 

"  Shrine  of  Omnipotence !  how  vast,  how  grand, 
How  awful,  yet  how  beautiful  thou  art ! 
Pillar'd  around  thy  everlasting  hills, 
Robed  in  the  drapery  of  descending  floods, 
Crowned  by  the  rainbow,  canopied  by  clouds 
That  roll  in  incense  up  from  thy  dread  base, 
Hid  by  their  mantling  o'er  the  vast  abyss 
Upon  whoae  verge  thou  standest,  whence  aacenda 
The  mighty  anthem  of  thy  Maker's  praise, 
Hyu.n'd  in  eternal  thundera  /" 


CATARACT    OF   NIAGARA. 


119 


^TAGARA  is  a  word  of  Indian  origin — the 

orthography,  accentuation  and  meaning 

of  which  are  variously  given  by  different 

authors      It  is  highly  proba])le  that  this 

diversity  might  be  accounted  for  and 

explained    by  tracing   the   appellation 

through  the  dialects  of  the  several  tribes 

of  aborigines  wlio  formerly  inhabited  the 

neighboring  country.     There  is  reason 

to  believo,  iiovvever,  that  the  etymon  belongs  to  the  language  of 

the  Iroquois,  and  signifies  the  '*  Thunder  of  Waters.'''' 

"  When  the  traveler  first  arrives  at  the  cataract,  he  stands 
and  gazes,  and  is  lost  in  admiration.  The  mighty  volunio  of 
■water  Avhich  forms  the  outlet  of  the  great  Lakes  Superior, 
Michigan,  Huron,  and  Erie,  is  here  precipitated  over  a  preci- 
pice 100  feet  high,  with  a  roar  like  that  of  thunder,  which  may 
be  heard,  in  favorable  circumstances,  to  the  distance  of  fifteen 
miles,  though,  at  times,  the  Falls  may  be  nearly  approached 
without  perceiving  much  to  indicate  a  tremendous  cataract  in 
the  vicinity.  In  consequence  of  l>end  in  the  river,  the  princi- 
pal weight  of  water  is  thrown  on  the  Canadian  side,  down  what 
is  called  the  Horse-  Shoe  Fall,  which  name  has  become  inappro- 
priate, as  the  edges  of  the  precipice  have  ceased  to  be  a  curve, 
and  forms  a  moderately  acute  angle.  Near  the  middle  of  the 
fall,  Goat  Island,  containing  75  acres,  extends  to  the  brow  of 
the  precipice,  dividing  the  river  into  two  parts ;  and  a  small 
projecting  mass  of  rock  at  a  little  distance  from  it,  toward  the 
American  shore,  again  divides  the  cataract  on  that  side.  Goat 
Island,  at  the  lower  end,  presents  a  perpendicular  mass  of  rocks, 
extending  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  of  the  precipice.  A  bridge 
has  been  constructed  from  the  American  shore  to  Bath  Island, 
and  another  connects  the  latter  with  Goat  Island,  and  a  tower  is 
erected  on  the  brow  of  the  Horse- Shoe  Fall,  approached  from 
Goat  Island  by  a  short  bridge,  on  which  the  spectator  seems  to 
stand  over  the  edge  of  the  mighty  cataract,  and  which  afl^brds  a 
fine  view  of  this  part  of  it.  The  distance  at  the  fall  from  the 
American  shore  to  Goat  Island  is  65  rods ;  across  the  front  of 
Goat  Island  is  78  rods ;  around  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall,  on  the 
Canadian  side,  144  rods ;  directly  across  the  Horse-Shoe,  74 
rods.  The  height  of  the  fall  near  the  American  shore  is  163 
feet;  near  Goat  Island,  on  the  same  side,  158  feet;  near  Goat 
Island,  on  the  Canada  side,  154  feet.    Table  Rock,  a  shelving 


120  CATARACT  OF  NIAGARA. 

projection  on  the  Canadian  side,  at  the  o<lgc  of  the  precipice,  ia 
150  feet  high.  Thia  place  is  generally  thought  to  prosont  the 
finest  view  of  the  Falls;  though  if  the  spectator  will  visit  the 
tower  on  the  opposite  side  on  Goat  Island,  at  sunrise,  when  the 
whole  cavity  is  enlightened  by  the  sun,  and  the  gorgeous  bow 
trembles  in  the  rising  spray,  he  can  not  elsewhere,  the  world 
over,  enjoy  such  an  incomparable  scene.  A  covered  stairway 
on  the  American  side  descends  from  the  top  to  the  bottom  of  the 
precipice. 

"  It  has  been  computed  that  100  million  tons  of  water  are  dis- 
charged over  the  precipice  every  hour.  The  Rapids  commence 
about  a  mile  above  the  Falls,  and  the  water  descends  57  feet  be- 
fore it  arrives  at  the  cataract.  The  view  from  the  bridge  to 
Goat  Island,  of  the  troubled  water  dashing  tumultuously  over 
the  rocks  of  the  American  full,  is  terrific.  While  curiosity  con- 
stitutes an  attribute  of  the  human  character,  these  falls  will  be 
frequented  ])y  admiring  and  delighted  visitors  as  one  of  the 
grandest  exliibitious  in  nature 

"  TJiis  stupendous  cataract,  situated  in  N.  lat.  43°  6,'  and  W. 
long.  2°  0'  from  Wasliington,  is  twenty-two  miles  north  from  the 
efllux  of  the  river  at  Lake  Erie,  and  fourteen  miles  south  of  its 
outlet  into  liake  Ontario.  The  whole  length  of  the  river  is 
therefore  thirty-six  miles,  its  general  course  is  a  few  points  to 
the  west  of  north.  Though  commonly  called  a  river,  this  por- 
tion of  the  St.  Lawrence  is,  more  properly  speaking,  a  strait, 
connecting,  as  above  mentioned,  the  Lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  and 
conducting  the  suparfluous  waters  of  the  great  seas  and  streams 
above  though  a  broad  and  divided,  and  afterward  compressed, 
devious,  and  irregular  channel  to  the  latter  lake,  into  which  it 
empties — the  point  of  union  being  about  forty  miles  from  the 
western  extremity  of  Iiake  Ontario. 

"  The  climate  of  the  Niagara  is  in  the  highest  degree  health- 
ful and  invigorating.  The  atmosphere,  constantly  acted  upon 
by  the  rushing  water,  the  noise  and  the  spra/y,  is  kept  pure,  re- 
freshing, and  salutary.  There  are  no  stagnant  pools  or  marshes 
near  to  send  abroad  their  foetid  exhalations  and  noxious  mias- 
mas, poisoning  the  air  and  producing  disease. 

'•  Sweet-breathing  herbs  and  beautiful  wild  flowers  spring 
up  spontaneously  even  on  the  sides,  and  in  the  crevices  of  the 
giant  rocks ;  and  luxuriant  clusters  of  firs  and  other  stately 
forest  trees  cover  the  islands,  crown  the  cliffs,  and  overhang 
the  banks  of  Niagara.  Here  are  no  mosquitoes  to*  annoy,  no 
reptiles  to  alarm,  and  no  wild  animals  to  iitimidate,  yet  there 
is  life  and  vivacity.  The  many-hued  butterfly  sips  ambrosia 
from  the  fresh  opened  honey -cup— birds  carol  their  lays  of  love 
among  the  spray- starred  branches ;  and  the  lively  squirrel 
skips  chattering  from  tree  to  tree.    Varieties  of  water-fowl,  at 


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OARARAOT   OF    NIAGARA.  121 

ecrtain  seasons  of  the  year,  aport  among  the  rapids,  the  sea-ffiill 
pl.iys  aroumi  the  precipice,  aiitl  the  eagle  — the  banner  hiriTof 
Ireedoni— hovers  above  the  cataract,  pliuiics  his  gray  pinions  in 
its  curling  mists,  and  makes  his  home  among  the  gtaut  tirs  of 
its  inaccuisiblo  islands 

**  No  place  on  the  civilized  earth  offers  such  attractions  and 
inducements  to  visitors  as  Niagara,  au«i  they  can  never  be  lully 
known  except  to  those  who  see  and  study  them,  from  the  utter 
impossibility  of  describing  such  a  scene  as  this  wonderl'ul 
cataract  presents.  When  motion  can  be  expressed  by  color,  there 
will  be  some  hope  of  imparting  a  faint  idea  of  it ;  but  until  that 
can  b^done,  Niagara  must  reuiaiu  uudescribcd." 

Below  the  Falls,  the  first  objects  of  interest  are  the  Ferry 
Stairs  and  Point  View  on  the  American  side ;  while  on  the  opposite 
side  is  a  ferry  and  steamboat  landing,  where  carriages  are 
usually  to  be  found  to  convey  passengers  to  the  Clifton  House, 
Table  Hock,  and  other  places. 

About  JjO  rods  below  the  ferry  stairs  is  the  spot  where  the 
hermit  Abbot  was  drowned.  Half  a  mile  below  t)»e  latter  point 
is  Catlin's  Cave,  formei  ly  much  frequented. 

The  steamboat  landing  for  the  Maid  of  the  Mist  is  situated 
on  the  American  shore  two  miles  below  the  Falls  and  about  half 
a  mile  above  the  Suspension  Bridge.  This  steamer,  the  second 
boat  of  the  same  name,  first  commenced  running  as  an  experi- 
ment boat  in  1848;  since  then  she  has  run  annually  without 
an  accident  of  any  kind.  The  first  trip  was  made  on  September 
18th,  184G,  by  Capt.  II.  Filkins,  who  with  his  small  crew  were 
the  only  persons  on  board,  except  an  intrepid  Canadian  who  was 
desirous  of  crossing  the  river  with  a  horse,  they  both  being 
safely  landed  on  the  Canadian  shore. 

The  Suspension  Bhidgk,  the  greatest  artificial  curiosity  in 
America,  is  situated  two  miles  and  a  half  below  the  Falls,  where 
has  recently  sprung  into  existence  JMagara  City^  or  better 
known  as  the  Snspensio7i  Bri(/fj;e,  on  the  American  side,  and 
Clifton  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river,  here  being  about  800 
feet  in  width,  with  perpendicular  banks  of  325  feet. 

The  Whirlpool  and  RapidSy  one  mile  below  the  Bridge,  are 
terrific  sights  of  great  interest,  and  well  worthy  a  vis^": 


122  CATARACT  OF  NIAGARA. 

The  Devil's  Hole,  one  mile  farther  dowiiyis  also  a  point  of 
great  attraction,  together  with  the  'Bloody  Run,  a  small  stream 
■where  a  detachment  of  English  soldiers  were  precipitated  in 
their  flight  from  an  attack  by  Indiana  during  the  old  French 
war  in  1759.  An  amphitheater  of  high  ground  spreads  around 
and  perfectly  incloses  the  valley  of  the  Devirs  Hole,  with  the 
exception  of  a  narrow  ravine  formed  by  Bloody  Run — from 
wliich,  against  a  large  force,  there  is  no  escape,  except  over 
the  precipice.  The  Ice  Cave  is  another  object  of  interesit  con- 
nected with  the  Devil's  Hole. 

The  Rapids  below  the  Whirlpool  are  the  next  object  of  attrac- 
tion ;  then  Queenston  Heights  and  Brock's  Monument  on  the  Ca- 
nadian side,  and  the  Suspension  Bridge  at  Lewlston;  altogether 
forming  objects  of  interest  sufficient  to  fill  a  well-sized  volume. 

The  Niagara  Kiv"  is  navigable  from  Lewiaton  to  its  mouth  at 
Fort  Niagara,  a  farther  distance  of  seven  miles,  or  fourteen 
below  the  Palls  of  Niagara. 


MONT-EAGLE  HOUSE,  AT  THE  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE, 
NIAGARA,  NEW   YORK. 

This  Hotel,  now  open  for  the  reception  of  guests,  has  been 
thoroughly  refitted  and  improved,  and  will  be  found  unequal- 
ed  as  a  summer  resort,  for  coolness,  health,  and  comfort. 
Every  window  and  piazza  in  the  front  and  west  side  of  the 
Hotel  commands  a  fall  view  of  the  great  "  Horse-Shoe"  and 
♦'American  Falls,"  "Goat  Island,"  "Table  Rock,"  and  the 
**.  Railroad  Suspension  Bridge."  On  the  Tower,  170  feet  high, 
'  the  scenery  is  most  imposing,  and  from  a  grove  in  the  garden 
you  overlook  the  '  *  Whirlpool' '  and  the  wildest  portion  of  the 
lower  "  Rapids." 


CATARACT    OF    NIAGARA.  123 

THE  PROPOSl^D  NIAGARA  FALLS  GUNBOAT  CANAL. 

Gen.  Stuaut,  in  his  report  on  the  Gunboat  Canal  between 

tide  water  aiul  the  Lakes,  estimates  the  cost  of  a  Ship  Canal 

around  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  105  wide  on  the  surface,  and  95 
fict  wide  on  the  bottom,  with  twelve  feet  depth  of  water, 
having  locks  275  feet  long  by  45  feet  wide  in  the  chamber, 
caj)al)le  of  ])assing  a  gunboat  of  1,250  tons  burden,  at 
$5,958,947  25  with  single  locks,  and  $7,538,529  with  double 
locks.  This  is  the  average  cost  of  five  lines  surveyed  lawt 
year.    The  average  length  of  lines  is  8  miles  and  3,070  feet. 


The  village  of  Niagara  Falls,  Niagara  Co.,  N.  Y. ,  is  sit- 
uated on  the  east  side  of  Niagara  Riyer,  in  the  immediate  vi- 
cinity of  the  grand  Cataract,  22  miles  from  Buifalo  and  303 
miles  from  Albany  by  railroad  route.  No  place  in  the  Union 
exceeds  this  favored  spot  as  a  fashionable  place  of  resort  dur- 
ing the  summer  and  fall  months,  when  hundreds  of  visitors 
may  be  seen  every  day  flocking  to  Goat  Island,  or  points  con- 
tiguous to  the  Rapids  and  Falls.  The  village  contains  several 
large  hotels  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors,  the  most  noted 
of  which  are  the  Cataract  House  and  the  International  Hotel ; 
the  Monteagle  Hotel,  situated  two  miles  below  the  Falls,  near 
the  Suspension  Bridge,  and  the  Clifton  House,  on  the  Canada 
side,  are  all  alike  popular  and  well-kept  hotels ;  there  are  five 
churches  of  different  denominations ;  15  stores,  in  many  of  which 
are  kapt  for  sale  Indian  curiosities  and  fancy  work  of  different 
kinds.  The  water-power  here  afforded  by  the  descending 
stream,  east  of  Goat  Island,  is  illimitable.  A  paper-mill,  a 
flouring-mill,  two  saw-mills,  a  woolen  factory,  a  furnace  and 
machine  shop,  together  with  other  manufacturing  establish- 
ments, here  use  the  water-power  so  bountifully  supplied.  The 
population  is  about  3,000. 

The  railroads  centering  at  the  Falls  are  the  BuffalOy  JViagara 
Falls  and  Lewiston  Railroad^  the  JVew  York  Central  Rail- 
roadi  and  the  Canandaigua  and  JViagara  Falls  Railroad , 
the  latter  road  connecting  with  the  JVew  York  and  Erie  Rail- 
road, and  forming  with  other  roads  a  direct  route  to  Phila 
delphia,  Baltimore,  and  Washington 


124  CATARACT  OF  NIAGARA. 

An  omnibus  line  runs  hourly  from  the  •^llnge  of  Niagara 
Falls  to  Niagara  City,  or  Suspension  Bridge,  during  the  sum- 
mer months,  and  thence  to  tlie  Clifton  House  and  Table  Kock 
)n  the  Canada  side,  affording  a  cheap  mode  of  visiting  both 
eides  of  Niagara  River. 

Niagara  City,  situated  two  miles  below  the  Falls,  at  the 
Svspension  Bridge^  is  a  new  and  flourisliing  place.  Here  is  lo- 
cated the  Monteagle  Hotel,  and  other  public  houses,  together 
with  several  stores  and  manufactui-ing  establishments. 


DIMENSIONS  OF  SUSPENSION  BKIDGE. 

Length  of  span  from  center  to  center  of  towers .  822  feet. 

Height  of  railroad  track  above  water 250     " 

Height  of  towers  above  rock  on  American  side. .  88     '* 

Height  of  towers  above  rock  on  Canada  side. ..  .  78     *'• 

Height  of  towers  above  floor  of  railway 60     '* 

Number  of  wire  cables 4 

Diameter  of  each  cable 10  inches. 

Number  of  wires  in  each  cable 3,659 

Weight  of  superstructure 750  tons. 

Base  of  towers 16  feet  sq 

Top  of  towers 8      " 

Depth  of  anchor  pits  below  surface  of  rocks .  80  feet. 

WEIGHT   OF   THE    MATERIALS    IN    THE    BRIDGE. 

Timber  of  different  kinds 919,130  lbs 

Wrouglit  iron  and  suspenders 113,120     " 

Castings 44,322     «* 

Iron  rails 66.740     " 

Cable  between  towers 535,400     " 


Total 1,678,722 


« 


The  Great  Western  Raihvay  of  Canada y  which  unites  with 
ih(^  New  York  Central  Railroad,  terminating  on  the  American 
side  of  the  river,  here  commences  and  extends  westward  through 
Hamilton,  London,  and  Chatham  to  Windsor,  opposite  Detroit, 
Mich.,  forming  one  of  the  great  through  lines  of  travel  fron) 
Boston  and  New  York  to  Chicago  and  the  Far  West. 

This  road  also  furnishes  a  speedy  route  of  travel  to  Toronto, 
Collingwood,  etc. 


NIAGARA    FALLS.  125 

BATE  OP  CHARGES  AT  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

The  following  are  the  rate  of  charges  usually  exacted  from 
persons  visiting  Niagara  Falls — but,  unfortunately,  impositiona 
are  often  practiced  by  unprincipled  individuals,  at  this,  as  well 
as  other  fashionable  resorts : 

AMERICAN    SIDE. 

Board,  from  one  to  two  and  a  half  dollars  per  day. 
For  services  of  guide,  from  one  to  three  dollars 
For  guide  behind  the  Central  Fall,  and  visiting  the  Cave  of 
the  Winds,  one  dollar. 
For  crossing  bridge  to  Goat  Island,  25  cents. 
Fare  to  and  from  Suspension  Bridge,  12|  cents. 
Fare  for  crossing  Suspension  Bridge,  25  cents. 
Fare  to  the  Whirlpool,  50  cents. 
For  use  of  steps  or  cars  on  Inclined  Plane,  10  cents. 
Ferriage  to  Canada  side,  18|  cents. 
Omnibus  fare  and  steam  ferriage  to  Canada  side,  25  cents. 

CANADA   SIDE. 

Board,  from  one  to  two  and  a  half  dollars  per  day. 

Visiting  Barnett's  Museum,  Camera  Obscura,  and  Pleasure 
Grounds,  25  cents. 

For  guide  and  use  of  dress  to  pass  behind  the  Fall  at  Table 
Rock,  one  dollar. 

Carriage  fare  from  ferry  to  Clifton  House,  6^  cents. 

Carriage  fare  to  Whirlpool,  Lundy's  Lane  Battle  Ground, 
Burning  Spring,  and  back  to  Ferry,  50  to  75  cents. 

Guide  to  Brittle  Ground  and  visiting  Monument,  25  cents. 

Carriage  fare  to  Brock's  Monument  on  Queenston  Heights, 
one  dollar. 

Carriage  fare  per  day,  four  dollars. 

The  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls,  on  both  sides  of  the 
river,  are  unrivaled,  and  no  visitor  should  lose  the  opportunity 
to  visit  all  the  objects  of  attraction  above  and  below  the  mighty 
Cataract 


126  BUFFALO    TO    LEWI8T0N,    ETC. 

Lewiston,  Niagara  Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  delightfully  situated  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Niagara  River,  seven  miles  below  the  Fulls, 
and  seven  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river  where  it  falls  into 
Lake  Ontario.  It  is  an  incorporated  village  and  contains  about 
1,000  inhabitants,  four  churches,  an  incorporated  academy;  a 
custom-house,  it  being  the  port  of  entry  for  the  district  of 
Niagara ;  three  hotels,  nine  stores,  and  three  storehouses. 
Here  is  a  very  convenient  steamboat  landing,  from  which 
steamers  depart  daily  for  Oswego,  Ogdensburgh,  etc.,  on  the 
American  side,  and  for  Toronto,  Kingston,  etc.,  on  the  Canadian 
side.  The  Buffalo,  Niagara  Falls  and  Lewiston  Railroad  ter- 
minates at  this  place,  where  is  a  magnificent  Suspension  Bridge 
thrown  across  the  Niagara  connecting  Lewiston  with  Queenston, 
Canada.  The  mountain  ridge  here  rises  about  300  feet  above 
the  river,  forming  many  picturesque  and  romantic  points  of 
great  interest.  On  the  American  side  of  the  river  stands  the 
site  of  old  Fort  Gray,  erected  during  the  war  of  1812,  while  on 
the  Canadian  side  are  situated  Queenston  Heights,  surmounted 
by  a  beautiful  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Gen.  Brock, 
of  the  British  army,  who  was  here  killed  in  a  sanguinary  con- 
flict,  October  13th,  1812.  From  this^ height  a  most  extensive 
and  grand  view  is  obtained  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  surround- 
ing country. 

YouNGSTowN,  six  miles  below  Lewiston,  and  one  mile  above 
old  Fort  Niagara  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  a  regular  steam- 
boat landing.  The  village  contains  about  800  inhabitants; 
three  churches,  two  public  houses,  five  stores,  and  two  flouring- 
mills,  besides  other  manufacturing  establishments.  A  railroad 
is  nearly  completed,  extending  from  this  place  to  Niagara  Falls, 
being  a  continuation  of  the  Canandaigua  and  Niagara  Falls 
B .".ilroad,  now  completed  to  the  Suspension  Bridge.  A  terry 
plies  from  Youngstown  to  the  village  of  Niagara  on  the  Canada 
side  of  the  river,  here  about  half  a  mile  in  width.  This  is  the 
first  landing,  on  the  American  side  of  the  river,  after  leaving 
the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Ontario 


LAKE  ONTARIO. 

Tms  Lake,  the  most  eastern  of  the  great  chain  of  Lakes  of 
North  America,  receives  the  surplus  waters  of  Niagara  River; 
it  is  190  miles  in  length,  and  GO  miles  in  extreme  breadth; 
being  aliout  480  miles  in  circumference.  The  boundary  line 
between  the  British  Possessions  and  the  United  States  runs 
through  the  middle  of  the  lake,  and  so  continues  down  the  St. 
Lawrence  to  the  45th  degree  of  north  latitude,  where  the  river 
enters  Canada. 

The  lake  is  navigable  throughout  its  whole  extent  for  vessels 
of  the  largest  size ;  and  it  is  said  to  be  in  some  places  upward 
of  600  feet  in  depth.  Its  surface  is  elevated  234  feet  above  the 
Atlantic,  and  lies  330  feet  lower  than  Lake  Erie,  with  which  it 
is  connected  by  the  Niagara  River  and  by  the  Welland  Canal 
in  Canada.  It  has  also  been  proposed  to  construct  a  ship  canal 
on  the  American  side.  The  trade  of  Lake  Ontario,  from  the 
great  extent  of  inhabited  country  surrounding  it,  is  very  con- 
siderable, and  is  rapidly  increasing.  Many  sail  vessels  and 
splendid  steamers  are  employed  in  navigating  its  waters,  which, 
owing  to  its  great  depth,  never  freezes,  except  at  the  sides, 
where  the  water  is  shallow ;  so  that  its  navigation  is  not  so  ef- 
fectually interrupted  by  ice  as  some  of  the  other  large  lakes. 
The  most  important  places  on  the  Canadian  or  British  side  of 
Lake  Ontario  are  Kingston,  Coburg,  Port  Hope,  Toronto,  Ham- 
ilton, and  Niagara;  on  the  American  shore,  Cape  Vincent, 
Sacket's  Harbor,  Oswego,  Charlotte  or  Port  Genesee,  and  Lew- 
iston  on  Niagara  River.  This  lake  is  connected  with  the  navi- 
gable waters  of  the  Hudson  River  by  means  of  the  Oswego  and 
Erie  canals.  It  receives  numerous  streams,  both  from  the 
Canadian  and  the  American  sides,  and  abounds  with  a  great 
variety  of  fish  of  an  excellent  flavor.  The  bass  and  salmon,  in 
particular,  have  a  high  reputation,  and  are  tai?:en  in  large 
quantities  The  principal  Bays  are  Burlington,  Irondequoit, 
Great  and  Little  Sodus,  Mexico,  Black  River,  Chaumont,  and 
the  picturesque  watjw  of  the  Bay  of  Quinte. 


128  LAKE    ONTARIO 

The  passage  across  Lake  Ontario  in  calm  weather  is  most 
agreeable.  At  times  both  shores  are  hidden  from  view,  when 
nothing  can  be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the  vessel  but  an  abyss 
of  waters.  The  refractions  which  sometimes  take  place  in 
Bummer,  are  exceedingly  beautiful.  Islands  and  trees  appear 
turned  upside  down  ;  and  the  white  surf  of  the  beach,,  trans- 
lated aloft,  seems  like  the  smoke  of  artillery  blazing  away  from 
a  fort.* 


*  Bbatttifxtl  Mirage.— That  grand  phenomenon  occasionally  witnessed 
on  the  Laltes— mirage— was  seen  from  the  steamer  Bay  State,  on  a  recent 
trip  from  Niagara  to  Genesee  Kiver  (August,  1S56),  with  more  than  or 
dinary  splendor.  The  Lockport  Journal  says  it  occurred  just  as  the  sun 
was  setting,  at  which  time  some  twelve  vessels  were  seen  reflected  on  the 
horizon,  in  an  inverted  position,  with  a  distinctness  and  vividness  truly 
surprising.  The  atmosphere  was  overcast  with  a  thick  haze  such  as  pre 
cedes  a  storm,  and  of  a  color  favorable  to  represent  upon  the  darkened 
background,  vividly,  the  full  outlines  of  the  rigging,  sails,  etc.,  as  perfect 
m  if  the  ships  themselves  were  actually  transformed  to  the  aerial  canvas. 
The  unusual  phenomenon  lasted  until  darkness  put  an  end  to  the  scene. 


EOUTE   ABOUND  LAKE   ONTARIO. 

Miles. 

Kingston,  C.  W.,  to  Toronto,  via  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  160 

Toronto  to  Hamilton,  C.  W.,  Toronto  and  Hamilton  R.R.  38 

Hamilton  to  Suspension  Bridge,  via  Great  Western  R.R. .  43 

Suspension  Bridge  to  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  via  JV.  V.  Central 

Railway 76 

Rochester  to  Oswego,  N.  Y.,  by  stage 70 

Oswego  to  Richland,  N.  Y.,          "        , 35 

Richland  to  Cape  Vincent,  via  Watertown  and  Rome  R.R.  55 

Cape  Vincent  to  Kingston,  C.  W.,  via  Wolfe  Island 12 

Total  Miles 489 

Note. — The  extreme  length  of  L.  Ontario  is  190  miles,  from 
Cape  Vincent  to  Hamilton,  C.  W. ;  being  about  four  times  as 
long  as  its  greatest  width.  The  circuit  of  the  water  is  esti- 
mated at  480  miles.     Sis  Lake  ErtCx  page  163. 


STEAMBOAT    ROUTES. 


129 


AMERICAN  STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FROM  LEWISTON  TO 
03WEQ0,  KINGSTON,  AND  OQDENSBURGII. 


Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

Lkwiston 0 

Youngstown 6 

Aias^ara,  Can 1-7 

Charlotte  i     or     Port 

Genesee 80-87 

Pvltneyville 20-107 

Sodus  Point 10-117 

OSWEGO 30-147 

SLoney  Point  and  Island  33-180 
Snc.kcVs  Harbor 12-192 


Porta,  etc.  Miles 

OcDENSnURGH 0 

Morristown II 

Broc/fville,  Can 1-12 

Thousand  Islands. . . 

Alexandria  Bay 22-34 

Clayton,    or     French 

Creel: 12-46 

Grand,  or  Wolfe  Island 

Kingston,  Can 24-70 

SackeVs  Harbor 38-108 


Grand,  or  Wolfe  Island  28-220     Stoney  Point  and  Island  12-1 20 


Kingston,  Can 10-230 

Tliousand  Islands. . . 
Clay  tony    or    French 

Creek 24-254 

Alexandria  Bay. ....  12-266 

Brockville,  Can 22-288 

Morristown 1-289 

Ogdensburgh 11-300 


Oswego 33-153 

Sodus  Point 30-183 

Pultneyuille 10-193 

Charlotte,     or     Port 

Genesee 20-213 

JViagara,  Can 80-293 

Youngstown . .     1-294 

Lewiston 6-300 


UsTTAL  Time  from  Lewiston  to  Ogdensburgh,  via  Oswego  and 
Kingston,  28  hours. 

Usual  Time,  via  Toronto  and  Cape  Vincent,  22  hours. 
Cabin  Fare,  $5  50  (including  meals).     Deck  Faro,  $2  50. 


STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FROM  LEWISTON  TO  TORONTO  AND 
OGDENSBURGH,  via  EXPRESS  LINE. 

Porta,  etc.                            Miles.        Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

Lkvviston 0     Ogdensburgh 0 

Niagara 7     Brockville,  Caix, 11 

Toronto,  Can 42-49     Clayton^  or    French 

Point  Peter  and  Light  1 28-177             Creek 84-45 

Duck  Island 30-207     Cape  Vinc knt 13 -^8 

Tibbets  Poia :  and  L.    19-226    Tibbet's  Point 8-61 


130 


STEAMBOAT    R0UTF8. 


Port«,  etc.  Miles. 

Cape  Vincent 3-229 

C '  lay  ton  t  or   French 

'  Creek 13-242 

hroc/cviUe,  Can 34-276 

Ogdensburgh 11-297 


Ports,  etc.  Milei. 

Duck  Islanfl V;>-SO 

Point  Peter  :.  nd  Light  80-1 1 0 

Toronto 128-2;J8 

Niagara 42-280 

Lkwiston 7-287 


Usual  Fare,  from  Ogdensburgh  to  Montreal,    $3  50 

Through  Fare,  from  Lewiston  to  Montreal,  9  00 

••         "      from  Buffalo  to  Montreal,  10  00 


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TRIP  FROM  LEWISTON  TO  OSWEGO,  KINGSTON, 
AND  OGDKNSBURGIl. 


DuRiNo  the  season  of  navigation,  steamers  of  a  large  class, 
belonging  to  the  Ontario  and  St.  Lnwrctice  Steamboat  Com- 
jtani/,  leave  Lcwiston  daily,  following  the  south  or  American 
shore  to  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  thenco  to  Ogdensburgh, 
on  the  St  Lawrence  Uivei 

On  leaving  ths  wharf  at  Lewiston,  a  most  beautiful  and  ex- 
tensive view  is  afforded  of  Niagara  Uiver,  the  lower  Suspension 
Bridge,  Brook's  Monument  on  Queenston  Heights,  and  the  vil- 
lages of  Lewiston  and  Queenston,  with  the  Mountain  Ridge  in 
the  background.  When  are  associated  the  stirring  historical 
events  connected  with  this  vicinity,  no  spot  exceeds  it  in  interest. 
The  banks  of  the  river  are  hero  elevated  from  40  to  50  feet, 
with  l>old  shores,  while  the  water  rushes  onward  into  Lake 
Ontario,  the  receptacle  of  all  the  waters  of  the  Upper  Lakes. 

FoKT  Niagara,  seven  miles  below  Lewiston,  lying  on  the 
American  shore  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River,  is  well 
worchy  of  a  visit  in  connection  with  the  ruins  of  Fort  (Jeor^Cy 
on  the  Canadian  shore,  near  the  village  of  Niagara.  In  1679, 
M.  De  Salle,  the  explorer  of  the  Mississippi,  in  the  service  of 
Finance,  inclosed  the  spot  on  which  the  fort  was  here  built  in 
1725,  by  palisades.  In  1759  it  was  taken  by  the  British,  under 
Sir  William  Johnson,  in  whose  hands  it  remained  until  1796, 
when  it  was  evacuated  and  given  up  to  the  United  States.  On 
the  19th  of  December,  V  13,  it  was  again  taken  by  the  British 
by  surprise;  and  in  March,  1815,  again  surrendererl  to  the 
Americans.  This  old  fort  is  as  much  noted  for  being  the  theater 
of  tyranny  and  crime  as  for  the  scenes  of  military  exploits. 
While  in  the  hands  of  the  French,  there  is  no  doubt  of  its  hav- 
ing been  at  times  used  as  a  prison.  In  its  close  and  impreg- 
nable dungeons,  where  li^t  was  not  admitted,  for  many  years 


134      LEWI8T0N    TO    OSWEGO    AND    OODENSDUROn. 

there  remained  clear  traces  of  the  ready  instrnments  for  exe- 
cution or  for  murder.  During  the  war  of  the  Revolution  it  was 
the  head-quarters  of  all  that  was  barbarous  and  unrelenting 
and  cruel ;  this  being  the  chief  rendezrous  of  a  savago  horde 
that  carried  death  and  destruction  into  the  remote  American 
settlements.  Of  late  years,  the  abduction  of  William  Morgan, 
who  was  taken  from  the  jail  in  Canandaigua,  and  conveyed 
more  than  100  miles  through  a  populous  country,  and  lodged 
in  the  magazine  at  Fort  Niagara,  where  he  was  kept  tlireo  or 
four  dayg,  and  then  inhumanly  drowned — has  justly  tended  to 
continue  its  reputation  for  being  the  scene  of  tyranny  and 
murder.   . 

On  passing  out  of  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River,  and  reach- 
ing the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Ontario,  a  deeply  interesting  view 
is  afforded  of  the  town  of  Niagara  and  Fort  Niagara,  situated 
on  opposite  sides  of  the  river,  while  in  the  distance  may  be  seen 
Brock's  Monument,  rising  nearly  500  feet  above  the  waters  of 
the  lake,  being  eight  or  ten  miles  distant. 

The  steamer  now  pursues  an  easterly  course  in  running  for 
Charlotte,  or  Port  Genesee,  80  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Niagara 
River.  The  shores  of  the  lake  of  a  clear  day  are  generally  in 
eight,  presenting  an  elevated  and  bold  appearance  for  many 
iriles.  Eighteen  Mile  Creek,  Thirty  Mile  Creek,  and  Oak 
Orchard  River  are  passed  in  succession;  at  the  mouth  of  each 
there  are  harbors  and  small  settlements.  Braddock's  Point 
is  a  bold  headland  ten  miles  west  of  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee 
River. 

Charlotte,  or  Port  Genesee,  80  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
Niagara  River,  and  60  miles  west  from  Oswego,  is  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  Genesee  River,  seven  miles  by  railroad  below  the 
city  of  Rochejricr,  it  being  the  outport  for  that  place.  It  is 
a  port  of  entry  possessing  a  safe  harbor,  being  protected  by  two 
long  government  piers,  on  one  of  which  is  located  a  light ;  there 
is  also  a  light-house  on  the  mainland.  The  village  contains 
about  400  inhabitants,  two  churches,  three  hotels,  four  stores, 
four  warehouses,  one  steam  elevator,  on!  steam  saw-mill,  and 


LKWI8T0N    TO    08WE00    AND    OODKNSDUIlOlf .         135 

an  extensive  brick-ynrd.  American  and  British  stoamors  mn 
direct  from  Charlotte  to  Cobourg,  Port  Hope,  Toronto,  etc.,  on 
the  Canada  side  of  the  lake  ;  also  to  Oswego,  Sac>ket*s  Harbor, 
etc.,  on  the  American  side,  all  conneoling  at  Charlutto  with 
railroad  cars  for  Kochcstor. 

The  Falls  of  'he  Qencsce,  near  Rochester,  are  well  worthy 
attention.  The  banks  of  the  river  iraraodiately  above  Charlotte 
rise  from  50  to  150  foet  in  height, presenting  a  fina  appoirjince. 
The  river  is  navigable  for  five  or  six  miles  to  the  first  full  at 
Carthage,  within  the  city  bounds  of  Ilochostcr ;  thon  other  falls 
occur,  the  principal  and  most  interesting  being  near  the  center 
of  the  city,  it  extending  on  both  sides  of  the  stream.  The 
water-power  here  aflFordod  is  very  great,  being  used  to  a  great 
extent  in  propelling  flour-mills,  saw-mills,  eto. 

Genesee  River,  a  deeply  interesting  anl  romantic  stream, 
rises  in  Potter  Co.,  Pa.,  on  the  great  table- land  of  Western 
Pennsylvania,  interlocking  with  some  of  the  head  sources  of 
the  Alleghany  and  west  branch  of  the  Susquohmna  R'.vcr;  it 
then  pursues  a  north  course  to  the  New  York  State  line,  thence 
through  the  county  of  Allegany ;  then  by  many  short  turnings 
through  the  rich  and  fertile  valley  of  the  Oeno33e,  which  ex- 
tends through  Monroe  County,  where  it  falls  into  Lake  Ontario, 
six  miles  below  the  city  of  Rochester.  Its  whole  course  is  about 
145  miles.  Near  its  mouth,  within  the  present  city  limits  of 
Rochester,  are  two  or  three  important  falls,  known  as  the 
Genesee  Falls  ;  within  the  distance  of  three  miles  there  being 
an  estimated  descent  of  22G  feet ;  the  great  falls  at  Rochester 
are  1)6  feet,  at  Carthage  76,  an  intermediate  one  of  20,  and  the 
rest,  rapids  or  small  falls;  altogether  aifordlng  an  immense 
amount  of  hydraulic  power,  which  is  used  to  a  great  extent, 
particularly  at  the  Upper  Falls,  in  propelling  flouring-milla, 
and  different  kinds  of  manufacturing  establishments.  From 
the  landing  at  Carthage,  which  constitutes  a  part  of  the  city 
of  Rochester,  there  is  a  steamboat  navigation  to  Charlotte,  or 
Port  Genesee,  a  distance  of  four  miles,  where  is  a  good  harbor 
communicating  with  Luke  Ontario.     From  the  head  of  tho 


13*6      LKWISTON    TO    OSWROO    AND    0GDENS13URGH. 

rapids  above  Rochester  it  is  navigable  daring  high  water  fcr  a 
considerable  distance,  passing  through  a  rich  ;ind  interesting  , 
region  of  country,  celebrated  for  its  fertility.  This  stream  now 
«>uni»iiutes  the  main  feeder  of  the  Genesee  Valley  CanaL  which 
runs  parallel  to  it  for  the  greater  part  of  its  length  through 
the  State.  There  are  also  important  falls  on  this  river,  both  in 
Allegany  and  Livingston  counties,  where  are  to  be  found  some 
of  its  most  interesting  features.  In  the  town  of  Portage,  Alle- 
gany Co.,  "  there  are  three  distinct  falls  on  the  river,  respec- 
tively GO,  90,  and  110  feet,  within  the  space  of  two  miles,  each 
diiFering  in  character,  and  each  having  peculiar  beauties. 
Although  the  cascades  are  highly  admirable,  they  are  almost 
disregarded  in  the  wonder  and  fear  caused  by  the  stupendous, 
perpendicular  walls  of  the  river,  rising  to  400  feet  in  height* 
and  extending  along  the  stream  for  three  miles,  with  almost  as 
much  regularity  as  if  constructed  by  art.  To  this  great  depth 
the  river  has  worn  its  bed  in  the  solid  rock,  in  turns  as  short 
and  graceful  as  if  winding  through  the  softest  meadow." 

After  leaving  Charlotte  for  Oswego  the  steamer  passes  Pult-  ; 
neyoille  (occasionally  i^topping),  Great  Sodus  Bay  and  Little 
Sodus  Bay,  running  within  sight  of  the  south  shore ;  the  lake 
here  presenting  an  irregular  coast-line. 

Grkat  Sodus  B\y  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  affording  a 
secure  harbor  for  lake  craft,  being  from  one  to  three  miles 
\fide  and  five  miles  long.  The  fishing  is  here  good,  as  well  as 
in  all  the  bays  along  the  south  shore  of  the  lake. 

Sodus  Point,  Wayne  Co.,  N.  Y.,  situated  at  the  entrance  of 
Great  Sodus  Bay,  is  a  port  of  entry,  with  a  good  harbor,  and , 
contains  a  church,  a  public  house,  two  stores,  a  steam  saw-mill, 
and  about  300  inhabitants. 

Lit  I'LE  Sodus  Bay,  14  miles  east  of  Great  Sodus,  is  another 
important  body  of  water.     "  At  Little  Sodus,  in  high  winds,  ' 
vessels  can  often  come  within  the  protection  of  Long  Point  on 
one  side,  and  the  protecting  shores  west,  between  it  and  Big 
Sodus,  and  ride  out  the  storm  in  the  indented  shore  of  the  lake, ' 
and  can,  when  the  itQp^oveiQaLents  to  LiUle  Sodu»  harbor  bx% 


LEWI8T0N    TO    OSWEGO    AND    OGDENSBUROH.        137 

completed,  enter  the  bay  with  ease,  and  take  refuge  thera. 
This  fact  gives  great  advantages  to  Little  Sodus  Bay,  as  it 
makes  It  accessible  at  all  times.'* 

The  City  of  Oswego,  36  miles  north  of  Syracuse  by  railroad, 
is  advantageously  situated  on  both  sides  of  Oswego  River,  at  its 
entrance  into  Lake  Ontario.  It  is  a  port  of  entry,  was  char- 
tered in  1848,  being  divided  into  four  wards.  In  1855  it  con- 
tained 16,000  inhabitants,  1,500  dwelling-houses,  two  Presby- 
terian, two  Episcopal,  two  Baptist,  two  Methodist,  two  Roman 
Catholic,  one  Universalist,  and  one  African  church,  besides  a 
Bethel  congregation ;  a  court-house  and  jail,  a  custom-house, 
four  banking  houses,  two  savings'  banks;  a  gas  company,  a 
female  seminary,  and  orphan  asylum.  There  are  several  well- 
kept  hotels ;  the  Munger  House  and  the  Hamilton  House  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  and  the  Niagara  House  on  the  west  side, 
are  the  most  frequented  by  pleasure  travelers.  The  Pardee 
House  is  a  new  and  commodious  hotel  which  is  nearly  com- 
pleted, situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  near  the  steamboat 
landing. 

The  Oswego  and  Syracuse  Railroad^  36  miles  in  length,  con- 
nects this  place  with  the  Central  Railroad  of  New  York,  while 
another  railroad  is  being  constructed  on  the  east  aide  of  the 
Oswego  River,  to  run  to  Syracuse  and  connect  with  the  Syra- 
cuse and  Binghamtou  Railroad,  thus  forming  another  direct 
route  to  the  cities  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  and  the  coal 
region  of  Pennsylvania.  The  Oswego  Canal  alao  connects  with 
the  Erie  Canal  at  Syracuse,  altogether  aflfordi ng  great  facilities 
for  trade  and  commerce,  in  connection  with  the  lake  naviga- 
tion and  water  privilege.  Here  are  now  in  operation  15  flour- 
ing-mills,  with  84  run  of  stones,  making  8,400  barrels  of  flour 
per  day  when  in  full  operation ;  ten  elevators  capable  of  eleva- 
ting 88,000  bushels  of  grain  per  hour,  with  storage  room  for 
2,000,000  bushels.  These  huge  edifices  are  so  arranged  as  tj 
vinload  and  load  vessels  with  great  dispatch. 

The  Oswego  Starch  Factory ^  owned  by  an  incorporated., 
body,  was  erected  in  1848,  since  which  large  additions 


138      LEWISTON   TO    OSWEGO    AND    OGDENRBl  ROH. 

made.  The  entire  front  of  the  building  is  no"^  510  feet,  five 
Btories  high,  extending  back  over  the  river  250  feet ;  it  is  capa- 
ble of  manufacturing  twelve  millions  pounds  of  corn  starch  per 
year,  consuming  some  600,000  bushels  of  corn  for  the  purpose, 
and  giving  employment  to  300  persons.  In  addition  to  the 
above  are  two  steam-engine  and  machine  works,  two  iron  and 
brass  foundries,  one  cotton-mill,  besides  several  other  mills  and 
factories. 

-  The  quantity  of  water  flowing  in  the  Oswego  River  at  ordin- 
ary high  water  is  700,000  cubic  feet  per  minute,  at  low  water 
200,000.  Fall  at  the  two  lower  dams  in  the  city,  86  feet, 
affording  altogether  an  immense  and  reliable  water-power. 

The  number  of  vessels  which  arrive  and  depart  annually 
from  this  port  is  very  large;  t.iere  being  here  owned  eight 
steamers  and  propellers  and  about  100  schooners,  averaging 
over  100  tons  burden,  besides  a  large  number  of  canal  boats. 
The  harbor  is  capacious  and  safe,  being  well  protected  by  two 
large  stone  piers,  constructed  by  the  United  States  government. 
On  the  end  of'  the  west  pier  is  situated  a  light-house ;  about 
half  a  mile  above  are  two  bridges  extending  across  the  river, 
600  feet  in  length.  An  extensive  forwarding  business  is  done 
at  this  place  by  means  of  lake,  river,  and  canal  navigation ; 
goods  passing  through  from  New  York  to  Oswego,  and  thence 
over  the  CoUingwood  route,  or  through  the  Welland  Canal  to 
the  Upper  Lakes. 

Oswego  now  ranks  as  one  of  the  gi  oatest  grain  markets  in 
the  world,  and  will  no  doubt  continue  to  increase  with  the 
growth  and  production  of  the  Western  States  and  Canada 
The  lumber  trade  is  also  very  great,  immense  quantities  being 
shipped  from  Canada  to  this  port,  and  re-shipped  to  Eastern 
markets. 

The  impulse  imparted  to  the  commerce  of  Oswego  by  the  late 
Reciprocity  Treaty,  which  went  into  force  October.  1854,  is 
very  great,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  following  returns  made  from 
official  figures : 


LEWISTON    TO   OSWEGO    AND   OGDENSBUROH.       139 

1854.  1605. 

Value  of  Foreign  Imports $2.8<)0,918        $6.1 39,74^ 

«*       Exports 3,734,168  5,870,020 

Total $6,695,086       $12,010,663 

Here  it  will  be  seen  that  the  trade  with  Canada  nearly 
dbubled  in  the  first  year  under  the  operation  of  the  above 
treaty.  The  domestic  or  coastwise  trade  is  also  constantly  and 
rapidly  increasing. 

One  of  the  Steamers  of  the  Ontario  and  St.  Lawrence  Steam- 
boat Company  leaves  Oswego  diiily  for  Sacket's  Harbor,  Kings* 
ton,  C.  W.,  and  Ogdensburgh,  connecting  with  steamers  running. 
to  Montreal,  and  Rouse's  Point,  via  the  Northera  Railroad  of 
New  York. 

A  steamer  also  leaves  Oswego  daily,  for  Rochester,  Niagara, 
C.  W.,  and  Lewiston,  connecting  with  steamers  for  Toronto,  etc. 


RAILROAD   AND   STEAMBOAT   ROUTE  FROM   SYRACUSE  Ta 
NIAGARA  FALLS,  via  OSWEGO  AND  LEWISTON. 

Thi.s  route,  during  the  season  of  navigation  on  Lake  Ontario, 
is  a  most  interesting  line  of  travel,  affording  the  tourist  a  fin6> 
opportunity  of  viewing  the  scenery  pe  uliar  to  Lake  Ontaria 
and  Niagara  River. 

The  Oswego  and  Syracuse  Railroad,  35  miles  in  length,  run» 
along  the  west  side  of  Onondaga  Lake  to  the  Seneca  River,  which 
is  passed  near  Baldwinsville,  the  first  stopping-place  after 
leaving  Syracuse.  From  thence  the  road  runs  north  on  the 
west  side  of  Oswego  River,  passing  opposite  to  the  village  of 
FuLTOi*,  11  miles  from  the  city  of  Oswego.  Passenger  cars 
nBuali;^  leave  Syracuse  and  Oswego  three  times  daily. 

Ameiican  steamers  leave  Oswego  daily  for  Sacket's  Harbor, 
Kingston,  Canada,  Ogdensburgh,  etc.,  in  the  morning,  on  tha 
AErivai  of  the  cars  from  Syracuse;  while  in  the  afternoon  9 


140       LEWISTON    TO    OSWEGO   AND   OODENSBURGH. 

steamer  leaves  for  Rochester,  Levriaton,  etc.,  running  up  tlie 
lake.  Passengers  passing  through  Oswego  are  afforded  a  hasty 
glance  of  the  city,  the  harbor,  and  Fort  Ontario,  the  letter 
being  located  on  the  east  shore  of  the  river  at  its  entrance  into 
Lake  Ontario. 


DISTANCES  AND  FARE  BETWEEN  SYRACUSE  AND  NI>.a/EA 
FALLS,  via  OSWEGO  AND  LEWISTON. 

Stopping  Places.       Miles.      Fare.      Slopping  Places.       Miles.     ?  are. 

Syracuse 0  Niagara  Falls.  .     0 

OswKGo 35  $1  00  Lewiston 6  $0  50 

PultneyviUe.' 75  —  Niagara,  C.W. .. .   14  — 

CuARLOTTKjOrPort  Charlotte,  or  Port 

Genesee 100  —              Genesee 88  — 

Niagara,  C.W...  174  —  PultneyviUe 113  — 

Lkwistont 182  —  Oswego 153  — 

Niagara  Falls.  .188  4  00  Syracuse 188  4  00 

On  resuming  the  trip  from  Oswego  to  Sacket's  Harbor,  the 
steamer  runs  in  a  northerly  direction  oflf  Mexico  Bay,  being  a 
large  expanse  of  water  at  the  east  end  of  Lake  Ontario,  where 
lies  Port  Ontario,  at  the  mouth  of  Salmon  River.  On  thia 
Stream  is  situated  one  of  the  most  romantic  falls  in  the  country. 

Salmon  River  rises  in  Lewis  Co.,  and  flows  west  through 
Oswego  Co.  into  Lake  Ontario;  discharging  its  waters  into 
Mexico  Bay,  at  the  village  of  Port  Ontario.  This  is  a  fine  and 
durable  stream,  having  a  tolerably  good  harbor  at  its  mouth, 
and  is  boatable  during  high  water  to  the  Falls  in  Orwell,  a  dis- 
tance of  14  miles.  "  The  Falls  of  Salmon  River  may  be 
classed  among  the  principal  natural  curiosities  of  the  country. 
The  current  is  gentle  above  for  six  or  more  miles,  then  two 
miles  of  rnpids,  and  at  the  falls  drops  almost  perpendicular 
107  feet.  At  high  water  the  sheet  is  250  feet  in  width,  but  at 
low  water  it  is  narrowed  down  to  about  half  that  extent.  The 
rookv  strata  seem  to  be  composed  of  slate  stone  and  granite,  or 
gneiss,  and  the  height  of  the  banks  immediately  above  the  fall 
is  variously  estimated  at  from  70  to  90  feet ;  below  it  is  said 


LEWISTON    TO    OSWEGO    AND    OODENSBUROH.       141* 

that  tlie  walls,  perpendicular  rock,  are  about  200  feet.  At  th# 
foot  of  the  cataract  there  is  very  deep  water,  abounding  in  fina^ 
fiah,  such  as  salmon,  trout,  etc."  ,  i.i 

Grkat  Stoney  Island  and  other  islands  are  passed  as  ther 
Btearaer  approaches  Black  River  Bay,  which  affords  the  most 
capacious  and  snfe  harbor  on  Lake  Ontario.  Here  enters  Black 
River,  an  important  stream,  which  rises  many  jnilea  to  the  east- 
ward, interlocking  with  the  waters  of  the  Mohawk  and  other 
tributaries  of  the  Hudson  River. 

Sackkt's  Harbor,  45  miles  north  of  Oswego,  and  distant 
38  miles  from  Kingston,  Canada,  possesses  one  of  the  best  and- 
most  secure  harbors  on  Lake  Ontario,  being  situated  on  Black 
Biver  Bay,  ten  miles  below  Watertown,  with  which  place  it  iS' 
80on  to  be  connected  by  a  railroad.     It  was  an  important  naval. 
and  military  station  during  the  war  of  1812,   with  Great 
Britain;  it  being  the  rendezvous  of  the  American  fleet  on  Lake- 
Ontario.     Here  now  lies  a  large  war  vessel  under  cover,  which 
was  commenced  at  the  above  period,     Madison  Barracks,  gar- 
risoned by  United  States  troops,  is  handsomely  situated  near 
the  steamboat  landing,  being  in  full  view  from  the  water. 

This  place  is  an  important  pott  of  entry,  and  no  doubt  destined^ 
to  increase  in  wealth  and  numbers  on  the  opening  of  railroad, 
facilities.  The  village  now'  contains  four  churches,  two  hotels,; 
twenty  stores,  four  storehouses,  a  ship-yard  and  rope-walk,  three- 
saw-mills,  two  furnaces,  an  iron  foundry  and  machine-shop. 

The  Sacket^s  Harbor  and  Ellisburgh  Railroad,  18  miles  ilk 
length,  connects  with  the  Watertown  and  Rome  Railroad. 

Black  River,  so  called  from  the  color  of  its  water,  is  the 
third  in  magnitude  that  has  its  whole  course  in  the  State  of 
New  York.  Its  whole  course  is  about  120  miles,  and  ia 
navigable  from  the  High  Falls  in  Leyden,  where  it  has  a  fall 
of  63  feet,  to  the  Long  Falls  at  Carthage,  a  distance  of  40  miles; 
thence,  by  a  succession  of  rapids  and  falls,  it  continues  a  cir- 
cuitous route,  until  it  empties  into  Black  River  Bay,  near  the 
foot  of  Lake  Ontario.  It  is  a  deep,  sluggish  stream,  but  tha 
navigation  is  muoh  ob^ructed  by  falls ;  affording,  however,  foi^ 


142       LSWISTON    TO    OSWEGO    AND    0GDEN8BUR0R. 

water-power.  The  land  on  the  borders  of  the  lower  part  of  the 
river  is  very  fertile  and  thickly  settled ;  Jefferson  County — and 
the  vicinity  of  Watertown  in  particular,  where  is  a  good  water 
power — is  justly  celebrated  for  its  agricultural  products. 

Chaumont  Bay,  situated  north  of  Sacket's  Harbor  at  Black 
River  Bay,  is  a  large  body  of  water  abounding  in  fish  of  several 
kinds  and  fine  flavor ;  here  being  extensive  fisheries,  where  are 
annually  taken  large  quantities  of  fish. 

The  trip  across  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario  from  Sacket's  Harbor 
to  Kingston,  Can. ,  38  miles,  is  a  very  interesting  excursion  during 
pleasant  weather.  Here  may  be  seen  beautiful  headlands  and 
eeveral  picturesque  islands ;  the  Fox  and  Grenadier  islands 
are  passed  before  reaching  Grand  or  Wolfe  Islnndy  attached 
to  Canada.  This  latter  island,  situated  in  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  is  a  large  and  fertile  body 
of  land,  being  settled  by  Canadians. 

Capk  Vincent,  Jefiferson  Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  where  ternunates  the  Watertown 
and  Borne  Railroad,  and  is  a  port  of  entry.  It  contains  about 
1,100  inhabitants,  four  churches,  five  hotels  and  taverns,  ten 
stores,  and  an  extensive  storehouse  connected  with  the  railroad ; 
one  steam  grist-mill,  one  foundry  and  machine-shop,  one  steam 
planing-mill,  and  a  ship-yard.  Steamers  arrive  and  depart 
daily  for  different  ports  on  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  A  steamer  also  leaves  Cape  Vincent  twice  daily  for 
Kingston,  Canada,  during  navigation ;  while  in  winter,  stages 
run  across  the  ice  to  Grand  or  Wolfe  Island,  and  thence  to 
Kingston,  distant  12  miles  by  direct  route.  Cape  Vincent  is 
a  healthy  and  pleasant  location,  being  much  resorted  to  in 
warm  weather  by  fishing  and  pleasure  parties,  being  contigu- 
ous to  the  •*  Thousand  Islands.*' 

Clayton,  or  French  Creek,  18  miles  below  Cape  Vincent, 
lies  opposite  Grindstone  Island,  attached  to  the  State  of  New  York. 
The  village  contains  three  churches,  two  public  houses.ten  stores, 
and  a  foundry  and  machine-shop.  Here  is  an  extensive  ship> 
yard  for  the  construction  of  steamers  and  other  lake  craft. 


LEWISTON  TO    OSWEQO    AND   OJDENSBUROH.        143 

The  Black  River  and  Utica  Railroad^  when  completed,  will 
extend  to  Clayton,  a  distance  of  100  miles  from  Utica. 

Alrxandria  Bay,  12  miles  below  Clayton,  is  favorably 
situated  on  the  southeast  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  the  greatest  cluster  of  the  Thousand  Islands, 
The  village  contains  one  Presbyterian  church,  two  good  hotels 
for  the  accommodation  of  summer  visitors,  three  stores,  a  steam 
saw-mill,  a  ship-yard,  and  about  360  inhabitants.  No  place 
on  the  St.  Lawrence  River  exceeds  this  vicinity  for  its  salubrity 
of  climate  and  picturesque  water  scenery.  The  islands  here, 
almost  innumerable,  are  an  ^n  ally  resorted  to  by  visitors  from 
almost  c^/ery  section  of  the  counny  for  health,  and  to  enjoy  thd 
pleasure  of  fishing  and  hunting. 

Well's  Island  is  settled  by  some  20  or  30  families,  and  is, 
no  doubt,  destined  to  become  a  favorite  resort,  as  a  hotel  is  pro- 
jected, to  be  located  near  the  foot  of  this  lovely  7:jland. 
.  MoRRisTowN,  N.  Y.,  11  miles  above  Ogdensburgh,  lies 
nearly  opposite  Brockville,  C.  W.,  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  a  ferry.  This  is  a  regular  landing-place  for  the  American 
steamers.  The  village  contains  two  churches,  two  taverns, 
three  stores,  and  about  850  inhabitants.  i 

Oguknsburgh,  St.  Lawrence  Co.,  N.  Y.^ia  advantageously 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie  River  where  it  empties 
into  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  was  first  incorporated  as  a  village  in 
1817,  and  now  contains  about  8,000  inhabitants,  1 ,000  dwelling- 
houses  ;  one  each  Episcopal,  Presbyterian,  Baptist,  Methodist, 
and  Roman  Catholic  church — and  a  Universalist  congregation ; 
an  incorporated  academy,  three  banks,  two  insurance  offices,  a 
custom-house,  six  public  houses,  100  stores  of  different  kinds. 
The  Oswegatchie  River  here  furnishes  an  abundance  of  water- 
power,  where  are  situated  one  woolen  factory,  two  flouring-mills, 
three  grist-mills,  three  saw-mills,  one  paper-mill,  two  plauing- 
mills  and  two  furnaces,  a  ship-yard  and  marine  railway.  This 
place  is  situated  near  the  foot  of  sloop  navigation  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  although  steamers  of  a  large  class  run  the  Rapids  to 
Montreal,  120  miles,  ascending  through  the  St.  Lawrence  canals 


l44      LEWISTON    TO    08WROO    AND    OODENSBTtROH. 

Two  dnily  lines  of  steamers  leave  Ogdcnsburgh  for  Cape  Vincent, 
Kingston,  Oswego  Toronto,  L  wiston,  etc.,  while  two  daily  lines 
leave  Ogdensburgh  or  Prescott  for  Montreal,  etc.  Two  steam 
ferry-boats  run  across  the  St.  Lawrence,  here  one  mile  and  a 
half  wide,  to  Prescott,  forming  a  close  connection  between  the 
two  shores.  The  JVorthern  Railroad  extends  from  Ogdensburgh 
easterly  to  Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y.,  118  miles,  connecting  with 
Bteamers  and  railroads  extending  to  Boston  and  New  York.  A 
railroad  is  also  finished,  extending  from  Ogdensburgh  and 
form  a  junction  with  the  Potsdam  and  Watertown  Railroad. 
Propellers  and  lake  craft  annually  deposit  an  immense  amount 
<jf  Western  produce,  to  be  carried  forward  by  railroads  to  East- 
ern markets.  As  a  stopping-place  for  pleasure  travelers,  Og- 
densburgh stands  unrivaled,  having  the  Thousand  Islands  above 
•nd  the  magnificent  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  below.  Passen- 
gers are  here  usually  transferred  from  the  floating  palaces  of 
Lake  Ontario  to  the  equally  safe  but  smaller  steamers  which  run 
the  Rapids  to  Montreal. 

The  JVorthern  Transportation  Com.  has  here  its  branch 
office  for  the  trans-shipment  of  produce  and  merchandise  going 
East  and  West.  This  company  owns  15  propellers,  of  about  350 
tons  burden,  running  from  Ogdensburgh  and  Oswego  to  Cleveland, 
Toledo,  Detroit,  Milwaukee,  Chicago,  etc.  This  line  affords  a 
cheap  and  speedy  route  of  travel  for  travelers  and  emigrants. 

The  Oswegatchie  River,  which  empties  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
at  Ogdensburgh,  is  the  outlet  of  Black  Lake,  lying  in  the  county 
of  St.  Lawrence.  The  lake  and  river  are  navigable  for  about 
26  miles,  to  within  four  miles  of  Ogdensburgh.  At  the  mouth 
of  this  river,  now  a  part  of  the  village  of  Ogdensburgh,  an  early 
settlement  was  made  by  the  French,  and  fortifications  erected, 
all  of  which  have  gone  to  decay. 

The  Trip  from  Kingston  to  Ogdensburgh  and  Montreal  is  de- 
scribed in  another  part  of  this  work,  following  the  Canadian 
route  from  Hamilton  and  Toronto  to  Kingston,  Prescott,  and 
Montreal.  For  further  information,  see  advertisements  of  Lake 
Ontario  and  River  St.  Lawrence  Steamers. 


V   i;  •  V'     ..:■'..>   ''  ■'.    h.  ^:.\)\    ''l)i 


TRIP  FROM  MAGARA  AND  HAMILTON  TO  TORONTO 
AND  KINGSTON,  CANADA.       ,       .. 


American  and  Canadian  steamers  leave  Lewiston,  or 
Niagara,  C.  W.,  daily  for  Toronto,  40  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
Niagara  River,  connecting  with  railroad  cars  from  Buffalo  and 
Niagara  Falls,  running  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

A  Canadian  steamer  also  leaves  Port  Dalhousie  daily  for 
Toronto,  connecting  at  St.  Catherine's  with  cars  on  the  Great 
Western  Railway,  altogether  affording  great  facilities  both  in 
summer  and  winter  to  resort  to  the  capital  of  Canada. 

On  leaving  the  mouth  of  Niagara  River,  the  steamer  pursues 
a  N.W.  course  direct  for  Toronto,  having,  on  a  clear  day,  land 
constantly  in  sight  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  Nothing  can 
exceed  the  pleasure  of  this  trip  during  pleasant  weather. 
Usually  may  be  seen  propellers  and  sailing  vessels  on  their  way 
to  or  from  Port  Dalhousie,  the  mouth  of  the  VVelland  Canal,  a 
magnificent  work,  of  which  the  Canadians  are  justly  proud. 

Port  Dalhousie,  12  miles  west  of  the  mouth  of  Niagara 
River,  and  distant  38  miles  from  Toronto,  is  a  small  village 
situated  at  the  terminus  of  the  Welland  Canal,  four  miles  below 
St.  Catherine's,  with  which  place  it  is  connected  by  the  Port 
Dalhousie  and  Thorold  Railroad^  five  miles  in  length,  connect- 
ing with  the  Great  Western  Railway. 

The  Welland  Canal,  28  miles  in  length,  connecting  Lake 
Erie  with  Lake  Ontario,  and  overcoming  the  Falls  of  Niagara, 
is  a  work  alike  beneficial  to  the  commercia  interests  of  the 
United  States  and  Canada,  the  former  paying  by  far  the  greatest 
amount  of  tolls.  The  number  of  locks  are  27,  being  150  feet  in 
length  and  26 1  feet  wide.  The  total  rise  is  330  feet.  The 
depth  of  water  is  8  J  feet,  the  canal  being  45  feet  wide  at  bot- 
tom and  81  feet  at  the  surface.  The  feeder  branch,  from  Junc- 
tion to  Dunnville,  is  21  nules  long.  The  Broad  Creek  branch 
1..  .  X8 


146     NIAGARA    AND    HAMILTON   TO   KINOSTON,    ETC. 

from  feeder  to  Port  Maitland,  the  terminus  on  Lake  Erie,  is  1 } 
mil«s  in  length,  with  one  look  each.  The  entire  cost  of  the 
enlarged  canal  was  about  £1,000,000  Canadian  currency,  or 
$4,000,000. 

St.  Catherine*^,  38  miles  south  of  Toronto  by  water,  11 
miles  from  Suspension  Bridge,  and  32  miles  from  Hamilton  by 
railroad  route,  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  lino  of  the 
Welland  Canal,  here  affording  a  large  amount  of  water-power. 
This  town  is  a  place  of  great  attraction  and  growing  importance, 
being  surrounded  by  a  healthy  and  rich  section  of  country. 
Here  is  a  mineral  fountain  called  the  *♦  Artesian  Well"  also 
several  large  and  well-kept  hotels,  for  the  accommodation  of 
invalids  and  seekers  of  pleasure.  The  Stevenson  House,  near 
the  Spring,  and  the  Welland  Hotel,  are  the  most  frequented  by 
pleasure  travelers. 

The  village  contains  about  6,000  inhabitants,  several  fine 
churches  and  private  edifices,  here  being  exhibited  a  degree  of 
taste  and  activity  equal  to  any  other  town  of  its  size  in  Cannda 
or  the  United  States  If  the  mineral  waters  prove  as  beneficial 
to  invalids  as  is  represented  by  many  who  have  experienced  their 
beneficial  efifects,  it  is  nQ  doubt  destined  to  become  a  popular 
watering-place  during  the  summer  months.  The  '*  Well"  is 
situated  near  the  bank  of  the  canal,  and  is  550  feet  in  depth ; 
the  water  being  raised  by  a  steam  pump  to  the  bath-house, 
situated  on  the  bank  above. 

The  City  of  Hamilton,  from  its  geographical  position,  and 
its  peculiar  natural  and  artificial  advantages,  lying  on  Burling- 
ton Bay,  at  the  extreme  west  end  of  Lake  Ontario,  has  within  the 
last  five  or  six  years  rapidly  increased  in  wealth  and  numbers. 
But  a  few  short  years  have  passed  away  since  the  site  on 
which  now  stands  the  crowded  city,  with  its  stately  edifices  and 
its  elegant  residences,  its  thronged  streets,  and  its  marts  and 
factories  teeming  with  life  and  business  activity,  was  a  dense 
forest,  the  residence  and  hunting- groimd  of  the  Indian.  It  was 
not  many  years  ago  that  the  waters  of  its  beautiful  bay,  whicli 
'^  now  bear  upon  their  bosom  magnificent  steamers  and  vessels  of 


KUOARA   AND    HAMILTON    TO    KINGSTON,    ETC.      14T 


c 


t 


every  grade,  bringing  to  our  port  the  treasiircH  of  other  lands, 
and  conveying  to  Eastern  markets  the  pHxlucts  of  the  West, 
were  eulm  and  unrulHed,  save  when  tlie  red  man  launched 
his  barque  ui)on  ihe  blue  expanse,  or  when  hishod  into  fury 
by  the  angry  tempest. 

Hiunilton  was  first  laid  out  in  the  year  1813,  during  the  war 
with  the  United  States,  but  for  i-  iny  years  it  progressed  but 
glowly  in  population  and  importance.  By  the  census  of  1841 
it  numbered  3,446  inhabitants.  During  the  succeeding  f»»ur 
years  the  population  nearly  doubled,  and  by  the  census  of 
1801  the  numbers  had  increased  to  19,000.  From  that  period 
to  the  present  the  city  has  progressed  with  almost  unexampled 
rapidity  for  Canada. 

ITie  city  is  governed  by  a  mayor  and  board  of  aldermen  and 
councilors,  together  with  a  police  department.  The  public 
buildings  are  a  city  hall,  city  hospital,  post-office  building, 
custom-house,  market  building,  twenty  churches  of  different 
denominations,  five  banks,  and  a  mechanics'  institute  ;  many 
being  large  edifices,  erected  in  a  durable  style  of  architecture. 
The  principal  hotels  arc  the  Anglo-American,  International, 
and  Royal  Hotel,  situated  on  James  Street. 

The  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada,  running  from  Suspen- 
sion Bridge  to  Windsor,  has  its  head  offices  and  machine  shops 
here  A  branch  of  the  Great  Western  Railway  e-xtends  to 
Toronto,  connecting  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  running 
East  and  West.  The  Desjardins  Canal,  four  miles  in  length, 
connects  Hamilton  with  Dundas. 


Tlie  exports  of  Hamilton  for  the  year  1861,  as  shown  by  the 
last  census,  were  valued  at  $1,674,297,  and  the  imports  for  the 
same  time  were  $2,656,639.  The  amount  of  duties  collected 
was  $437,457.  Distant  from  Niagara  Falls,  45  miles  ;  Wind- 
sor, 183 ;  Toronto  38  miles,  and  from  Montreal,  by  rail,  372 
miles. 

Steamers,  during  the  season  of  navigation,  run  from  HamiUon 
to  Toronto,  Kingston,  and  other  ports  on  Lake  Ontario,  afford- 


148      KIAOARA    AND    HAIfO^TON    TO   KINOSTOlf,  ITO,  4 

ing  a  epocdy  and  delightful  mode  of  coiiYoyan^c,  not  only  • 
through  tho  lakes,  but  down  tlie  St.  Lawrence  River  to  PreBcott, » 
Ogdenaburgh,  and  Montreal. 

Welunoton  Square,  seven  miles  below  ITamilton,  Is  %■- 
place  of  some  importance,  it  being  tho  outport  for  Ile^miUoa 
during  the  winter  months,  when  tho  lake  is  obstructed  by  ioe. 

Bronte,  13  miles  below  Hamilton,  is  a  small  village  con-  ■ 
taiuing  about  400  inhabitants.  Hero  are  two  public  houses,  two  - 
churches,  a  grist-mill,  a  oloth  factory,  and  several  lumber  '. 
yards. 

Oakville,  19  miles  from  ITamilton,  and  about  the  same  dis-  • 
tanoe  from  Toronto,  is  a  place  of  considerable  business,  having  a 
good  harbor.   It  contains  about  1 ,000  inhabitants ;  four  churches, 
several  public  houses  and  stores ;  a  foundry,  and  other  manu-  * 
facturing  establishments.     The  country  in  the  rear  is  healthy 
and  productive,  being  drained  by  several  fine  streams. 

Port.  Credit,  12  miles  from  Toronto,  is  a  large  shipping 
port  for  produce  of  different  kinds.  It  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  River  Credit,  here  flowing  into  Lake  Ontario.  It  was  once  a 
favorite  resort  of  the  Indians,  receiving  its  name,  in  early 
times,  from  the  circumstance  of  the  fur  traders  here  meeting 
the  Indians,  and  delivering  to  them  on  credit  their  goods,  for 
which  the  following  year  they  received  their  value  in  furs. 


TOBONTO. 

The  City  of  Toronto,  and  capital  of  Canada,  is  favorably 
situated  on  Toronto  Bay,  in  43  32'  N.  lat.,  and  79°  20'  W. 
long,  from  Greenwich.  It  is  40  miles  N.E.  Hamilton,  160  W. 
from  Kingston,  333  from  Montreal,  and  413  from  Quebec  by 
railroad  route.  The  bay  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  about  4 
miles  long  and  2  miles  wide,  separated  from  the  main  body  of  Lake 
Ontario,  except  at  its  entrance,  by  a  long,  narrow  strip  of  sandy 
beach,  the  southwest  termination  of  which  is  known  as  Gibral*  ,.. 
tar  Point,  on  which  is  located  a  light-house.  .;^ 


HIAOARA    AND    HAMILTON    TO    KINGSTON,  BTO.        140 

'••  Toronto  eignifies,  in  the  India''  language,  a  place  of  n  eet- 
ittfi;.  In  1793 ,  when  sunreycd  by  the  elder  Douohetto,  unvlor  the 
orders  of  Qov.  Simooe,  two  Massasauga  families  wore  the  only 
inhabitants  it  contained,  and  the  harbor  was  a  resort  for  numer- 
ens  wild  fowl,  while  its  waters  produced  an  abundance  of  finh.'* 
It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1834,  when  it  contained  9,264 
inhabitants.  In  1842  it  had  increased  to  15,436 ;  in  18r)2,  to 
80,703 ;  and  in  1861,  tc  over  4r>,000.  It  is  laid  out  with  wide 
streets,  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  esplanade 
fronting  the  bay  extends  for  a  distance  of  two  miles.  The  city 
is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  well  supplied  with  pure  water  hj 
companies  incorporated  for  those  purposes. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  Parliament  House,  the 
University  of  Toronto,  Trinity  College,  Upper  Canada  College, 
the  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  Custom  House,  the  Post  Office,  St. 
Jfimes'  Church  (the  English  cathedral),  and  the  Roman  Cath- 
olio  Cathedral;  besides  which  there  are  a  great  number  of 
churches  of  different  denominations.  The  Bank  of  Upper  Canada 
has  its  head  office  here,  and  there  are  other  banks  and  agencies; 
also  several  Fire  and  Marine  Insurance  Companies.  This  is  the 
principal  office  of  the  Canada  Land  Company,  which  has  nearly 
two  millions  of  acres  of  land  for  sale,  situated  in  various  parts 
of  the  Province.  The  hotels  and  public  houses  are  numerous 
and  well  kept,  making  this  city  a  desirable  sojourn.  The 
4viencan  Hotel  and  the  Queen's  Hotel,  both  fronting  the  bay,  are 
the  most  freciuented. 

Toronto  has  become  a  great  thoroughfare  by  means  of  steam- 
ers and  railroads.  A  constant  intercourse  is  thus  kept  up  with 
the  different  ports  on  Lake  Ontario,  the  Upper  Lakes,  and  the 
St.  Lawrence  River.  Steamers  run  from  Toronto  to  Hamilton, 
St.  Catherine's,  Niagara,  and  Lewiston  on  the  west  and  south ; 
to  Rochester  and  Oswego  on  the  east ;  and  to  Cape  Vincent, 
Kingston,  Prescott,  Montreal,  etc.,  on  the  northeast. 

The  Ontario^  Simcoe  and  Huron  Railroad^  94  miles  in  length, 
terminates  at  CoUingwood,  on  Georgian  Bay,  connecting  with 
the  waters  of  Lake  Huron.    The  Grand  Trunk  Bailway  ex« 


150    NIAGARA    AHO    BAMILTOH    TO   KINOSTOK,   ETC.   ' 

tends  northeast  to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  while  its  western 
termination  is  near  Port  Samia,  lying  at  the  foot  of  Ljike 
Huron.  The  Toronto  and  Hamilton  Railroad,  a  branch  of  the 
Great  Western  Rtjilway  of  Canada,  also  terminates  here,  afford- 
ing altogether  facilities  of  great  benefit  to  Toronto  and  the 
whole  of  Canada. 

The  markets  of  Toronto  are  abundantly  supplied  with  e\riry 
description  of  provisions  of  the  best  quality,  and  at  moderate 
{wices.  The  climate  is  healthy  and  delightful  during  the 
summer  and  fall  months,  being  modified  by  lake  breezes. 

The  NoiiTHERN  Railway  of  Canada,  formerly  known  as  the 
Ontario.  Simcoe  and  Huron  Railroad,  extending  from  Toronto 
to  Collingwood,  C.  W.,  does  a  large  local  business,  in  addi- 
tion to  a  through  traffic  with  the  Upper  Lakes,  during  the 
geason  of  navigation,  which  usually  lasts  from  the  first  of  May 
to  the  last  of  November. 

f- 

The  new  Steamer  AmoMA,  416  tons  burthen,  runs  from 
Collingwood  to  Sault  Ste  Marie,  and  thence  to  Fort  William, 
situated  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior.  This  trip,  of  more 
than  one  thousand  miles,  passing  through  the  Georgian  Bay 
and  North  Chabnel,  River  St.  Mary,  and  Ltike  Superior,  em- 
braces hike  and  river  scenery  which  for  grandeur  and  beauty 
is  not  equaled  on  this  continent.  For  further  particulars, 
see  Advertisement. 

A  Canal  has  been  proposed  to  connect  the  Georgian  Bay 
with  Lake  Ontario,  at  Toronto.  When  completed,  also  a  rail- 
road from  Lake  Superior  to  the  Upper  Mississippi,  now  in  pro- 
gress of  construction,  there  will  be  an  impetus  to  trade  and 
commerce  that  will  be  favorably  felt  both  in  Canada  and  the 
United  States. 


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;;.  'ito.i  A.    i*'<«  k'  .# 

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iriAOARA    AND    HAMILTON    TO   KING8T0W,    ETC,      151" 

'  Port  Whitby,  29  miles  below  Toronto,  lies  on  the  line  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  where  is  a  steamboat  landing,  at  which 
steamers  land  on  their  route  from  Toronto  to  llochfister,  etc 

OsHAWA,  33  miles  below  Toronto  by  raill-oad  route,  is  hand- 
somely situated  a  short  distance  from  the  lake  shore  and  has  a 
good  harbor.  It  contains  five  churches,  two  hotels,  15  stores, 
two  woolen  factories,  two  tanneries  and  a  brewery,  besides  other 
manufacturing  establishments.     Population,  2,500. 

BowMANVii.i.K,  43  miles  from  Toronto,  lying  a  short  distance 
from  the  lake,  is  connected  with  Darlington  Harbor ^  where  is  a 
steamboat  landing. 

Port  Hope  is  a  port  of  entry  situated  on  the  north  shore  of 
Lake  Ontario,  62  miles  from  Toronto  and  98  miles  from  King- 
ston by  railroad  route.  This  is  a  safe  harbor,  where  steamers 
land  daily  from  different  ports  on  the  lake,  which  together  with 
sail  vessels  export  large  quantities  of  produce.  The  village  con- 
tains a  court-house,  six  churches,  four  hotels,  40  stores ;  two 
flouring-mills,  a  woolen  factory,  two  iron  foundries,  a  machine- 
shop,  two  tanneries,  two  breweries,  and  six  distilleries.  The 
lumber  trade  carried  on  at  this  port  is  very  extensive  and 
profitable.  Population,  3,500.  In  addition  to  the  Gran«i  2VM/t A 
Railway^  which  runs  through  the  town,  a  raixroad  runs  from 
Port  liope  to  Beaverton,  situated  on  Lake  Simcoe,  a  distance  of 
41  miles,  thus  opening  a  fine  section  of  Canada  to  emigration 
and  trade. 

From  Port  Hope,  or  Cobourg,  going  toward  Kingston  by  rail- 
road route,  there  is  to  be  seen  a  fine  section  of  Canada,  passing 
through  several  flourishing  towns,  and  near  the  Ba^^  of  Quinte. 

CoBouRG,  handsomely  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Genesee  River,  where  the 
lake  attains  its  greatest  width,  is  70  miles  from  Toronto,  90 
miles  from  Kingston,  and  263  miles  from  Montreal  by  railroad 
route.  It  possesses  a  good  harbor  and  is  much  frequented  by 
steamers  and  sailing  vessels,  it  being  one  of  the  regular  landings 
for  the  Boyal  Mail  Steamers,  which  pass  and  repass,  daily,  oa 
ilieir  way  up  aa4  down  the  hka. 


152      NIAGARA    AND    HAMILTON    TO    KINGSTON,    ETC. 

The  principal  public  buildings  in  Cobourg  are  the  court-honw 
and  jail,  and  the  Victoria  College,  which  was  established  in 
1842,  by  Ajct  of  the  ProvinciaJ  Legislature,  with  power  to  grant 
degrees  in  the  arts  and  sciences ;  there  are  also  a  number  of 
fine  church  edifices.  Here  are  the  most  extensive  cloth  manufac- 
tories in  the  Province  ;  there  are  also  iron,  marble,  and  leather 
manufactories,  with  breweries  and  distilleries,  six  hotels  and 
taverns,  40  or  50  stores  of  different  kinds,  and  a  number  of 
mechanic  shops.  Population,  6,000.  Few  places  in  "Canada 
pi-esent  a  more  beautiful  appearance  from  the  winter  than 
Cobourg— the  landscape  being  extensive  and  varied  by  a  most 
delightful  background. 

The  Cobourg  and  Peterboro*  Railroad,  28  miles  in  length, 
commences  at  this  place,  which,  together  with  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway,  tends  greatly  to  benefit  Cobourg  and  the  towns  lying 
on  the  rear,  in  the  vicinity  of  Rice  Lake, 

CoLBoRNK,  14  miles  below  Cobourg,  is  situated  on  the  line  of 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Here  is  a  good  landing  for  vessels 
and  a  flourishing  settlement. 

On  leaving  Cobourg  for  Kingston  on  the  downward  trip,  the 
steamer  usually  runs  out  into  the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Ontario, 
Boon  attaining  their  greatest  width.  Often  during  the  prevalence 
of  storms  or  high  winds,  the  unacclimated  voyager  experiences 
sensations  any  thing  but  agreeable ,  sea-sickness  often  prostra- 
ting alike  the  athletic  male  and  the  delicate  female.  This 
however,  on  board  the  larger  class  steamers  is  no  serious  objec- 
tion to  journeying  across  Lake  Ontario,  it  being  considered  the 
most  safe  navigation  of  any  of  the  great  lakes. 

JVicholas  Point  and  Island  are  passed  about  40  miles  from 
Cobourg.  Next  comes  Wicked  Point,  and  soon  heaves  in  sight 
Point  Peter  and  Light.  This  light  is  a  conspicuous  object, 
for  the  mariner,  who  often,  when  off  Prince  Edward,  the 
mainland,  experiences  the  full  force  of  easterly  and  westerly 
winds.     '  .,    .-.,r,..  ,  ;    ,,  ,„  ,.,^^.^^, 

Duck  Island,  attached  to  Canada  is  another  noted  object, 
for  the  mariner,  either  descending  or  ascending  Lake  Ontario^, , 


NiAOARA    AND    HAMILTON    TO    KINGSTON,    ETC.      158 

fts  this  is  the  first  important  island  to  be  met  on  descending  from 
the  head  of  the  lake  on  the  Canada  side. 

Outer  Drake  and  Inner  Drake  are  two  small  islands  situated 
inland  toward  Prince  Edward's  Cay. 

Amherst  Island,  a  large  and  fertile  body  of  land,  is  next 
passed  on  the  left,  while  Gage  Island  and  Grand  or  Wolfe 
Island  may  be  seen  on  the  right ;  these  latter  islands  being 
situated  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  or  mouth  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence Kiver,  where  commences  the  celebrated  '•  Thousand 
Islands*'' 

The  City  of  Kingston,  capital  of  Frontenac  Co.,  Canada.  160 
miles  from  Toronto,  and  173  miles  from  Montreal  by  railroad 
route,  is  very  advantageously  situated  on  a  beautiful  harbor  at 
the  northeast  extremity  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  immediately  above 
its  outlet,  "  Cataraqui,"  or  St.  Lawrence  River,  in  N.  lat.  44" 
8',  W,  long.  76°  40'  from  Greenwich.  *'  The  view  of  the  city 
and  surrounding  scenery  is  not  surpassed  by  the  approaches  to 
any  other  city  in  America.  A  few  miles  above  Kingston  the 
waters  of  Lake  Ontario  are  divided  by  the  first  of  the  long 
series  of  islands  so  well  known  to  Tourists  as  the  *'  Thousand 
Islands,*^  of  which  Simcoe  and  Grand  or  Wolfe  Inlands,  opposite 
the  city,  may  be  looked  upon  as  strongholds,  designed  by  nature 
to  withstand  the  encroaches  of  the  waves  of  Ontario.  On  ap- 
proaching from  the  west,  by  water,  the  first  object  that  attracts 
the  traveler's  attention  is  Fort  Henry,  with  the  naval  station 
of  Fort  Frederick  at  its  base,  and  its  attendant  battlements, 
fortifications,  towers,  and  redoubts.  Fort  Henry  is  a  favorite 
resort  for  visitors,  and  its  elevated  position  affords  the  best  view, 
that  can  be  had  of  the  city,  lake,  and  surrounding  country  " 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  City  Hall,  one  of  the 
finest  and  most  substantial  edifices  in  Canada,  and  built  of  cut 
limestone  at  a  cost  of  $92,000.  It  contains  all  the  public 
offices  of  the  city,  including  a  spacious  hall,  capable  of  seating 
over  1 ,000  persons ;  the  court-house  is  a  large  stone  building, 
which  is  about  being  removed,  and  another,  more  in  accordance 
with  the  wants  of  the  citizens,  ig  to  be  erected  on  a  ground  more 


154     NIAGARA    AND    HAMILTON    TO   KINGSTON,    ETC. 


central,  and  its  present  site  occupied  by  a  custom-house  and 
post-office.  Here  is  a  Roman  Catholic  cathedral  and  several 
fine  church  edifices,  in  all  numbering  sixteen.  Queen's  College, 
under  the  direction  of  the  Presbyterians,  has  a  president  and 
four  professors ;  the  College  of  Ilegiopolis  (Roman  Catholic)  has 
also  a  president  and  four  professors;  the  General  I  spital, 
Hotel  Dieu,  and  a  nunnery  are  also  in  the  city,  while  two  miles 
west  is  situated  the  Provincial  Penitentiary.  It  has  four  bank- 
ing-housv  J  and  several  insurance  offices ;  three  well-kept  hotels, 
and  about  100  stores  of  different  kinds ;  besides  several  breweries, 
.  distilleries,  tanneri^,  foundries,  machine-shops,  and  a  marine 
railway  and  ship-yard  for  the  building  of  lake  craft ;  on  JVavy 
Bai ,  which  lies  between  Point  Frederick  and  Point  Henry,  is 
the  naval  dock-yard  used  for  government  purposes.  Near  the 
Penitentiary  is  a  mineral  spring  of  some  celebrity,  resembling 
in  its  component  j^arts  the  Cheltenham  spring  of  England ;  an- 
other spring  exists  which  is  unusually  strong,  resembling  in 
some  respects  the  "  Artesian  Well"  of  St.  Catherine's.  It  has 
been  analyzed  by  Prof.  Williamson,  and  found  to  contain  valu- 
able medical  properties. — Population,  14,000. 

Kingston  occupies  the  site  of  Fort  Frontcnac^  an  old  French 
post,  this  being  one  of  a  chain  of  posts  extending  from  Quebec 
to  Mackinac.  Here  are  owned  20  steamers  and  about  40 
schooners,  sailing  to  and  from  the  port,  besides  numerous  other 
Canadian  and  American  steamers  and  sailing  vessels.  It  being 
the  outlet  for  the  productions  of  the  fertile  Bay  of  Quinte,  and 
the  Rideau  Canals  terminating  at  Kingston,  makes  it  an  im- 
portant and  active  mart  of  commerce. 


■-    '■i'T: '-'.'% 


'.  ••  ■  wcjiatne?* 


STEAMBOAT    ROUTE 

FROM  KINGSTON  TO  BELLEVILLE  AND  PORT    TRENTON, 
PASSING  THROUGH  THE  BAY  OF  QUIKTE. 


Landings.  Milea.  Lnndings.        ^  MHetv 

Kingston 0    Port  Trenton 0 

Amherst  Island 13    Bp:l,l.kvil.le 12 

Bath 5-18    North  Port 12-24 

Fredericksburg 10-28    Indian  Woods 8^32 

Adelphustown 4-32    Picton 15-47 

Stone  Mills 3-35    Stone  Mills 6-52 

Picton 5-40     Adolphustown. ........     3-55 

Indian  Woods. 15-55    Fredericksburg 4-59 

North  Port 8-63    Bath 10-69 

Belleville 12-75    Amherst  Island 6-74 

Port  Trenton •   12-«7     Kir:c;3T0iv 13-87 

Fare  from  Kingston  to  Picton $1  00 

««  «*  Belleville 1  50 

Several  steamers  leave  Kingston  daily  for  Picton,  Belleville, 
Port  Trenton,  and  intermediate  ports,  during  the  season  of 
navigation,  connecting  at  Belleville  and  Port  Trenton  with  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  line  of  stages  running  to  Rice  Lake, 
Peterboro',  etc. 

On  leaving  the  wharf  at  Kingston  the  steamers  run  in  a 
westerly  direction,  passing  the  Brothers,  to  Amherst  Island, 
13  miles.  This  is  a  large  and  fertile  island,  inhabited  by  an 
intelligent  and  prosperous  class  of  citizens.  Here  commences 
the  Bay  of  Quinte,  a  long,  crooked,  and  picturesque  body  of 
water,  into  which  empties  the  Napanee,  Moira,  and  Trent 
rivers. 

Bath,  18  miles  from  Kingston,  is  situated  on  the  main  shore, 
opposite  Amherst  Island.  It  contains  about  GOO  inhabitants, 
inth  a  fine  back  country.  '        '•  '    -- ' 


56  KINGSTON   TO    BELLEVILLE,    ETC. 

FREDERicKMnuRG,  28  miles  from  Kingston,  is  a  settlement 
on  the  mainla 

Adolphustown,  32  miles  from  Kingston,  is  situated  on  the 
mainland,  opposite  Marysburg,  located  on  Prince  Edward's 
Island. 

Stone  Mills,  35  miles  from  Kingston,  is  situated  on  Prince 
Edward's  Island,  near  a  most  remarkable  lake,  elevated  some 
800  feet  above  the  Bay  of  Quinte.  It  is  called  the  Lake  of  the 
Mountain^  Being  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  nearly  as  wide.  It 
has  no  perceptible  inlet,  but  discharges  a  large  volume  of  water, 
which  is  used  in  propelling  several  mills  of  different  kinds. 

PxcTow,  10  miles  from  Kingston,  and  35  miles  from  Belle- 
ville by  water,  is  the  capital  of  Prince  Edward  Co.,  C.  W.,  being 
handsomely  situated.  The  Bay  of  Quinte,  which  here  expands 
to  a  considerable  width,  is  called  11  alio  well  Bay.  The  village 
contains  about  2,000  inhabitants ;  a  court-house  and  jail,  one 
Episcopal,  one  Presbyterian,  one  Methodist,  and  one  Roman 
Catholic  church,  two  hotels,  and  several  taverns,  twelve  stores, 
one  steam  ilouring-mill,  one  large  tannery,  and  an  extensive 
earriagc  manufactory. 

On  leaving  Picton,  the  steamer  runs  north  to  the  landing 
called  Indian  Wooih^  when  a  westerly  course  is  again  pursued 
to  the  head  of  the  bay,  passing  Morris,  or  HalVs  Island,  and 
several  beautiful  headlands.  Here  is  another  expansion  of 
water  called  HalPs  Bay,  on  CsLpt.  Owen's  (r.  n.)  Chart  of  Lake 
Ontario. 

Bkllevillk,  Hastings  Co.,  C.  W.,  is  advantageously  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Moira,  75  miles  by  steamboat  route, 
and  only  47  miles  by  railroad  from  Kingston.  This  is  a  very 
thriving  town,  now  containing  about  8,000  inhabitants;  the 
county  buildings,  a  town  hall  and  market  building ;  a  Method* 
ist  seminary,  erected  in  1855 ;  one  Episcopal,  two  Presbyterian, 
two  Methodist,  and  one  Roman  Catholic  church ;  four  hotels,  and 
a  number  of  taverns;  60  stores  of  different  kinds,  and  most 
kinds  of  mechanic  workshops.  The  Moira  River  affords  a  good 
water-power,  here  being  situated  one  woolen  factory,  threo 


KINGSTON    TO    BELLEVILLE,    ETC.  157 

flourinp:-millR,  four  saw-mills,  one  paper-mill,  one  axe  factory, 
one  extenisive  distillery,  three  foundries  and  niacbine-sliops, 
and  a  ship-yard.  This  is  a  great  market  for  lumber,  grain, 
and  other  kinds  of  produce.  It  is  proposed  to  extend  m  rail- 
road from  Belleville  to  Lake  Simcoe,  and  thence  to  the  Geor- 
gian Bay  of  Lake  Huron. 

Port  Teenton,  87  miles  from  Kingston  by  steamboat  route, 
and  59  miles  by  railroad,  is  another  growing  place  and  port  of 
entry,  situated  near  the  head  of  the  Bay  of  Quinte,  at  the 
mouth  of  Trent  Iliver.  It  contains  about  1,200  inhabitan^js ; 
one  Episcopal  and  one  Methodist  church ;  three  hotels,  ten 
stores,  one  grist-mill,  one  extensive  steam  saw^-mill,  one  large 
tannery,  two  distilleries,  a  foundry,  machine  shop,  and  ship- 
yards. Steamers  run  from  Port  Trenton  to  Kingston.  Prescott, 
Montreal,  etc.,  trans-shipping  a  large  arao  it  of  lumber  and 
country  produce. 

The  River  Trent,  which  is  the  outlet  of  Pemedashcontayong, 
or  Rice  Luke,  is  a  fine  stream  of  water,  and  is  in  part  naviga- 
ble for  steamers  running  into  the  lake.  Immense  quantities 
of  wild  rice  are  found  in  the  low  waters  of  this  lake  and  itg 
vicinity,  which  abound  in  game  of  diiferent  kinds,  affording 
ample  sport  and  profit  to  the  huntsman. 

'Hie  principal  inlet  of  Rice  Lake  is  called  Otonihee  River,  being 
the  outlet  of  a  succession  of  lakes,  the  most  celebrated  of 
which  lies  823  feet  above  the  ocean,  and  is  called  Balsam  Lake ; 
the  other  bodies  of  water  are  called  Sturgeon  Lake,  West 
Lake,  and  East  Lake.  From  Balsam  Lake  to  the  Bay  of  Quinte 
there  is  a  succession  of  falls  of  588  feet  descent. 


LIST  OF  STEAMERS. 


u 


AMERICAN  STEAMERS  BUILT  ON  LAKE  ONTARIO  AND  RIVEll 
ST.  LAWRENCE 'since  THEIR  INTRODUCTION  IN  181«. 


BnlU.  Nume.  Toim.  Whprn  hnllf..  Romaiks. 

1816 . .  Ontario 282 . .  Backet's  Harbor— broken  up, 

1818. Sophia    75..  Backet's  Harbor-broken  up. 

1S2"  .Martha  0<?dcn...  150.. Backet's  Harbor— lost  In  1882. 

1880.. Brown ville 150..Brownvllle— broken  up. 

1881 . .  Charles  Carroll . .  100 . .  Backet's  Harbor— broken  up.  ••  • 

"    ..Paul  Pry. 50..Og(lensburgh— broken  up. 

1838 . .  United  States. . . .  460 . .  Ogdensburgh    broken  up. 

•1888 . .  Black  Hawk ....  200 . .  French  Creek— broken  up. 

1881.  .Oswego 400.  .Oswego,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 

1886. .  Oneida 80 )    Oswego,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 

1887.  .Telegraph 200. . Dexter,  N.  Y.— laid  up. 

1888.. John  Marshall...     60. .Lake  Erie -lost  in  1844. 

1839.. St.  Lawrence 460.. Oswego,  N.  Y.- broken  up. 

"    .  .Express 150.  .Pultney ville — tow  boat. 

1841.  .George  Clinton. .  100.  .Oswego,  N.  Y.  -destroyed. 
"     .  President 60  .  Os wogo,  N.  Y.— lost  in  1844. 

1842.  .Lady  of  the  Lake  425.  .Oswego,  N.  Y.— burnt  iti  1854. 

1848.  .Rochester 850.  .Oswego,  N.  Y.— name  changed. 

1845 . .  Niagara 473.  Clayton,  N.  Y.— 

1847. .  Cataract 577 . .  Clayton,  N.  Y.— Lewlston  to  Ogdensburgh. 

1848..  Bay  State 1,098..  Clayton,  N.  Y.— Lewi  don  to  Ogdensburgh. 

"    . .  Ontario  832 . .  Clayton,  N.  Y.— Lewlston  to  Offdensburgh. 

1849.  .Northerner 905.  .Osweijo,  N.  Y.-  - 

1868.  .New  York 1,200.  .Clayton,  N.  Y.— 

RUNNING  ON   THE    ST.    LAWRENCE    RIVER. 

Jenny  Lind 800.  .Montreal,  C.  E.— Ogden.sburgh  to  Montreal 

Montreal.  8  lO. .  Kingston,  C.W.— Ogdensburgh  to  Montreal 

British  Queen 800 . .  Grand  Island  -  Ogdensburgh  to  Montreal. 


BRITISH   STEAMERS   BUILT  ON  LAKE   ONTARIO  AND   THB 
RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE  SINCE  1816. 

Biillt,  NuriK'.  Toiig.  WhiTe  built.  Kemarks. 

1816 . .  Frontenac  (Ist) 50o Kingston,  C.  W.  -broken  up. 

1817. .  Charlotte 150. . .  .Kingston. 

1819..Dalhousio 850  . . .  Prescott. 

1824.  Toronto 200. . .  .Toronto. 

'♦    . .  Queenston 850 Queenston. 

1826. .Canada  list) 250. . .  .Toronto. 

"    ..Niagara 400 ifrockville. 

1828..Alclope 450  ...Niagara. 

1829.. Sir  James  Kempt 2  0 Kingston. 

1830.. Great  Britain 700  ...Prescott. 

1881    Iroquois 100. .  ..Prescott. 

1882. .John  By 100. ..  .Kingston. 

'   .  .William  the  Fourth 450 Gananoque— tow  boat 

"    ..Transit 850.   .Oakvdle— wrecked. 

1888 . .  Britannia 200 Kingston— broken  np^ 

"    ..Cobourg 500 Cobour^. 

*  ..Kingston (1st) 200.... Kingston. 


LIST    OF    STEAMERS,    ETC. 


159 


•oMt. 
1883 
1884. 


1885. 
(( 

1887! 
(( 

<t 

1888! 

1889. 
(I 

1840 ! 

(( 
(( 
tt 
t( 

1841. 

(t 

(( 
(( 

1842. 

u 

t( 
(( 

«( 
{( 

184S 


Nmn".  Tonn. 

Brockvllle 880. 

.Com.  Rarrlo 275. 

Enterprise 2iX) 

.Union 800. 

.Traveller   ' 850. 

.St.  George 400 

.Sir  Robert  Peel 850. 

.Gore 200. 

.  Queen  Victoria 200 

.  Experiment 150 . 

.  Henry  Glldersleove 260 . 

.Ontario  800. 

.Highlander  (1st) 800. 

.Albion 200. 

.America  (Ist) 3"0. 

.  Sovereign 475 

.City  of  Toronto 500. 

.Prince  Edward 2i'0. 

.Frontenac  (2d) 200. 

.  Princess  Royal 600. 

.Canada  (2d) 450. 

•  Despatch 200. 

.  Prince  of  Wales 200 . 

.Admiral. 400 

.Chief  Justice  Robinson..  400 

.Welland(lst) 800. 

.Mohawk  (Iron) 150. 

.  Cherokee  (gov.  steamer)  700 . 
.EcliDse 400. 


W!ier(«  tiiillt.        ReniHrkii. 

..Brockvllle. 
.  .Kingston— lost  in  1842. 
.  Kingston— broken  up. 
.  .Oakvllle— chani^ed  to  barque^ 
.  .Nlapnra— tow  l)oat. 
..Kingston    laid  up. 
.  .Brockvllle    burnt  In  1888. 
.  .Niagara    runs  on  Lake  Huron. 
.  .Niagara— wrecked. 
. .Niagara— broken  up. 
.  .Kingston— tow  boat. 
. .  Prescott— name  clmnged. 
.  Coteau  du  Lac— broken  up. 
..Brockvllle. 
. .  Niagara — tow  boat 
, .  .Niagara-  broken  up. 
.  .Niagara— tow  boat. 
. .  Kingston— lost  In  1848. 
.  Kingston— broken  up. 
..Niagara— tow  boat. 
. .  .Prescott— tow  boat. 

, laid  up. 

.  .Kingston -name  changed. 

.  .Niagara— runs  ou  St.  Lawrence. 

.  .Niagara - 

, . .    burnt  in  1856. 

.  .Kingston— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 
. .Kingston— sent  to  Halifax. 
..Niagara— chuufircd  to  schooner* 


160  LIST    OP    STEAMERS,    ETC, 

TRADE  AND  NAVIGATION  OF   THE  WELLAND  AND  ST. 

LAWliEN(  E   CANAL8. 

fp„.«_  __-                       Wellaiid  (anal.  St.  Lawrence  Cin'ftl. 

IRADK,  ETO.                              ,j,jjyg                 ,^,^^„g  ^^jjg                ,^,^,1^ 

VpsselH  of  all  kinds..    .1,470.842  $82,«23  1,04'.»,2:{0  8i:{.427 

Pusscn^^nH  (No.) 5,087          401  28,214       l,4»)8 

Producj  of  Forest 238,213     26,385  381,305     13, 172 

Farm  Stock 134           33  1,208         174 

Animal  Produce 9,116      2,367  7,520       1.470 

Vof^etable  Food 721,140  163.918  421,2(i5     82.1>.'.7 

ALjricultiiral  Products..        6,732      1,662  17,452      2.!t37" 

Manufactures 171,977     34,746  75,022     12,052 

Merchandise 96,453    21,501  60,556     10,528 

Total  am't  Tolls. . . .                  $283,836  $147, 185 


Statement  showing  the  total  nuraher,  national  cliaracter, 
and  tonnage  of  vessels  which  passed  on  and  through  the  "Wel- 
land,  St.  Lawrence,  Chambly,  Burlington  Ray,  and  Rideau  and. 
Ottawa  Canals,  during  the  year  18(52,  and  amount  of  Tolls. 

VkSRFLB    AND    STKAMErg  ' '^"*^'- '  AlTl't  Of  Tollg 

VESSELS  AND   BTEAMBRS.  jj^  rj^^jg  ^^^  VoSSelS. 

Carutdian. 

Welland  Canal 3,355  511,355  $7,303  25 

St.  Lawrence  Canal 10,704  1,028,033  13,271  87 

Chambly  and  St.  Ours  Lock 1,861  115,039  1,277  52 

Burlington  Bay 1 ,835  274, 153  1 ,077  50 

St.  Ann's  Lock 3,914  236,343  294  30 

Kideau  and  Ottawa 0,088  371,063  5,781  68 

Total  Canadian 27,757  2,536,586  $32,320  12 

Welland  Canal 3,924  065,487  $25,459  78 

St.  Lawrence  Canal 300  29,597          15i)  96 

Chambly  and  St.  Ours  Lock 657  39,513          486  74 

Burlington  Bav 83  12,565           74  00 

St.  Ann's  Lock 86  5,386           67  33 

Rideau  and  Ottawa 35  2,262           33  93 

Total  American. 5,085  1,045,810  $26,277  74 

Gr.  Total,  American  &  Canadian..  32,842  3,582,296  $58,603  86 


LIST   OF    8TBAMERS,  RTO.  161 

LIST  OP  BRITISH  STEAMERS  BUILT  AND  RITNNINO  ON  TUB 
ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER,  BELOW  MONTREAL  SINOE  1810. 

Bnllt.        Nftmn.  Turn.  Wli«r«  built.     Renurki. 

1810  Accommodation....  — .Montreal -brokon  up. 

1812  Swiflsuro —  Montreal -broken  up. 

1814.MalHliam — Montreal— brokon  up. 

1810  Car  of  Comnfierce...  —  Montreal -broki'ii  up. 
1817. Lady  Sberbrooke.. .  —.Montreal—broken  up. 

"     Caleilonla     ..t — .Montreal    broken  up. 

"    .Telegraph   —.Mon'reul— brok"n  up. 

18lS  New  SwifiHure — .Montreal    broken  up. 

"     Quebec  (Jut) —.Quel)cc— broken  up. 

1820. Montreal  (I'st) —.Montreal— broken  up. 

'*     xjham  ly   —.Montreal— broken  up. 

"    .8t.  Lawrence  (Isl). .  —.Montreal— broken  up. 

1822  LaPrairio —  Montreal- broken  up. 

1825.  IlenulcH  .    800.  Montreal— broken  up. 

"   .Edmunl  Henry —.Montreal -l)roken  up. 

1826  Waterloo 200  Lr.  Prairie.  C.  E.  -  lost  in  the  ice. 

1829  British  America  —  891. Montreal— broken  up. 

"     John  Molson 8i»0.  Montreal— broken  u|). 

1S32  Voy:if?eur 800  Montr-al- broken  up. 

"    .Canada SoO.Montreal— broken  up. 

"    .Canadian  Eagle 250  Montreal    broken  up.  | 

"    .Patriot loo  Montreal— broken  up.  1 

1838. Britannia. l')5  Montreal— broken  up. 

ia34  John  Bull 600. Montreal— burnt  in  1839. 

1886. Princess  Vietoria..  171. Montreal— tow  l)Oiit. 

1837. Charlevoix 200. Montreal— broken  up. 

18}i9  Lady  Colborne 250  Montreal— broken  up. 

"    .Lord  Sydenham  —  —  Lake  Ontario — broken  up. 

1840. Queen.     872  Sorel,  C.  E.— laid  up. 

1841. Montreal  (2(1) 878. Montreal— wrecked  ls53. 

1842  North  America ISl. Montreal    broken  up. 

1848.  Alliance  192. Montreal— laid  up. 

'*    .St.  Louis 190  Sorel,  C.  E.—lai(l  up. 

"    .Prince  Albert (lron).lS3  Montreal  - Chainpl:iln& St. Lawr'nce Ferry 
1846 .  Lord  Elnjln  155i  Lake  Ontario  -  Montreal  to  Kingston. 

"    .Quel)ec  (2d) 400. Quebec —Montreal  to  Quebec. 

"    .Rowland  Hill. 250  Quebec— tow  boat. 

1846  John  Munn 4o0 .  Quebec  —Montreal  to  Quebec. 

"    .Richelieu 70  Sorel,  C.  E.-Montreal  to  Chambly. 

1847. Iron  Duke  (Iron)...  1(59.  Montreal  -  Champlain  &  St.  Lawr'nce  Ferrj 

"    .Ottawa 270  Montreal. 

1848.  Jaquea  Cartier 7S  Sorel,  C.  E.— Montreal  to  Three  Blvera. 

1849  Crescent 72 .  Montreal— laid  up. 

1852 .  Castor 76 .  Montreal  -  Montreal  to  Throe  Rivers. 

"   .St.  Lawrence  (2d)... 800 , 

18^4. Montreal  (8d) 800. Quebec  -Burnt,  June  27,  1857. 

"    .J.  M'Ker.zie 250. Quebec— Montreal  to  Quebec. 

"    .Saguenay 800. Sorel,  C.  E.— Quebec  to  Saguenay. 

"    .PrlncessRoyal --.Lake  Ontario— Quebec  to  Saguenay. 

"    .Huron    350  Sorel,  C.  E. 

"    .  Musk  Rat 160  Montreal— Montreal  to  LonguelL 

l855.Cultivateur 60  Montreal— Montreal  to  Berthler. 

'    .Advance —  .Quebec-Quebec  to  River  du  Loup. 

1856. Napoleon 114. Montreal— Montreal  to  Quebec. 

**   .  Victoria. 114 .  Montreal- Montreal  to  Quebei^ 


l02 


CANALS  OF  CANADA. 


CANAL8  OP  CANADA,  SnOWINO  THEIR  LENGTH, 

LOCK8,  ETC. 


nAMBii,  uro.  Ill  mllM. 

Welland  Canal. 
Main  Trunk,  Port  Colborno  to 

Pt.  Dalhousie 28 

Dunnville  Feeder,  junction  to 

Dunnville  21 

Broad  Creek  Branch 1  i 

St.  Lawrence. 

The  Gallops 2 

Point  Iroquois 8 

Rapid  Plat 4 

Farren's  Point | 

Cornwall llj 

(Long  Saut  Rapids) 
Beauharnois 11| 

(Cascade,  Cedars,  etc.) , 
La  Chine 8^ 


Locki.    \f']'^f 

III  ItiUt. 


27      330 


Coat 


1 
1 

2 

1 
2 
1 
7 

9 

5 


£1,001,497 


8 
8 


8    ^ 
6 

in 

4 

48 

82J 
45 


^£1,052,001 


£305,331 
£-181,736 


Total,  from  L.  Erie  to  Montreal    69 
Add  fall  not  requiring  locks  . 
Fall  from  Montreal  to  tide- 
water at  Three  Riv.,  C.  E. 


64 


Grand  total 


535  feet. 
17 

18 

505  feet. 


Lock!.    ^"ck«f« 
III  fuet. 


Cost. 


Note. — Lake  Huron  is  elevated  nine  feet  above  Lake  Erie, 
and  Lake  Superior  is  elevated  20  feet  above  Lake  Huron — 
making  a  total  elevation  above  tide- water,  or  the  ocean,  of  0<J0 
feet,  according  to  recent  surveys. 

Li'nstli  In 
nitlcH. 

Chambly  Canal 11 J 

(River  Richelieu) 

St.  Ours  Lock,  do 

St.  Anne's  Lock. 

(Ottawa  River) 

RiDEAU  Canal. 

Kingston  to  Ottawa  City  . .  126        87      457      £965,000 
Ottawa  Canal  and  Locks  .  £117,647 


9 
1 
1 

87 


74 
6 

457 


TRIP  FROM  KINGSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


The  American  steamers  on  leaving  Kingston  on  their  trip  to 
Ogdenaburgh  run  between  Grand  Island  and  Howe  Island,  two 
lar;;e  islands  belonging  to  the  IJritish,  when  they  enter  the 
American  (Channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  land  at  Clayton, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  French  Creek,  while  the  Caimdiim 
steamers  usually  run  the  North  or  Briti^Ii  Channel,  piisning 
Gananoqui,  20  miles  below  Kingston.  This  is  usually  the  first 
landing  made  by  the  British  steamers  in  descending  the  river, 
unless  they  stop  to  take  in  wood  at  some  of  the  numerous  islands. 

The  Thousand  Islands. — The  remarkable  group  of  islundg 
in  the  Hiver  St.  Lawrence  called  **  The  Thousand  I.s/nnds,''* 
commences  opposite  the  city  of  Kingston,  and  stretches  down  the 
river  for  between  40  and  GO  miles,  for  which  distance  the  8t. 
Lawrence  is  between  six  and  twelve  miles  wide.  They  lie  partly 
in  Canada  and  partly  witiiin  the  bounds  of  the  State  of  Now 
York,  the  boundary  line  between  the  United  States  and  Canada 
dividing  them  into  about  equal  parts. 

From  an  examination  of  Bayfield's  chart  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
Rivei',  it  appears  that  Wolfe  or  Grand  Island,  belonging  to 
the  British,  is  18  miles  long  and  from  one  to  six  miles  wide. 
This  is  the  largest  island  of  the  group,  and  contains  much  good 
land,  being  inhabited  by  a  number  of  families.  A  canal  is  com- 
menced, extending  across  this  island,  to  facilitate  trade  with 
Cape  Vincent. 

Gage  Island,  lying  west  of  Grand  Island,  is  three  miles  long. 
On  its  southwest  end  may  be  seen  a  light-house  as  you  approach 
Kingston  from  Toronto  or  Oswego.  The  American  boats  usually 
run  between  this  island  and  Wolfe  Island,  through  the  Packet 
or  Bateau  Channel. 

On  Garden  Island,  opposite  Kingston,  is  situated  a  large 
lumber  establishment,  where  may  usually  be  seen  vessels  taking 
in  lumber,  destined  for  different  ports. 


164  KINGSTON    TO    MONTREAL. 

Howe  Island,  also  belonging  to  the  British,  is  eight  milea 
long,  and  from  one  to  two  miles  wide,  lying  near  the  Canada 
shore.  The  usual  steamboat  route,  on  ascending  and  descending 
the  river,  is  between  this  island  and  Wolfe  Island,  running 
through  the  Kingifon  or  British  Channel ^  a  wide  expanse  of 
^wator,  extending  from  near  Kingston  to  French  Creek,  on  the 
American  side. 

The  American  CAanneZ  runs*  east  of  Wolfe  or  Grand  Island, 
between  that  and  Cape  Vincent,  where  extends  the  boundary 
line  between  the  two  countries,  this  being  considered  the  main 
channel. 

Carleton  Island,  belonging  to  the  United  States,  is  situ- 
ated Ljarly  opposite  Cape  Vincent.  It  contains  about  1,200 
acres  of  excellent  land,  and  is  an  important  island,  as  it  com- 
mands the  American  Channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  has  two 
fine  coves  or  harbors  at  the  upper  end,  where  are  extensive 
lumber  stations.  Here  was  erected  a  fort  by  the  British  in 
1777,  and  it  became  their  principal  military  and  naval  depot 
for  Lake  Ontario  during  the  Revolutionary  War.  Some  years 
afterward,  the  shipping  and  public  stores  were  removed  to 
Kingston,  but  the  island  was  retained  and  occupied  by  British 
troops  until  1812,  when  the  guard  was  surprised  and  taken  by 
a  party  of  New  York  militia. 

The  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  among  the  islands  here  vary 
at  different  seasons  from  three  to  four  feet  in  height,  exposing 
some  hundreds  of  islets  at  its  lowest  stage. 

The  fish  most  abundant  are  the  maskalonge,  pickerel,  black 
bass,  pike,  perch,  rock  bass,  cat-fish,  and  eels.  The  maskalonge, 
pickerel,  and  black  bass  are  taken  by  trolling ;  the  pike  are 
taken  in  nets,  and  the  perch,  rock  bass,  etc  ,  are  taken  by  hook 
and  line. 

On  the  islands  are  found  deer,  foxes,  raccoons,  rabbits,  squir- 
rels, musk  rats,  and  minks ;  also  partridges,  quail,  and  wild  ducks 
in  abundance. 

Grindstone  Island,  five  and  a  half  miles  long,  belongs  to 
the  United  States.    This  is  a  large  island,  lying  in  the  mid- 


KINGSTON    TO    MONTRHAL.  I(l5 

die  of  the  river,  a  short  distance  below  the  mouth  of  French 
Creek.  Here,  it  is  said,  the  noted  Bill  Johnson  has  his  favorite 
abode,  either  on  the  main  island,  or  the  small  island  in  its  im- 
mediate vicinity,  called  Johnso7i\s  Island. 

Well's  Island,  another  large  and  important  island,  eight  or 
nine  miles  in  length,  is  attached  to  the  State  of  New  York ;  it 
lies  mostly  above  the  '  i  !age  of  Alexandria,  the  boundary  line 
running  on  its  west  side,  where  lies  a  beautiful  body  of  water, 
called  the  *'  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands"  which  is  a  favor- 
ite resort  for  the  angler  and  sportsman. 

Thk  Admiralty  Islands  are  a  group  lying  below  How« 
Island,  and  belong  to  the  British.  Here  the  Canadian  Channel 
becomes  a  perfect  labyrinth  for  a  number  of  miles,  and  the 
navigation  would  be  very  dangerous  were  it  not  for  the  great 
depth  of  water  and  bold  shores  of  the  islets,  and  light  houses. 

The  Fleet  Group,  or  Navy  Islands,  commence  opposite 
Grindstone  Island,  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river,  and  ex- 
tends for  some  distance  below  to  opposite  Well's  Island.  Here 
the  boundary  line  runs  close  to  the  latter  island,  giving  most 
of  the  small  islands  to  the  British. 

The  Old  Friends  are  a  small  group  immediately  below 
Well's  Island,  belonging  to  the  United  States. 

The  Indian  Group  also  lie  on  the  American  side  of  the  chan- 
nel, a  few  miles  below  the  latter  islands. 

The  Amateur  Islands  lie  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  oppo- 
site Chippewa  Creek,  and  are,  in  part,  attached  to  the  State  of 
New  York,  and  a  part  belong  to  Canada,  the  boundary  line 
running  between  them. 

Immediately  below  the  latter  islands  the  river  contracts  to 
one  or  two  miles  in  width,  and  the  Thousand  Islands,  of  which 
there  are  at  least  fourteen  hundred,  may  be  said  to  terminate, 
although  a  large  collection  of  islands  called  Broclc's  Group, 
lying  mostly  on  the  Canada  side,  are  passed  a  short  distance 
below  the  village  of  Brockville,  where  the  St.  Lawrence  Rivef 
is  about  one  mile  wide,  which  width  it  averages  for  30  or  -10 
miles,  until  you  approach  the  rapids  below  Ogdensburgh,  when  . 


160  KINGSTON    TO    MONTIIKAL. 

it  narrows  to  about  half  a  mile  in  width,  with  bjtnks  iterated 
but  a  few  feet  above  the  water. 

"  The  main  stream  of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  says  Buckingham, 
speaking  of  the  Thousand  Islands,  '•  is  so  thickly  studded  with 
iblands  that  it  is  like  passing  through  a  -vast  archipelago,  rather 
than  navigating  a  mighty  river.  They  are  for  the  most  part 
rocky  islets,  sometimes  rising  in  abrupt  clififs  from  the  water, 
and  so  bold  and  steep  that  you  may  run  the  boat  near  enough 
to  touch  the  cliffs  from  the  vessel.  A  few  only  are  low  and  flat, 
but  being  nearly  all  wooded,  they  form  a  perpetual  succession 
of  the  most  romantically  beautiful  and  picturesque  groups  that 
can  be  conceived." 

Among  the  Thousand  Islands  are  usually  found  immense 
quantities  cf  water-fowl  and  other  kinds  of  wild  game,  which, 
during  the  spring  and  summer  months,  afford  great  pleasure  to 
the  sportsman.  The  fishing  is  also  excellent  for  the  most  part 
of  the  year.  During  the  months  of  July  and  August,  pleasure 
parties  from  the  surrounding  country,  and  strangers  from  a 
distance,  resort  here  for  their  amusement,  enjoying  themselves 
to  their  heart's  content  by  hunting,  fishing,  and  bathing,  being 
surrounded  by  wild  and  interesting  scenery  and  invigorating 
air,  not  exceeded  by  any  section  of  the  United  States  or  Canada. 

The  St.  Lawrence  River,  in  fact  for  its  entire  length  of  sev- 
eral hundred  miles,  presents  a  magnificent  appearance,  well 
worthy  the  attention  of  the  tourist.  The  Rapids,  now  success- 
fully navigated  on  their  downward  trip  by  steamboats  of  a  large 
class,  returning  through  the  canals,  afford  a  deeply  interesting 
excursion.  The  cultivated  fields  and  settlements  interchanging 
with  bolder  features,  impart  a  grandeur  as  well  as  variety  and 
beauty  to  the  river  and  its  shores  which  no  other  stream  on 
the  continent  possesses  in  an  equal  degree. 

BuocKviLLE,  50  miles  below  Kingston  and  125  miles  above 
Montreal  by  railroad  route,  is  a  beautiful  and  flourishing  town 
of  about  5,000  inhabitants ;  it  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  a 
custom-house,  several  churches,  two  good  hotels,  and  many  fine 
buildings,  besides  several  extensive  manufacturing  establiah* 


KINGSTON   TO   MONTREAL.  *        l6T 

ments.  Here  is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing,  Trherc  the 
American  and  British  pasaage-boats  usually  land  on  their  trips 
up  and  down  the  river,  the  stream  here  being  about  two  miles 
in  width. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Railwai/,  which  runs  through  the  town, 
has  added  much  to  the  growth  and  trade  of  this  place.  The 
Brockvillc  and  Ottawa  Railroad,  which  is  in  the  course  of  con- 
Btruction,  when  finished,  will  farther  add  to  its  prosperity,  the 
country  in  the  rear  being  very  fertile  and  heavily  timbered, 
producing  large  quantities  of  grain  and  lumber. 

Maitland  is  a  small  village,  'five  miles  below  Brockvillo,  on 
the  same  side.  It  contains  a  church,  a  public  house,  and  some 
300  inhabitants. 

The  town  of  Prescott,  G.  W.,  is  situated  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  directly  opposite  Ogdensburgh,  being  60 
miles  below  Kingston  and  1 13  miles  above  Montreal  by  railroad 
route.  This  point  may  be  considered  as  the  foot  of  lake  and 
river  navigation  for  sail  vessels,  as  the  Gallop  Rapids  occur  about 
six  miles  below,  where  commences  the  first  of  the  series  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  canals,  terminating  with  the  La  Chine  Canal,  which 
enters  Montreal.  Prescott  is  a  port  of  entry  and  contains  a 
custom-house,  a  town-hall,  four  churches,  six  public  houses,  20 
or  30  stores,  a  foundry  and  machine-shop,  together  with  several 
breweries  and  distilleries,  and  three  extensive  laundries.  This 
is  also  a  great  depot  for  lumber  and  country  produce. 

British  and  American  steamers  usually  land  at  Prescott  several 
times  daily  on  their  route  up  and  down  the  St.  Lawrence.  Tw^o 
steam  ferry-boats  are  also  constantly  running  between  this  place 
and  Ogdensburgh.  The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  passes  through 
the  town,  and  the  Ottawa  and  Prescott  Railroad,  53  miles  in 
length,  terminates  here,  aifording  a  speedy  and  direct  route  to 
Ottawa  City  and  the  lumber  region  above. 

No  section  of  Canada  has  fairer  prospects  of  advancement 
than  Brockville  and  Prescott,  if  the  advantages  are  embraced 
of  forming  lines  of  railroads  to  the  upper  Ottawa  country,  lying 
as  they  do  nearer  to  that  heavily  timbered  region  than  MontreaL 


168 


KINGSTON    TO    MONTREAL. 


Fort  Wellington,  adjoining  the  lower  part  of  the  town,  is  a 
strong  fortification  usually  garrisoned  by  more  or  less  British 
troops.  Windmill  Point,  one  mile  and  a  half  below  the  fort, 
was  the  scene  of  an  unfortunate  attack  by  the  patriots  of  1838, 
who,  after  effecting  a  landing  and  maintaining  their  position  with 
great  determination  for  several  days,  were  taken  prisoners,  many 
of  whom  were  afterward  executed  at  Kingston,  and  others  tran- 
sported to  Van  Dieman's  Land. 


KINGSTON    TO    MONTREAL.  109 


EAPIDS  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

On  rcsumino;  the  (Icjwnwnrfl  trip,  after  leaving  Prescott  or 
Of^denshurgh,  the  most  interesting  objects  are  presented  to  view 
from  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  The  depot  buildings  of  tlio  Xorth- 
ern  Railroad  of  New  York,  on  the  one  side,  and  Windmill  Point 
on  the  Canada  side,  are  quickly  passed  and  the  Rapids  soon 
readied. 

Chimnky  Island,  four  miles  below  Prescott,  is  an  inter<?st- 
ing  spot,  where  may  be  seen  the  remains  of  a  fortification, 
erected  by  the  French  during  the  early  settlement  of  Canada. 

The  Gallop  Rapids,  six  miles  below  Prescott  or  Ogdensburgh, 
are  easily  passed  by  steamboats,  although  they  prevent  the 
navigation  of  the  St.  Lawrence  by  sail  vessels.  They  extend 
for  about  two  miles,  around  which  is  a  ship  canal  on  the  Canada 
side  of  the  river,  overcoming  a  descent  of  seven  feet. 

Matilda,  eight  miles  farther,  is  a  convenient  steamboat 
landing  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river,  where  is  a  canal  one 
mile  and  three-quarters  in  length. 

Waddiwgton,  on  the  American  shore,  18  miles  below  Og- 
densburgh, lies  opposite  Ogden's  Island,  which  is  passed  to  the 
right,  descending  through  the  main  channel,  forming  the  bound- 
ary line.  Here  commences  Rapid  Plat,  and  extends  about  two 
and  a  half  miles.  Another  canal  of  the  same  length  is  built 
on  the  Canada  shore,  to  overcome  the  descent  in  the  river  of 
eleven  and  a  half  feet. 

Williamsburg,  seven  miles  below  Matilda,  is  a  regular 
steamboat  landing,  where  passage-boats  usually  touch  ascend- 
ing and  descending  the  river.    Here  is  another  short  canal. 

Chrysler's  Farm,  a  few  miles  below  Williamsburg,  is  the 
place  where  was  fought  a  battle  in  the  war  of  1812,  between 
the  English  and  Americans,  in  which  the  latter  were  defeated, 
with  considerable  loss  in  killed  and  wounded. 

Louisville  Landing,  28  miles  below  Ogdensburgh,  is  where 
passengers  leave  for  Massena  Springs,  six  miles  distant  by 
stage.   This  is  a  great  resort  for  invalids  during  warm  weather. 


ITO  KINGSTON    TO    MONTREAL. 

The  Long  Saut  Rapids,  extending  from  Dickinson's  Land- 
ing, 40  miles  below  Prescott,  to  Cornwall  on  the  Canada  side, 
is  one  of  the  longest  and  most  important  rapids  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. They  are  divided  by  islands  into  two  channels,  the 
American  Channel  and  the  Lost  Channel.*  Formerly,  the 
American,  or  East  Channel,  was  mostly  run  by  steamers  in  the 
downward  trip,  but  of  late  the  Lost  Channel,  on  the  Canadian 
Bide,  is  mostly  used.  This  channel  presents  a  grand  and  ter- 
rific appearance,  the  water  being  lashed  into  a  white  foam  for 
several  miles,  yot  still  the  steamer  glides  rapidly  through  them 
into  the  quiet  and  beautiful  expanse  of  water  below  Cornwall. 

The  CoR?fWALt.  Canal,  commences  72  miles  above  Montreal, 
on  about  the  4oth  degree  of  north  latitude,  the  dividing  line  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Canada.  It  extends  to  Dickinson's 
Landing,  11^  miles,  ove:'coming  48  feet  descent  in  the  St.  Law- 
rence. Bar nh art  Island  and  Long  Saut  Island,  two  large  and 
cultivated  bodies  of  land,  belong  to  the  State  of  New  York, 
while  Cornwall  Island  and  Sheek's  Island  belong  to  Canada, 
dividing  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  into  two  channels,  for 
most  of  the  distance  through  the  rapids. 

Cornwall.  112  miles  from  Kingston  and  70  miles  above 
Montreal,  is  situated  on  the  northwest  side  of  the  river,  at  the 


•  Passaok  of  tub  Long  Saut  Rapid.— Those  who  have  traveled  on  the 
8t.  Lawrence  are  aware  that  between  Dickinson's  Landing  and  Cornwall, 
a  distance  of  frotn  twelve  to  fourteen  miles,  there  is  a  long  rapid  called  the 
Loiiy  S<nit.  Tliis  rapid  is  divided  into  two  channels  by  an  island  in  the 
center,  the  chaniuM  on  the  south  side  being  the  one  which  has  heretoforo 
been  descended  by  steamers  and  other  large  craft  passing  down  the  river. 
Capt.  Maxwell,  tlie  enterprising  commandi-r  of  the  mail  steamer  "  Gilder- 
Bleeve,"  having  some  time  ago  become  impressed  with  an  idea  that  the 
channel  on  tiie  north  side  of  the  island  was  not  only  practical)le  lor  vessels 
of  a  large  class,  Init  that  it  was  much  safer  and  easier  of  descent  than  the 
channel  on  the  south  side,  made,  with  much  trouble,  soundings  and  obser- 
vations, f.>r  tlie  purpose  of  ascertaining  whether  such  was  re  d!y  the  case. 

Having  well  satisfied  himself  in  the  matter,  he  (with  Mr.  Hamilton'* 

Sermission)  made  a  descent  down  the  North  Channel,  some'iniis  called 
■ost  Cfianne  ,  in  the  mail  steamer  "  Oildersleeve."  The  passage  was 
magnificent,  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  Rapid  far  surpassing  even 
those  of  the  Rapids  at  the  C  dars,  the  Cascades,  or  La  Cliine.  0>r;ng  to 
the  great  rapidity  of  t'le  current,  the  water  is  much  rougher  ;han  on  the 
Bouth  side  of  the  island,  but  the  clmnnel  is  straighter,  and  in  every  respect 
better  than  the  oae  hen'tofore  adopted,  and  there  is  little  doubt  that  ere 
long  the  North  Channel  will  be  the  one  which  the  main  traffic  of  the  river 
Will  pass  ihroxx^li.— Montreal  Herald. 


KINGSTON    TO   MONTREAL.  171 

lower  end  of  the  Cornwally  or  St.  Lawrence  Canal.  The 
town  contains  about  2,500  inhabitants,  400  d\vjll!n^  houses,  a 
court-house  and  jail,  five  churches,  twenty  stores,  an  1  several 
hotels.  Thij  is  a  regular  steamboat  landing  for  American  and 
British  steamers.  The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  also  passes 
through  the  rear  part  of  the  town. 

St.  Rkgis,  four  miles  below,  on  the  American  side  of  tho 
river,  is  situated  on  the  line  of  the  45th  degree  of  north  lati- 
tude, the  St.  Lawrence  below  this  point  being  entirely  in 
Canada.  St.  Regis  is  an  Indian  village,  part  of  its  inhabitants 
living  in  the  United  States  and  part  in  Canada.  It  contains 
four  or  five  hundred  inhabitants,  80  dwelling  houss-!,  one  Roman 
Catholic  church,  one  Protestant  church,  one  tavern,  and  two 
stores.  Here  is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing,  where  during 
warm  weather  may  sometimes  be  seen  Indian  boys,  prcpired  to 
plunge  into  the  water  on  having  a  piece  of  mon.jy  thrown  over- 
board :  often  it  is  caught  by  these  expert  swimmers  before 
reaching  the  bottom. 

Lake  St.  Francis,  a  most  beautiful  expanse  of  water,  is  an 
expansion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  above  Coteau  du  Lac,  extending 
for  a  number  of  miles.  It  is  studded  with  lovely  and  pictur- 
esque islands,  giving  a  variety  to  the  scenery  of  this  river  which 
is  almost  indescribable.  The  Indian  village  of  St.  Regis,  and 
an  island  owned  by  the  natives,  lie  near  its  upper  termina- 
tion. 

L\NCA8TKR,  15  miles  below  Cornwall,  lies  on  the  west  side 
of  the  lake,  or  river,  here  presenting  a  wide  surface,  the  waters 
calmly  pursuing  their  course  downward  before  rushing  impetu- 
ously down  the  several  rapids  below  Coteau  du  Lac,  or  the  foot 
of  the  lake. 

At  Coteau  dxt  Lac,  40  miles  above  Montreal,  commences  a 
rapid  of  the  same  name,  extending  about  two  miles  Seven 
miles  below  this  commences  the  Cedar  Rapid y  which  extends 
about  three  miles.  (  See  Frontispiece. )  Then  comes  Split  Rock 
and  Cascade  terminating  at  the  head  of  Lake  St.  Louis,  where 
the  dark  waters  of  the  Ottawa,  by  one  of  its  mouths,  joins  tho 


172  KINGSTON    TO    MONTRRnt. 

St.  Lawrence.     These  four  rapids,  in  eleven  miles,  have  a  dd- 
Bcent  of  82^  feet,  being  overcome  by  the  Bo.uiluivnois  Cjinil. 

The  grandeur  of  tlie  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  these  R'lpids 
can  not  be  conceived  without  being  witnessed.  The  miglity  St. 
Lawrence  is  here  seen  in  all  its  magnificence  and  power,  l)eing 
lashed  into  a  foam  for  miles  by  the  impetuosity  of  its  current. 
The  Cedar  Rapids*  have  hitherto  been  considered  the  most 
formidable  obstruction  to  downward-bound  craft,  but  the  new 
South  Channel,  or  McPherson's  Channel,  as  it  is  now  called, 
affords  an  additional  depth  of  water.  The  steamer  Jii/toivn, 
Capt.  Wm.  Sujfhrue,  in  1848,  was  the  first  steamboat  that  de- 
scended this  cliannel,  which  was  brouglit  into  notice  by  D.  3. 
McPherson,  Esq.,  one  of  the  late  firm  of  the  forwarding-bouse 
of  McPherson,  Crane  &  Co 

Bkauharn-qis,  24  miles  above  Montreal,  lies  at  the  foot  of 
the  Cascade  Rapids,  wliere  commences  the  Bcauharnois  Canal ^ 
12  miles  in  length,  overcoming  altogether  a  descent  of  82^  feet 
Between  Fond  du  Lac  and  Beauharnois.  or  the  foot  of  the  Cas- 
cade Rapids,  is  the  most  wild  and  romantic  scenery  that  the  St. 
Lawrence  presents. 

Caughnawaga,  ten  miles  above  Montreal,  is  an  Indian  vil- 
lage, numbering  several  hundred  inhabitants.  Here  commences 
the  Montreal  and  P/attsbiirgh  Railroad,  52  miles  in  length.  It 
is  proposed  to  construct  a  ship  canal  from  this  place  to  the  Riche- 
lieu River,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain,  thus  uniting  the  waters 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Hudson  River,  via  Champlain  Canal. 

La  Chine,  eight  miles  above  Montreal,  is  situated  at  the  foot 
of  an  expansion  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  called  Lake  St.  Louis, 
where  enter  the  black  waters  of  the  Ottawa  River,  the  St. 
Lawrence  presenting  a  greenish  hue,  the  difference  in  the  color 
of  the  waters  being  plainly  visible  for  many  miles  below. 

The  La  Chine  Rapids,  a  few  miles  above  Montreal,  are  the 
last  rapids  of  importance  that  occur  on  the  St.  Lawrence.   They 

*  It  was  here  that  Gen.  Amherst's  brigade  of  800  men,  on  their  way  to 
attack  Canada,  then  in  pcxssession  of  the  French,  were  lost !  At  Montreal 
thoy  received  the  first  intelligence  of  the  iavuaion,  by  the  dead  bodieg 
floating  down  the  river  past  the  town. 


KI50ST0N   TO   MONTREAL.  173 

are  now  considered  the  most  dangerous  and  diflBcult  of  navign- 
tiou.  These  rapids  are  obviated  by  the  La  Chine  Canal,  8J 
miles  in  length,  overcoming  a  descent  of  44^  feet.  Canals  of  a 
/arge  capacity  now  run  round  all  the  rapids,  enabling  steamers 
of  a  large  size  to  ascend  the  river,  although  at  a  much  less 
speed  tlian  the  downward  trip. 

*'  The  St.  Lawrence  is  perhaps  the  only  river  in  the  world 
possessing  so  great  a  variety  of  scenery  and  character,  in  the 
short  distance  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles — from  Kingston 
to  Montreal.  The  voyage  down  this  portion  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence in  u  steamer  is  one  of  the  must  exciting  and  interesting 
that  our  country  aifords  to  the  pleasure-seeking  traveler. 
Starting  at  daylight  from  the  good  old  city  of  Kingston,  we  are 
at  first  enraptured  by  the  lovely  and  fairy-like  scenery  of  the 
*  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Isles,'  and  oft  we  wonder  how  it  is  that 
our  helmsman  can  guide  us  through  the  intricate  path  that  lies 
before  him.  Surely  he  will  make  some  mistake,  and  we  shall 
lose  our  way,  and  our  steamer  wander  for  ages  ere  the  track- 
less path  be  once  more  discovered.  H  wever,  we  are  wrong, 
and  long  before  the  sun  has  set  we  have  shot  the  '  Long  Saut/ 
and  are  passing  through  the  calm  and  peaceful  Lake  St.  Francis. 
Gently  we  glide  along,  and  are  lost  in  pleasing  reveries,  which 
grace  the  scenes  of  our  forenoon's  travel.  Sudds3nly  we  are 
awakened  from  our  dreams  by  a  pitch,  and  then  a  quick  jerk 
of  our  vessel,  and  rising  to  see  the  cause,  we  find  curij^lves  re- 
ceiving warning  in  the  Coteau  Rapids,  of  what  we  may  expect 
When  we  reach  the  Cedars,  a  few  miles  farther  on.  Now  the 
bell  is  rung  for  the  engine  to  slow  its  spaed,  and  glancing  tow- 
ard the  beam,  we  find  it  merely  moving  sufficient  to  keep  head- 
way on  the  vessel ;  now  looking  toward  the  wheelman's  house, 
we  see  four  men  standing  by  the  wheel ;  backward  we  turn  our 
gaze,  and  four  more  stand  by  the  tiUtr,  to  assist  tlxos3  at  the 
wheel  in  guiding  our  craft  down  the  fearful  leaps  she  is  about 
to  take.  These  preparations  striking  us  with  dread,  we,  who 
are  now  making  our  first  trip,  involuntarily  clutch  the  nearest 
object  for  support,  and  checking  ohr  breath,  await  the  first 

E lunge.  'Tis  over.  We  are  reeling  to  and  fro,  and  dancing 
ithor  and  thither  among  billows  of  enormous  size,  caused  solely 
by  the  swiftness  of  the  current.  With  difficulty  we  keep  our 
feet  while  rushing  down  the  tortuous  channel,  through  which 
only  we  can  be  preserved  from  total  wreck  or  certain  death. 
Now  turning  to  the  right,  to  avoid  a  half-sunken  rock,  about 
whose  summit  the  waves  are  ever  dashing,  we  are  apparently 
running  on  an  island  situated  immediately  before  us.  On  i  on 
We  rush !    We  must  ground !  but  no ;  her  head  is  easing  off,  and 


174  '     RAPIDfl   OP   THE    ST.    LAWRENCB. 

as  wc  fly  past  the  island,  a  darinc  leap  might  land  ub  on  its 
shores ;  and  now  again  we  are  toHSod  anrl  whirled  ahout  in  a  Hoa 
of  foam ;  we  look  back  to  scan  the  dangers  passed,  and  see  a  raft 
far  behind,  struggling  in  the  waves.  While  contemplating  its 
dangers,  we  forget  our  own.  and  the  lines  of  Horace  appear  pe- 
culiarly applicable  to  the  Indian  who  first  intrusted  Lis  frail 
canue  to  these  terrific  rapids  : 

*  Illi  robur  et  .ts  triplex 

Circii  pi'ctuH  crat,  qui  fVagilem  trucl 
CoinrniMit  pulago  ruluiu 
Primus .' " 


RAPIDS  OF  THE  ST.  LAWKKNCE— EXCITEMENT  OF  TUE 

TRIP. 

Evtr  act  from  a  Correspondent  of  the  Detroit  Advertiser— ISHQ. 

"Lkaving  Hamilton  in  the  evening,  on  board  one  of  the 
splendid  steamers  navigating  Lake  Ontario,  running  direct  for 
the  St.  Lawrence  River,  a  distance  of  about  180  miles,  we  had 
a  very  pleasant  night  on  the  lake,  and  arrived  at  Cape  Vincent, 
N.  Y.,  at  7  n  vt  morning;  discharged  some  freight,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  Brockville,  Canada,  and  thence  toOgdcnsburgh,  N.  Y., 
where  we  arrived  about  noon ;  passing  from  Cape  Vincent  to 
Ogdensburgh  {via  the  Express  Line  of  steamers),  we  thread  our 
winding  way  through  among  the  Thousand  Islands ;  here  is  no 
monotony,  for  the  scenery  is  continually  changing  and  ever 
beautiful. 

"  I  have  spoken  of  the  route  by  which  I  came  to  Ogdens- 
burgh ;  another  very  plejisant  route  is  by  way  of  the  steamer 
from  Detroit  to  Buffalo,  thence  to  the  Niagara  Falls,  taking  the 
boat  at  Lewiston.  By  this  route,  passengers  may  see  many 
points  of  interest,  which  they  do  not  see  in  traveling  by  the 
direct  route. 

'♦  On  Wednesday,  July  17th,  we  left  Ogdensburgh  on  the 
steamer  Montreal,  Capt.  J.  Laflamme,  ran  acr9ss  the  St. 
Lawrence  to  Prescott — then  headed  down  the  river  to  MontreaL 
At  six  miles  from  Ogdensburgh  we  passed  the  first  rapid 
(Gallop).  This  being  the  first  of  a  series  of  rapids  that  we  had 
to  pass  on  our  way  to  Montreal,  we  had  the  curiosity  to  notice 
the  effect  the  scene  had  on  the  passengers.  The  first  with  whom 
we  came  in  contact  was  a  nervous  old  gentleman,  and  he  was 
rushing  from  one  side  of  the  boat  to  the  other,  with  fear  and 
admiration  depicted  on  his  countenance,  while  excitement  had 
taken  possession  of  his  whole  frame. 

*'  Here  is  a  group  of  sentimental  young  ladies  ;  so  deeply  are 
they  absorbed  in  drinking  in  the  sickly  sentiments  of  tlie  cheap, 
yellow-covered  literature  which  they  hold  in  their  hands,  thai 


RAPFDS    OF    TriE    8T.    LAWIIRNCR.  175 

thoy  know  nothiii':^  of  the  wild  and  beautiful  Rccne  through 
which  we  are  piiHsinj?.  This  is  not  the  cumi  witl>  ull,  for  many 
avo  standinpr  or  Hoatcd  near  the  rnilinp;  of  the  deck,  lookiiij; 
calmly  at  the  turbulent  waters,  and  discoursing  upon  the  cause 
of  all  this  commotion  :  othersj  stand  in  the  background,  wishin;?, 
but  fearing  to  look  at  the  trembling  of  the  waves.  We  are  nr,w 
past  the  first  rapid,  or  the  "  (Jallops,"  and  the  water  is  uuw^n 
a  state  of  perfect  culmness,  and  so  are  the  passengers. 

*'  The  boat  stc,  .  a  few  moments  at  Louisville,  :»•')  miles  from 
Oi;d(>nsburgh.  At  this  point  the  river  is  divided  by  an  island, 
and  here  begins  the  Lanff  Sunt  a  rapid  of  nine  miles  in  length; 
formerly  the  boats  pa.ssed  <lown  the  .s(»uth  side,  where  the  water 
runs  with  greater  rapidity  The  north  side  is  calletl  the  '  Lost 
Channel,'  a  name  given  to  it  by  the  French  boatmen,  as  they 
supposed  that  if  a  boat  drifted  into  it,  it  would  certainly  be 
lost.  A  channel  has  been  found  on  the  north  side,  and  now 
the  steamers  pass  by  it  in  preference  to  the  south  channel. 

"  As  we  approach  the  rapid,  the  grand  and  lofty  tum>)ling  of 
the  waters,  as  they  brciik  upon  the  projecting  rocks,  have  an 
angry  appearance,  and  look  as  if  they  were  preparing  to  en- 
gulph  us.  We  are  standing  upon  the  bow  of  the  boat,  and  are 
fascinated  by  the  view  of  the  scene,  yet  we  involuntarily  turn 
our  eyes  to  the  pilot-house,  in  front  of  which,  on  an  elevation, 
stands  the  captain,  and  at  the  wheel  are  four  strong  men. 
Neither  fear  nor  anxiety  is  to  be  perceived  in  either  counte- 
nance ;  but  with  their  eyes  fixed  upon  the  landmarks,  and  their 
strong  hands  upon  the  wheel,  they  guide  the  sliip  through  the 
narrow  and  crooked  channel  with  unerring  precision.  The 
grand  and  picturesque  scene  has  now  brought  all  to  tlieir  feet ; 
the  novel-readers  have  dropped  their  books,  and  the  excitement 
of  reality  now  surpasses  the  excitement  of  their  fiction  The 
nervous  man  is  standing  liareheaded  against  the  pilot-house, 
with  both  hands  elevated,  mouth  open,  and  an  exclamation  upon 
the  end  of  his  tongue  as  his  tongue  refuses  to  act ;  but  as  the 
boat  glides  o  t'  the  last  billow  into  smooth  water,  the  ex- 
clamation drop..  rn  his  lips,  his  mouth  shuts  with  a  sudden 
jerk ;  and  as  he  subsides  into  a  calm  he  wipes  the  sweat  from 
his  brow,  and  is  glad  that  he  has  seen  and  passed  over  that 
rapid.  Only  a  small  portion  of  the  Long  Saut  is  very  rough, 
the  rest  of  it  has  much  the  appearance  of  Hell  Gate,  N.  V. 

"  After  passing  the  Long  Saut,  the  boat  stops  a  few  moments 
at  Cornwall  on  tlie  Canada  side.  In  a  short  time  after  leaving 
Cornwall,  the  river  widens  into  a  lake,  which  is  called  Lake  Sf, 
Francit.  This  lake  is  about  forty  miles  in  length.  Having 
passed  it,  the  boat  stops  a  few  moments  at  the  village  of  Coteau 
du  Lac. 

"Soon  after  leaving  the  Coteau,  we  pass  the  Cottdu,  Cedar, 


176  RAPIDS    OP    THE    ST.    LAWRENCE. 

Split-Rock,  and  Cascade  Rapids.  The  passage  of  these  rapids 
is  very  exciting,  particularly  the  Split-Rock;  here,  as  th«)  boat 
is  by  the  action  of  the  water  lifted  above  the  rocks,  and  then 
dropped  down  among  them,  the  waters  covering  and  then  re- 
ceding and  leaving  the  rocks  nearly  bare,  upon  either  side, 
looks  fearfully  dangerous ;  the  channel  is  narrow,  the  current 
rapid,  and  the  boat  is  carried  along  at  a  2  40  pace ;  but  the 
boat  is  strong,  and  a  skillful  pilot  is  at  the  helm,  and  the  pas- 
sage is  very  quickly  and  safely  made. 

*'  The  river  again  widens,  and  is  called  Lake  St.  Louis.  At 
the  foot  of  this  lake,  on  the  south  side,  is  the  Indian  village  of 
Cauglmawaga.  Here  a  boat  comes  off  from  the  village,  and 
brings  an  Indian  named  Baptiste.  He  is  a  fine-looking  man, 
apparently  about  sixty  years  of  age;  he  comes  on  board  to  pilot 
the  boat  over  the  La  Chine ^  which  is  the  last  but  most  dangerous 
of  the  rapids.  No  man  but  Baptiste  has  ever  yet  piloted  a 
steamer  over  these  rapids.  As  the  boat  moves  onward  to  the 
rapids,  all  the  passengers,  even  to  the  novel-readers,  are  anx- 
ious to  get  a  good  position  in  order  to  have  a  good  view  of  ths 
heaving,  breaking,  and  laughing  waters.  As  we  enter  the 
rapids,  we  appear  to  be  running  upon  a  small  grass- covered 
rocky  island.  Indeed,  as  the  bow  of  the  boat  is  so  near  that  it 
appears  to  be  impossible  to  clear  it,  we  look  to  see  if  the  pilot 
is  at  the  helm.  Yes,  there  stands  the  captain  at  his  post  in 
front  of  the  wheel-house,  and  the  Indian  pilot,  with  three  other 
strong  men  are  at  the  wheel;  and  as  we  look  at  the  caLu  coun- 
tenance of  the  Indian,  and  see  that  his  bright  eye  does  not  so 
much  as  wink,  but  is  fixed  steadily  upon  his  beacon,  whatever 
?  *;  may  be,  and  that  the  wheelsmen  are  fully  under  his  control 
we  feel  that,  with  his  skill,  care,  and  knowledge  of  the  way,  w 
may  banish  fear  from  our  thoughts. 

"  Baptiste  is  a  noble  Indian ;  he  guides  the  boats  among  the 
islixnds  and  the  rocks,  over  the  rapids  and  through  the  intricate 
channels,  as  easily  as  a  skillful  horseman  reins  a  high-spirited 
charger.  As  quick  as  thought  the  boat  glides  away  from  those 
rocks  which  it  appeared  impossible  to  avoid,  but  the  pilot  ap- 
parently is  insensible  to  fear,  though  not  to  the  responsibility 
that  rests  upon  him.  He  is  aware,  and  all  are  aware,  that  one 
false  move  and  all  is  lost ;  for  the  current  is  so  swift,  the  seas 
run  so  high,  and  the  boat  is  driven  so  rapidly,  that  one  touch 
upon  a  rock  would  shiver  her  to  atoms.  Although  the  passage 
of  the  rapids  appears  to  be  dangerous,  a  sense  of  pleasure  and 
excitement  takes  the  place  of  fear.  Just  as  we  left  the  La  Chine 
Kapids,  looking  for  the  nervous  man— there  he  stood,  shaking, 
laughing,  and  exclaiming, '  that  caps  the  climax.'  In  about 
half  an  hour  after  leaving  this  last  rapid,  we  enter  the  harbor 
;f  Montreal." 


J  \     V 


RAILl^OAD  ROUTE  FROM  MOXTREAL  TO  TORONTO, 
..       ETC.,  VTA  GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY. 


The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  of  Canada,  extending  from  Montreal 
to  Toronto,  and  from  the  latter  place  to  near  Sarnia,  situated 
at  the  foot  of  Lake  Huron,  affords  a  speedy  mode  of  travel. 
The  following  is  a  description  of  the  route  from  Montreal 
westward,  ascending  the  noble  St.  Lawrence. 

The  depot  is  situated  near  the  termination  of  the  Victoria 
Bridge^  about  one  mile  from  the  center  of  Montreal.  On  leav- 
ing the  depot  the  La  Cliine  Canal  is  soon  passed,  and  then 
the  Montreal  and  La  Chine  Railroad,  the  track  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  extending  westerly  across  the  fertile  island 
of  Montreal,  passing  in  sight  of  Lake  St.  Louis,  formed  by  the 
junction  of  the  Ottawa  and  St.  Lawrence  rivers. 

St.  Anne's,  21  miles  from  Montreal,  is  a  French-Canadian 
village,  of  some  four  or  five  hundred  inhabitants.  Here  is  a 
Roman  Catholic  church,  and  a  number  of  picturesque  edifices 
situated  near  the  water's  edge.  The  rapids,  government  lock  for 
steamers,  and  the  railroad  bridge,  together  with  the  beautiful 
Ottawa  and  islands,  altogether  aflford  a  magnificent  view,  al- 
most unrivaled  for  river  scenery.  A  few  miles  westward  may 
be  seen  the  hills  giving  the  name  to  the  Lake  of  the  Two 
Mountains.  '     ■  ....  ,  ,  . 

Isle  Pkrot,  about  two  miles  in  width,  is  next  p«wsed  over  by 
the  upward  train,  and  another  branch  of  the  Ottawa  crossed, 
when  the  care  stop  at  the   .  .      .  . 

«  Vaudreuil  Station,  situated  about  half  a  mile  below  the 
village  of  the  same  name.    Here  a  lovely  view  is  obtained  of  th« 


118         MONTRE\L  TO  TORONTO,  ETC. 

Ottawa,  its  islands,  and  the  hills  of  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Moun- 
tains in  the  distance.  The  railroad  track,  on  leaving  the 
Ottawa,  runs  through  a  fertile  tract  of  country  for  several 
miles,  the  village  of  the  Cedars  being  passed  on  the  left,  some 
two  miles  distant. 

CoTEAU  Statiox  is  37  miles  from  Montreal  and  one  and  a 
half  miles  from  the  landing ;  here  is  a  scp.ttered  settlement 
of  French  Canadians,  numbering  about  500  i-uiabitanta. 

Lancaster,  54  miles  from  Montreal,  ia  situated  on  the 
north  shore  of  Lake  St.  Francis,  an  expansion  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence River.  Here  is  a  population  of  about  700  inhabitanta, 
mostly  of  Scotch  descent. 

Cornwall,  68  miles  from  Montreal,  is  a  thriving  town,  situ- 
ated at  the  foot  of  the  Long  Saut  Rapids.  It  contains  about 
2,500  inhabitants.  Here  the  trains  usually  meet,  and  the  pas- 
sengers are  furnished  refreshments.  This  is  also  a  convenient 
steamboat  landing,  where  the  Royal  Mail  Line  of  steamers  stop 
daily  on  their  trips  up  and  down  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Dickinson's  Landings  77  miles ;  Aultsburg,  84  miles ;    Wil" 

liamsburgt  92  miles ;  Matilda^  99  miles,  and  Prescott  Junction^ 

.32  miles,  are  soon  reached  and  passed  by  the  ascending  train. 

The  line  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  from  Vaudreuil  to 
Brockville,  a  distance  of  100  miles,  runs  through  a  level  section 
of  country,  from  a  half  to  two  miles  distant  from  the  St.  Law- 
rence River,  which  is  only  seen  occasionally  from  the  passing 
train  of  cars. 

The  town  of  Prescott,  113  miles  from  Montreal,  and  60  miles 
from  Kingston,  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  north  bank  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  opposite  the  village  of  Ogdensburgh.  It  con- 
tains a  population  of  about  3,000  inhabitants.     (^See  pnge  259.) 

The  Ottawa  and  Prescott  Railroad,  54  miles  in  length,  ex- 
tends from  Prescott  to  Ottawa  City,  intersecting  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  On  leaving  Prescott  the  railroad  runs  through  a  level 
country  to  Ktmptville^  28  miles,  and  thence  to  Ottawa  City, 
a  further  distance  of  80  miles.    This  is  now  the  most  speedy  and 


MONTREAL   TO    TORONTO,    KTO. 


179 


favorite  route  from  Montreal  to  the  Upper  OttaTra,  passengers* 
baggage  being  checked  through,  via  Prescott. 

Brockvillk,  125  miles  above  Montreal,  and  208  miles  below 
Toronto,  is  one  of  the  most  important  stations  on  the  line  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  it  being  a  flourishing  town  of  about 
5,000  inhabitants.  The  Brockmlle  anfi  Ottawa  Railroad  will 
extend  from  this  place  to  Pembroke,  situated  100  miles  above 
Ottawa  City.  The  railroad  route  from  Srockville  to  Kingston, 
48  miles,  continues  along  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Ontario  to 
Oobourg,  90  miles  farther,  and  thence  to  Toronto,  70  miles  j 
being  a  total  distance  of  333  miles 

Fot  further  information  in  regard  to  Kingston,  Cobourg, 
Toronto,  etc.,  see  Trip  from  Hamilton  and  Toronto  to  Kingi' 
ton,  etc. 


A« 


f.-r 


^     MONTREAL. 

f 

The  City  of  Montreal,  the  largest  and  chief  seat  of  com- 
merce of  British  America,  is  favorably  situated  at  the  head  of 
Bhip  navigation  on  the  left  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River, 
here  about  two  miles  in  width.  It  lies  170  miles  above  Quebec 
and  350  miles  below  Toronto,  by  water,  in  N.  lat.  45°  30',  and 
W.  long.  73°  25'  from  Greenwich.  TUe  site,  although  not  so 
commanding  as  Quebec,  is  in  every  other  respect  superior, 
lying  at  the  foot  of  a  romantic  eminence  from  which  it  derives 
its  name,  called  Mount  RoyaL  which  hill  rises  in  picturesque 
beauty,  about  one  mile  from  the  city,  to  the  height  of  550  feet, 
forming  a  prominent  object  in  the  picture  from  every  point  of 
view  The  streets,  although  somewhat  irregular,  present  a  fine 
and  clean  appearance.  Notre  Dame  Street,  the  Broadway  of 
Montreal,  is  the  principal  promenade  and  seat  of  the  fashion- 
able retail  trade ;  it  is  about  one  mile  in  length  and  has  many 
elegant  stores,  built  of  stone  in  the  most  durable  manner.  St. 
Paul  Street,  lying  nearer  the  water,  is  mostly  filled  with  whole- 
sale stores.  Qreat  St.  James  Street  is  a  wide  and  beautiful 
avenue,  where  are  located  most  of  the  banks  and  insurance 
offices;  togetlier  with  hotels  and  other  substantial  build'  igs. 
McGill  Street  is  filled  with  stores  and  offices  of  diflfersnt  kinds, 
running  across  the  streets  enumerated  above.  Water  Street, 
Commissioners'  Street,  and  Common  Street  extend  the  entire 
length  of  the  city,  facing  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River  and  La 
Chine  Canal ;  at  times  presenting  a  pleasing  and  lively  appear- 
ance when  the  harbor  and  canal  are  filled  with  steamers  and 
Bail  vessels  of  diflFerent  kinds.  From  whatever  side  the  city  is 
approached,  either  by  water  or  land,  the  scene  is  one  of  much 
interest ;  if  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  Victoria  Bridge  and  islands 
first  attract  attention ;  then  the  splendid  towers  of  the  Cathedral, 
the  tall  spires  of  other  churches,  the  elegant  front  of  Bonsecoura 


MONTREAL.  181 

Market,  the  magnificent  stone  quay,  and  the  long  range  of  cut- 
Btoiie  buihiings  which  front  the  river,  form  at  once  a  tout  et^ 
teinhle  which  is  unequaled.     Pop.  in  1861,  90.323. 

The  public  buildings  in  Montreal  are  numerous;  many  of 
thcni  massive  and  costly  edifices.  The  most  noted  is  the  Roman 
Catholic  or  French  Cathedral^  situated  on  Notre  Dame  Street, 
fronting  the  Place  d' Armes ;  it  is  built  in  the^Gothic  stylo  of 
architecture,  25d  I'eet  in  length  by  134  in  breadth ;  it  has  six  tow- 
ei-s,  of  which  the  three  belonging  to  the  main  front  are  220  feet 
In  height.  The  principal  window  is  G4  feet  in  height  and  32 
in  breadth.  The  interior  has  several  desks  or  altars,  and 
is  capable  of  accommodating  from  6  to  7,000  persons,  who 
can  disperse  by  several  outlets.  *'  This  church  boasts  the 
possession  of  a  magnificent  set  of  bells,  one  of  which,  weigh- 
ing thirteen  tons,  is  hung  in  the  western  tower,  and  is  the 
largest  bell  in  America.  Under  the  church,  the  entire  space 
is  occupied  by  a  cemetery — in  which  the  more  wealthy  of  the 
Roman  Catholics  are  interred."  The  Seminary  of  St.  Suipice, 
adjoining  the  Cathedral,  is  a  substantial  stone  building,  at  pres- 
ent only  finished  to  the  extent  of  half  the  proposed  plan.  In 
this  building  is  transacted  all  the  parochial  business,  and  also 
the  secular  affairs  connected  with  the  very  valuable  property 
belonging  to  the  priests  of  the  seminary.  There  are  several 
other  Roman  Catholic  churches,  mostly  belonging  to  the  order 
of  St.  Sulpice,  to  the  members  of  which  Montreal  chiefly  owed 
its  foundation,  and  who  still  hold  the  seigniory  of  the  island  on 
which  it  stands. 

The  Protestant  churches,  consisting  of  the  Church  of  England 
or  Episcopal,  the  Church  of  Scotland  (Presbyterian),  the  Con- 
gregational, the  Baptist,  the  Methodist,  and  other  persuasions, 
are  numerous ;  Montreal  being  justly  celebrated  for  its  church 
edifices  and  church -going  people.  There  are  also  a  great  num- 
ber of  nunneries  and  charitable  institutions  in  the  city,  botli 
under  Roman  Catholic  and  Protestant  management.  The  court- 
house and  prison  are  new  and  subst^intial  stone  buildings,  occu 
pyiug  the  ate  of  the  former  college  of  the  Jesuits.     Tlic  govern- 


182  MONTREAL. 

xnent  house,  barracks,  ordnance  office,  six  T.anks,  and  five 
market-houses,  the  principal  of  which  is  the  Bonsecours  Market, 
are  among  the  remaining  public  buildings.  Nelson's  Monument, 
a  colossal  statue  of  tlie  hero  of  the  Nile,  is  placed  on  a  Doric 
column,  the  pedestal  of  which  has  bas-reliefs  representing  n.Tval 
actions.  McGill  College  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  base  of 
the  mountain,  and  is  richly  endowed.  Here  are  also  a  Baptist 
college  and  two  Roman  Catholic  colleges,  besides  numerous 
other  educational  institutions.  Montreal  has  a  theater-royal, 
an  exchange  building,  a  penitentiary,  a  house  of  industry,  a 
hospital,  water  works,  gas  works,  a  custom-house,  a  board  of 
trade,  scientific  institutions,  religious  and  benevolent  institu- 
tions, and  numerous  well-kept  hotels. 

The  favorable  position  of  Montreal  for  trade  and  commerce, 
both  foreign  and  domestic,  makes  it  a  great  thoroughfare  for 
men  of  business,  as  well  as  of  the  pleasure-seeking  community. 
The  facilities  afforded  by  means  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ot- 
tawa rivers,  in  connection  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and 
other  railroads,  open  a  ready  communication,  not  only  with  all 
parts  of  Canada,  but  with  Portland,  Me.,  Boston,  and  the  city 
of  New  York  ;  the  latter  city  being  only  400  miles  distant,  and 
connected  during  the  season  of  navigation  by  two  popular  lines 
of  travel.  The  harbor,  tliough  not  large,  is  safe  and  conven- 
ient ;  vessels  drawing  15  feet  may  lie  close  to  the  quay,  which 
is  a  most  substantial  stone  structure  of  upward  one  mile  ib 
length.  The  La  Chine  Cannh  nine  miles  long,  admits  steam- 
ers of  a  large  size  on  their  upward  trips,  they  usually  running 
the  Rapids  on  their  downward  trips  from  the  Lakes  above  and 
the  Ottawa  River.  Besides  steamers  of  a  large  class  running 
to  Quebec,  steamships  run  regularly,  during  the  season  of  navi- 
gation, between  Montreal  and  Liverpool,  making  quick  and 
profitable  voyages.  The  trade  through  Lake  Champlain.  mostly 
by  means  of  the  Champlain  and  St.  Lawrence  Railroad,  44 
miles  in  length,  is  immense — so  much  so  as  to  require  a  ship 
canal  from  Caughanawa,  or  opposite  Montreal,  to  the  navigably 
waterd  of  the  Richelieu  River,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain.   . 


MONTREAL.  .183 

The  Montreal  and  Platlshur^h  Railroad^  52  miles  in  length 
aniting  with  the  La  Chine  Railroad,  forms  a  direct  line  of  travel 
to  Plattsburgh,  situated  on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Champlain. 
The  Montreal  and  Ottawa  Railroad^  under  construction,  will 
add  greatly  to  the  advantage  of  Montreal. 

I'lie  Victoria  Bridi/e,  now  erected  across  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  immediately  above  tlie  city,  is  fully  completed,  and 
forms  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  age  ;  it  crosses  the  river  from 
Point  St.  Oharles  to  the  south  shore,  a  total  length  of  10,284 
feet,  or  about  50  yards  less  than  two  miles.  It  is  to  be  built 
on  the  tubular  principle,  and  will  have  a  track  for  railroad  cars 
in  the  center,  while  on  the  outside  of  the  tube  there  will  be  a 
balcony  on  each  side,  with  a  footpath  for  passengers.  The 
bridge  will  rest  on  24  piers  and  two  abutments  of  limestone 
masonry  ;  the  center  span  being  330  feet  long,  and  60  feet  high 
from  summer  water-level,  descending  at  either  end  at  the  rate 
of  one  in  130.  It  is  in  every  respect  to  be  built  in  the  most 
substantial  manner,  and,  when  completed,  will  cost  the  enor- 
mous sum  of  £1.250.000  sterling,  or  $6,250,000.  The  contents 
of  the  masonry  will  be  3,000,000  of  cubic  feet.  The  weight  of 
iron  in  the  tubes  8,000  tons.  The  following  are  the  dimensions 
of  tube  through  which  the  trains  pass  in  the  middle  span,  viz.  : 
22  feet  high,  16  feet  wide ;  at  the  extreme  ends,  19  feet  high, 
16  feet  wide.  This  gigantic  structure  is  in  rapid  progi-ops  of 
construction,  and,  it  is  understood,  will  be  completed  in  1859, 
or  early  in  1860. 

The  drives  and  inviting  excursions  about  Montreal  are  nu- 
merous, and  highly  appreciated  by  visitors  from  more  southern 
climes.  The  foremost  stands  the  excursion  around  the  mount- 
ain, which  stands'  as  a  beacon  to  point  out  the  true  position  of 
the  city  on  nearing  or  departing  from  this  romantic  city.  Other 
drives  up  or  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  or  on  almost  any  part  of 
the  fertile  island  of  Montreal,  are  attended  with  pleasure  and 
delightful  emotions.  '*  Besides  these  excursions,  the  tourist 
will  find  his  time  well  repaid  by  a  visit  to  the  Saut-au-Rc<K>l- 
lect,  which  ia  a  series  of  Rapids  at  the  northern  side  of  the 


184  GRAND    TRUNK    RAILWAY. 

island,  on  a  branch  of  the  Ottawa  called  La  Riviere  des  Prairieii 
Here,  besides  the  beauty  of  the  Hcenery,  he  may  see  the  rafti 
from  the  Ottawa  making  the  dosccnt — an  exciting  exploit  both 
to  the  spectators  and  hardy  crows,  though  from  the  rarity  of 
accidents  we  must  conclude  that  the  skill  of  the  voyageurs  baa 
taught  them  to  avoid  any  real  danger." 

Population  of  Montreal — 1852. 

Males 27,586    Other  countries 1,457 

Females 30,129 

Roman  Catholics 41,468 

Total  population 67,716    Protestants 16,1'j6 

French  Canadians 20,020    Number  of  houses  ....     7,420 

British  Canadians 12,494  "         families  . . .     9,y90 

English,  Irish,  &  Scotch  17,774 


GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY   OP   CANADA. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  the  greatest  scheme  of  its 
kind  in  America,  embraces  in  its  ramifications  the  construction 
of  a  continuous  line  of  railway  from  Trois  Pistoles,  C.  E.,  about 
160  miles  below  Quebec,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  river  St. 
Lawrence^  the  point  at  which  a  junction  with  the  proposed  Hal- 
if  ax  Railway  is  looked  forward  to — and  Port  Sarnia,  C.  W.,  on 
Lake  Huron,  a  distance  of  upward  of  800  miles — also  a  branch 
line  of  50  miles  in  length,  from  Belleville  to  Peterborough,  C.  W. 
— and  the  leasing  of  the  railroad  then  already  built  between 
Montreal  and  Portland,  Me.,  so  that  the  products  of  the  west- 
ern points  of  the  Province  might  be  conveyed  through  Canada 
to  the  Atlantic  seaboard,  without  break  of  guage  or  bulk.  The 
total  length  of  unbroken  railway  communication  which  will 
thus  be  obtained,  when  the  St.  Lawrence  River  is  spanned  by 
the  Victoria  Bridge,  a  structure  unequaled*  in  the  history  of 
engineering,  either  in  size  or  in  massive  proportions — is  up- 
ward of  1,100  miles.  The  original  capital  of  the  company  was 
£9.500,000,  but  this  being  found  insufficient,  it  has  been  de- 
termined to  increase  this  amount  to  £12,000,000  sterling,  or 
|!60,000,000.  Of  this  sum  the  Province  has  an  interest  in  the 
undertaking,  in  the  shape  of  a  guaranty,  to  an  amount  of  up- 
ward of  £3,000,000  sterling,  or  $15,000,000. 


GRAND    TRUNK    RAILWAY.  185 

GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY   AND   ITS  BRANCHES. 

Portland,  Me.,  to  Montreal 293  milea. 

Quebec  and  Richmond  Division 97      *' 

Kiviere  Du  Loup  Branch 120      " 

Montreal  to  Toronto 333      *• 

Toronto  and  Sarnia  DivUion 169      •* 

Totid  Distance 1,018  miles. 

T\\\s  important  Trunk  Railway  e.vtends  from  tlie  shores  of 
the  Athmtic  Ocean  to  the  foot  of  L.ike  Huron,  a  total  distance 
of  71)5  miles,  connecting  with  a  line  of  Steamers  running  from 
Barnla  to  Mackinac,  Green  Bay,  Milwaukee,  and  Chicago,  and 
other  ports  on  Lakes  Huron,  Michigan,  and  Superior,  forming 
altogether  the  most  exterhsive  line  of  travel  on  the  Continent 
of  America  under  one  direction. 

TliQ  Division  from  Montreal  to  Quebec  and  the  Riviere  du 
Loup  extends  a  distance  of  296  miles,  connecting  with  the 
tide  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  op^wsite  the  mouth  of 
the  Saguenay  River. 

The  Champlain  and  St.  Tjatcrence  Railrodd,  44  miles  in  length, 
running  from  Montreal  to  Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y.,  and  the  La- 
chine  and  Gaughmwago  Division  of  the  railroad  running  from 
Caughnewago  to  the  Province  Line,  40  miles,  and  from  thence 
to  Plattsburgh,  N.  Y.,  are  both  controlled  by  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  Company,  who  have  their  principal  offices  la 
Montreal.    For  Summer  Ajiungements.  see  Advertisement. 


I.  . 


TRIP  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  OTTAWA  CITY  AND  THE 
UPPER  OTTAWA  RIVER. 


Tourists  who  design  to  visit,  the  Ottawa  River,  and  view  its 
varied  and  beautiful  scenery,  should  leave  Montreal  by  steamer, 
or  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway ^  in  the  morning  for  St.  Anne's, 
21  miles ;  there  taking  a  steamer  for  Ottawa  City,  90  miles  far- 
ther; or  if  desired,  continue  the  railroad  route  to  Prescott,  113 
miles  from  Montreal,  and  proceed  by  Ottawa  and  Prescott  Bail- 
road.  The  La  Chine  Railroad  also  conveys  passengers  to  La 
Chine,  nine  miles,  from  whence  steamers  depart  daily  for  Ot- 
tawa City. 

At  St.  Annk's,  14  miles  above  La  Chine,  the  steamer  passe« 
through  a  lock  45  feet  wide  and  180  feet  long.  Here  is  a  suc- 
cession of  rapids  in  the  river,  and  several  small  islands.  The 
village  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  southwest  end  of  the  isl- 
and of  Montreal,  and  is  the  place  where  the  poet  Moore  located 
the  scene  of  his  admired  Canadian  Boat  Song.* 

CANADIAN  BOAT  SONG. 

BY   THOMAS  MOORE, 

Faintly  as  tolls  the  evening  chime, 

Our  voices  keep  tune  and  our  oars  keep  time ; 

Boon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim, 

We'll  sing  at  St.  Anne's  our  parting  hymn. 
Row,  brothers,  row,  the  stream  runs  fast, 
The  Rapids  are  near  and  the  daylight's  pasL 

"Why  should  we  yet  our  sail  unfurl  ? 

There  is  not  a  breatli  the  blue  wave  to  curl ;  ..^ 

But  when  the  wind  blows  off  the  shore, 
Oh  !  sweetly  we'll  rest  our  weary  oar. 
^  Blow,  breezes,  blow,  the  stream  runs  fast. 

The  Rapids  are  near  and  the  daylight's  past. 

♦  The  vot/ageura,  in  passing  the  Rapids  of  St.  Anne,  were  formerlj 
obliged  to  take  out  a  part,  if  not  the  whole,  of  their  lading,  owing  to  the 
small  depth  of  water  here  afforded.  It  is  from  this  village  that  the  Ca- 
nadians consider  they  take  tlieir  departure  on  ascending  the  Ottawa,  as  it 
Sossesses  the  last  church  on  the  island  of  Montreal,  which  is  dedicated  to 
le  tutelar  sairt  of  voyageurt. 


MONTREAL    TO    OTTAWA    CITT.  187 

Otffiwn'«  tide !  this  trcmbl!n»?  moon 

Bliall  "«H'  us  flont  ovor  thy  surgt's  soon. 

Saint  of  thlH  Rrccn  Mo !  hi-nr  our  prayers, 

Oil  I  errant  us  cool  heavens  nn<I  favoring  airs. 
Wow,  l)roeze«.  blow,  the  stream  runs  fast, 
Ttiu  Kupida  are  near  and  the  daylight's  past 

Two  miles  west  of  St.  Anne's  commences  the  Lake  of  the 
Two  JSIovntaina,  being  an  expansion  of  the  Ottawa,  about  ten 
miles  long  and  eight  miles  wide.  Here  a  brancii  of  the  river 
diverges  toward  the  northeast,  forming  the  west  boundary  of 
tho  island  of  Montreal.  Two  hills  to  the  north,  elevated  400 
or  500  feet  above  the  river  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  give 
the  name  to  this  body  of  water. 

The  Indian  Village  of  the  Two  Mountains  is  situated  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Ottawa,  about  25  miles  wQst  of  La  Chine. 
Here  reside  the  remnants  of  two  tribes,  the  Mohawks  and  Al- 
gonquins.  The  settlements  are  divided  by  a  Roman  Catholic 
church,  standing  near  the  river  side.  On  the  hill  toward  the 
north  are  situated  three  or  four  chapels.  The  highest  summit 
of  the  hill  or  mountain,  one  or  two  miles  distant,  is  called  t.'al- 
vary,  and  is  visited  by  the  Indians  and  whites  on  certain  re- 
ligious festivals  of  the  Roman  Cetholic  Church.  Here  the  river 
contracts  in  width  to  about  half  a  mile,  for  a  distance  of  one 
mile,  when  it  again  expands,  forming  the  Upper  Lake  of  the 
Two  Momitains.  About  nine  miles  farther  west  the  river 
again  contracts  to  half  a  mile  in  width. 

On  the  south  is  passed  the  settlement  of  Regaud,  and  a 
mountain  of  the  same  name. 

Carillon,  eight  miles  farther,  is  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Ottawa.  Here  are  rapids  in  the  river,  and  the  navigation  by 
steamboat  is  continued  by  means  of  a  lock  and  canal,  12  miles 
in  length. 

At  Point  Fortune,  opposite  Carillon,  passengers  going  to 
the  Caledonia  Springs  usually  take  a  stage  for  L'Original,  a 
distance  of  18  miles,  along  the  south  bank  of  the  Ottawa, 
which  affords  some  picturesque  views. 

At  Grenville,  12  miles  from  Carillon,  navigation  is  resumed 
VI  the  Ottawa  River,  for  a  further  distance  of  58  miles. 


188  MONTREAL  TO  OTTAWA  CITY. 

The  RiDEAu  Falls  (the  Curtain)^  so  called  from  their  re- 
Bcmblance  to  drapery,  is  formed  by  the  waters  of  the  Rideau 
River  precipitating  itself  into  the  Ottawa,  a  short  distance  be- 
low the  city  of  Ottawa.  This  is  a  beautiful  fall  of  30  feet,  and 
attracts  much  notice,  being  seen  to  advantage  from  the  steamer 
ascending  the  Ottawa. 

Chaudikre  Falls  {the  Boilins;  PoO*  which  are  second  only 
to  those  of  Niagara  in  grandeur  and  magnificence,  are  on  the 
Ottawa,  immediately  above  the  city.  These  falls,  in  i^onnectioa 
with  the  surrounding  scenery,  render  this  section  of  Canada 
very  attractive  to  tourists  seeking  health  or  pleasure.  -' 

The  City  of  Ottawa,  C.  W.,  the  capital  of  Canada,  occu- 
pies a  most  roijiantic  position  on  the  southwest  side  of  Ottawa 
River,  being  120  miles  distant  from  Montreal,  and  54  from 
Prescott  by  railway.  It  is  in  a  naturally  strong  situation,  and 
could  be  easily  rendered  almost  impregnable.  The  city  is 
divided  into  two  parts,  like  Quebec,  known  as  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Towns,  which  are  about  half  a  mile  apart.  The  Ridtau 
Canal  commences  here,  and  is  spanned  by  a  handsome  stone 
bridge,  forming  part  of  the  street  which  connects  the  two  por- 
tions of  the  town,  and  it  is  also  connected  with  HuLt,  on  the 
Lower  Canada  side  of  the  river,  by  a  fine  suspension  bridge 

The  city  is  justly  celebrated  as  being  a  great  mart  for  lum- 
ber, in  which  the  Ottawa  country  abounds.  In  the  neighbor- 
hood is  found  beautiful  pale-gray  limestone,  of  which  material 
many  of  the  edifices  are  constructed,  giving  a  handsome  and 
Bolid  appearance  to  the  place ;  the  streets  have  been  laid  out 
with  great  regularity,  and  are  very  wide.  Barrack  Hill,  a 
commanding  site,  is  retained  by  the  government,  where  are 
situated  the  new  government  buildings  for  the  use  of  the  Pro- 
vincial Parliament  of  Canada.  Here  are  situated  the  county 
buildings,  ten  churches  of  different  denominations,  four  or 
five  banking-houses,  several  well-kept  hotels,  together  with 
numerous  stores  and  extensive  grist-mills,  saw-mills,  and 
Qther  manufacturing  establishments.     Pop.  15,000. 

The  Ottawa  and  FrescoU  Railway,  64  miles  in  length,  ter- 


UPPER    OTTAWA    RIVER.  199 

mtnates  at  Prescott,  situated  on  the  St.  Lavrrenco  River,  di- 
rectly opposite  Ogdensburgh.  No  other  road  of  ite  length  in 
America  possesses  greater  advantages  than  this  railway,  if 
right  y  turned  to  account,  pointing  as  it  does  to  the  State  and 
city  of  New  York. 

Stages  and  Steamboats  run  daily  from  Ottawa  City  to  dif- 
ferent places  on  the  river  above  the  city,  affording  romantic 
excursions  during  the  summer  and  autumn  months. 

The  Union  Line  of  steamers  runs  from  Aylmer,  nine  miles 
above  Ottawa,  to  Joach^n,  150  miles  above  the  city.  The  pro- 
prietors have  three  iron  steamers,  with  fifty-horse-power  engines : 
one  running  from  Aylmer  to  Chatts;  one  from  Amprior  to 
Portage  Du  Fort,  and  one  from  Portage  Du  Fort  to  JoachJJL 
Those  boats  are  not  sufficient  to  do  the  business  that  is  now 
oflfered ;  and  it  is  a  remarkable  fact,  that  while  goods  are  car- 
ried in  winter  on  sleighs  over  this  route  for  50  cents  per  100 
pounds>  the  steamboat  charge  is  $1  25. 


VILLAGES  ON  THE  UPPER  OTTAWA  EIVER. 

Aylmer,  nine  miles  above  the  city  on  the  Lower  Canada 
Bide,  is  situated  at  the  outlet  of  Chaudiere  Lake,  through  which 
the  river  flows,  has  about  1,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  shire  town 
of  Ottawa  County.  Is  at  the  foot  of  steamboat  navigation 
above  the  city.  There  is  a  good  McAdam  road  from  the  city  to 
Aylmer. 

FiTZROY  and  Chatts — these  villages  are  connected,  and  situ- 
ated 32  miles  above  the  city,  with  about  600  inhabitants ;  the 
river  at  this  place  has  a  fall  of  52J  feet. 

Amprior,  40  miles  above  the  city.  This  place  has  sprung 
Into  existence  within  the  last  two  years ;  has  now  60  dwellings,, 
and  40  more  under  con^^ract.  A  railroad  is  now  under  contract 
from  Ottawa  City  to  Amprior,  to  be  completed  in  1858,  and  I 
understand  that  this  is  also  the  point  where  the  Brock vi  lie  and 
Pembroke  Railroal  comes  to  the  river.  The  river  has  a  fall 
here  of  twelve  feet     To  hear  the  descriptions  which  are  given 


190 


UPPER    OTTAWA    RIVER. 


of  this  section  of  the  country,  one  would  think  that  it  was  the 
Garden  of  Eden,  and  that  it  was  soon  to  be  reclaimed.  Those 
engaged  in  building  up  Amprior,  predict  that  it  is  soon  to 
become  the  Chicago  of  Canada. 

Portage  Du  Fort  is  GO  miles  above  Ottawa  City.  The 
river  here  has  a  fall  of  twelve  feet,  affording  good  water-power. 

Pembroke,  100  miles  above  the  city,  is  the  next  place  on  the 
river,  and  is  a  point  of  great  importance. 

The  Brockoille  and  Ottawa  Railroad,  when  completed,  will 
terminate  at  this  place,  and  afford  great  facilities  to  the  settle- 
ments on  the  Upper  Ottawa  River  and  its  tributaries 


OTTA^YA    RIVER. 


Copied  from  the  Canadian  Toueist. 

"This  river,  and  the  vast  fertile  territory  -which  it  drains, 
has  hitherto  been,  in  a  great  measure,  abandoned  to  the  oper- 
ations of  the  lumberman,  and  the  comparatively  few  farmers 
who  have  followed  his  steps  ;  but,  latterly,  its  capabilities  as 
an  agricultural  country  have  gradually  attracted  i  greater 
degree  of  attention,  which  the  proposal  of  connecting  its  waters 
with  Lake  Huron  and  the  Far  West  will  greatly  increase.  Of 
the  magnitude  of  the  river,  the  riches  of  its  banks,  and  the 
beauty  of  the  scenery,  we  can  not  better  speak  than  by  mak- 
ing use  of  the  excellent  Report  lately  made  by  a  Committee  of 
the  Canadian  House  of  Assembly  on  Railways : 

"  *  The  length  of  tfie  course  of  the  Ottawa  River  is  about  780 
miles.  From  its  source  it  bends  in  a  southwest  course,  and 
after  receiving  several  tributaries  from  the  height  of  land  sep- 
arating its  waters  from  the  Hudson  Bay,  it  enters  Lake  Temis- 
caming.  From  its  entrance  into  this  lake  downward  the  course 
of  the  Ottawa  has  been  surveyed,  and  is  well  known. 

"  '  At  the  head  of  the  lake  the  Blanche  River  falls  in,  coming 
about  ninety  miles  from  the  north.  Thirty-four  miles  farther 
down  the  lake  it  receives  the  Montreal  River,  coming  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles  from  the  northwest.  Six  miles  lower 
down  on  the  east,  or  Lower  Canada  bank,  it  receives  the  Kee- 
pawa-sippi,  a  large  river  which  has  its  origin  in  a  lake  of  great 
size,  hitlierto  but  partially  explored,  and  known  as  Lake  Kee- 
pawa.  This  lake  is  connected  with  another  chain  of  irregularly 
shaped  lakes,  from  one  of  which  proceeds  the  River  du  Moine, 
which  enters  the  Ottawa  about  a  hundred  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Keepawa-sippi. 

"  *  From  the  Long  Saut  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Temiscaming, 
two  hundred  and  thirty-three  miles  above  the  city  of  Ottawa, 
and  three  hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Ot- 
tawa, down  to  Deux  Joachim  Rapids,  at  the  head  of  the  Deep 
River,  that  is,  for  eighty-nine  miles,  the  Ottawa,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  seventeen  miles  below  the  Long  Saut,  and  some  other 
intervals,  is  not  at  present  navigable,  except  for  canoes.  Be- 
sides other  tributaries  in  tho  interval,  at  a  hundred  and  ninety- 
seven  miles  from  By  town,  now  called  Ottawa,  it  receives  on  the 
west  side  the  Mattawan,  which  is  the  highway  for  canoes  going 
to  Lake  Huron  by  Lake  Nippissing.    From  the  Mattawan  the 


192  OTTAWA    RIVER. 

Ottawa  flows  east  by  south  to  the  head  of  Deep  Kiycr  Roacb, 
nine  miles  above  which  it  receives  the  River  du  Moinc  from  the 
north. 

•'  *  From  the  head  of  Deep  Kivcr,  as  this  part  of  the  Ottawa 
is  called,  to  the  foot  of  Upper  AUumettes  Lake,  two  miles  below 
tlie  vilLigt;  of  Ponbrokc,  is  an  uninterrupted  reach  of  navigable 
v/atrr,  forty-three  miles  in  length.  The  general  direction  of 
the  river  in  this  part  is  southeast.  The  mountains  along  iho 
north  side  of  Deep  Uiver  are  up^v  .rd  of  a  thousand  feet  in 
height,  and  the  many  wooded  islands  of  AUumettes  Lake  rou- 
d(.T  the  scenery  of  this  part  of  the  Ottawa  magnificent  and  ex- 
ceedingly picturesque —far  surpassing  the  celebrated  Lake  of 
the  Thousand  Islands  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

"  '  Passing  the  sliort  rapid  of  AUumettes,  and  turning  north- 
ward round  the  lower  end  of  AUumettes  Island,  which  is  four- 
toon  miles  long  and  eight  at  its  greatest  width,  and  turning 
down  southeast  through  Coulonge  Lake,  and  passing  behind  the 
nearly  similar  islands  of  Calumet  to  the  head  of  Calumet  Falls, 
tljo  OM:uva  preaents,  with  the  exception  of  one  slight  rapid,  a 
rejich  of  fifty  miles  of  navigable  water.  Tiie  mountains  on  the 
noilh  side  of  ('oulonge  Lake,  which  rise  apparently  to  the 
height  of  fifteen  hundred  feet,  add  a  degree  of  grandeur  to  the 
scenery,  which  is  in  other  res-poets  beautiful  and  varied.  In 
the  Uppor  AUumettes  Lake,  a  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  from 
Ottawa,  the  river  receives  from  the  west  the  Petawawee,  one  of 
its  largest  tributaries.  Tliis  river  is  a  hundred  and  forty  miles 
in  leufjifh,  and  drains  an  area  of  two  thousand  two  hundred 
square  miles.  At  Pcmbrokt?,  nine  miles  lower  down  on  the 
same  side,  an  inferior  stream,  the  Indian  River,  also  empties 
itself  into  the  Ott.awa. 

"  '  At  the  head  of  Lake  Coulonge  the  Ottawa  receives  from 
the  north  the  Black  River,  a  hundred  and  thirty  miles  in  length, 
draining  an  area  of  eleven  hundred  and  twentj''  miles,  and  nine 
miles  lower  on  the  same  side  the  river  Coulonge,  which  is  prob- 
ably a  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  length,  with  a  valley  of  eight- 
een hundred  square  miles. 

*' '  From  the  head  of  the  Calumet  Falls  to  Portage  du  Fort, " 
the  head  of  the  steamboat  navigation,  a  distance  of  eight  miles, 
are  impassable  rapids.  Fifty  miles  above  the  city,  the  Ottawa 
receives  on  the  west  the  Bonnechcre,  a  hundred  and  ten  miles 
in  length,  draining  an  area  of  nine  hundred  and  eighty  miles. 
Eleven  miles  lower  it  receives  the  Madawaska,  one  of  its  great 
feeders,  a  river  two  hundred  and  ten  miles  in  length,  aad  drain- 
ing four  thousand  one  hundred  square  miles. 

"  « Thirty-seven  miles  above  Ottawa  there  is  an  interruption 
in  the  navigation,  caused  by  three  miles  of  rapids  and  falls,  to 
p^sg  which  a  railroad  has  been  made.    At  the  foot  of  the  rap* 


OTTAWA    RIVER  193 

Ids  the  Ottawa  divides  among  inlands  into  numerous  channels, 
presenting  a  mo.-it  imposing  array  of  separate  tails. 

•' '  Six  miles  above  Ottawa  begin  the  rapids  terminating  in  the 
Ottawa  Chaudih'f  Falls,  wliich,  iniVrior  in  impressive  grandeur 
to  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  are,  perhaps,  mor3  permanimtlv  inter- 
esting, as  presenting  great(#  variety.  The  greatest  height  of 
Chaudiore  Falls  is  about  forty  feet.  Arrayed  in  every  imagin- 
able variety  of  form — in  vast,  dark  masses,  in  graceful  cas- 
cades, or  in  tumbling  spray — they  have  been  well  described  as 
a  hundred  rivers  struggling  for  a  passage.  Not  the  least  inter- 
esting feature  which  they  present  is  the  Lost  Chaudiore,  where 
a  body  of  water,  greater  in  volume  than  the  Thames  at  London, 
is  quietly  sucked  down,  and  disappears  under  ground. 

"  '  At  the  city  of  Ottawa  the  river  receives  the  Ilideau  from 
the  west,  running  a  course  of  a  hundred  and  sixteen  miles,  and 
«l»*aining  an  area  of  thirteen  hundred  and  fifty  square  mdes.' 

"  The  city  of  Ottawa  is,  perhaps,  situated  more  pictur- 
esquely than  any  otlier  in  North  America,  with  the  exception 
of  Quebec.  The  view  from  the  Barrack  Hill — embracing,  as  it 
does,  in  one  covp  (Vceil,  the  magnificent  Falls  of  the  Chaudiere, 
with  its  clouds  of  snowy  spray,  generally  spanned  by  a  bril- 
liant rainbow  ;  the  Suspension  Bridge  uniting  Upper  and  Lower 
Canada ;  the  river  above  the  great  Falls,  studded  with  pretty 
wooded  islands,  and  the  distant  purple  mountains,  which  divide 
the  waters  of  the  (latineau  from  those  of  the  Ottawa — is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  in  the  Avorld. 

"  The  city,  now  containing  about  fourteen  thousand  inhabit 
ants,  sprung  up,  about  thirty  years  ago,  from  a  collection  of 
shanties  inhabited  by  the  laborers  and  artificers  employed  by 
the  Royal  Engineers  to  construct  the  Rideau  Canal.  This 
canal  (terminating  at  Kingston)  was  intended  by  the  govern- 
ment of  England  to  be  a  means  of  communication  between  the 
Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Lakes,  in  case  the  communication 
on  tlie  front  should  be  interrupted.  The  canal  was  designed  by 
Colonel  By,  of  the  Royal  Engineers,  and  the  present  city  of 
Ottawa  was  named  Bytown  in  memory  of  its  founder,  until, 
about  two  years  ago,  the  inhabitants  petitioned  the  Provincial 
Parliament  to  change  the  name. 

"  The  canal  is  a  splendid  specimen  of  engineering  skill,  and 
the  masonry  of  the  numerous  locks  is  generally  admired  for  its 
finish  and  solidity.  Eight  of  these  locks  rise  one  above  another 
directly  in  the  center  of  the  aiij,  the  canal  being  crossed  by  a 
handsome  stone  bridge  just  above  them.  The  canal,  in  fact, 
divides  the  city  into  two  parts,  the  Upper  and  Lower.  A  large 
part  of  the  Upper  Town  is  comprised  in  what  is  called  the  Bar- 
rack Hill,  on  which  is  a  small  barracks  for  troops,  and  some 
storehouses,  the  property  of  the  Imperial  Government ;  there 


194,  OTTAWA    RIVER, 

is  here  a  paradt -ground  of  several  acres,  and  the  summit  of 
the  hill,  from  which  is  to  be  seen  the  beautiful  view  which  we 
Bpoke  of  before,  is  one  of  the  finest  promenades  in  the  world 
A  few  very  simple  fortifications  on  this  hill  would  make  the 
city  of  Ottawa  almost  as  impregnable  as  Quebec. 

*♦  Within  the  last  few  years  a  sAall  hamlet  has  sprung  up 
near  the  Suspension  Bridge,  in  consequence  of  the  abundant 
water-power  existing  there,  of  which  several  enterprising  per- 
sons have  availed  themselves  to  erect  saw  mills.  There  is  also 
here  a  very  large  iron  foundry  and  machine  manufactory. 

*'  Here  also  are  the  slides,  erected  by  government,  for  the 
passage  of  timber,  in  order  to  avoid  the  great  fall,  over  which 
the  pieces  of  timber  used  to  be  precipitated  singly,  to  be  again 
collected  below  at  a  great  trouble  and  loss.  Throughout  the 
whole  summer,  from  morning  to  night,  the  *  cribs'  of  timber, 
each  manned  by  three  or  four  hardy  raftsmen,  may  be  seen 
darting  down  these  slides ;  while  from  the  lofty  summit  of  the 
Barrack  Mill  the  huge  rafts,  gay  with  briglit  streamers  floating 
from  their  many  masts,  may  be  seen  on  the  smooth,  dark  bosom 
of  the  river,  the  golden-colored  timber  flashing  in  the  sun- 
beams. 

*'  In  the  Lower  Town  are  the  principal  mercantile  establish- 
ments, the  court-house  and  jail,  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral, 
the  Bishop's  Palace ;  a  nunnery,  to  which  the  General  Hospital 
is  attached,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  college ;  the  I'rotestant  hos- 
pital, the  Terminus  of  the  Prescott  and  Ottawa  Railway,  and 
the  steamboat  wharf.  Among  the  objects  well  v/orth  seeing  in 
this  part  of  the  town  is  a  steam  saw-mill,  of  great  size,  recently 
erected  by  an  enterprising  citizen.  In  Central  Ottawa  are  the 
town-hall,  the  post-office,  telegraph  office  and  news-room,  to 
which  are  attached  a  library  and  museum,  the  latter  contain- 
ing some  very  interesting  geological  specimens.  In  Upper  Ot- 
tawa are  the  Episcopal  church  and  the  office  at  which  all  the 
business  connected  Avith  timber  cut  on  the  lands  of  the  Crown 
is  transacted.  The  banks  of  Upper  Canada,  British  North 
America,  Montreal,  and  Quebec  have  agencies  in  the  city. 

"  During  the  summer  months  steamers  run  dally  on  the  river 
between  Ottawa  and  Montreal,  and  between  Ottawa  and  Kings- 
ton, by  the  way  of  Rideau  Canal.  A  railway  train  leaves  the 
city  every  day  for  Prescott,  where  those  passengers  who  intend 
to  go  to  Montreal  change  into  the  cars  of  the  Crand  Trunk  line, 
and  so  reach  Montreal  by  railway. 

"  Travelers  who  wish  to  proceed  farther  up  the  river  can  take 
a  carriage  or  omnibus  for  Aylmer,  a  pretty  village  about  nine 
miles  from  Ottawa,  between  which  place  and  Aylmer  there  is 
an  excellent  turnpike  road,  where  they  will  lind  a  steamer 
which  takes  them  to  the  Chatts ;  from  this  there  is  a  railway. 


OTTAWA    RIVER.  195 

•bout  two  railcs ;  they  then  proceed  by  anotlior  stcntner  to 
Portajije  du  Fort ;  here  wagons  are  used  for  a  short  distance, 
and  anotlier  steamer  takes  them  to  Pembroke,  and  again  an- 
other from  tliat  point  to  Doux  Joachim,  Avhero  for  the  present 
navigation  ceases  for  any  thing  larger  than  a  canoe  A  rail- 
road is  under  construction,  extending  i'rom  Pembroke  to  Brock- 
ville,  situated  on  the  St.  Lawreiwe  Kiver. 

"  Immediately  below  the  city  of  Ottawa  the  river  Rideau  dis- 
charges into  the  Ottawa,  falling  gently  over  the  edge  of  a  lime- 
stone precipice  like  a  beautifully  transparent  '  ciiitdin'  of 
water,  from  which  resemblaace  its  name  has  been  derived  ;  the 
fall  is  divided  into  two  portions  by  a  small  rocky  island,  which 
adds  greatly  to  the  picturesc.ueness  of  the  scene.  The  llideau 
Falls  are  best  seen  from  a  boai. 

"  A  mile  lower  it  receives  from  the  north  its  greatest  tribu- 
tary, the  Gat'ma^,  which,  with  a  course  probably  of  four  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles,  drains  an  area  of  twelve  thousand  square 
miles.  For  about  two  hundred  miles  the  upper  course  of  this 
river  is  in  the  unknown  northern  country.  At  the  farthest 
point  surveyed,  two  hundred  and  seventeen  miles  from  its 
mouth,  the  Gatineau  is  still  a  noble  stream,  a  thousand  feet 
wide,  diminished  in  depth,  but  not  in  width. 

"  Eighteen  miles  lower  down  the  Riviere  au  Liovre  enters 
from  the  north,  after  running  a  course  of  two  hundred  and 
sixty  miles  in  length,  and  draining  an  area  of  four  thousand 
one  hundred  miles.  Fifteen  miles  below  it  the  Ottawa  receives 
the  North  and  South  Niition  rivers  on  either  side,  the  former 
ninety-five  and  the  latter  a  hundred  miles  in  length.  Twenty- 
two  miles  farther  the  river  Rouge,  ninety  miles  long,  enters 
from  the  north.  Twenty-one  miles  lower  the  Riviere  du  Nord, 
a  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  length,  comes  in  on  the  same  side, 
and  lastly,  just  above  its  mouth,  it  receives  the  river  Assump- 
tion, which  lias  a  course  of  a  hundred  and  thirty  miles. 

"  From  Ottawa  the  river  is  navigable  to  Grenville,  a  distance 
of  fifty-eight  miles,  where  the  rapids  that  occur  for  twelve  miles 
are  avoided  by  a  succc:?sion  of  canals.  Twenty-three  miles 
lower,  at  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Ottawa,  a  single  lock,  to 
avoid  a  slight  rapid  (St.  Anne's  Rapid),  gives  a  passage  into 
Lake  St.  Louis,  an  expansion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  above  Montreal. 

"  The  reraiiining  half  of  the  Ottawa's  waters  find  their  way 
to  the  St.  Lawrence,  by  passing  in  two  channels  behind  the 
Island  of  Montreal  and  the  Isle  Jesus,  in  a  course  of  thirty- 
one  miles.  They  are  interrupted  with  rapids,  still  it  is  by  one 
of  them  that  all  the  Ottawa  lumber  passes  to  market.  At 
Bout  de  I'Isle,  therefore,  the  Ottawa  is  finally  merged  in  the 
St.  Lawrence,  a  hundred  and  thirty  miles  below  from  the  city 
of  Ottawa. 


196  OTTAWA    RIVKR. 

•'  The  mast  >rominont  cliaractorlstic  of  tho  Otiuwa  ia  its 
gi'oat  volumi^.  I'.vcn  above  the  town,  whcvo  it  has  to  receive 
tril)iitarii!:i  equal  o  the  IIii  iHon,  the  Shannon,  the  Thamos.  the 
Tweed,  tlic  Kpc^',  and  tho  'Jlyde,  it  disphiys,  when  unconfined, 
a  width  of  half  a  mile  of  strong,  boiling  rapid ;  and  when  aft 
the  liitrlie.st,  while  tho  north  watcrj  are  passing,  the  volume, 
by  cali.'ulated  approximation,  is  fully  equal  to  that  passing 
Niagara— tliat  is,  double  the  common  volume  of  tho  Ganges. 

"  Taking  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Ottawa,  we 
Bee  spread  out  before  us  a  country  equal  to  eight  times  the  State 
of  Vermont,  or  ten  times  that  of  Massachusetts,  with  its  great 
artery,  tlie  Ottawa,  curving  through  it,  resembling  tho  Khioe 
in  length  of  course,  and  tho  Danube  in  magnitude, 

"  This  immense  region  overlies  a  variety  of  geological  form- 
ations, and  presents  all  their  characteristic  features,  from  tho 
level  uniform  surface  of  the  Silurian  system,  which  prevails 
along  ii  great  extent  of  the  Ottawa,  to  the  rugged  and  roman- 
tic ridges  In  tho  metamorphic  and  primitive  formations,  which 
Btretch  far  away  to  tho  north  and  the  northwest. 

"  As  far  as  our  knov/lodgc  of  the  country  extends,  we  find 
the  greater  part  of  it  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  rod 
and  wliite  pine  timber,  making  the  most  valuable  forests  in  the 
world,  abundantly  intersected  with  large  rivers,  fitted  to  con- 
vey the  timber  to  market  Avlien  manufactured. 

"The  remaining  portion  of  it,  if  not  so  valuably  wooded, 
presents  a  very  extensive  and  advantageous  field  for  settlement. 
Apart  from  the  numerous  townships  already  surveyed  and  partly 
settled,  and  tho  large  tracts  of  good  land  interspersed  through- 
v>ut  the  timber  country,  the  great  region  on  tlie  upper  course 
of  the  western  tributaries  of  the  Ottawa,  behind  the  red  pine 
country,  exceeds  the  State  of  New  Hampshire  in  extent,  with 
an  equal  climate  and  superior  soil.  It  is  generally  a  beautiful 
undulating  counti*y,  wooded  with  a  rich  growth  of  maple,  beech, 
biroh,  elm,  etc.,  and  watered  with  lakes  and  streams  affording 
numerous  mill-sites  and  abounding  in  fish.  Flanking  on  the 
one  side  the  lumbering  country,  which  presents  an  excellent 
market  for  produce,  and  adjoining  Lake  Huron  on  the  other, 
the  situation,  though  comparatively  inland,  is  highly  ad/an- 
tageous.  In  the  diversity  of  resources,  the  Ottawa  country 
above  described  presents  unusual  attractions  alike  to  agricul- 
tural and  commercial  enterprise." 


LAKE  GEOPtGE,  OR  IIORICON. 


Tms  romantic  sheet  of  water,  whose  beauties  are  almost  in- 
describable, lies  mostly  in  the  county  of  Warren,  N.  Y.,  27 
miles  north  of  Saratoga  Springs.     It  is  justly  celebrated  for  its 
varied  and  beautiful  scenery,  and  for  the  transparency  and 
purity  of  its  waters.     It  is  30  miles  long,  north  and  south,  and 
from  two  to  three  miles  wide ;  and  is  elevated  243  feet  above 
the  tide-water  of  the  Hudson,  although  its  waters  flow  north 
into  Lake  Chaniplain.     It  is  surrounded  by  high  and  pictur- 
esque hills,  sometimes  rising  to  mountain  height,  and  dotted 
with  iumcrous  islands,  said  to  count  as  many  as  there  are  days 
iu  the  year ;  some  are  of  considerable  size,  and  cultivated  ; 
while  others  are  only  a  barren  rock,  rising  majestically  out  of 
the  surrounding  waters.     The  wild  j  ud  romantic  scenery  of  this 
lake  is  nowhere  surpassed.     The  bed  of  the  lake  is  a  handsome 
yellowish  sand,  and  the  water  is  so  pure  and  transparent  as  to 
render  the  bottom  visible  from  80  to  40  feet.    Here  the  delicious 
salmon-trout,  that  weigh  from  five  to  twenty  pounds,  arc  found 
in  great  numbers,  and  of  the  finest  quality.     Silver  t)'out,  brook 
trout,  pike,  pickerel,  perch,  and  several  other  kinds  of  fresh 
water  fish,  are  also  abundant.     Travelers  on  the  tour  from  the 
Springs  to  Canada  should  not  fail  to  visit  Lake  George  ;  by  the 
French  called  Lac  Sacrament,  on  account  of  the  purity  of  its 
waters.     The  steamboat  "  Minnehaha"  runs  through  the  lake, 
from  Caldwell  to  the  landing  near  the  village  of  Ticonderoga, 
whence  stages  run  to  Fort  Ticonderoga,  at  the  steamboat  land- 
ing on  Lake  Charaplain ;  where  steam  passage  boats,  on  their 
route  from  Whitehall  to  Burlington  and  Rouse's  Point,  touch 
daily  during  the  season  of  navigation.     This  route  is  varied  in 
scenery,  and  deeply  interesting  in  historical  incidents. 

The  romantic  village  of  Caldw^kll,  lying  at  the  south  end 
of  the  lake>  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  two  chui'ches,  and 


108  LAKE    OEORGEj    OR    HORICON, 

a  number  of  handsome  private  residences,  besides  Fort  William 
Htnry  Ilolf/  and  the  Lake  House,  two  popular  public  housos, 
which  arc  usually  thronged  with  fashionable  visitors  during  the 
summer  mouths. 

**  Lake  George  abounds  with  small  and  beautiful  islands, 
among  the  most  important  of  which  are  Diamond  I.sl.ind,  Tea 
Island,  and  Long  lyland.  lloger's  lloclv  or  Slide,  and  Anthony  "a 
Nose,  the  former  on  the  we.st  and  the  latter  on  the  east  side,  are 
two  precipices  worthy  of  note.  Howe's  Landing,  just  behind  an 
island  at  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  denotes  the  spot  when;  the  un- 
fortunate expedition  of  Abercrombie  landed,  and  derives  ita 
name  from  Lord  Howe,  who  accompanied  and  fell  in  that  ex- 
pedition, in  1758. 

"  This  lake  and  its  vicinity  has  been  the  scene  of  several  im- 
portant battles.  One  which  has  been  generally  known  as  the 
Ji.ilt/e  of  Litkc  Georiic,  was  fought  at  the  head  of  the  lake  in 
1755,  between  the  French  under  the  Baron  Dieskau,  and  the 
English  under  Sir  \Vm.  Johnson.  Dieskau  attacked  the  English 
in  their  encampment,  but  was  defeated  and  slain.  The  loss  of 
the  English  was  I'M  slain,  and  that  of  the  French  about  700.' 

"  The  most  shocking  transaction  in  the  vicinity  of  this  lake 
was  the  Massacre  at  Fort  William  Henry  in  1757.  A  British 
and  Provincial  army  having  been  collected  at  Fort  E  lw;ird  and 
Fort  William  Henry  under  Gen.  Webb,  for  the  reduction  of  the 
French  worlcs  on  Lake  Champlain,  the  French  sent  a  large  army 
up  the  lake  under  Gen.  Montcalm,  for  their  delenso.  (Jen. 
Webb,  tiion  at  Fort  William  Henry,  learning  from  Maj.  Putnam 
that  til's  force  had  entered  Lake  George,  returned  immediately 
to  Fort  Edward,  and  the  day  following  sent  Col  iMuurue,  wiih 
his  regiment,  to  reinforce  the  garrison  at  the  lake.  The  day 
after  Monroes  arrival  the  French  appeared  at  tiie  lort,  laid 
siege  to  it,  and  demanded  its  surrender.  The  garrison,  con- 
sisting of  2,500  men,  defended  themselves  with  nmch  bravery 
for  several  days,  with  the  expectation  of  succor  from  Fort  Ed- 
ward. But  as  none  came,  Monroe  was  obliged  on  the  Otii  of 
August  to  capitulate.  By  the  articles  of  capitulation,  all  the 
public  property  was  to  be  delivered  to  Montcalm,  and  the  gar- 
rison were  to  march  out  with  their  arms  and  baggage,  and  to 
be  escorted  to  Fort  Edward,  on  condition  of  not  serving  agamst 
tiio  French  vrithin  the  period  of  eighteen  mouths. 

"  The  garrison  had  no  sooner  marched  out  of  the  fort  than  a 
scene  of  pertidy  and  barbarity  commenced,  which  it  is  impos- 
sible lor  language  to  describe.  Regardless  of  the  articles  of 
capitulation,  the  Indians  attached  to  the  French  army  fell  upon 


*  See  Tiiomj  sou's  Vermont,  Part  II.,  page  8. 


LAKE    QEOUGE,    OR    IIORICON.  190 

the  def<»nsclcss  soMicrs,  plundoring  and  mnrdering  all  that  fell 
in  thoir  way.  Tho  French  otlicois  w*.M'e  idle  spectators  of  this 
bloody  sceuo ;  nor  couM  all  tho  entreaties  of  Monroe  persuade 
them  to  furni.sli  tlic  promised  escort.  On  that  fatal  day  about 
1,500  of  the  English  were  either  murdered  by  the  savages  or 
carried  by  them  into  captivity  never  to  return. 

*'  Tlio  day  following  these  horrid  transactions,  Major  Putnam 
was  dispatched  from  Fort  Edward  with  his  rangers  to  watch 
the  motions  of  the  enemy.  He  reached  Lake  (Jleorge  just  after 
tlie  rear  of  the  en^'my  had  left  tho  shore,  and  the  scene  which 
was  presented  he  describes  as  awful  indeed.  '  The  fort  was 
entirely  destroyed ;  the  barracks,  out-houses,  and  buildings 
were  a  heap  of  ruins— the  cannon,  stores,  boats,  and  vessels 
were  all  carried  away.  The  fires  were  still  burning— tho  smoke 
and  stench  otfonsivo  and  suffocating  Innumerable  fragments 
of  human  skulls,  and  bones  and  carcasses  half  consumed,  were 
still  frying  and  broiling  in  the  decaying  fires.  Dead  bodies 
mangled  with  scalping-knives  and  tomahawks,  in  all  the  wan- 
tonness of  Indian  barbarity,  were  everywhere  to  be  seen.  More 
than  100  women,  butchered  and  shockingly  mangled,  lay  upon 
the  ground  still  weltering  in  their  gore.  Devastation,  barbar- 
ity, and  horror  everywhere  appeared ;  and  tho  spectacle  pre- 
sented was  too  diabolical  and  awful  either  to  be  endured  op 
described.' " 


STEAMER   ON   LAKE   GEORGE. 

A  NEW  steamboat  is  being  built  on  Lake  George  in  the  place 
of  the  John  Jay,  burned  in  July  last.  She  is  145  feet  long 
and  20  feet  wide.  The  boiler  and  furnace  are  placed  in  com- 
partments, incased  in  iron,  entirely  fire-proof,  no  expense  being 
spared  in  order  to  make  her  a  beautiful  and  safe  passenger  boat. 

Her  name,  "  Minne-ha-ha,"  a  romantic  one,  is  selected 
with  great  appropriateness  from  Longfellow's  Hiawatha  • 

"  With  him  dwelt  his  dark-eyed  daughter, 
Wayward  as  the  Minnehaha; 
With  hor  moods  of  shade  and  sunshine, 
Eyes  that  frowned  and  smiled  alternate, 
Feet  as  rapid  as  tho  river, 
Tresses  flowing  like  the  water, 
•  And  as  musical  a  laughter ; 

And  he  named  her  from  the  river, 
From  the  waterfall  he  named  her 
Mlune-ha-ha — laughing  water," 


200  VALL8    OF    TICONDEROGA. 

Tho  Falls  of  Ticonderooa,  situatod  on  the  outlet  of  Lake 
Georgo,  are  well  worthy  tho  attention  of  tourists.  Hero  are 
two  imiwrtiint  cuscadea  within  the  distance  of  two  or  three 
miles,  surrounded  by  mountain  scenery  of  gri3at  historic  in- 
terest. Tho  Upper  Fa/Is,  near  the  village  of  Alexandria,  are 
^''ormod  by  a  succession  of  descents  of  upward  of  200  feet  within 
the  distance  of  a  mile,  affording  water-power  unsurpassed  by 
any  other  locality  in  tho  State  for  safety  and  a  steady  How  of 
water,  the  stream  not  being  subject  to  freshets.  Tho  Lower 
FfJl,  in  the  village  of  Ticonderoga,  has  a  perpendicular  fall  of 
80  feet,  boing  much  used  for  hydraulic  purposes.  Tho  ruins 
of  old  Fort  Ticondiro^a,  two  miles  below  this  place,  are  situ- 
ated on  a  point  of  land  at  the  entrance  of  tho  outlet  of  Lake 
George  into  Lake  Cliamplain,  standing  on  an  eminence  of  about 
60  foet,  overlooking  tho  lake ;  the  ruins  are  plainly  visible  from 
the  water,  presenting  a  conspicuous  o.nd  interesting  object. 
About  1,800  yards  southwest  stands  Mount  Defiance^  rising 
750  feet  above  tho  lake,  overlooking  and  commanding  tho  site 
of  Fort  Ticonderoga.  A  public  house,  for  tho  accommodation 
of  visitors,  stands  near  the  steamboat  landing. 


DISTANCES   FROM  CALDWELL  TO    ALBANY,  via  SARATOGA 

SPRINGS. 

CALDWELL 0  0  ALBANY 0  0 

Glenn  s  Falls,  .S/a^e. .  9  9  Troy 6  6 

Moreau  Station  *'      ..6  14  Cohoes 3  9 

Sar  a  toga  Si'RiisrGs. .  15  29  Waterford 1  10 

Ballston  Spa 7  3(3  Junction  Albany  R.R.  2  12 

Mechanicsville 13  49  Mechanicsville 6  18 

Junction  Albany  R.R.  6  55  Ballston  Spa 13  31 

Waterford 2  67  Saratoga  Springs.  .  7  32 

Cohoes 1  58  Moreau  Station 15  53 

Troy 3  61  Glenn's  Falls,  Stage. .'  6  58 

ALBANY 6  67  CALDWELL     "      ..9  67 


LAKE    CIIAMPLAIN. 


One  of  tho  most  interesting  and  lovely  bodies  of  water  in 
North  America  lies  between  the  States  of  Now  York  and  Ver- 
mont, through  which  runs  the  boundary  line  from  near  White- 
hall to  lat.  45^,  being  a  distance  of  110  miles;  it  may  bo  said 
to  extend  four  miles  farther,  into  Canada,  m.ikiug  tho  whole 
length  of  the  lake  1 20  miles .  irying  from  half  a  mile  or  less 
to  twelve  miles  in  width.  Its  direction  is  nearly  north  and 
Bouth,  and  it  is  a  long,  narrow,  and  doop  body  of  water,  dotted 
with  a  number  of  islands,  the  largest  of  which  belong  to  Ver- 
mont. From  Whitehall  to  Crown  Point  the  lake  is  quite  nar- 
row, but  here  it  begins  to  expand,  and  soon  becomes  three 
miles  wide,  still  increasing  northward  until  near  Burlington, 
where  it  spreads  to  its  greatest  width.  Afissisqiwi  Bay^  an 
extension  of  Lake  Champlain  on  the  northeast,  lies  mostly  in 
Canada,  above  the  45th  degree  of  north  latitude.  Steamboats 
of  the  first  class,  and  sloops  of  from  50  to  100  tons  burden, 
navigate  Lake  Champlain  its  whole  length,  thence  down  the 
Sorelle,  or  Richelieu  River,  its  outlet,  to  St.  John's,  Canada, 
where  steamboat  navigation  ceases ;  a  total  distance  of  about 
140  miles.  This  lake  is  also  connected  with  the  navigable 
waters  of  the  Hudson,  by  means  of  the  Champlain  Canal,  which 
extends  south,  a  distance  of  GH  miles.  As  you  approach  near 
the  center  of  Lake  Champlain,  a  large  body  of  water  presents 
itself  to  view,  bordered  by  scenery  of  the  most  picturesque 
description ;  the  headlands  which  are  seen  to  groat  advantage, 
and  the  vast  ranges  of  mountains  on  either  side,  are  truly  grand 
and  romantic.  The  highest  peak  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
called  the  '*  Camel^s  Hump,**  is  seen  on  the  east,  while  the 
high  ranges  of  the  mountains  of  Essex  County  are  seen  on  tlie 
west.     This  latter  range  of  mountain  peaks,  ihe  Adirondack 


202  LAKE    CHAMPLAIN. 

group,  contains  the  highest  land  in  the  State  of  New  York, 
rising  in  some  places  to  the  heiglit  of  5,000  feet  and  upward, 
abounding  with  iron  o^e  and  timber  of  large  growth.  In  the 
streams  which  flow  into  this  lake  are  frequent  waterfalls  of 
great  beauty ;  and  the  fine  headlands,  with  numerous  indenta- 
tions and  bays  of  singular  beauty,  only  need  to  be  seen  to  be 
admired.  Its  waters  are  well  stored  with  salmon,  salmon  trout, 
sturgeon,  piclsorel,  and  other  fish. 

*'  Lake  Champlain  was  discovered  by  Samuel  Champlain  in 
July,  1C<>9,  having  founded  the  colony  of  Quebec  in  ltj08;  in 
June,  1809,  he,  with  a  number  of  French  and  Indians,  pro- 
ceeded in  a  sliallop  up  the  St.  Lawrence  and  river  Iroquois, 
now  Richelieu,  till  stopped  by  the  Chambly  Rapids.  From  this 
plice  he  determined  to  proceed  in  Indian  canoes,  but  the 
Frenclimcn  luunifested  great  reluctance,  and  only  two  would 
be  persuaded  to  accompany  him.  With  these  and  about  sixty 
of  the  natives,  having  transported  their  canoes  by  the  rapids  on 
the  2(1  of  July,  and,  proceeding  southward,  on  the  4th  of  July 
he  entered  the  lake 

"  Champlain  and  his  party  proceeded  along  the  west  shore, 
advancing  by  water  during  the  night  and  retiring  into  the 
forests  by  day,  to  avoid  being  discovered  by  the  Iroquois,  be- 
tween whom  and  the  Canada  Indians  a  war  was  then  carried  on. 
As  they  drew  near  the  enemy's  country  they  proceeded  with 
great  caution,  but  on  the  29th  of  July,  in  the  evening,  they 
fell  in  with  a  large  war  party  of  the  Ii'oquois.  Both  parties 
drew  up  to  the  shore,  and  the  night  was  spent  in  preparation 
for  battle,  and  in  singing  and  taunting  each  other.  In  the 
morning  an  engagement  took  place,  but  the  Frenchraen  being 
arn)ed  with  muskets,  it  was  decided  in  favor  of  Champlain  and 
his  party,  a  large  number  of  the  Iroquois  being  slain  and  seve- 
ral taken  prisoners.  With  these  they  returned  immediately 
to  their  sliallop.  Champlain  says  that  this  battle  was  fought 
in  lat.  48°  and  some  minutes,  and  the  place  is  supposed  to 
have  been  on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  George.  The  present 
name  of  Lake  ("Ihamplain  was  given  by  its  discoverer  during  hia 
first  visit,  as  he  informs  us  in  his  journal.  He  was  not 
drowned  in  its  waters,  as  has  been  sometimes  said,  but  died  at 
Quebec  in  1085.  One  of  the  Indian  names  of  this  lake  was 
Petawa-Bouque,  signifying  alternate  land  and  water,  in  allu- 
sion to  the  numerous  islands  and  projecting  points  of  land. 
Another  is  said  to  have  been  Caniaderi-Guarunte,  signifying 
the  mouth  or  door  of  the  country.  If  so,  it  was  very  appropi'iate, 
as  it  forms  the  gate- way  between  the  country  on  the  St.  Law- 


LAKE    CHAMPLAIN.  203 

rence  and  th.at  on  the  Tludson.  In  more  recent  times  the  In- 
diana called  it  Corlear,  in  honor  of  a  Dutchman  who  saved  a 
war  party  of  Canada  Indians  from  being  destroyed  by  the  Mo- 
hawks in  1<)05. 

"  The  first  steamboat  built  on  this  lake  commenced  running 
in  1809.  The  line  boats  have  always  been  favorably  known 
to  travelers  either  for  business  or  pleasure,  for  the  manner  in 
which  they  have  been  managed — their  neat  and  orderly  ap- 
pearance—obliging and  attentive  officers  and  efficient  crews. 
At  present  there  are  daily  lines  to  and  from  Whitehall  and 
Rouse's  Pont,  stopping  at  Ticonderoga,  Burlington,  Plattsburgh, 
and  intsrmL'diate  places,  connecting  with  the  various  railroads 
— also  numerfius  ferry  boats,  propellers,  and  tow  boats,  besidoa 
more  than  nOll  sloops,  canal  boats,  barges,  etc." 

Chanip/ain  Canal  connects  the  waters  of  the  Hudson  with 
Lake  Chumplain.  It  is  G4  miles  long,  40  feet  wide  at  the  top  and 
28  at  the  bottom,  with  a  navigable /e^t/er  at  Sandy  Hill  11  miles 
long.  It  has  21  locks,  14  by  90  feet.  Rise  from  the  Hudson, 
134  feet,  fall  to  the  lake,  54;  was  begun  in  1810,  finished  in 
1819,  and  cost  SI  ,079,872.  The  route  of  this  canal  is  interest- 
ing on  account  of  its  passing  through  a  section  of  country  ren- 
dered memorable  by  important  military  operations.  It  passes 
in  part  along  the  line  of  Burgoyne's  advance  from  Lake  Cham- 
plain  —near  the  scene  of  his  principal  battles — and  of  his  final 
surrender.  It  passes  near  Fort  Miller — Fort  Edward — the 
spot  where  Miss  M'Ciea  was  murdered — Fort  Anne — the  tree  to 
which  Gen.  Putnam  was  bound  in  1757,  etc. 


Height  of  the  Principal  Moun-  Altitude  of  the  Principal  Mottn* 

TAIN  Peaks  iv  Vekmont— Green  tains   Northern    New  York— 

Mootain  IIanoe.  Adirondack  Group. 

Nwr.                         A'lUiulr' above  S3H.  Namk.                          Altitude  abovp  Sett 

Chin,  or  North  Peak,  Mans-  Mount  Marcy,     f               15,467  ft 

field  Moil  111  air;    4,279  ft  Mount    Mcln-       Essex    | 

Camel's  Hump,  Huntington  4,183  "         tire f  V  5,183  '♦ 

Shrew9l)ui-v  Mountain.  . . .  4,U86  "  Mount McMar-  |  County. 

Nose,  or  Sou!  Ii  Pouk,  Mans-  tin       I      ^        J  5,000  " 

field  Mountain 8,9S8  "  Dial  Mountain                       4,900  '• 

Killington  Peak.  Sherburne  3,924  "  Whiteface  Mt.                        4,855  " 

Equinox    Mountain,    Man-  Mount  Seward.Franklin  Co.  4,600  " 

Chester 3,706  "  Mount  Lyon,  Clinton  Co.  , .  4,000  " 

Aucutney  Mt.,  Windsor. . . .  8,320  ♦' 

Surface  of  Lake  Champlain,  above  tide 90  feet. 

"        Lake  George  "       "    243   ' 

«        LakeCwi'abio  *       "    234  ** 


204  LIST    OF    STEAMERS,    fiTC. 


LtST  OF  STEAMERS  ETTILT  AND  PJTNNING  ON  LAKE  OHAll 

PLAIN  SIXCE  1801). 

Rnl'f         NniTifi  'r.'ii-;.      Wli"  <■  iniilf.  Remarks, 

1809..  Vermont* 1(57.  .Burlinorton,  Vt— sunk  Oct.,  1S15. 

18l5..PJuciiix(l8t) 886.. VersL'iiuoa,  Vt.— burnt  Sept.,  1819. 

lSI7..Ch!iini)liiia 12S. .  Vir^conncs,  Vt.— burnt  lsi7. 

lS19..Con!;r(>s3 2I19. .  Vorirenm'.s,  Vt.— broken  up. 

1820  .  PhdMiix  (2fl) 84f). .  Vi>rsr<'iiti('s,  Vt.    broken  up. 

1825.  .Gen.  Greene l'<6.  .Buriin'jCton,  Vt.— broken  up. 

1827.. Franklin    312.  .St.  Albans.  Vt.—bioken  up. 

"    ..Wiirthinijton 134. .Essex,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 

1S2S. . M'Donouijh 183  . St.  Albany  AM. -lost  1841. 

18>i2 . .  Win  >osk i 159 . .  Burlinirton,  Vt.— broken  up. 

"    .  .AVater- Witch 107    Fort  Cas.sin.  Vt.— chanijed  to  BChoonef 

1837.  .Buriinstton 482.  .Sliell)urii(%  Vt.— broken  up. 

1833..\Vbiteliall 461 .  .Whitehall,  N.  Y.    broken  up. 

184J..Saranac ,.  8^51.  .Shelburne,  Vt. — broken  up. 

"    ..Bouquet 81     Essex,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 

184,5.. Francis  Sallus 873. .  Whitoliall,  N.  Y. 

1847.  .United  States 56G.  .Siiciburne,  Vt. 

"    ..Ethan  Allejx.  ...*... .  5'i0    Shelburne,  Vt. 

1851. .Boston 219.  Slielburn^-.  Vt. 

1852.. America 081  ..Whitehall,  N.  Y. 

1S53. .Canada 718.  .Whitehall,  N.  Y. 

1850.  Montreal    416.  .Slielburue,  Vt. 

"      . Oliver  Bascora 860 . .  Whitehall,  N.  Y. 


STEAMERS  BUILT  ON  LAKE  GEORGE. 

BuUt.  Kmiic.  W'Afiv.  l.uilt.  Ki'iii:uk8. 

1817.. Caldwell,  (Ist) Tioonderoga  -burnt  1821. 

1824.. Mountaineer Caldwell-  eoiidenuied  1837. 

1838  . Cald  well,  (2d) Ticonderoga -broken  up. 

ls.52 . .  John  Jay burnt,  July,  1856 

1857 . .  Min-iie-ha-ha Caldwell. 


AMERICAN  STEAMERS  RUNNING  ON  L.\KE  CHAMPLAIN,JS64. 

(day  and  night  link.) 

Namd.  Tons.  From  and  To. 

America,  Capt.  H.  Mayo..  (581  Whitoliall  to  Burlington  and 

Kouse's  Point. 
Canada,  Capt»  Wm.  Flagg  718 

Ukitkd     Siates,     Capt.  I     .n^^  ^  n  ^^ 

Wm.  Anderson .  .  j    ' 

MoNTOEAii, Mayo. ...   41 G  Bnrlinsjfton  to  Plattsbiirgh. 

Boston,  Capt.  Chapin 219  Burlington  to  Rouse's  Point. 


♦  Built  and  run  by  Capt.  John  Winaiii.     Fare  $7  ft'om  Whitehall  to 
Bt.  John's,  Cuu. 


BTEAMBOAT    AND    RAU.ROAD    ROUTES. 


205 


FRKICHT    BOATS. 


Kthan  Allen,    Capt.  Wr'jvlit.  500     Wliiteliall  to  St.  John's  Can. 
Oliver  l^ii'U'om,    "    EMri'l,':^'},  8  iO  '* 

James  II   Hooker,  Propeller  " 


(( 


STEAMBOAT  AND   RAILROAD  ROUTE  FROM  WHITE 
TO  BURLINGTON,   ROUSE'S  POINT,  AND  MONTRE 


Landings,  etc. 

Whitkh  \ll,  N.  Y. 

B.-nson,  Vt 

Orwell,    "    


Ticondero";!!,  N.  Y. 


Larnbee's  Point,  Vt. . . 
Crown  Point,  N.  V. .  . 
Port  ITenry,       "    . . , 
Wcstport,  ''     .., 

Eiwex,  " 

l^uiii.iNnTON-,  Vt 14-76 

Port  Kent,  N.  Y 10-86 

Plattsbur-^h,  «'    15-101 

Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y.  .   25-1 '26 


Miles. 

0 
IP, 

7-20 
4-24 
1-25 
8-83 
8-41 
9-50 
12-62 


Stations,  etc. 

Montreal,  Can.  .  . 
St.  John's,         *'    .  . 
House's  Point,  N.  Y 
Plattsburgh,         " 
Port  Kent, 

Bu  HUNG  ION,  Vt. 

Essex,  N.  Y 

Weslport,  "    

Port  Henry,  N.  Y.. 
Crown  I'oint,     "    . 
Laraboo's  Point,  Vt 
Ticonderofva,  N.  Y. 

Orwell,  Vt 

Benson,   " 


Bt.  Johns,  Can 28-149 

MoNTftKAL,  "    21-170     Whitkhali.,  N.  Y. 

Usual  Time  from  Whitehall  to  Rouse's  Point,  9  hours. 

Fare 

*'         *'         "    Rouse's  Point  to  Montreal,  2  hours. 

Fare 


HALL 
AL. 

Miles. 

0 

21 

28-14 

25-69 

15-84 

10-04 

14-108 

12-120 

9-129 

8-187 

8-145 

1-146 

4-150 

7   .57 

18-170 

$4  00 
2  00 


RAILROAD  ROUTE  FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  ALBANY. 
Stations.  Miles.  Total  Mile*. 

WHITEHALL 0     0 

Fort  Anne 11     11 

Fort  Edward 12     23 

Moreau  Station 1     24 

SARATOC4A  Springs 15     39 

Bnllston  Spa 7     4(j 

Mechanicsville 13     59 

Waterford 8     67 

Troy  4  71 

ALBANY 6     '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.  77 

Usual  Time,  3^  hours.    Fare,  $2  38. 


206  WHITEHALL. 

The  villngo  of  Whitehall,  77  miles  north  of  Albany  by 
tailroad  route,  is  situated  in  a  narrow  valley  at  the  head 
of  Lake  Champlain,  and  at  the  junction  of  the  Champlaiu 
Canal  with  the  lake,  being  a  secure  and  important  naval 
station  in  time  ol  war.  The  village  was  incorporated  in  1820, 
and  now  contains  four  churches,  three  hotels,  a  bank,  30  stores 
of  different  kinds,  several  storehouses,  and  extensive  forwarding 
houses ;  two  ship-yards  and  two  dry  docks,  where  are  built  and 
repaired  steamboats,  lake  craft,  and  canal  boats ;  machine-shops, 
brick-yards,  tanneries,  and  other  manufacturing  establishments 
Population  about  4,000. 

Besides  the  daily  lino  of  steamers  running  from  Whitehall  to 
Burlington,  Plattsburgli,  and  Rouse's  Point  on  the  north,  the 
Sarafo^a  and  WhUchall  Railroad  extends  40  miles  south,  to 
Saratoga  vSprings,  and  a  branch  railroad  extends  east  to  Rut- 
la'  ,  ^'^t.,  connecting  witli  the  Rutland  and  Burlington  Rail- 
road, thus  forming  speedy  facilities  for  reaching  New  York  an4 
Boston  by  railroad  routes. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Whitehall  are  high  and  rugged 
hills,  while  to  tlie  souLlilie.s  tlie  valley  formed  by  Wood  Crcek^ 
heading  near  the  banks  of  the  Hudson.  Through  this  valley, 
during  the  old  French  War  of  1759,  and  the  Revolutionary  War 
of  1770,  the  French,  the  British,  and  the  American  armies 
each  marshaled  their  forces  preparatory  to  attack,  or  on  their 
retreat  This  place  was  formerly  called  Skeenesborough, 
The  Indian  name  was  said  to  be  Kah-sha-quali-na,  or  place 
where  dip  fish.  Here,  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  for  a 
time,  was  the  rendezvous  of  the  American  forces ;  this  point 
and  Lake  George  being  the  only  two  accessible  approaches  from 
Canada,  by  the  invading  foe,  under  Gen.  Burgoyne.  Here,  too, 
during  the  old  French  War,  Gen.  Putnam  distinguished  hira 
self,  both  in  battle  and  in  an  adroit  escape  from  Indian  foes,  hav- 
ing, it  is  said,  plunged  into  the  lake  about  one  mile  north  of 
Skeenesborough,  and  swam  his  horse  to  the  opposite  shore,  thus 
eluding  their  pursuit.  Peaceful  pursuits  and  pleasure  now 
render  this  place  a  great  thoroughfare 


imp  FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  BUELIXGTON  AXD 

ROUSE'S  POINT. 


This  excursion,  during  the  summer  months,  is  tlie  most  grand 
and  interesting  of  any  of  simihir  extent  in  North  America — 
passing  through  a  romantic  Like,  with  high  mountains  in  the 
distance,  and  past  scenes  rendered  chissic  by  their  associations 
with  events  that  occurred  during  the  old  French  and  Revolu- 
tionary wars. 

On  leaving  the  new  steamboat  wharf,  about  one  mile  north  of 
Whitehall,  an  interest  is  at  once  excited  in  the  breast  of  all 
intelligent  travelers.  The  hills  rise  abruptly  to  the  height  of 
several  hundred  feet,  while  the  lake  or  outlet  of  Wood  Creek  is 
hemmed  in  for  several  miles  by  rocky  cliffs.  The  ElhoWy  the 
Aarrows,  the  Fu/pit,  and  other  names,  arc  g'van  to  the  most 
interesting  points. 

Bknson,  13  miles  below  Whitehall,  is  the  first  steamboat 
landing.  Here  the  waters  begin  to  widen  to  about  half  a  mile 
in  width. 

Orwell,  seven  miles  farther,  is  another  steamboat  landing. 
Here  the  lake  widens  from  one  to  two  miles. 

TicoNDEROGA,  24  uiilcs  nortli  of  Whitehall,  and  four  miles 
east  of  the  foot  of  Lake  George,  is  a  sacred  and  romantic  spot, 
where  is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing  and  a  good  hotel,  be- 
sides the  celebrated  ruins  of  the  old  Fort. 

Fort  Ticonderoga. — The  ruins  of  this  old  fortification  are 
situated  in  the  town  of  Ticonderoga,  Essex  Co.,  on  tlie  west  side 
of  Lake  Cliamplaiu,  at  the  entrance  of  the  outlet  of  Lake  George, 
24  miles  north  of  Whitehall.  This  place  was  originally  called 
Che-oU'der-o-^a  by  the  Indians,  signifying,  in  their  language, 
noise,  and  applied  to  the  falls  in  the  outlet  of  Lake  George ;  its 
name  was  afterward  slightly  changed  by  the  French  into  ita 


208  WHITEHAL'L    TO    ROUSe's    POINT. 

present  fippcllation,  which  it  has  borno  ever  s-nce  it  was  first 
occupied  and  fortified  by  thorn  in  1756.  Tli ;  Ayrt  ■^va^;  at  first 
nanced  Fort  Carillon,  but  afterward  called  Fort  Ticonderoqa 
by  the  English  and  Americans  This  fortification  cost  the 
French  government  a  large  sum  of  money,  and  was  considered 
very  strong,  both  by  nature  and  art.  It  stands  on  a  point  of 
land  elevated  70  feet  above  Lake  Champlain,  being  surrounded 
on  three  sides  by  water,  and  on  the  northwest  it  was  defended 
by  strong  breastworks.  J^lount  Imlcpendence,  on  the  opposite 
or  east  side  of  the  lake,  was  also  fortified,  and  some  of  the  in- 
trenchiucnts  are  still  visible,  elevated  110  feet  above  the  lake, 
and  overlooking  the  peninsula  of  Ticonderoga.  After  several 
sanguinary  conflicts  in  tliis  vicinity,  and  under  the  very  v/alla 
of  the  fort,  in  which  several  thousand  lives  were  sacrifi<!cd,  tliia 
important  military  position  was  tamely  evacuated  by  the  French 
in  175li,  and  given  up  to  the  British  army  under  Lord  Amherst; 
who  retained  possession  until  it  was  talien  by  surprise  by  Col. 
Ethan  Allen,  of  the  American  army,  in  1775.  He  is  said  to 
have  entered  tlie  fort  througli  a  subterraneous  passage  from  the 
south,  extending  to  the  lake  ;  surprising  the  commandant  in  his 
bed  before  he  Avas  aware  of  his  danger,  and  in  his  cliaracteristio 
way  required  the  officer  to  surrender.  He  asked  to  whom.'' 
**  Why,  to  Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Congress,  to  be  sure,^* 
was  his  laconic  reply.  In  1777,  the  British  army,  under  Gen. 
Buigoyne,  on  their  route  to  Saratoga,  appeared  in  array  before 
Ticonderoga,  when  Gen.  St.  Clair,  the  American  commander, 
was  forced  tc  evacuate ;  the  enemy  having  erected  a  battery  on 
Mount  Defiance,  in  the  rear,  elevated  720  feet  above  the  lake, 
which  overlooked  and  completely  commanded  this  fortification, 
which  was  bsfore  considered  almost  impregnable ;  it  then  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  British  until  the  close  of  the  war 
Since  that  time  it  has  been  suffered  to  go  to  decay,  and  now 
presents  one  of  the  most  interesting  ruins  of  the  kind  in  this 
country,  and  is  annually  visited  by  a  great  number  of  travelerr 
Near  by,  delightfully  situated  on  the  lake  shore,  is  a  well-kepi 
hotel  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors.    Here  steamboats,  dux- 


WIIITKHALL    TD    ROUSe's    POINT.  200 

!ng  the  season  of  navigation,  daily  land  and  receive  pas&engers 
ou  their  route  from  Wliitehall  to  Rouse's  Point. 

The  following  account  of  the  defkat  of  thi:  British  at 
TicoNDEROGA,  IN  1759,  Is  takcn  from  the  ^'Memoirs  of  an 
American  Lady"  written  by  Mrs.  Grant : 

"  The  army,  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Abercrombie,  crossed 
Lake  Georjjje  on  the  5th  of  July,  and  landed  without  opposition. 
Thoy  proceeded  in  four  columns  to  Ticonderoga,  and  displayed 
a  spectacle  unprecedented  in  the  New  World.  An  army  of  six- 
teen thousand  men,  regulars  and  provincial-,  with  a  train  of 
artillery,  and  all  the  necessary  provisions  for  an  active  cam- 
paign or  regular  siege,  followed  by  a  fleet  of  batteuux,  pontons, 
etc.  They  set  out  wrong,  however,  by  not  having  Indian  guides, 
who  are  alone  to  be  depended  on  in  such  a  place.  In  a  short 
time  the  columns  fell  in  upon  each  other,  and  occasioned  much 
confusion.  The  advance  guard  of  the  French,  which  had  re- 
tired before  them,  were  equally  bewildered,  and  fulling  in  with 
each  other  in  this  confusion,  a  skirmish  ensued,  in  wliich  the 
French  lost  above  three  hundred  men,  and  the  English,  though 
successful  in  this  first  rencontre^  lost  as  much  as  it  was  possible 
to  lose,  in  one  man — for  here  it  was  that  the  valiant  Lord  Howe, 
the  second  in  command,  fell  mortally  wounded.  He  was  shot 
from  behind  a  tree,  probably  by  some  Indian ;  and  the  whole 
army  were  inconsolable  for  a  loss  they  too  well  knew  to  be 
irreparable. 

"  The  fort  is  in  a  sit'^^^^'on  of  peculiar  natural  strength;  it 
lies  on  a  little  peninsula,  w.  i  Lake  Champlain  on  one  side,  and 
a  narrow  opening  communicating  with  Lake  George  on  the 
other.  This  garrison,  Avhich  was  well  prepared  for  attack,  and 
almost  impregnable  from  situation,  was  defended  by  between 
four  and  live  thousand  men.  An  engineer  sant  to  reconnoiter 
was  of  opinion  that  it  might  be  attacked  without  waiting  for  the 
artillery.  The  fatal  resolution  was  taken  without  consulting 
those  who  were  best  qualified  to  judge. 

*•  I  can  not  enter  into  the  dreadful  detail  of  what  followed. 
Certainly  never  was  infatuation  equal  to  this.  The  forty -second 
regiment  was  then  in  the  height  of  deserved  reputation,  and 
commanded  by  a  veteran  of  great  experience  and  military  skill. 
Col.  Gordon  Graham,  who  had  the  first  point  of  attack  assigned 
to  him.  He  was  v/ounded  at  the  first  onset,  and  of  the  sur- 
vivors, every  officer  retired  wounded  off  the  field,  Of  the  fifty- 
fifth  regiment,  ten  officers  were  killed,  including  all  the  field 
officers.  No  human  beings  could  show  more  determined  cour- 
age than  this  brave  army  did — standing  four  hours  under  a~ 
constant  discharge  of  cannon  and  musketry  from  barricades,  ou 


210  WniTETIALL    TO    ROUSe's    POINT. 

which  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  make  the  loast  iinprcssioiL 
Gen.  Aborcrombie  saw  the  fruitless  waste  of  blood  that  was 
every  hour  increasing,  and  ordered  a  retreat,  wiiicli  wan  very 
precipitate;  so  much  so,  that  they  crossed  the  lake,  and  re- 
gained their  camp  on  the  other  side,  the  same  night.  Two 
thousand  men  were  killed,  wounded,  or  taken  in  this  disastrous 
engagement ;  which  was,  however,  quickly  succeeded  by  the 
dear-boMo;ht  conquest  of  Quebec,  Avhere  fell  both  the  rival  com- 
manders, WoLKK  and  Montcalm." 

Mount  Defiance,  about  one  mile  southwest  of  Fort  Ticon- 
deroga,  on  the  south  side  of  the  outlet  to  Lake  George,  is  a  bold 
promontory,  elevated  about  800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake 
While  the  ascent  from  the  water  or  eastern  face  is  quite  steep 
and  difficult,  the  approach  from  the  west  is  easy.  It  was  from 
this  quarter  that  Gen.  Burgoyne,  in  1777,  ascended  this  moun- 
tain and  planted  several  pieces  of  artillery — obliging  the  Amer- 
icans to  evacuate  the  fort,  wliich  was  before  considered  almost 
impregnable.  The  top  of  this  eminence  gives  a  grand  view  of 
Lake  Champlain  and  the  surrounding  country,  and  is  well 
worthy  of  a  visit,  which  can  easily  be  accomplished  on  foot. 

The  village  of  Ticonderoga,  two  miles  Avest  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  is  situated  on  the  outlet  of  Lake  George,  where  is  a  thriv- 
ing settlement,  surrounded  by  picturesque  mountain  scenery. 
One  or  two  miles  farther  west,  on  the  road  to  Lake  George,  is 
situated  another  village,  called  Upper  Ticondero^a,  or  Alex- 
andria. Here  is  a  most  beautiful  fall  of  water,  affording  im- 
mense hydraulic  power,  a  small  part  of  which  is  only  used  for 
propelling  machinery.  The  steamboat  landing,  at  the  foot  of 
Lake  George,  is  ^ibout  one  mile  west  of  the  latter  place,  the 
whole  distance  to  Lake  Champlain  being  four  miles.  The  dis- 
tance to  Caldwell,  at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  is  36  miles. 

Larabek's  Point,  Vt.,  two  mile  from  the  landing  at  Fort 
Ticonderoga,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  is  a  regular  steam- 
boat landing.  Here  the  lake  expands  from  one  to  two  miles  in 
width. 

Chimney  Point,  nine  miles  north  of  Ticonderoga,  is  also 
another  landing  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  although  not  now 
frequented  by  the  steamers. 


tVlIlTEHALL    TO    ROU^e's    POINT.  211 

*•  Here  the  French  commenced  their  first  settlement  upon  tlie 
lake  in  1781.  Whi'n  Crown  Point  fell  into  the  luinils  of  tha 
English,  in  17o0.  this  settlement  wns  iibandoned,  and  the  ro- 
miiins  of  the  chimneys,  which  they  had  erected  in  their  huts, 
probably  suggested  to  the  first  English  settlers  tlie  name  of 
Chimncji  Point,  The  stone  mindnii//,  mentioned  by  Kalm  as 
bluing  one  or  two  musket-shots  to  the  east  of  Fort  Frederick,  and 
as  having  five  or  six  small  cannon  mounted  in  it  in  1740,  and 
which  has  been  supposed  to  have  given  name  to  this  point,  waa 
most  probaV)ly  at  the  place  opposite,  marked  by  the  ruins  of 
what  is  called  Grenadier's  Battery'' 

Ckowiv  Point,  1G  miles  north  of  Ticonderoga,  on  the  west 
Bide  of  Lake  Chaniplain,  presents  an  interesting  appearance 
from  the  water.  The  ruins  of  the  old  fortifications  are  situated 
on  a  neck  of  land  running  into  the  lake ;  the  embankments  ars 
visible,  and  indicate  an  immense  amount  of  labor  expended  to 
render  this  point  invulnerable  to  an  approaching  foe,  whether 
by  land  or  water;  yet  it  was  taken  by  surprise  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Revolutionary  struggle. 

♦*  The  French  first  established  themselves  here  in  1731,  and 
erected  a  fort  which  they  called  Fort  St.  Frederick,  from 
Frederick  Mauropas,  the  French  Secretary  of  State.  At  this 
place  the  French  kept  a  garrison,  and  from  it,  during  the 
colonial  wars,  sent  out  their  parties  of  French  and  Indians  to 
destroy  the  frontier  English  settlements  and  massacre  the  in- 
habitants. Whon  Kalm  visited  this  place  in  1749,  there  was 
considerable  settlement  around  the  fort,  with  well- cultivated 
gardens.  Within  the  fort  was  a  neat  little  church,  'i'he  fort 
was  built  upon  the  brow  of  a  steep  bank  of  the  lake,  but  a  short 
distance  from  the  water,  and  the  rr>mains  of  its  bomb-proof 
covered  Wiiy,  ovens,  etc.,  are  still  to  be  seen,  though  in  a  very 
dilapidated  state.  The  small  circle  to  the  southeast  oi  this  de- 
notes the  site  of  Grenadier's  Ijattery,  and  the  two  small  paral- 
lelograms to  the  southwest  of  the  latter  place,  the  situation  of 
two  strong  redoubts. 

"  On  the  approach  of  the  British  army  under  Gen.  Amherst, 
in  1759,  the  French  abandoned  this  fort  and  retired  to  the 
north  end  of  the  lake.  Amherst  took  immediate  possession,  but 
instead  of  repairing  the  old  works,  began  a  new  fort,  which  was 
called  Crown  Point,  about  200  yards  to  the  southwest,  on  higher 
and  more  commanding  ground.  This  Ibrt  was  never  completed, 
as  is  evident  from  an  examination  of  the  ditch,  glacis,  etc.,  at 
the  present  day,  although  it  has  been  said  that  the  British 
goverumeut  expended  here  no  less  than  £2,000,000  sterling 


212  WHITEHALL   TO    ROUSk's    POINT. 

<*  This  fori  was  taken  by  surprise  by  a  party  of  Green  Monn- 
tain  Boys,  under  Seth  Winner,  on  the  same  day  that  Ticondo- 
to'^a.  surrendered  to  Ethan  Allen. 

'•  The  width  of  the  peninsula  upon  which  these  works  stood  is 
one  mile,  and  is  in  no  part  much  elevated  above  the  site  of  the 
principal  tort,  but  there  is  a  considerable  mountain  on  the  west 
side  of  liulwngga  Bay,  the  nearest  summit  of  which  is  only  l| 
mil!'8  from  tiie  fort,  and  elevated  400  feet  above  it.  The  highest 
is  distant  2,|  miles,  and  elevated  900  feet.  The  whole  peninsula 
is  made  up  of  dark  limestone,  covered  in  most  parts  with  only 
a  slight  depth  of  earth,  so  that  works  upon  it  can  not  1)0  a.ssailod 
by  regular  advances.  The  width  between  Crown  Point  and 
Chijnney  Point  is  only  about  half  a  mile.  From  Crown  Point 
to  Split  Hock  the  average  width  of  the  lake  is  about  three  and 
a  half  miles." 

Port  H.:nry,  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  is  situated  on 
Cedar  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  Bulwa^^a  Bay,  which  separates 
Crown  Point  from  the  mainland.  Here  are  the  works  of  tho 
Port  Henry  Iron  Company,  with  iron  ore  of  good  quality  in 
the  vicinity. 

VVestport,  50  miles  north  of  Whitehall,  is  situated  on 
Northwest  Bay,  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain.  It  con- 
tains 700  or  800  inhabitants,  and  is  a  thriving  place.  A  horse 
fen^y-boat  here  plies  cross  the  lake,  running  to  Basin  Harbor, 
Vermont 

Basin  Harbor,  one  of  the  best  on  the  lake,  is  in  the  town 
of  Ferrisburgh,  Vt.,  and  is  five  miles  west  from  the  city  of 
Vergennes,  and  is  the  landing  for  it. 

Fort  Cassin,  three  miles  north  of  Basin  Harbor,  and  on  the 
north  side  of  the  mouth  of  Otter  Creek,  was  formerly  a  landing 
place  of  passengers  for  Vergennos.  It  is  eight  miles  from  the 
city  of  Vergennes,  where  Macdonough's  fleet  was  fitted  out,  with 
wliich  he  gained  his  victory.  Fort  Cassin  takes  its  name  from 
Lieut.  Cassin,  of  the  navy,  who,  with  a  small  breastwork  at  this 
place,  and  less  than  200  men,  commanded  by  himself  and  Capt. 
Thornton,  of  the  artillery,  on  the  14th  of  May,  1814,  repulsed 
a  large  British  force  in  an  attempt  to  enter  the  creek  for  the 
purpose  of  destroying  the  American  flotilla  before  it  should  be 
ready  for  service. 


WIIITEflALL    TO    R0U8K*S    POINT.  213 

Split  Rock  has  been  rcgfirdod  ns  ono  of  the  greatest  natural 
curiosities  on  the  Inke,  and  is  one  which  did  not  escape  the 
notice  of  the  earliest  French  explorers.  RochnFrndu  occupiei 
a  conspicuotjs  place  on  Charlevoix's  map  of  1714.  The  purt  de- 
tached contains  about  half  an  acre,  rises  about  30  feet  above 
tlie  water,  is  covered  with  bushes,  and  is  separated  about  twelve 
feet  from  the  main  rot^k.  Some  have  suppovsed  the  chasm  to 
have  been  produced  by  the  breaking  off  of  the  promontory  in 
consoquence  of  being  undermined  l>y  the  lake,  or  by  some  groat 
oonvulsion  of  nature.  But  the  slightest  examination  shows  that 
tlie  rocky  point  was  hero  originally  crossed  by  what  geologists 
call  a  dike,  the  materials  of  which  have  been  washed  out,  form- 
inj?  a  chasm  in  the  more  solid  rock,  through  which  the  lake 
flows  when  high  The  chasm,  instead  of  being  unfathomable, 
as  some  have  represented,  is  so  shallow  that  no  water  flows 
through  when  the  lake  is  low.  A  few  rods  south  of  Split  Rock 
stands  a  light- house.  The  width  of  the  lake  between  Split 
Rock  and  Thompson's  Point  is  only  about  a  mile.  From  this 
place  the  width  of  the  lake  increases  toward  the  north,  and  at 
McJVeiPs  Ferry,  between  Charlotte  landing  and  the  village  of 
Essex,  it  wants  20  rods  of  three  miles. 

The  village  of  Esskx,  61  miles  from  Whitehall,  is  hand- 
somely situated  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain,  opposite 
Charlotte  Landing,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  horse 
ferry-boat.  Population  about  700.  The  lake  here  expands  to 
three  or  four  miles  in  width,  and  presents  a  large  expanse  of 
water  toward  the  north.  The  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont, 
and  the  Adirondack  Group  of  Essex  County,  are  here  seen 
stretching  north  and  south  in  vast  mountain  peaks  and  ridges. 
The  Camel's  Hump,  being  one  of  the  highest  peaks  of  the  for- 
mer, is  overlooked  by  Mount  Marcy,  on  the  New  York  side  of 
the  lake,  the  latter  being  elevated  5,407  feet,  or  upward  of  one 
mile  above  the  tide  waters  of  the  Hudson;  and  near  it  this 
noble  river  has  its  most  northern  source. 

Four  Brothers  are  four  small  islands  lying  about  seven 
miles  southwest  from  Burlington,  and  being  out  of  the  usual 


214  WHITEHALL   TO    ROUPK  8    POINT. 

lino  of  navigation,  thoy  aro  rosortfHl  to  by  gtill«  and  othef 
water-fowl  for  the  purpose  of  raiHiiig  their  young.  On  Churlo- 
Yoix'8  map  of  1744  they  are  ciilled  Isle  de  Qualre  l^enis, 

JuNiPKR  Inland  lies  about  tlireo  miles  southwoHt  from  Tur- 
lington— ia  composed  of  sliito  rock,  with  precipitous  banks 
about  thirty  feet  higli,  and  covered  witli  aljout  a  dozen  acres  of 
good  soil.     A  light-house  was  erected  here  in  182tJ. 

KocK  DuNDKR  is  a  solitary  rock  rising  out  of  tho  water,  be- 
tween Juniper  Island  and  Puttier's  Point,  to  the  heigltt  of  about 
thii'ty  feet. 

BuRLitvciTON,  Vt.,  80  miles  from  Whitehall,  25  miles  from 
Plattsburgh,  and  50  miles  from  House's  Point  by  steamboat 
route,  is  delightfully  situated  on  liurlington  Bay,  on  the  cast 
shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  is  the  most  important  place  in 
the  State.  It  possesses  a  convenient  and  safe  harbor  for  steam- 
boats and  lake  craft.  The  United  States  government  have  here 
erected  a  breakwater,  which  protects  the  shipping  from  westerly 
•winds,  and  is  a  great  n'VMon  to  the  security  of  the  harbor. 
In  18<)0  it  conta'  ^^  /  pulation  of  7,7 lo  inhabitants;  tho 
University  of  V  I'lut.  landed  in  1791,  occupying  four  spa- 
cious edifices,  and  uaving  a  medical  school  attached  to  it ;  the 
Episcopal  institute,  a  courthouse  and  jail,  eight  churches  of 
ditferent  denominations,  an  academy,  and  two  female  semina- 
ries; three  banking-houses,  several  well  kept  hotels,  and  a 
number  of  stores  of  different  kinds,  besides  several  factories 
and  mills,  and  almost  every  kind  of  mechanic  establishments. 
About  1.]  miles  distant,  on  tho  falls  of  the  Onion  River,  is  a 
thriving  manufacturing  place  called  Winooski,  where  are  lo- 
cated several  large  factories  and  mills. 

Burlington  is,  no  doubt,  destined  rapidly  to  increase  in  wealth 
and  population,  from  the  fact  of  here  centering  several  impor- 
tant lines  of  railroad  travel,  extending  from  Boston  by  two 
routes,  through  Montpelier  and  through  Rutland.  This  rail- 
road and  steamboat  communication  extends  across  Lake  Cham- 
plain  to  Plattsburgh  and  Rouse's  Point,  running  north  to 
Montreal,  Canada,  and  west  to  Oardensburgh,  N.  Y. 


WHITEHALL   TO   ROUBEd's    POINT.  215 

Its  advftntages  are  now  great,  and  ita  situation  most  beauti- 
ful, overlooking  the  lake,  with  its  bays,  islands,  and  adjacent 
Bconery— the  passing  steamboata  and  other  vessels — and  pos- 
808808  a  li^auty  of  location  probably  unsurpasned  by  nny  other 
place  in  the  Union.  In  trade  and  commerce  it  is  closely  allied 
with  the  interests  of  the  State  of  New  York.  8teamlK)ats  Htop 
hero  daily  on  their  route  from  Whitehall  to  Rouse's  Point ;  a 
steamboat  also  plies  from  this  place  to  Port  Kent,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  lake,  a  distance  of  ten  miles,  and  thence  to 
Plattsburgh,  25  miles. 

The  principal  hoti^ls  in  Rurlingtoii  are  the  American  H«)tcl 
the  Like  House,  and  the  Howard  Hotisc. 

Travelers  wishing  to  visit  Mansfield  MountniiXy  20  miles 
northcMSt  of  Burlington,  or  the  CameTs  Hunip^  in  the  town 
of  Huntington,  al)out  the  same  distance  in  a  southeast  direc- 
tion, can  easily  obtain  conveyances  to  either  of  the  alwve  ro- 
mantic resorts.  From  the  summit  of  both  are  obtained  beau- 
tiful  and  sublime  views  of  the  surrounding  country  and  Lake 
Champlain,  said  to  fully  equal  the  prospect  from  the  White 
Mountains  of  New  Hiimpsliire.  The  Vermont  Central  Railroad 
route,  between  Burlington,  Montpelier,  and  Windsor,  runs  near 
the  base  of  the  latter  mountain. 

The  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  about  120  miles 
east  of  Burlington,  are  reached  from  this  place  by  railroad  and 
stage,  passing  over  the  Vermont  Central  Railroad  to  White 
River  Junction,  and  from  thence  up  the  valley  of  the  Connecti- 
cut River  to  Wells'  River,  where  commences  the  White  Mount' 
ain  Railroad^  extending  to  Littleton,  N.  H.  From  Littleton 
stages  run  to  the  Notch  of  the  White  Mountains,  a  farther 
distance  of  20  miles.  This  line  of  travel  can  be  extended 
through  to  Portland,  Me.,  passing  over  a  romantic  section  of 
country. 


216  WHITEHALL    TO    ROUSK's    POINT. 

Mount  Mansfiki-b  is  knovm  as  the  first  in  diijnity,  beauty, 
and  grundour  of  all  the  Grouu  Hills  of  Venuoiit  It  cousista 
of  three  proniincint  peaks  lying  in  a  line  nearly  north  and 
Bontli,  wliich,  viewed  from  the  valKy  neir  Stwwe,  i^^aa  a  re- 
semblance to  the  jiroiile  of  the  human  face  turned  upward. 
From  thi.i  fact  the  three  summits  have  received  the  luvmcs  of 
*'  Chin,"  "  Nose,"  and  "  Forehead."  The  Chin  is  about  4.r)00 
feet  high  ;  the  Nose  or  middle  summit  about  J,2!)0  feet,  and 
the  Foiehead  or  south  peak  about  100  feet  lower  than  the 
Nose.  No  written  description  can  adequately  describe  tlie  ex- 
tent, variety,  and  beauty  of  scenery  visible  from  the  Chin  ; 
but  it  is  suliicient  to  say  that  a  more  extensive,  delightfuL  and 
charming  view  is  not  to  be  found  on  the  Continent.  Standing 
on  the  summit  in  a  clear  day,  and  looking  westward,  the  most 
prominent  of  all  the  objects  that  lill  the  eye  of  the  beholder, 
is  Lake  Champl.iln.  It  seems  but  a  short  way  olf,  but  in  re- 
ality is  eighteeii  or  twenty  miles  to  tlie  ncan^st  point ;  whilo 
far  to  the  north  and  south,  40  or  50  miles  distant,  its  smooth 
surface,  like  high  polished  musses  of  silver,  reflect  the  rays  of 
tlie  evening  sun,  and  give  lig;it  and  beauty  to  the  scene. 
Occupying  the  intervening  space  l^etween  the  Lake  anil  the 
ba.se  of  tlie  mountain,  spread  out  like  a  m.  p  under  tlie  feet  of 
tlie  observer,  are  forests,  cultivated  lields,  villages,  and  streams 
of  water,  comprising  the  rii-'iiest  agricidtural  region  of  Ver- 
niont.  Beyond  L  ike  Champlain,  stretching  to  tlie  north  and 
south  as  far  as  the  eye  can  s.^o,  rise  the  majestic  and  pictur- 
esque Adirondack  Moiuitains,  which  furnish  an  appropriate 
background  to  the  picture  and  terminate  the  view  in  tliat  di- 
rection. 

Turning  to  the  east,  a  vast  extent  of  country  stretchers  away 
to  the  Coimecticut  lliver,  mapped  out  with  briglit  liehls  of  grain, 
pleasant  openings,  daik  ft;rests,  streams,  roads,  Ikaiscs  and 
cliurch  spires,  with  hills  and  v^ulieys  interspersed  ;  and  far  be- 
ymd,  GO  or  70  miles  distant,  the  eye  rests  upon  mi>unt  Wash- 
ington, which  lilts  its  blue  peak  on  thg  extreme  verge  of  tho 
borizon,  and  forms  a  marked  feature  of  the  eastern  landscape. 

THE   GEEEN    MOUNTAINS. 

"Hail,  land  of  Green  Mountains !  wliose  vfilleys  and  streams 
Are  as  lair  as  the  muse  over  piiitured  in  dreuras ; 
Where  the  stranger  oft  sighs  with  omoiioi.  sinrore  — 
Ah,  would  that  my  own  native  home  had  been  here  I 

Hail,  land  of  the  lovely,  the  equal,  the  brave, 
Never  trod  b/llie  foe.  never  lilli-d  by  tlie  save; 
Where  tlie  lore  of  the  world  lo  the  hamlet  is  brought, 
And  speech  ia  an  free  as  the  piuious  of  thought,'' 


V 


WHITEHALL    TO    R0USF.*8    POINT.  217 

Port  Kent  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  west  side  of 
Liike  Champlain,  12  miles  south  of  the  village  of  Plattsburgh. 
]t  contains  about  400  inhabitants  and  50  dwelling-houses.  The 
site  of  this  place  is  beautiful,  commanding  one  of  the  finest  views 
on  Champlain,  extending  to  the  opposite  shore  of  Vermont. 

Immediately  south  of  the  landing  at  Port  Kent  lies  Trembhu 
Point,  the  commencement  of  the  Clinton  range  of  mountains. 

Kekseville,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Au  Sable  River,  is 
four  miles  west  of  Port  Kent.  It  contains  about  3,000  inhab- 
itants, 400  dwelling-houses,  one  Congregational,  one  Baptist, 
one  Methodist,  and  one  Roman  Catholic  church ;  an  incorpo- 
rated academy,  one  banking-house,  two  taverns,  and  20  stores 
and  groceries.  The  water-power  at  this  place  is  very  great, 
and  advantageously  used  by  several  extensive  manufacturing 
establishments.  There  are  two  flouring-mills,  four  extensive 
saw-mills,  which  make  annually  about  half  a  million  of  market 
boards,  an  iron  foundry,  one  furnace,  and  a  machine-shop,  to- 
gether with  most  other  kinds  of  mechanic  workshops. 

At  Birmingham,  two  miles  below  KeeseviUe,  is  a  succession 
of  picturesque  falls,  in  all  about  150  feet  descent.  Immediately 
below  thoi  lower  falls  the  river  enters  a  deep  ravine  of  singular 
and  roEiantic  beauty  Through  the  chasm  thus  formed  by  the 
wearing  of  ^the  waters,  or  some  convulsion  of  nature,  the  rocks 
rise  from  75  to  150  feet,  almost  perpendicular,  for  a  distance  of 
about  two  miles,  averaging  about  50  feet  in  width,  altogether 
forming  a  great  natural  curiosity.  In  addition  to  the  above, 
there  are  other  ravines  in  this  vicinity  of  singular  formation. 

From  Port  Kent  to  Plattsburgh  the  course  is  along  the  west- 
ern shore  of  the  lake,  passing  several  islands. 

Port  Jackson,  the  only  intermediate  landing  place,  is  nearly 
west  of  the  south  end  of  Valcour  Isla?ul,  noted  for  a  severe 
naval  conflict,  on  the  Uth  of  October,  1776,  between  the  Amer- 
ican flotilla  under  General  Arnold,  and  the  Britisli  under  Capt. 
Prindle.    The  battle  was  fought  a  little  north  of  Port  Jackson. 

"  Five  or  six  miles  nearly  east  from  Port  Jackson  was  the 
Bcyne  of  the  conflagration  of  the  steamer  Phoenix  on  the  oth  of 

19 


218  WHITEHALL    TO   ROUSE's    POINT. 

September,  1819.  On  the  morning  of  the  accident,  the  Phoenix 
left  Burlington  about  one  o'clock,  against  a  strong  north  wind. 
About  3  o'clock,  while  oif  nearly  west  of  the  south  end  of 
Grand  Isle,  the  boat  was  discovered  to  be  on  fire,  and  all  efforts 
to  extinguish  it  were  unavailing.  There  were  at  this  time  44 
persons  on  board,  31  of  whom  entered  the  small  boats,  and  suc- 
ceetfed,  with  considerable  difficulty,  in  reaching  a  small  island 
about  a  mile  to  the  windward,  called  Providence  Island.  The 
remaining  13  were  soon  obliged  to  commit  themselves  to  the 
water  upon  bits  of  plank  and  such  other  things  as  were  within 
their  reach.  The  small  boats  returned  just  after  daylight,  and 
succeeded  in  saving  six  of  those  who  had  managed  to  keep  them- 
selves afloat.  The  remaining  seven  were  drowned.  The  wreck 
drifted  southward  and  lodged  on  a  reef  extending  from  Colches- 
ter Point.  This  is  the  only  accident  worthy  of  notice  which  has 
occurred  during  46  years  of  steam  navigation  on  this  lake." 

Plattsburgh,  Clinton  Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  situated  on  both  sides 
of  the  Saranac  River,  100  miles  north  of  Whitehall  and  25  miles 
south  of  Rouse's  Point  by  steamboat  route  It  was  incorporated 
as  a  village  in  1815,  and  now  contains  about  4,000  inhabitants. 
500  dwelling-houses,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  county  clerk's 
office ;  a  town-hall,  one  Presbyterian,  one  Episcopal,  one  Meth- 
odist, and  two  Roman  Catholic  churches ;  an  incorporated  acad- 
emy, 50  stores  of  different  kinds,  and  six  public  houses,  the 
principal  of  which  are  the  Cumberland  House  and  Fouquet's 
Hotel ;  two  banks  and  one  insurance  office.  Here  ace  situated, 
on  the  Saranac,  using  water-power,  two  flouring-mills,  one 
woolen  factory,  one  fulling  mill,  two  saw-mills,  two  machine- 
shops,  and  one  foundry  ;  there  are  also  two  tanneries,  one  soap 
manufactory,  three  printing-offices,  together  with  almost  every 
other  kind  of  mechanic  workshops.  The  water-power  at  this 
place  is  very  great,  the  Saranac  River  here  having  a  succession 
of  falls,  making  a  total  descent  of  about  40  feet.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  rich  in  agricultural  and  mineral  produc- 
tions ;  iron  ore  of  fine  quality  is  procured  in  different  parts  of 
the  county.  This  is  also  a  United  States  military  post,  where 
the  government  has  erected  extensive  stone  barracks,  near  the 
lake  shore,  and  a  permanent  breakwater  for  the  protection  of 
tile  harbor  in  Cumberland  Bay. 


WHITEHALL    TO    ROUSK^S    POINT.  219 

Steamers  run  daily,  during  the  season  of  navigation,  from 
Plattsburgh  to  Burlington  and  Whitehall  on  thtj  souin.  and  to 
St.  Albans  and  Rouse's  Point  on  the  north,  connecting  with 
dilFerent  railroads.  The  Plattsburs;h  and  Montreal  Railroad 
extends  in  a  northerly  direction  to  Mooer's  Junction,  and  thence 
across  the  Canada  line  to  Caughnawaga  and  Montreal,  a  total 
dintance  of  62  miles. 

RAILROAD  ROUTE  FROM  PLATTSBURGH  TO  MONTREAL. 
Stations.  Milea.  Total  Milea. 

Plattsburgh 0     0 

WestChazy 10     10 

Mooer's  Junction 10     20 

Hemingford,  Canada 6     26 

St.  Remi 15     41 

Caughnawaga 11     62 

La  Chine 2     64 

Month  e  al 8     62 

Usual  Time,  three  hours.     Fare,  $2  10. 

Plattsburgh  was  the  scene  of  an  important  engagement  be- 
twcen  the  British  and  American  armies,  in  September,  1814, 
which  resulted  in  the  defeat  of  the  British,  under  the  command 
of  Sir  George  Prevost,  and  the  capture  of  the  British  fleet  under 
Com.  Downle,  who  was  killed  in  the  action.  The  American 
army  was  commanded  by  Maj.  Gen.  Macomb,  and  the  fleet  by 
Com.  McDonough. 


NAVAL  ENGAGEMENT  AND  BATTLE  OF  PLATTSBURGH, 

SEPT.   11,  1814. 

Copied  from  Palmet'^s  "  Histobt  op  Lake  Ciiamplain." 

"  Whex  the  British  army  reached  Plattsburgh,  their  gun- 
boats had  advanced  as  far  as  the  Isle  La  Motte,  where  they 
remained,  under  command  of  Capt  Pring.  On  the  8th  Sept., 
Captain  Downie  reached  that  place  with  the  rest  of  the  fleet, 
and  on  the  morning  of  the  11th  the  whole  weighed  anchor  and 
stood  south  to  attack  the  Americans,  who  lay  in  Cumberland 
Bay,  off  Plattsburgh. 

**Aa  the  British  vessels  rounded  Cumberland  Head,  about 


220  NAVAL    BATTLE    OF    PLATTSnTJRQH. 

eijsht  o'clock  in  the  mornina:,  they  found  McDononj^h  at  anchor 
a  little  south  of  the  moutli  of  tho  Saranac  River,  and  abreast, 
but  out  of  gun-shot,  of  tlie  forts.  His  vessels  lay  in  a  lino  run- 
ninoj  north  from  Crab  Island,  and  nearly  parallel  with  the  west 
flhore.  The  brig  Kai^f.-,  Cnptain  Henley,  lay  at  the  head  of  the 
line,  inside  the  point  of  the  Head  This  vessel  mounted  twenty 
guns  and  had  on  board  one  hundred  and  fifty  men.  Next  to 
her.  and  on  the  south,  lay  McDonouj^h's  flag-ship,  the  Snratoso., 
mounting  twenty-six  guns,  with  two  hundred  and  twelve  men. 
Next  south  was  the  schooner  TiromJero^^a,  of  seventeen  guns, 
fiieutonant  Cassin,  with  one  hundred  and  ten  men,  and  next  to 
her.  and  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  line,  lay  the  sloop 
Preble,  Lieutenant  C'harles  Budd,  This  vessel  carried  seven 
guns,  and  was  manned  by  thirty  men.  She  lay  so  near  the 
Bhoal  extending  northeast  from  Crab  Island,  as  to  prevent  the 
enemy  from  turning  that  end  of  the  line.  To  the  rear  of  the 
line  were  ten  gun-boats,  six  of  which  mounted  one  long  twenty- 
four  pounder,  and  one  eighteen  pound  Columbiad  each;  the 
other  four  carried  one  twelve  pounder.  The  gun-boats  had,  on 
an  average,  thirty-five  men  each.  Two  of  the  gun-boats  lay  a 
little  north  and  in  rear  of  the  Eagle,  to  sustain  the  head  of  the 
line ;  the  others  were  placed  opposite  the  intervals  between  the 
different  vessels,  and  about  forty  rods  to  their  rear.  The  larger 
vessels  were  at  anchor,  while  the  gun-boats  were  kept  in  posi- 
tion by  their  sweeps. 

"  The  British  fleet  was  composed  of  the  frigate  Confiance^ 
carrying  thirty-seven  guns,*  with  over  three  hundred  men, 
commanded  by  Captain  Downie;  the  brig  Linnet,  Captain 
Pring,  of  sirteen  guns  and  120  men;  the  sloop  Chub,  Lieutenant 
McGliee,  and  the  sloop  Finch,  Lieutenant  Hicks,  carrying  eleven 
gims  and  about  forty-five  men  each.  To  these  vessels  were 
added  twelve  gun-boats  of  about  forty-five  men  each.  Eight  of 
thorn  carried  two  guns,  and  four  one  gun  each.  Thus  the  force 
of  the  Americans  consisted  of  one  ship,  one  brig,  one  schooner, 
one  sloop,  and  ten  gun-boats,  manned  by  eight  hundred  and 
eighty-two  men,  and  carrying  in  all  eighty-six  guns.  The 
British  had  one  frigate,  one  brig,  two  sloops,  and  twelve  gun- 
boats, manned  by  over  one  thousand  men,  and  carrying  in  all 
ninety-five  guns.  The  metal  of  the  vessels  on  both  sides  Avas 
unusually  heavy.  The  Saratoga  mounted  eight  long  twenty- 
fours,  six  forty-twos,  and  twelve  thirty-twos,  while  the  ('on- 
fiance  had  the  gun-deck  of  a  heavy  frigate,  with  thirty  long 
twenty-fours  upon  it.  She  also  had  a  spacious  topgallant  fore- 
castle, and  a  poop  that  came  no  farther  forward  than  the  mizeu 

*  There  were  thirty-nine  guns  on  board  the  Ccaflance,  but  two  of  them 
wore  not  mounted.— Ooper. 


NAVAL    BATTLE    OF    PLATT8BUROH.  221 

mast.  On  the  first  were  a  long  twenty-four  on  a  circle,  and 
four  heavy  carronades ;  two  heavy  carronades  were  mounted  on 
the  poop. 

"  When  the  British  fleet  appeared  in  sight,  the  Finch  led  and 
kept  in  a  course  toward  Crab  Island,  while  the  other  vessels 
hove  to  opposite  the  point  of  Cumberland  Head,  to  allow  the 
gun- boats  to  come  up.  and  to  receive  final  instructions  as  to  the 
plan  of  attack.  The  vessels  then  filled  and  headed  in  toward 
the  American  fleet,  passing  inside  of  the  point  of  Cumberland 
Head ;  the  Chub  laying  her  course  a  little  to  windward  of  the 
Eagle,  in  order  to  support  the  Linnet,  which  stood  directly  to- 
ward that  vessel.  Captain  Downie  had  determined  to  lay  the 
Confiance  athwart  the  Saratoga,  but  the  wind  baftiing,  he  was 
obliged  to  anchor  at  about  two  cables'  length  from  that  ship. 
The  Finch,  which  had  run  about  half  way  to  Crab  Island,  tacked 
and  took  her  station,  with  the  gun-boats,  opposite  the  Ticonde- 
roga  and  Preble. 

'•  As  the  British  vessels  approached  they  received  the  fire  of 
the  American  fleet;  the  brig  Eagle  firing  first,  and  being  soon 
followed  by  the  Saratoga,  and  the  sloop  and  schooner.*  The 
Linnet  poured  her  broadside  into  the  Saratoga  as  she  passed 
that  ship  to  take  her  position  opposite  the  Eagle.  Captain 
Downie  brought  his  vessel  into  action  in  the  most  gallant  man- 
ner, and  did  not  fire  a  gun  until  he  was  perfectly  secured, 
although  his  vessel  suffered  severely  from  the  fire  of  the  Ameri- 
cans As  soon,  however,  as  the  Confiance  had  been  brought 
into  position,  she  discharged  all  her  larboard  guns,  at  nearly 
the  same  instant.  The  effect  of  this  broadside,  thrown  from 
long  twenty-four  pounders,  double  shotted,  in  smooth  water, 
was  terrible.  The  Saratoga  trembled  to  her  very  keel ;  about 
forty  of  her  crew  were  disabled,  including  her  first  Lieutenant, 
Mr.  Gamble,  who  was  killed  while  sighting  the  bow-gun. 

*'  Soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  engagement,  the  Chub, 
while  maneuvering  near  the  head  of  the  American  line,  received 
a  broadside  from  the  Eagle,  which  so  crippled  her  that  she 
drifted  down  between  the  opposing  vessels  and  struck.  Sh^was 
taken  possession  of  by  Mr,  Charles  Piatt,  one  of  the  Saratoga's 
midshipmen,  and  was  towed  in  shore  and  anchored.     The  Chub 


*  The  first  giin  fired  on  board  the  Saratojra  was  a  \oTig  twenty-four, 
which  McDonoiie;h  himself  sighted.  The  shot  i.s  said  to  have  struck  the 
Confiance  near  the  outer  liawse-liole,  and  to  have  passed  the  leni^th  of  her 
deck,  killing  and  wounding  several  men,  and  carrying  away  the  wheel. 
In  clearing  the  decks  of  the  Saratoga,  some  hen  coops  were  thrown  over- 
board, and  the  poultry  permitted  to  run  at  large.  Star  led  by  the  report 
of  the  opening  gun  of  the  Eagle,  a  young  cock  flew  upon  a  gun  slide, 
clapped  liis  wings  and  crowed.  The  men  gave  three  cheers,  and  consid- 
ered the  little  incidence  as  a  happy  omen,— Coope/'n  JSf(juval  MiHtory  cmd 
NUes'' BegUter.  * 


222        NAVAL  BATTLE  OF  PLATT8BURGH. 

had  suffered  severely;  nearly  half  of  her  men  having  been 
killed  or  wounded.  About  an  hour  later  the  Finch  was  drlvon 
from  her  position  by  the  Ticonderoga.  and,  being  badly  injured, 
drifted  upon  the  shoal  near  (Jrab  Island,  where  she  grounded. 
After  being  fired  into  from  the  small  battery  on  the  island,  she 
struck,  and  was  taken  possession  of  by  the  invalids  who  manned 
the  battery.* 

"  After  the  loss  of  the  Finch,  the  British  gun-boats  made 
several  efforts  to  close,  and  succeeded  in  compelling  the  sloop 
Preble  to  cut  her  cables  and  to  anchor  in  shore  of  the  line, 
where  she  was  of  no  more  service  during  the  engagement.  The 
gun  bouts,  emboldened  by  this  success,  now  directed  their  efforts 
toward  the  Ticonderoga,  against  which  they  made  several  very 
gallant  assaults,  bringing  the  boats,  upon  two  or  three  occa- 
sions, within  a  few  feet  of  the  schooner's  side.  They  were,  how- 
ever, as  often  beaten  back,  and  the  schooner,  during  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day,  completely  covered  that  extremity  of  the  line. 

*'  While  these  changes  were  taking  place  at  the  lower  end  of 
the  line,  a  change  was  also  made  at  the  other  extremity.  The 
Eagle,  having  lost  her  t>prings,  and  finding  herself  exposed  to 
the  fire  of  both  the  Linnet  and  Confiance,  dropped  down  and 
anchored  between  the  Saratoga  and  Ticonderoga,  and  a  little  in 
shore  of  both.  From  this  position  she  opened  afresh  on  the  (Jon- 
fiance  and  the  British  gun-boats,  with  her  larboard  guns.  Tiiis 
change  relieved  the  brig,  but  left  the  Saratoga  exposed  to  the 
wliole  fire  of  the  Linnet,  which  sprung  her  broadsides  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  rake  the  ship  on  her  bows. 

"  The  fire  from  the  Saratoga  and  Confiance  now  began  mate- 
rially to  lessen,  as  gun  after  gun  on  both  vessels  became  dis- 
abled, until  at  last  the  Saratoga  had  not  a  single  available  gun, 
and  the  Confiance  was  but  little  better  off".  It  therefore  became 
necessary  that  both  vessels  should  wind,  to  continue  the  action 
with  anv  success.  This  the  Saratoga  did  after  considerable  de- 
lay, buL  the  Confiance  was  less  fortunate,  as  the  only  effect  of 
her  efforts  was  to  force  the  vessel  ahead.     As  soon  as  the  Sara- 


*  Mr.  Alison  (History  of  Ensfland,  vol.  4),  referring  to  this  event,  says  : 
**  The  Finch,  a  British  hrig^  grounded  out  of  shot  and  did  not  engage  ,*" 
and  again,  "The  Finch  struck  on  a  reef  of  rockH  and  could  not  get  into 
action."  Ilad  Mr.  Alison  taken  Ihe  trouble  to  read  Capt.  Pring's  orti<'ial 
ac<'ount  of  the  engagement,  he  would  have  found  in  it  the  following  sta-e- 
ment:  "  Lieutenjint  Hicks,  of  the  Finch,  had  the  mortification  to  strike  on 
a  reet'of  rocks,  to  the  eastward  of  Crab  Island,  about  the  middle  of  the  en- 
gagement, which  prevented  his  rendering  that  assistance  to  the  squadron 
ftiat  miglit,  from  an  (.>ffleer  of  such  ability,  have  been  expected."  It  is  very 
convenient  for  the  English  historian  to  convert  a  small  sloop  of  eleven 
guns  and  forty  men  into  a  hrig,  and  to  ke-p  that  large  vessel  out  of  the 
action  altogether,  but,  as  I  h;ive  before  said,  such  statements  are  unnecea- 
Bary  to  preserve  the  well  -earned  reputation  of  the  British  uavy  for  bravery 
•vr  gallantry  in 'action. 


NAVAL  BATTLE  OF  PLATTSBUROH.        223 

toflfa  came  around  she  poured  a  fresh  broadside  from  her  lar- 
board guns  into  the  Confiance,  which  stood  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes  and  then  struck.  The  ship  then  brought  her  guns  to 
bear  on  the  Linnet,  which  surrendered  in  about  fifteen  minutes 
afterward.  At  this  time  the  British  gun-boats  biy  half  a  mile 
in  the  rear,  where  they  had  boon  driven  by  the  sharp  lire  of  the 
Ticondoroga  and  Eagle.  These  boats  lowered  their  colors  as 
soon  as  they  found  the  larger  vessels  had  submitted ;  but  not 
being  pursued,  for  the  American  gunboats  were  sent  to  aid 
the  Confiance  and  Linnet,  which  were  reported  to  bo  in  a  sink- 
ing condition,  they  escaped,  together  with  a  store  sloop,  which 
luy  near  the  point  of  Cumberland  Head  during  the  battle. 

"  The  engagement  continued  for  two  hours  and  a  half,  and 
was  the  most  severely  fought  naval  battle  of  the  Avar.  The 
c5aratoga  had  twenty-eight  men  killed  vnd  twenty-nine  wounded ; 
the  Eagle  thirteen  killed  and  twenty  wounded ;  the  Ticonde- 
roga  six  killed  and  six  wounded,  and  the  Preble  two  killed. 
The  loss  on  the  gun-boats  was  three  killed  and  three  wounded. 
Total  killed  and  wounded,  one  hundred  and  ten,  being  equal  to 
every  eighth  man  in  the  fleet.  Besides,  the  Saratoga  had  boon 
hulled  fifty-five  times,  and  was  twice  on  fire;  the  Eagle  was 
hulled  thirty-nine  times.  The  carnage  and  destruction  had 
been  as  great  on  the  other  side.  The  Confiance  had  forty-one 
men  killed  and  eighty-three  wounded  ;  the  Linnet  reported  h  .t 
Ciisualties  at  ten  killed  and  fourteen  wounded,  but  the  kilkvl 
and  wounded  probably  exceeded  fifty ;  the  Chub  was  reporto  1 
at  six  killed  and  ten  wounded,  and  the  Finch  at  two  wounded. 
No  account  is  given  of  the  loss  on  the  gun-boats,  but  from  their 
close  and  severe  contest  with  the  Ticonderoga,  it  must  have 
been  large.  The  total  of  killed  and  wounded  on  the  Briti.sh  side 
was  equal  to  at  least  one  fifth  of  the  whole  number  of  men  in 
their  ileet.  The  Confiance  had  been  hulled  one  hundred  and 
five  times.  So  severe  had  been  the  contest,  that  at  the  close  of 
the  action  there  was  not  a  mast  in  either  fleet  fit  for  use.* 

"  Among  those  killed  on  the  side  of  the  British  were  Captain 
Downie.  who  fell  soon  after  the  action  commenced.  Captain 
Alexander  Anderson  of  the  Marines,  Midshipman  Williim  (junn 
of  the  Confiance,  and  Lieutenant  William  Paul  and  Boatswain 
Charles  Jackson  of  the  Linnet.  Among  the  wounded  were  Mld- 
Bhipman  Lee  of  the  Confiance,  Midshipman  John  Sinclair  of  the 

*  I  could  only  look  at  the  enemy's  galleys  going  off,  in  a  shattered  con- 
dition; for  there  was  not  a  mast  in  either  squadron  that  could  stand  to 
make  sail  on;  the  lower  rigging  being  nearly  all  shot  away,  hung  down 
as  though  it  had  been  just  placed  over  the  mast  head.  —  . VcIJoFu)Ut/.'i.\3 
Jieport  of  the  BatUe.  Our  masts,  yards,  and  sails  were  so  shattered,  that 
one  looked  like  so  many  bunches  of  matches,  and  the  other  like  a  buudla 
of  rags. — Letter  qf  Midahipman  Lee  of  the  Conjlance. 


224  NAVAL    BATTLE    OF   PLATT8BURGH. 

Linnet,  and  Lieutenant  James  McOhoe  of  the  Chub.    The  Amer- 
ican ofhcors  killed  were  Peter  (Jamble,  Ist  Lieutenant  of  the 
Saratoga,  John  Stansbury,  1st  Lieutenant  of  the  Ticoudoroga, 
Midshipman  James  M.  Baldwin,  and  Sailing  Master  llogers 
Carter.     Referring  to  the  death  of  three  of  these  officers,  Mr. 
Cottper,  in  his  History  of  the  Navy,  says  :  •  Lieutenant  Gamble 
was  on  his  knees,  sighting  the  bow  gun,  when  a  shot  entered 
the  port,  .split  the  quoin,  drove  a  portion  of  it  against  his  breast, 
and  laid  him  dead  on  the  quarter-deck  without  breaking  his 
Bkin.     Fifteen  minutes  later  one  of  the  American  shot  struck 
the  muzzle  of  a  twent3'-four  on  the  Contiaiice,  dismounted  it, 
Bending  it  bodily  inboard  against  the  groin  of  Captain  Downie, 
killing  him  also  without  breaking  the  skin.     Lieutenant  Stans- 
bury suddenly  disappeared  from  the  bulwarks  forward,  while 
superintending  some  duty  with  the  springs  of  the  Ticonderoga. 
Two  days  after  the  action,  his  body  rose  to  the  surface  of  the 
water,  and  it  was  found  that  it  had  been  cut  in  two  by  a  round 
shot.' 

"  It  is  said  that  scarcely  an  individual  escaped  on  board  of 
either  the  Confiance  or  Saratoga  without  some  injury.  Mac- 
donough  was  twice  knocked  down ;  once  by  the  spanker-boom, 
which  was  cut  in  two  by  a  shot,  and  fell  upon  his  back  as  he 
was  bending  his  body  to  sight  a  gun ;  and  again  by  the  head 
of  a  gunner,  which  was  driven  against  him,  and  knocked  him 
into  the  scuppers.  Mr.  Brum,  the  sailing  master  of  the  Sara- 
toga, had  his  clothes  torn  oif  by  a  splinter  while  winding  the 
ship  Mr.  Vallette,  acting  Lieutenant,  had  a  shot-box,  on 
which  he  was  standing,  knocked  from  under  his  feet,  and  he 
too  was  once  knocked  down  by  the  head  of  a  seaman.  Very 
few  escaped  without  some  accident,  and  it  appears  to  have  been 
agreed  on  both  sides,  to  call  no  man  wounded  who  could  keep 
out  of  the  hospital.*  Midshipman  Lee  of  the  Confiance,  who 
was  wounded  in  the  action,  thus  describes  the  condition  of  that 
vessel :  '  The  havoc  on  both  sides  is  dreadful.  I  don't  think 
there  are  more  than  five  of  our  men,  out  of  three  hundred,  but 
what  are  killed  or  wounded.  Never  was  a  shower  of  hail  so 
thick  as  the  shot  whistling  about  our  ears.  Were  you  to  see 
my  jacket,  waistcoat,  and  trowsers,  you  would  be  astonished 
how  I  escaped  as  I  did,  for  they  are  literally  torn  all  to  rags 
with  shot  and  splinters ;  the  upper  part  of  my  hat  was  also  shot 
away.  There  is  one  of  our  marines  who  was  in  the  Trafalgar 
action  with  Lord  Nelson,  who  says  it  was  a  mere  Jleabite  in 
comparison  with  this."t 

♦  Cooper's  Naval  History. 

t  Letter  to  his  brotiier,  published  in  NilefC  Register,  vol.  8.    The  result 
of  the  eagagemeut  depended,  from  the  first,  upon  the  Saratoga  and  Coa« 


WHITEHALL    TO    ROUSf/s    POINT,  225 

Th£  officers,  on  both  sides,  who  fell  in  the  several  encounters 
by  land  and  water,  on  the  memorable  occasion  above  mentioned, 
were  buried  in  the  public  cemetery  adjacent  to  the  village  of 
Plattsburgh;  but  their  graves  were  left,  under  the  pressing 
exigencies  of  that  time,  without  any  permanent  monument,  or 
Btone  of  memorial.  That  community,  long  discontented  with 
an  omission  which  seemed  to  betoken  an  apathy  not  at  all  in 
unison  with  real  feelings,  at  last  determined  to  make  amends 
for  their  neglect,  and  fulfill  all  the  rites  of  sepulture.  Accord- 
ingly, a  little  previous  to  the  return  of  the  anniversary  of  the 
battle,  in  1843,  meetings  were  held  at  which  it  was  resolved  to 
celebrate  the  day,  by  placing  marble  monuments,  with  appro- 
priate inscriptions,  at  the  several  graves,  and  thus  render  to 
the  brave  and  devoted  dead  the  remaining  public  honors  so 
eminently  their  due,  and  so  long  left  unpaid.  This  design  was 
carried  into  effect  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Clinton 
County  Military  Association,  and  the  anniversary  rendered 
deeply  interesting  by  the  placing  of  these  monuments,  with 
appropriate  ceremonies  and  religious  services,  accompanied  by 
commemoration  addresses. 

The  graves  are  arranged  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram, 
with  tliat  of  Capt  Downie,  the  commander  of  the  British  flo- 
tilla, in  the  center,  as  the  officer  of  highest  rank.  The  names 
of  the  others,  so  far  as  known,  are  as  follow :  Of  our  own 
countrj'^men,  Lt.  George  W.  Runk,  of  the  U.  S.  A. ;  Lt.  Peter 
Gamble,  U.  S.  N. ;  Lt  John  Stansbury,  U.  S.  N. ;  Sailing  Mjis- 
tier  Rogers  Carter,  U.  S.  N. ;  Midshipman  James  M.  Baldwin, 
U.  S.  N. ;  Pilot  Joseph  Barron,  U.  S.  N.,  and  another  pilot, 
name  not  known.  Of  the  British  army.  Col.  Wellington,  ;M 
Regt  BuflFs,  Capt.  Purchess,  70th  Regt.,  Lieutenant  R.  Kings- 
burj',  3d  Regt.  BuflFs ;  and  of  the  British  navy,  Capt.  Alex. 
Anderson  and  three  Lieutenants,  names  not  known. 

fiance.  When  McDonough  anchored  his  vessel,  he  not  only  .nttached 
springs  to  the  cables,  but  also  laid  a  kedge  broad  off  on  each  bow  of  the 
Burutoga,  and  brought  the  hawsers  in  upon  the  two  quarters  To  tlilg 
tiiiiely  precaution  e  was  indebted  for  the  victory,  for  witbout  the  larboard 
hawser  h?  could  not  have  brought  his  frosh  broadside  into  action. 


22*>  WHITEHALL    TO    ROUSk's    POINT. 

The  beautiful  lines  of  an  Irish  poet  of  the  last  century  (Col* 
Una),  can  never  be  more  appropriate  than  to  this  occasion: 

"  How  sloop  the  brave  who  sink  to  rest, 

By  all  thi'ir  country's  wishes  blest ! 

When  sprhi!?  with  dewy  finger!*  cold, 

Returns  to  deek  their  hullowcfl  mold. 

Bhc  there  shall  dress  a  sweeter  f<od 
1  Than  fancy's  feet  have  ever  trod. 

1  There  honor  comes,  a  pilgrim  gray, 

To  bless  the  turf  that  wraps  their  clay, 

And  memory  shall  awhile  repair 

To  dwell  a  weeping  hermit  there. 

CuMBKULAND  Hkad  is  a  pcnlusula  extending  two  or  three 
miles  into  the  lake,  opposite  the  village  of  Plattsburgh,  forming 
Cvmberland  Bay,  into  which  empties  the  Saranac  River. 

Crab,  or  Hospital  Island  lies  two  miles  south,  and  near 
the  track  of  the  steamers  on  their  way  to  and  from  the  landing 
at  Plattsburgh.  It  was  on  a  line  nearly  north  and  south 
between  Cumberland  Head  and  Crab  Island  that  the  British 
and  American  fleets  encountered  each  other,  on  the  11th  of 
September,  1814,  a  day  which  brought  so  much  honor  to  the 
American  flag. 

South  IIkro  and  North  Hero  are  the  names  of  two  Is- 
lands belonging  to  the  jurisdiction  of  Vermont.  The  former  is 
connected  by  a  ferry,  and  on  the  east  side  with  the  main  shore 
of  Vermont  by  a  bridge. 

Chazy  Landing,  10  miles  north  of  Plattsburgh,  is  a  conve- 
nient steamboat  landing,  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain. 

Ible  au  Motte,  opposite  the  above  landing,  is  a  fine  island, 
also  attached  to  Vermont.  It  is  6  miles  long  and  2  miles  wide, 
containing  much  good  land,  and  a  valuable  quarry  of  marble. 

The  village  of  Rousk's  Point,  in  the  town  of  Champlain,  25 
miles  north  of  Plattsburgh,  and  125  miles  from  Whitehall,  ia 
situated  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain,  about  one  mile 
south  of  the  Canada  line,  and  has  a  convenient  steamboat 
landing,  a  verj  large  depot  building,  and  a  well  kept 
hotel.  It  is  surrounded  in  part  by  a  level  and  fertile  region, 
which  extends  west  to  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  One  mile  north 
of  the  village  is  a  fort  and  military  position  commanding  the 


WHITEHALL    TO    ROUSe's    POINT.  227 

navigable  channel  of  the  lake.  In  1815  the  government  of  the 
United  States  commenced  the  construction  of  a  strong  fortress 
at.  House's  Point;  but  on  running  out  the  boundary  line 
between  the  United  States  and  Canada,  under  the  treaty  of 
Ghent,  this  point  was  found  to  be  north  of  the  4rHh  degree  of 
north  latitude,  and  the  works  were  suspended. 

United  States  Boundary  Linr. — "This  line  was  fixed  in 
1842,  by  treaty  negotiated  by  Lord  Ashburton  and  Mr.  Web- 
ster, on  the  old  line  formerly  supposed  to  be  the  45th  parallel 
of  latitude.  Immediately  after  tlie  close  of  the  last  war  the 
United  States  government  commenced  building  a  f»  t  on  a  low 
point  to  the  northward  of  Rouse's  Point  landing,  which  sliould 
completely  command  the  passage  up  the  lake.  By  the  survey 
of  this  line  in  1818,  it  was  found  that  this  point  was  north  of 
the  45th  parallel,  and  the  work  was  consequently  abandoned ; 
but  by  the  late  treaty  the  fort  was  secured  to  the  United  States, 
and  the  work  has  recently  been  resumed.  An  opening  through 
the  woods  like  a  road,  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  and  about 
200  rods  north  of  the  fort,  marks  the  place  of  the  Line  as  now 
established." 

At  Rouse's  Point  is  erected  a  long  and  substantial  draw- 
bridge, crossing  the  foot  pf  Lake  Champlain,  for  the  accoramo- 
*  dation  of  the  railroad  traffic  passing  from  Montreal  and  Ogdens- 
burgli  to  New  York  and  Boston.  During  the  winter  months 
this  bridge  aflfords  the  exclusive  tlioroughfare  at  this  point 
between  Canada  and  the  Eastern  States. 

The  railroads  which  here  terminate  are  the  Vermont  and 
Canada  Railroad,  connecting  with  the  Vermont  Central  Rail- 
road; the  A'^orthern  Railroad  of  New  York,  118  miles  in  length, 
terminating  at  Ogdensburgh ;  and  the  Cfiamplain  id  St.  Law- 
rence  Railroad,  44  miles  in  length,  terminating  opposite  Mon- 
treal. 

On  arriving  and  departing  from  Rouse's  Point,  travelers  aro 
subjected  to  the  inconvenience  of  having  their  baggage  exam- 
ined by  custom-house  oflBcers ;  this  is  a  great  port  of  entry  as 
well  as  thoroughfare.  i 


228  WHITEHALL   TO    R(>U8E  8    POINT. 

TliH  town  of  ALUi;R(iH,  Vt.,  is  a  triangular  body  of  land  pro- 
joutinj;  from  Canada  into  Lake  Champlain,  \>y  which  it  ia  sur- 
rounded, excepting  on  the  Canada  side.  On  the  eastern  nhoro  • 
liwi  the  village  of  Jilbiir^h,  a  port  of  entry,  and  a  few  miles 
north  is  Allmr^h  Springs,  where  is  a  small  settlement  and 
several  hotels.  This  justly  celebrated  watoring-pla«!o  lies  near 
the  Missisquoi  Bay,  and  is  easily  reache<l  by  railroad,  being 
situated  seven  miles  east  of  Rouse's  Point  and  l(i  miles  west 
of  8t.  Albans,  Vt. 

HuiHOATK  Si'RiNGS,  thrce  miles  from  Swanton  Station  and 
17  mil(!s  from  House's  Point,  near  the  village  of  Ilighgute,  Vt.,  '\b 
enoLlier  and  favorite  watering-place,  attracting  much  attention. 
It  is  situated  near  Missisquoi  I^iy,  alfording  fine  fishing-grounds, 
and  an  opportunity  to  enjoy  aquatic  sports  and  hunting. 

MiK3i!?Quoi  Bay,  connecting  with  Lake  Champlain  on  tht 
north,  is  a  largo  and  romantic  sheet  of  water  lying  mostly  in 
Canada,  or  north  of  the  loth  degree  of  north  latitude.  This 
bay  and  its  sarrounding  shores  atford  most  romantic  and  do- 
liglitful  scenory,  varied  by  high  land  and  picturesque  points. 
Hunting,  fisiiing,  or  pleasure  sailing  can  here  be  enjoyed  by 
those  fond  of  such  sports,  while  the  invigorating  climate  gives 
strength  and  elasticitv  to  the  weak  and  debilitated  During  the 
summer  and  autuiuu  months  a  steamer  runs  around  the  bay, 
landing  at  PhiUipuhuri^k^  <'an.,  Highgatc,  Vt.,  and  other 
landings. 

Ash  Island,  four  miles  north  of  Rouse's  Point,  is  considered 
the  foot  of  Lfike  (ilhamplaiu.  Here  the  Richelieu,  or  St.  John's 
River,  as  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain  is  called,  is  about  half 
a  mile  wide.  The  land  on  both  sides  of  the  stream  seems  almost 
level  with  the  water,  and  presents  this  low  and  flat  surface  for 
many  miles 

IsLK  Airx  Noix,  situated  in  the  Richelieu  River,  12  miles 
north  of  Rouse's  Point,  is  the  first  steamboat  landing  after 
entering  Canada.  Here  is  a  strong  fortification  commanding 
the  channel  of  the  river,  and  occupied  by  British  troops. 


R0USK*8    POINT    TO  MONTIlEAL.    ETC.  229 

RAILROAD  UOITTK  FRONC  KOITSR'8   POI>fT  TO  OOI^EJJH- 
BUROII,  via  NOliTIli:u>;   UAILUOAD. 

Stations.  MiloH.  ToUil  Mllt-s. 

Rodsk'h  Point 0  0 

Mooer's  Junction 12  12 

Chazy 11  28 

Summit 14  37 

Chateaugay 9  46 

M  ALON  K *. 11  57 

Brush's  Mills. 11  08 

Stockholm 14  82 

Potsdam  Junction 11  93 

Lisbon 10  109 

Ogdensburgh 9  1 18 

Usual  Timk,  6  hours.     Fahe,  .^3  50. 

On  leaving  House's  Point  for  St.  John's  and  Montreal,  the 
line  of  tlie  Champlain  and  St.  Lawriiice  Railrouil  extenls 
along  the  wcyt  side  of  tho  Sorcl  or  Richelieu  llivcr,  over  a  level 
and  productive  section  of  country,  passing  La  Colle,  six  miles 
from  House's  Point. 

St.  Johiv's  or  Dorchrstku,  150  miles  from  Whitehall,  is 
advantageously  situated  on  the  W3st  side  of  the  Hicholieu  River, 
at  the  foot  of  navigation;  a  bridge  connecting  it  with  the  vil- 
lage of  St.  Jlnthanasc,  on  the  opposite  shore.  It  is  23  miles 
north  of  the  American  line,  22  miles  southeast  of  Montreal, 
and  contains  about  2,200  inhabitants,  275  dwelling-houses,  a 
custom-house,  and  extensive  barracks  for  soldiers,  one  Episco- 
pal, one  Roman  Catholic,  and  one  Methodist  church ;  ten  ho- 
tels and  taverns,  ten  stores,  and  two  forwarding  houses,  one 
extensive  glass  factory,  one  stone  factory,  two  tanneries,  and 
mechanics  shops  of  different  kinds. 

The  Chambly  Canal  extends  from  St.  John's  to  Chambly, 
on  the  northwest  side  of  the  Richelieu  River,  a  distance  of  12 
miles.  It  was  completed  in  1843,  at  a  cost  of  about  $400,000. 
There  are  nine  locks  on  this  canal  120  feet,  long,  24  feet  wide, 


230  rouse's  point  to  Montreal,  etc. 

and  six  feet  deep;  lift  ten  feet  each,  making  a  total  descent  of 
90  feet  in  12  miles.  This  canal  was  constructed  b}  the  Pro- 
vincial G;overnment.  It  affords  navigation  for  vessels  of  100 
tons  burden  between  Lake  Champlain  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  thus  furnishing  an  uninterrupted  water  communication 
from  New  York  to  Quebec. 

The  railroad  from  St  John's  to  Montreal,  21  miles  in  length, 
extends  over  a  level  section  of  country,  the  St.  Lawrence  River 
Boon  coming  in  sight. 

The  aspect  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  truly  grand  and  interest- 
ing, as  you  approach  it  on  the  south  from  Rouse's  Point.  Tow- 
ard the  west  is  seen  the  La  Chine  Rapid,  one  of  the  most  dau- 
gerous  on  the  river.  Opposite  Montreal  it  is  two  miles  wido, 
embosoming  the  beautiful  island  of  St.  IIclGn,  which  is  fortified 
and  garrisoned  by  British  troops. 

As  you  approach  Montreal  by  water,  the  now  Victoria  Bridge, 
the  city,  shipping,  and  wharves  are  seen  to  great  advantRgo. 
The  latter — the  wharves — probably  exceed  any  thing  of  the  kind 
in  America,  consisting  of  a  range  of  massive  and  solid  masonry 
extending  along  the  river  for  upward  of  a  mile. 


The  following  beautiful  lines,  descriptive  of  one  of  the  sourcet 
of  human  happiness,  is  from  the  gifted  pen  of  N.  P.  Willis, 
and  may  be  appropriately  inserted  at  this  place : 

"  'Tis  to  have 
Attentive  and  believing  faculties  ; 
To  go  abroad  rejoicing  in  the  joy 
Of  beautiful  and  well-created  things ; 
To  love  the  voice  of  v.uters,  and  the  sheen 
Of  silver  fountains  leaping  to  the  sea; 
To  thrill  with  the  rich  melody  of  birds, 
Living  their  life  of  music ;  to  be  glad 
In  the  gay  sunshine,  reverent  in  the  storm; 
To  see  a  beauty  in  \he  stirring  leaf, 
And  And  calm  thoughts  beneath  the  whispering  tree; 
To  sec,  and  hear,  and  breathe  the  evidence 
Of  G  jd's  deep  wisdom  in  the  natural  world." 


TABLES    OF    DISTANCES. 


231 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES  BETWEEN"  ALBANl  AND  MONTREAL. 


Places.  Miles. 

ALI5ANY 0 

Troy 6 

Saratoga  Springs 32 

Whitehall 40 

Ticonderoga 24 

BlTRIJNCTOX,  Vt 61 

Plattsburgh,  N.  Y 25 

House's  Point,  "      25 

St.  John's,  Canada 23 

MONTHEAL 22 


From 
Albany. 

0 
6 

38 

78 
102 
153 
178 
203 
226 
248 


From 
Montreal. 

218 
242 
210 
170 
146 

95 

70 

45 

22 
0 


TABLE   OF   DISTANCES   FPwOM   MONTREAL   TO   QUEBEC,  BY 

"WATER. 

MONTREAL .^.  0 

To  Varennes 0 

William  Hknry 30 

Lake  St.  Peter 8 

St.  Francis 30 

Three  Rivers 7 

St.  Anno 20 

Richelieu  Rapids 15 

Cape  Sante 15 

Cape  l^ouge 22 

QUEBEC 8 


0 

15  Miles. 

45 

53 

83 

90 

110 

125 

140 

162 

170 

BAILROAD   ROUTE   FROM  MONTREAL   TO   QUEBEC,  WIIITB 
MOUNTAINS,  AND  PORTLAND,  MAINE,  ma  GRAND  TRUNK 

RAILWAY. 
Stations.  Miles.  Total  Miles. 

MOXTilEAL 0     0 

Longueuil 2     2 

St.   Hyacinthe 30     32 

Rir/wiond 42     74 

QUEBEC 97     171 

Shrrhrookc 24      98 

Boundary  Line 80     128 

Island  Pond,  Vt 17     145 

Northumberland 27     172 

GouH \M  {White  Mt.  Station)  ...  31     203 

South  Paris 43     246 

Danville  Junction 20     266 

POKTLAND 28     294 


2^2 


RAILROAD    ROUTE. 


RAILROAD    ROUTE    FROM    MONTREAL   TO   TORONTO,  via 
GRAND   TRUNK  RAILWAY. 


Stalious.  Miles. 

Month  eal 0 

liluo  Bonnets 6 

Pointe  ( lajre 15 

St,  Anne's  (  Ottawa  liiver)    21 

Vaudrcuil 24 

C(3(ltii'8  (roiid  to) 29 

Coteau  Landing 37 

River  Beaudotte 44 

Lancaster 54 

Cornwall 08 

Dickinson's  Landing 77 

Aultsville 84 

Williamsburg 92 

Matilda 99 

Edwardsburg 104 

Prescott  Junction. . , .  A  . .  112 

PuEhCOTT 118 

Maitland 120 

Brockville 1 25 

Mallorytown 137 

Lansdowno 140 

Gananoque 155 

Kingston  Mills 109 

Kingston 173 

Collins  Baj 180 

Ernestown 188 

Napaneo 199 

Sliannonville  218 

Bellkville 220 

Trenton 232 

Colborne..    249 

Grafton 256 

COBOURG 263 

PoKT  Hope 271 

Port  Britain 274 

Newcastle 286 

Bowman  ville 290 

OSHAWA 800 

Port  Whitby 304 

Port  Union 316 

Scarboro' 320 

Yoi-k 327 

loRONTO 833 


Stations.  Miles. 

TOHONTO 0 

York 6 

Scarboro' 18 

Port  Union 17 

Port  Whitby 29 

OsHAWA 33 

Bowman  ville 43 

Newcastle 47 

Port  Britain.  .  ." 59 

Port  Hope 62 

CoBOURG 70 

Grafton 77 

Colbovne 84 

Trenton 101 

Bellkville 113 

Shanuonville 120 

Napaneo 184 

Ernostown 145 

Collins  Bay 153 

Kingston 160 

Kingston  Mills 164 

(iananoque 178 

Lansdowne 187 

Mallorytown 198 

Brockville 208 

Maitland 213 

Prescott 220 

Prescott  Junction 221 

Edwardsburg 229 

Matilda 234 

Williamsburg 241 

AulisviUe 249 

Dickinson's  Landing 256 

Cornwall 265 

Lancaster 279 

River  Beaudette 289 

Coteau  Landing 296 

Cedars  (road  to) 304 

Vaudreuil  (  Ottawa  Riv'r)  809 

St.  Anne's 812 

Pointe  Claire 818 

Blue  Bonnets 828 

Montreal 333 


Usual,  Time,  15  hours.    Fare,  $10 


TRIP  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC. 


This  interesting  trip  is,  during  the  warm  season,  one  of  a 
most  delightful  character.  To  be  fully  enjoyed,  however,  it 
Bliould  be  performed  during  daylight ;  but,  unfortunately,  the 
evening  line  of  steamers  usually  alone  performs  the  trips, 
leaving  Montreal  at  seven  o'clock  p.  m.,  and  Quebec  two 
hours  earlier.  "  Both  banks  are  low  and  uninteresting  in  a 
Bcenic  point  of  view,  but  lined  with  the  neat,  whitewashed  cot- 
tages of  the  French-Canadian  peasantry,  built  so  closely  to 
each  other  as  to  suggest  the  idea  of  a  continuous  village  on 
either  bank ;  with  here  and  there  a  thicker  grouping  of  houses 
round  the  parish  church.  Darkness,  however,  soon  closes  the 
view,  and  the  traveler  only  knows  that  he  is  rapidly  borne 
along  on  the  now  united  and  smooth  waters  of  two  mighty  rivers, 
better  known  by  the  inhabitants  on  its  banks  as  the  La  Grande 
Rivih-c." 

On  leaving  Montreal  for  Quebec  and  the  intermediate  land- 
ings, in  one  of  the  many  splendid  steamers  Avliich  navigate  tlie 
St.  Lawrence,  you  have  n  fine  view  of  the  beautiful  fortified 
island  of  St.  Helen,  situated  mid-stream  opposite  the  city; 
and  as  you  are  borne  along  on  the  majestic  current  of  the 
mighty  river,  its  thickly  settled  and  cultivated  shores  compel 
the  admiring  attention  of  the  traveler,  by  the  aspect  presented 
by  their  lines  of  settlements  on  each  side,  for  the  whole  distance 
of  1 70  miles  from  city  to  city. 

LoNGUEUiL,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from  Montreal, 
is  connected  with  the  city  by  a  commodious  ferry — this  being 
the  present  terminus  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  leading 
to  Quebec  and  Portland,  Me.,  the  two  routes  diverging  at  Rich- 
mond, C.  E. — thus  forming  a  speedy  line  of  travel  both  to  Que- 
bcc  on  the  northeast,  and  the  WIdte  Mountains  of  New  Hamp- 
shire on  the  southeast. 


234  MONTREAL    TO    QUEBEC. 

The  Rapids  or  St.  Mary  are  entered  immediately  below  St 
Helen's  Island  ;  and.  although  not  formidable  to  steam  vessels, 
they  often  retard  the  ordinary  river  craft  for  many  days  in 
ascending. 

LojvouE  Point  and  Point  axtx  Trembles,  on  the  island  of 
Montreal,  are  successively  passed  on  the  left,  and  Bouchkr- 
viLLE  on  the  opposite  shore. 

The  Island  of  St.  Theresa  lies  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  a 
short  distance  from  the  northern  termination  of  the  island  of 
Montreal,  and  15  miles  below  the  city,  near  the  lower  mouth 
of  the  Ottawa  River. 

Varennes,  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  river,  15  miles  from 
Montreal,  is  a  beautiful  place,  and  was  formerly  much  resorted 
to  for  the  mineral  springs  in  its  vicinity.  The  massive  church, 
with  its  two  spires,  surrounded  by  a  cluster  of  neat  dwellings 
presents  a  fine  appearance  from  the  river.  Other  objects  of 
interest  are  seen  in  the  distance ;  the  hills  back  of  Montreal 
are  still  visible  ;  and  the  Mountain  of  Rounille,  rising  grandly 
in  the  southeast,  its  summit  crowned  with  an  iiumonse  cross, 
seen  for  many  miles,  greatly  exalts  the  character  and  expres- 
sion of  the  whole  prospect. 

William  Henry,  or  Sorel,  45  miles  below  Montreal,  stands 
on  the  site  of  an  old  fort,  built  in  16G5,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Richelieu  Eiver.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  with  streets  crossing 
each  other  at  right  angles.  This  town  was  first  settled  in  1(585, 
and  now  contains  about  3,000  inhabitants.  It  is  no  doubt  df^s- 
tined  to  increase,  as  a  canal,  with  locks,  is  now  constructed  from 
Chambly  to  St.  John's,  afibrding  an  uninterrupted  water  com- 
munication with  Lake  Champlain.  The  fort  at  this  place  was 
taken  and  occupied  in  May,  1776,  by  a  party  of  the  American 
army,  in  their  retreat  from  Quebec  on  the  death  of  Gen.  Mont- 
gomery. 

Leaving  the  mouth  of  the  Richelieu  and  proceeding  down  the 
St.  Lawrence,  several  islands  are  passed  in  succession,  and  then 
you  enter 

Lake  St.  Peter,  50  miles  below  MontreaL     This  sheet  of 


MONTREAL    TO    (iUEBKO.  235 

Water,  ■which  is  but  an  expansion  of  the  river,  is  about  25  miles 
long  and  12  to  15  miles  wide,  while  the  average  breadth  of  the 
river  proper,  from  Montreal  to  Quebec,  is  about  two  miles,  and 
tlie  scene  which  its  waters  present  has  some  features  peculiar 
enough  to  be  noticed.  In  addition  to  the  more  customary  forms 
of  steamboats,  of  ships,  and  other  sea-going  vessels,  and  of  the 
craft  usually  employed  in  the  navigation  of  large  rivers,  the 
waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  more  than  any  other  even  on  this 
forest-covered  continent,  are  frequented  by  enormous  timber- 
rafts,  commonly  borne  along  on  their  way  to  market  by  the 
force  of  the  current  alon  - ,  though  occasionally  aided  by  spread- 
ing a  sail,  or  by  huge  oars  called  sweeps.  These  floating  islands 
of  timber,  with  huts  here  and  there  rising  from  their  low  sur- 
face, for  the  accommodation  of  the  raft-men,  and  anotlier  sin- 
gular sort  of  craft  with  long,  low  hulls,  nowhere  else  known, 
and  designed  chiefly  for  the  transport  of  timber  of  great  length, 
contribute  the  more  remarkable  and  picturesque  features  to  the 
animating  spectacle  presented  by  the  navigation  of  this  noble 
river ;  while,  from  its  high  latitude,  and  from  the  character- 
istic phenomena  of  northern  skies,  the  ordinary,  as  well  as  the 
more  grotesque,  features  referred  to  are  accompanied  by  con- 
trasts in  the  golden  grandeur  of  the  sunsets,  and  in  the  varied 
splendor  of  the  northern  lights,  both  of  which  are  so  frequent 
and  so  remarkable,  that  they  may  be  very  fairly  regarded  as 
habitual,  and  from  which  the  scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  de- 
rives a  mognificence  and  beauty  probably  unequaled. 

Port  St.  Francis,  83  miles  below  Montreal,  is  the  next 
steamboat  landing.  Here  the  river  again  contracts  to  its  usual 
width, 

Thrke  Rivers,  about  half  way  between  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec, is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  St.  Maurice ;  nearly  opposite  to  which,  and 
of  smaller  volume,  enters  the  river  Becancour.  Three  llivers 
is  an  old  town,  having  been  settled  by  the  French  in  1018. 
Here  is  a  court-house  and  jail,  a  convent,  a  Roman  Catholic 
church,  and  three  Protestant  churches ;  a  mechanics'  institute. 


23G  MONTREAL    TO    QUEBEC. 

an  academy,  several  public  houses,  40  stores,  lumlier-yards,  a 
ship-yard  and  foundry ;  also,  other  manufacturing  estahlish- 
monts.  The  town  contains  about  6,000  inhabitants,  and  is  a 
place  of  considerable  trade  and  importance. 

This  place  has  become  a  great  lumber  mart,  caused  by 
^  he  opening  up  of  the  great  timber  country  in  its  rear,  on  the 
banks  of  the  St.  Maurice.  A  visit  to  the  wild  and  romantic 
Falls  of  Shawanagenne,  about  25  miles  up  this  river,  will  be 
found  interesting ;  it  may  be  easily  accomplished  in  one  day, 
the  road  leading  through  a  forest  for  most  of  the  way,  with 
here  and  there  a  hamlet  to  vary  the  scene.  A  part  of  tho 
jijurney  is  usually  performed  in  a  bark  canoe  propelled  by  In- 
dians. On  arriving  at  the  falls,  nothing  but  grandeur  and 
solitude  strikes  the  imagination. 

St.  Annk,  25  miles  below  Three  llivers,  stands  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the  same 
name. 

The  RiCHKLiEU  Rapids,  45  miles  above  Quebec,  extend  some 
eight  or  ton  miles.  The  channel  of  the  river  is  here  very  nar- 
row and  intricate,  huge  rocks  being  visible  in  many  places  dur- 
ing low  water.  In  order  to  guide  the  mariner  safely  through 
these  rapids,  beacon  lights  are  stationed  at  the  more  critical 
points  of  the  passage. 

Cape  Sante,  30  miles  from  Quebec,  is  on  the  north  side  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  on  the  opposite  side  is  a  .settlement  called 
Sr.  Trois.  The  banks  of  the  rivor  are  here  elevated  some  GO  or 
80  fi  t  above  the  water,  and  are  almost  perpendicular,  from 
which  the  land  extends  aw^ay  for  many  miles,  with  an  almost 
level  surface. 

Capk  Rouge,  eight  miles  above  Quebec,  is  next  passed  on  the 
left,  when  the  citadel  of  Quebec  comes  into  view,  presenting  a 
sight  at  once  grand  and  deeply  interesting,  from  the  historical 
events  with  wliich  it  is  associated. 

The  Chaudikre  River,  on  the  right,  is  much  visited  for  the 
sake  of  its  beautiful  falls,  situated  a  short  distance  from  its 
eutrance  into  the  St.  Lawrence. 


QUKBEC.  287 

WoLFF.'s  Cove,  two  miles  above  Quebec,  on  the  same  skle,  ia 
an  interesting  spot  to  strangers,  for  here  the  lamented  JVuy'e 
landed  with  his  gallant  army,  in  1759,  and  ascended  to  the 
Plains  of  Abraham,  where  he  fell  a  victim  to  his  heroic  ( nter- 
prise.  But  he  fell  not  alone.  France  mourned  an  equal  loss 
in  the  fall  of  the  brave  and  generous  Montcalm. 

As  the  steamer  approaches  the  wharf,  the  lino  of  shipping, 
extending  usually  for  two  or  three  miles,  gives  life  and  intoreb't 
to  the  scene  below — while  tlie  towering  citadel  above  produces 
emotions  of  wonder  and  delight.  The  city,  or  Lower  Town, 
only  as  yet  partly  seen,  soon  opens  to  view,  hugging  the  Lase 
•f  the  rocky  promontory. 


QUEBEC. 

Thk  City  of  QuKBKC,  a  seaport,  and  most  important  naval 
and  military  depot,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  St. 
Lawrence,  at  the  point  where  it  is  joined  ])y  the  St.  Charles, 
170  miles  below  Montreal,  and  about  400  miles  from  the  Gulf, 
in  N.  lat.  40°  49'  12",  W.  long.  71°  15'  45".  Population  in  1831, 
25,910;  in  1844,  32.870;  in  1.S52,  42,000,  and  in  1861,  con- 
tained 51,101),  of  which  about  2,000  arc  soldiers. 

As  a  fortress,  Quebec  may  be  justly  ranked  in  the  first  class. 

Words  can  hardly  express  the  strength  of  its  position  without 

the  aid  of  technical  terms.       The  citadel,  the  Gibraltar  of 

s 

America,  is  approached  by  a  zigzag  pathway,  with  thirty-two 
pounders  staring  you  in  the  face  at  every  turn.  When  inside 
tlie  fortress,  it  looks  like  a  world  of  itself.  The  officers'  barrack 
is  a  fine  building,  overlooking  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  soldiers 
quarters  are  under  the  ramparts.  The  armories,  magazines, 
and  warlike  implements  are  immense.  The  military  authori- 
ties are  energetically  at  work  putting  the  fortifications  of  Que- 
bec into  repair.  The  Quebec  Mercury^  of  a  late  date,  says : 
*'  There  is  hardly  a  point  at  which  the  fortifications  are  rot 
being  repaired  or  improved.  A  new  and  very  strong  block- 
house is  making  below  the  flag- staff,  and  very  extensive  works. 


238  QUEBEC. 

of  by  no  means  ancient  construction,  above  that  point,  have 
been  condenuiod,  and  are  now  rebuilding  in  a  more  formidable 
manner,  near  where  a  new  battery  and  draw-bridgo  outlet 
from  the  citadel  liave  lately  been  constructed,  communicating 
"With  the  city  over  the  northeastern  glacis." 

•'The  city  is  built  on  the  extremity  of  a  ridge  terminating  in 
the  angle  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers  on  the 
point  called  Cape  Diamond,  which  hero  rises  to  the  height 
of  about  o40  feet  above  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  capo  is  sur- 
mounted by  the  citadel,  and  the  city  extends  from  it  principally 
in  a  N.E.  direction,  down  to  the  waters  edge.  Tlie  old  rown, 
which  lies  wholly  without  the  walls,  partly  at  the  foot  of  Cape 
Diamond,  and  around  to  the  St.  Charles,  has  narrow  and,  in 
parts,  steep  streets.  The  ascent  from  the  upper  to  the  lower 
portion  of  the  city  which  crosses  the  line  of  the  fortifications  is 
by  a  winding-  street  and  by  a  flight  of  steps;  the  streets  in  this 
section,  thon,']jh  narrow,  are  generally  clean,  and  well  paved 
or  macadamized.  The  public  buildings  and  most  of  the  houses 
are  built  of  stone.  The  line  of  the  fortifications  stretches  nearly 
across  the  peninsula  in  tho  west,  and  runs  along  a  ridge  between 
the  upper  and  lower  parts  of  the  city.  It  is  intersected  by 
five  gates,  and  has  an  inner  circuit  of  about  2.]  miles.  Beyond 
the  ramparts  on  the  west  are  the  extensive  suburbs  of  St.  Roch, 
St.  John,  and  St.  Louis.  Durham  Terrace  connnands  a  pictur- 
esque view,  having  the  lower  part  of  the  city  in  tlie  foreground; 
and  the  shores  and  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  extending  far  in 
the  distance.  The  Public  Garden,  on  Des  Carrieres  Street,  con- 
tains an  elegant  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and 
Montcalm.  It  is  65  feet  high,  and  its  design  is  very  chaste  and 
beautiful.  This  spot  attracts  great  attention,  and  should  be 
visited  by  every  stranger.  The  Esplanade,  railed  oif  from,  and 
situated  betweene  D'Auteuil  Street  and  the  ramparts,  affords 
delightful  views  of  the  surrounding  country  and  river  scenery. 

'•  'i'liere  are  174  streets  in  the  city  and  suburbs,  the  principal 
of  which  are  the  following  :  St.  John  Street,  the  principal  seat 
of  the  retail  trade;  St.  Louis  Street,  occupied  by  lawyers' 
offices  and  private  dwellings,  is  handsome  and  well-built; 
D'Auteuil  Street,  facing  the  Esplanade  in  the  upper  town,  and 
in  the  lower  town,  St.  Peter  Street,  in  which  most  of  the  banks, 
insurance  companies,  and  merchants'  offices  are  situated. 
There  are  also  many  other  fine  streets,  and  the  appearance  of 
the  city  has  been  much  improved  since  the  great  fire  of  1845 
when  nearly  2,000  buildings  were  destroyed,  which  have  been 
replaced  by  others  of  a  superior  description.  The  streets  are 
lighted  with  gas,  and  the  city  is  well  supplied  with  water  from 


QUEBEO.  2*^0 

the  St.  Charles  River.  The  Parliament  House  (destroyed  hy 
fire  185!])  was  an  elegant  pile  of  buildings,  forming  three  sides 
of  a  square,  now  about  being  rebuilt  in  a  mucli  improved  style. 
The  Court  House  and  City  llall  are  substantial  stone  edifices, 
St.  Louis  Street,  upper  town.  The  Marine  Hospital,  a  fine  stone 
building,  will  accommodate  400  patients.  The  Lunatic  Asylum 
at  Beaupurt,  2h  miles  from  the  city,  is  an  extensive  building, 
inclosed  in  a  park  of  200  acres.  The  Quebec  Musical  Hall, 
recently  erected,  is  a  substantial  and  well-built  edifice,  fitted 
for  musical  entertainments,  etc.  The  Quebec  Exclmnge,  the 
Canadian  Institute,  the  Literary  and  Historical  Society,  the 
Quebec  Library  Association,  the  Advocates'  Library,  etc.,  are 
among  the  most  noted  and  interesting  institutions  of  Quebec. 

"The  llomrtn  Catholic  Cathedral  is  a  large  and  commodious 
building,  but  with  no  great  pretensions  to  beauty  of  architec- 
ture ;  the  interior  is  handsomely  fitted  up,  and  has  several  fine 
paintings ;  the  church  will  seat  4,000  persons.  It  has  a  fine 
choir  and  a  good  organ.  The  Episcopal  Cathedral  is  a  han(' 
some  edifice.  135  feet  by  75  feet.  It  was  erected  in  1804,  and 
will  seat  between  3,000  and  4,000  persons.  Trinity  Church  is 
a  neat  stone  building,  erected  in  1824 ;  it  is  hand.somaly  fitted 
up.  St  Andrew,  Presbyterian  Church,  is  05  by  48  feet,  and 
will  accommo;late  about  1,200  persons.  Tliere  were,  in  1852, 
one  Baptist,  one  Congregational,  four  Episcopal,  one  Free  Pres- 
oyterian,  two  Methodist,  one  Presbyterian,  and  five  Uoman 
Catholic  churciies.  Quebec  has  three  banks,  and  several  bank 
agencies,  two  savings'  banks,  and  a  number  of  insurance  agen- 
cies. The  hotels  are  numerous,  and  several  of  them  well-kept, 
being  usually  thronged  with  visitors  from  the  United  States 
and  foreign  parts  during  warm  weather. 

"There  are  three  nunneries,  one  of  which,  the  Hotel  Dieu,  is 
a  very  valuable  hospital ;  the  nuns  acting  as  nurses  to  the  sick 
in  these  establishments,  and  as  ins :ruc tresses  of  young  females. 
There  are  numerous  reli  'ous  and  benevolent  institutions,  an 
exchange,  a  board  of  trade,  a  mechanics'  institute,  etc.  Among 
the  establishments  for  educational  purposes,  the  first  place  is 
due  to  th?  University  of  Quebec ;  it  has  a  principal,  and  profes- 
sors of  theology,  rhetoric,  and  mathematics,  with  five  regents  for 
the  Latin  and  Greek  classes. 

"  Though  not  a  manufacturing  town,  Quebec  has  various 
distilleries,  breweries,  with  tobacco,  soap  and  candle  works,  and 
numbers  of  fine  vessels  have  been  launched  from  its  ship-yards. 
The  climate,  though  on  the  whole  good  and  healthy,  is  ex- 
tremely hot  in  summer  and  cold  in  winter.  The  majority  of 
the  population  is  of  French  extraction,  and  the  French  lan- 
guage is  mostly  spoken  in  the  best  circles,  and  the  Komao 
Catholic  religion  predominates." 


1^40  QUKBRC. 

Steamships  and  other  sea-going  vessels  of  the  largest  burden 
come  up  to  the  wliarves  of  Quebec.  Its  harbor  or  basin  between 
the  city  and  the  island  of  Orle.inH  is  of  great  extent,  having  in 
general  about  28  fathoms  water,  the  tide  rising  from  16  to  18 
feet  at  neaps,  and  from  24  to  30  feet  at  spring  tides.  The  com- 
merce of  the  city  is  very  extensive,  the  lumber  trade  alone 
giving  employment  to  a  great  number  of  ships  during  the  sea- 
son of  navigation,  from  May  to  November.  Quebec  has  a  regu- 
lar intercourse,  by  meirns  of  steamers,  witli  Montreal  and  porta 
hJglicr  up  the  St.  Lawrence  and  tiie  Ottawa  Kiver;  also  with 
Halifax,  Liverpool,  and  other  ports  on  both  sides  the  Atlantic. 

The  Grand  Tnwk  Railuuiy  is  now  so  far  finished  as  to 
afford  speedy  communication  witli  tin;  liivierc  du  Loup,  below 
Qu«;])cc,  with  Portland,  Me.,  Montreal,  Kingston.  Toronto,  etc., 
Its  pa.^songer  and  freight  depots  are  situated  at  Point  Levi, 
opposite  Quebec,  the  two  places  being  conneoted  by  steam  ferries. 
Steamers  also  run  to  different  ports  below  Quebec,  and  during 
warm  weather  make  trips  to  the  lower  St.  Lawrence  and  Sague- 
nay  rivers. 

The  following  description  of  the  city  of  Quebec  is  taken  from 
Mr.  Buckingham's  late  interesting  work  on  Caivada,  etc. : 

"  The  situation  of  Quebec  is  highly  advantageous,  in  a  com- 
mercial as  well  as  a  military  point  of  vicAV,  and  its  appearance 
is  very  imposing,  from  whatever  quarter  it  is  first  approached. 
Though  at  a  distance  of  four  hundred  miles  up  from  the  sea,  the 
magnificent  river  on  which  it  is  seated  is  three  miles  in  breadth 
a  little  below  the  tcAvn,  and  narrows  in  to  about  a  mile  in 
breadth  immediately  abreast  of  the  citfidel ;  having,  in  both 
these  parts,  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  the  largest  sliips  in  the 
worM— a  rise  and  fall  of  twenty  feet  in  its  tides — and  space 
enou'1-h  in  its  capacious  basin,  between  Cape  Diam<md  on  the 
one  hand,  and  the  Isle  of  Orlejins  on  the  other,  to  afford  room 
and  anchorage  for  a  thousand  sail  of  vessels  at  a  time,  sheltered 
from  all  winds,  and  perfectly  secure !  A  small  river,  the  St. 
Charles,  has  its  junction  Avitii  the  St  Lawrence  a  little  to  the 
north  of  the  promontory  of  Cape  Diamond,  and  affords  a  favor- 
able spot  for  ship-building  and  repairs,  as  well  as  an  excellent 
winter-harbor  for  ships  lying  up  dismantled. 

"  The  citadel  of  Quebec  occupies  the  highest  point  of  Cape 
Diamond,  being  elevated  350  leet  above  the  river,  and  present- 


QITRDRO.  241 

In^  nlmrvsf  pRrponflicnlar  cllirs  toward  tho  wator.  The  city  is 
bti  It  ti-  .1  tho  wiiter'8  o'lgo  ah^ng  tho  foot  of  tli"s:?  cliffs,  round 
til  1  po'u;  1)1"  the  pronmn'ory,  aii'l  ascen  liii^r  upwiivil  from  thonco 
to  tiio  \^\y  bo^'dfi-.s  of  tho  ei!:ailel  itnolf.  It  in  ilividod  into  the 
Lower  !in  I  Uppor  Town,  tho  I'ornior  includiiijj;  all  that  is  below 
tho  r.'iiiiparts  or  fortified  liu.ts,  tho  latter  coinprohcndiiig  all  that 
is  above  and  v/ithin  that  b;irrier.  Besides  those,  there  is  a  lafj'v 
Biiburh,  S'^parated  from  Qu;iliOC  proper  by  the  ramparts,  ai  \ 
Bomc  open  lawn  beyond  th'^se  on  the  west,  called  tho  subiirl)  of 
Hi.  Koch,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  St.  diaries,  the  only 
portion  of  tho  whole  that  is  built  on  level  ground. 

"On  landing  at  Quebec,  therefore,  the  traveler  has  to  wind 
his  way  up  through  steep,  narrow,  and  tortuous  streets,  with 
still  narrower  alleys  on  his  right  and  left,  till  he  rea<-!lieH  the 
fovlifiod  lino  or  barrier.  Here  he  enters  by  Prescott  (Jate,  on 
th'^  right  of  whi'di,  after  passing  through  it,  he  sees  tho  inifios- 
ing  structure  of  the  New  l*arliament  House  (since  destroye(i  l>y 
fire),  with  its  lofiy  cupola  and  line  architectural  front;  and  on 
the  left,  a  double  flight  of  mean  and  straggling  wooden  st"ps, 
leading  to  one  of  the  oldest  streets,  as  an  avenue  to  the  Place 
d' Amies.  Going  across  this  last,  he  passes  the  English  and 
French  cathedrals,  the  government  oflices,  and  p;ilace  of  justice 
oil  his  right ;  and  has  t!ie  site  of  tlie  old  castle  of  St.  Lewis,  and 
the  pllttform  overlooking  the  harbor,  on  his  left  Passing  by 
thos-c,  and  continually  ascending  for  about  half  a  mile  beyond, 
he  roaches  the  ramparts  and  gates  on  the  upper  side  of  the  city  ; 
and  going  through  these,  he  comes  to  the  open  lawn  in  front  of 
the  glacis,  beyond  which  is  the  suburb  of  St.  Roch,  on  the  level 
ground  along  the  southern  bank  of  the  St.  Charles  lliver. 

"  'i'he  plan  of  the  city  is  as  irregular  as  the  greatest  enemy 
of  symmetry  could  desire.  Tho  steepness  of  the  ascent  from  the 
river  to  the  plain  above  is  no  doubt  one  cause  of  this,  because 
it  was  only  by  making  the  ascending  streets  winding  and  tor 
tuous  that  they  could  be  got  over  at  all ;  but  besides  this,  the 
inequalities  in  the  surface  even  of  the  Upper  Town  led  to  other 
irregularities  in  the  form  and  direction  of  the  streets;  while  the 
large  space  occupied  by  the  old  religious  establishments,  still 
further  curtailing  the  lines  in  different  directions,  so  cut  up 
the  area,  that  there  is  not  a  single  street  in  all  Quebec  which 
can  compare  in  length,  breadth,  or  general  f;ood  appearance  to 
the  King  Street  of  Toronto  or  the  Notre  Dame  of  Montreal. 
The  streets  of  Quebec  are,  therefore,  in  general  short,  narrow, 
crooked,  !<teep,  wretchedly  paved  in  the  center,  still  worse  pro 
vided  Avith  sidewalks,  and  not  lighted  with  lamps  at  night  The 
private  dwellings  are  in  general  destitute  of  architectural 
beauty,  and  small  and  incommodious ;  some  few  are  of  wood, 
none  of  brick,  but  the  greatest  number  are  of  rough-hewa 


243  QUEDEO. 

Btone,  with  hit^h,  fitoop  roofa,  containing;  a  double  row  of  pro- 
jecting f;;arret  windows,  very  lofty  chiinneyM,  and  the  roofs 
principally  coveretl  with  Mheets  of  tin  Tho  shops  aro  also 
email  and  mean,  and  greatly  inferior  in  the  exten|,  and  vari(!ty 
of  their  contents  to  those  of  Montreal  and  Toronto;  thougii  the 
prices  charged  aro,  as  we  thought,  higher  hero  than  in  either 
of  these. 

•'  The  public  buildings  are  scattered  over  the  city  with  so 
much  irrep;ularity,  that  their  position  seems  to  bo  as  much  the 
effect  of  accident  as  design.  Several  of  them,  however,  are  so 
prominently  placed  and  advantageously  seen,  that  they  relieve, 
in  some  degree,  the  general  monotony  of  the  mass  of  ordinary 
houses,  and  aro  thus  fur  ornamental  to  the  town;  while  the 
spires  of  the  churches,  the  dome  of  the  Parliament  House,  and 
other  elevated  points  rising  from  the  general  surface,  with  their 
tinned  roofs  glittering  in  the  sun,  give  a  liveliness  and  variety 
to  the  picture  presented  by  the  city,  from  every  point  of  view, 
■which  no  other  place  in  Canada,  and  indeed  few  places  on  the 
globe,  present. 

"  The  earliest  of  the  public  buildings  erected  in  Quebec  was 
undoubie  lly  the  castle  of  St.  Lewis,  of  which  C'hamplain  laid 
the  louiulation  on  the  ()th  of  May,  1(5*24.  The  position  chosen 
for  it  was  a  most  commanding  one,  on  the  very  edge  of  an  al- 
most pLMpi'ndifular  pretii>ice  of  rock  200  feet  above  the  river, 
yet  close  to  its  edge;  as,  between  the  cliif  and  the  stream, 
there  is  only  jast  room  enough  for  one  narrow  avenue,  called 
Champlain  Stroet.  The  castle  erected  here  was  regarded  as  the 
palace  of  the  French  governors,  who  received  in  it  the  fealty 
and  homage  of  the  .several  seigneurs  holding  their  lands  accord- 
ing to  the  feudul  tenure  of  the  times.  Nor  is  this  practice  dis- 
continued ;  for,  according  to  Mr.  Hawkins,  in  his  Picture  of 
Quebec,  the  sovereignty  of  England  having  succeeded  to  that 
of  France,  with  all  its  ancient  rights  and  privileges,  the  king's 
representative,  in  the  person  of  the  English  governor,  receives 
the  same  homage  at  the  present  day  as  was  paid  by  the  seig- 
neurs of  former  times ;  this  being  one  of  the  conditions  en  which 
the  feudal  tenure  is  sustained.     His  words  are  these : 

"  '  Fealty  and  homage  are  rendered  at  this  day  (1834)  by  the 
seigneurs  to  the  governor,  as  the  representative  of  the  sovereign, 
in  the  following  form :  His  Excellency  being  in  full  dress,  and 
seated  in  a  state-chair,  surrounded  by  his  staff,  and  a'^cnded 
by  the  Attorney-General,  the  Seigneur  in  an  evening  dress,  and 
wearing  a  sword,  is  introduced  into  his  presence  by  the  Inspec* 
tor-General  of  the  Royal  Doffain  and  Clerk  of  the  Land  KolL 
Having  delivered  up  his  sword,  he  kneels  on  one  knee  before  the 
Governor,  and  placing  his  rig  at  hand  between  those  of  the 
Governor,  he  repeats  aloud  tbo  ancient  oath  of  fidelity ;  after 


QUEnsc.  243 

wliioli  a  solemn  act  is  drawn  »ip  in  a  rcj^lster  kopt  for  tli.it  pur- 
pos-',  wliicli  is  signed  by  the  (loveruor  and  iSeigiiuur,  and  coun- 
tci'ii^no  I  by  the  proper  oflictM  s.' 

*'  la  this  ca»tlo  the  Frencli  and  Kni^lish  governors  resided 
till  llSiiU,  when  it  was  found  necessary  to  erect  a  temporary 
De\v  building  for  their  use  wiiile  the  old  one  un(h;rwent  repair; 
and  X  10,000  wore  expanded  for  this  purpose  under  the  admin- 
ibtrr.tion  of  Sir  James  Craig.  After  this  it  continued  to  be  tho 
Beat  of  government  as  before;  and  all  the  proclamations  and 
ordinimces  issued,  and  all  the  messages  sent  to  tho  legishitivo 
asdcmblies  by  the  governor  in  the  king's  name,  were  d:ited  fi'oiu 
tho  castle  of  Quebec.  It  was  also  the  scene  of  all  tho  public 
levees  and  private  entertainments  of  the  govoiuors  Mud  their 
families;  an<l  was  therefore  tho  constant  resort  of  all  the  gay 
and  fashionable  society  of  the  province.  In  18:M,  however,  this 
ancient  edifice  was  entirely  destroyed  by  a  lire,  which  broke  out 
on  the  28d  of  January,  in  tho  depth  of  winter,  when  Lord  Ayl- 
mer  occupied  it  as  his  oHicial  residence;  and  notwithsttinding 
every  exertion  made  to  save  it,  the  thermometer  being  at  '21-^ 
below  zero,  and  the  fire-engines  only  capable  of  being  worked 
by  a  constant  supply  of  warm  water,  the  castle  was  soon  re- 
duced to  ashes.  It  has  never  since  been  rebuilt;  but  Lord 
Durham,  during  his  short  stay  here,  had  the  site  cleared  of  the 
ruined  heaps  that  still  covered  it,  and  tho  whole  aroii  of  tho 
former  edifice  leveled,  iloored  with  wood,  and  cuuvorted  into  a 
beautiful  platform,  with  a  fine  iron  railing  at  the  edge  of  tho 
precipice,  making  it  one  of  the  most  beautiful  promenades  imag- 
inable— commaniling  an  extensive  view  of  the  St.  liawrenco 
down  as  far  as  the  island  of  Orleans— the  harbor  filled  with 
ships  immediately  before  it,  ajid  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river, 
with  l\)int  Levi,  the  village  of  D'Aubigny,  and  the  road  leading 
up  through  one  continuous  lino  of  cottages  to  the  Falls  of 
Chaudiore. 

"  Tiie  site  on  which  the  Parliament  House  stood  is  of  even 
earlier  date  than  that  of  tho  castle  of  St.  Lewis ;  there  being 
good  reason  to  believe  that  it  occupied  the  first  spot  of  ground 
which  was  cleared  by  Charaplain  for  his  fort,  on  founding  tho 
city  in  1608.  Here,  too,  as  at  the  castle,  the  site  stands  on  a 
mass  of  rock  made  level  by  art,  and  extending  to  the  brink  of  a 
perpendicular  precipice,  of  about  100  feet  above  the  river,  the 
narrowest  part  of  which  is  commanded  by  its  guns.  Along  the 
edge  of  this  precipice,  beyond  the  area  occupied  by  the  lato 
Parliament  House,  still  runs  the  Grand  Battery  of  Quebec,  the 
promenade  on  which,  and  tho  view  from  its  platform,  is  scarcely 
inferior  to  that  already  described  on  the  site  of  the  old  casti« 
of  St.  Lewis." 


244  QUEBEC. 

Plains  of  Abraham. — This  celebrated  battle-fielrl  lias  a 
Bhort  distance  southwest  of  the  citadel.  A  /iionumont  ia  here 
erected  on  the  spot  where  Gen.  Wolfe  is  said  to  have  died,  with 
this  simple  inscription:  '■'■  HcrcffU  Wolfe  victorious.'"  A  beau- 
tiful monument  is  also  erected,  of  I'ecent  date,  to  the  mcmoriea 
of  both  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  within  the  city  walls,  with  lliis 
inscription  :  "  Immortal  memory  of  Wolfe  and  JloJitcalm." 

WOLFE'S  MONUMENT-QUEBEC. 

"  HERE  FETX  WOLFE  VICTORIOUS." 


A  broken  column  !  few  and  brief 

The  woi\i8  inseribcd  upon  its  stone 
Yet  apcaivs  it  of  tiie  dying  cUitif. 

Triuinpliant  tales  alone ! 

It  tells  unfadin/?  glory  shed 

Upon  the  hero's  parting  hour ; 
Dying  beside  the  host  ho  lf;d, 

To  victory  and  to  power ! 

The  trumpet's  tone,  the  battle  shout, 

All  sounds  ortriuni|)h  come  again, 
As  shines  the  brief  inscription  out, 

Upon  the  storied  plain. 

The  clashing  sword,  the  cannon's  roar, 

The  beating  of  the  wild  war  drum  ; 
And  the  last  shout,  "  Tiiey  fly !"  once  moT9 

On  fancy's  vision  come. 

And  marching  round  the  hero's  bed. 

With  banners  floating  free  and  fair 
Are  seen  the  host  he  nobly  led 

For  England's  glory  there. 

But  years  have  passed,  and  silence  reign* 
Where  once  was  heard  the  battle  cheer; 

Of  all  the  trophies  naught  remains — 
This,  only  this,  is  here. 

A  broken  column !  brief,  yet  high 

Tiie  eulogy  its  words  convey ; 
Thus  in  the  triumph  hour  to  die, 

Breathes  not  of  earth's  decay. 

Wolfe  fell  in  the  moment  of  victory,  and  Montcalm,  who  was 
mortally  wounded  in  the  action,  expired  soon  after.  The 
French,  panic-struck  by  the  loss  of  the  battle  and  the  death 
of  their  commander-in-chief,  surrendered  the  city  before  even 
a  single  battery  had  been  opened  against  it.  This  important 
event,  which  trasusferred  the  possession  of  Canada  from  the 
French  to  the  English  nation,  occui'ied  on  the  13th  Sept.,  1759 


Q.UBBKC.  245 

The  following  is  an  English  account  of  the  attack  on  Quebeo 
by  Montgomery  and  Arnold,  in  1776  and  1776  : 

"  At  the  period  of  the  American  Revolution,  it  is  well  known 
that  Canada  dil  not  join  the  revolted  colonies,  but  continued 
firm  in  her  allegiance  to  the  Crown ;  and  hence  it  became  the 
land  of  refuge  to  the  many  loyalists  who  were  driven  from  the 
United  States  by  the  success  of  their  war  of  Independence.  As 
it  was  believed,  however,  by  the  Americans  of  that  day,  that  an 
attack  on  Quebec  would  be  successful,  and  if  so,  would  induce 
all  Canada  to  join  their  cause,  such  an  attack  was  planned,  and 
its  execution  committed  to  two  American  generals,  Montgomery 
and  Arnold.  The  British  troops  usually  retained  in  Canada  for 
its  defense  had  been  sent  on  to  Boston,  so  that  the  province  was 
almost  destitute  of  military  force,  there  being  scattered  through- 
out all  Canada  only  about  800  men.  In  this  state  of  things 
Gen.  Montgomery  advanced  from  Lake  Champlain  on  St.  John's, 
and  after  a  short  resistance  took  it ;  he  then  raarclied  on  against 
Montreal,  which  being  perfectly  defenseless,  surrendered  to  the 
American  arms  on  the  12th  of  November,  1775.  At  the  same 
time  Gen.  Arnold  was  known  to  Montgomery  to  be  advancing 
toward  Quebec,  from  the  New  England  States,  by  way  of  the 
Kennebec  laver  through  Maine,  which  at  this  late  period  of  the 
year  was  a  most  daring  undertaking.  After  passing  thirty-two 
days  in  the  wild  forests  and  swamps,  and  suifering  almost  in- 
credible hardships  and  privations  in  this  hitherto  untrodden 
wilderness,  Arnold  and  his  followers  reached  the  banks  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  by  the  Chaudicre  River,  on  the  4th  of  November, 
in  the  same  year.  From  thence  they  descended  to  Point  Levi, 
opposite  to  Quebec,  where  they  arrived  on  the  9th,  crossed  over 
on  the  night  of  the  18th,  and  landed  500  men  at  Wolfe's  Cove 
without  being  perceived  either  by  the  sentries  or  from  the  sliips 
of  war. 

"On  the  1st  of  December  this  force  was  joined  by  a  much 
larger  one  under  General  Montgomery,  from  Montreal.  By 
these  two  the  city  was  invested,  and  several  bombardments  of 
it  made  with  shot  and  siiells.  but  without  producing  much 
effect.  A  night  attack  was  at  length  determined  on  by  Mont- 
gomery on  the  southern,  M|d  Arnold  on  the  northern,  side  of 
the  Lower  Town.  Both  macks  were  made  with  great  courage 
and  impetuosity,  but  both  failed.  In  tlie  former.  Gen.  Mont- 
gomery and  nearly  all  his  personal  staff  were  killed ;  in  the 
latter.  Gen.  Arnold  was  wounded,  and  with  most  of  his  follow- 
ers taken  prisoners.  The  loss  of  the  Americans  in  these  attacks 
was  up.ward  of  100  killed  and  wounded,  and  of  the  British, 
only  one  naval  officer  killed,  and  seventeen  men  killed  and 
wounded.    The  Americans  did  not,  however,  give  up  tlie  attempt 


246  QUEBEO. 

to  reduce  Quebec ;  as,  during  all  the  winter  folloTfing  they  con- 
tinued to  receive  reinforcements,  and  to  invest  the  town ;  and 
in  the  spring  of  the  year  ensuing.  May,  1776,  they  renewed 
their  attack  on  the  citadel.  Gen.  Carleton,  the  English  com- 
mander of  the  garrison,  having  received  an  important  accession 
to  his  force  by  the  arrival  of  a  small  squadron  under  the  com- 
mand of  Sir  Charles  Douglas,  bringing  to  his  aid  provisions, 
ammunition,  and  men,  was  enabled  to  baffle  every  attempt  made 
on  the  city,  and  ultimately  to  make  a  sally  on  the  enemv,  when 
they  retreated,  and  abandoned  their  post. 

*'  This  was  the  last  attack  made  on  Quebec  by  any  foreign 
foe,  and  as  since  that  period  the  citadel  has  been  gradually 
strengthened  and  improved,  under  every  successive  governor  of 
tlie  province,  it  is  now  in  a  condition  to  resist  ten  times  the  force 
ever  yet  brought  against  it,  and  could  not,  so  long  as  it  con- 
tained supplies  of  provisions,  and  an  adequate  number  of  brave 
and  faithful  men,  be  conquered  by  any  force  likely  to  be  brought 
against  it  from  this  continent." 

General  Montgomery. — A  tablet  has  been  placed  on  the 
rock  of  Cape  Diamond,  near  the  spot  where  General  Montgomery 
fell,  with  his  two  aids-de-camp,  Majors  McPherson  and  Cheese- 
man,  at  Pres-de-ville,  in  the  attack  upon  Quebec  by  the  Amer- 
ican forces,  in  the  winter  of  1775-6. 

The  tablet  is  raised  about  fifty  feet  from  the  road,  and  bears 
the  following  inscription : 

HERE 

MAJOR-GENERAL  MONTGOMERY  FELL, 

DECEMBER    31ST,  1775. 

"  It  has  long  been  a  matter  of  surprise  to  our  neighbors  of 
the  United  States,  who,  during  the  summer  months,  pour  in  a 
continual  stream  of  visitors  to  our  celebrated  city,  that  no  clue 
could  be  found  by  them  to  indicate  the  spot  where  Montgomery 
fell.  The  event  must  ever  remain  memorable  in  our  colonial 
history  as  terminating  the  last  hosall  struggle  before  the  city 
of  Quebec. 

"  Quebec  is  much  indebted  to  the  late  Mr.  Hawkins  for  the 
labor  he  has  bestowed  in  bringing  before  the  public  the  various 
historical  reminiscences  connected  with  the  city,  and  this  tab- 
let, erected  by  him,  is  a  fresh  proof  of  the  interest  he  takes  in 
perpetuating  the  recollection  of  every  incident  connectetl  with 
the  many  warlike  and  memorable  events  illuming  the  annals 
of  our  American  Gibraltar."     See  Hawkins*  Quebec. 


VICINITY    OF    QUEBEC.  247 

VICnTITY  OF  QUEBEC. 

QirEBEC,  the  Ultima  Thule  of  most  travelers,  standa  not 
alone  in  regard  to  attractions  of  interest.  In  the  Vicinity, 
within  a  few  hours'  ride,  are  located  waterfalls  and  variod 
scenery  of  the  most  romantic  character,  while  the  banks  of  the 
Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  rivers  stand  unrivaled  in 
Boeuic  grandeur 

EXCURSION    TO    CAPE    ROUGE. 

On  this  excursion  you  leave  the  city  by  the  St.  Lewis  Gate, 
and  cross  the  Plains  of  Abraham  to  the  right  of  the  spot  where 
Wolfe  fell.  A  mile  from  the  gate  is  the  Race  Course,  which  is 
thronged  during  the  spring  and  fall  races ;  and  a  mile  farther, 
a  road  branching  to  the  left  leads  to  Wolfe^s  Cove,  celebrated 
as  the  place  where  he  landed  with  his  army  previous  to  the 
capture  of  Quebec,  but  now  occupied  by  an  extensive  ship-yard 
and  luml)er-yard.  The  road  beyond  runs  for  some  distance 
through  a  fine  grove,  with  avenues  leading  to  various  pleasjint 
country  residences  overlooking  the  river,  of  which  you  catch  as 
you  pass  along  occasional  glimpses,  together  with  the  opposite 
Bhore  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Chaudiere  Falls. 

Returning  by  the  St.  Foi  road,  and  facing  toward  the  city, 
the  prospect  is  far  wider  and  more  magnificent.  Below  and  to 
the  left  stretches  the  fine  cultivated  valley  of  the  St.  Charles, 
bounded  on  the  northwest  by  a  picturesque  range  of  mountains, 
the  settlements  reaching  to  their  very  base,  with  villages  and 
church  spires  scattered  over  the  intervening  region ;  in  another 
direction  appear  the  Falls  of  the  Montmorenci  and  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  and  in  front  spreads  the  harbor  of  Quebec,  with  the  bold 
cliffs  of  Cape  Diamond  and  Point  Levi  rising  perpendicularly 
on  each  side,  the  former  crowned  with  impregnable  bulwarks. 

The  Falls  of  Lorette,  8ituated>  eight  miles  northwest  of 
Quebec,  are  visited  by  many  strangers  with  delight,  though  but 
a  small  volume  of  water.  They  have  a  descent  of  about  bO  feet, 
and  are  surrounded  by  very  fine  scenery,  peculiar  to  this  section 
of  Canada. 


248  VICINITY    OF    QUEBEC. 

The  Indian  Village y  at  the  fall  is  inhabited  by  the  remainn 
of  the  once  powerful  tribe  of  the  Hurons. 

The  hills  or  mountains  on  the  northwest  of  Lorette  may  be 
Baid  to  be  the  bounds  of  white  settlements  in  North  America, 
althongh,  at  no  distant  period,  the  upper  Saguenay  River  and 
Lake  St.  John  will,  no  doubt,  be  reached  in  this  direction  by 
railroad. 

FALLS    or   MONTMORENCI. 

In  going  to  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  which  should  be  visited 
by  every  lover  of  picturesque  natui;^  scenery,  you  pass  through 
the  suburbs  of  Quebec,  mostly  inhabited  by  French  Canadians, 
and  cios«  the  river  St.  Charles,  near  its  mouth,  by  a  wooden 
toll  bridge.  Hero  are  situated  on  the  roadside  several  pretty 
country  residences,  on  the  route  to  Beauport,  which  is  a  long 
scattered  village  about  half  way  betwof^n  Quebec  and  Montmo- 
renci, although  for  most  of  the  distance  there  are  dwellings 
80  contiguous  as  to  appear  like  one  continued  setlloraent. 
At  Beauport  there  is  a  Roman  Catholic  church  with  three 
epires ;  and  a  littie  farther  north  may  be  seen  a  neat  mona- 
ment  and  cross  near  the  road,  where  are  frequently  found  per- 
sons kneeling  at  their  devotions. 

The  celebrated  Montmorenci  Falls,  situated  eight  miles 
below  Quebec,  is  a  grand  cataract.  The  river  is  but  CO  feet 
wide,  but  the  height  of  the  falls  is  240  feet.  The  effect  on  the 
beholder,  says  Professor  Silliman,  is  delightful.  All  strangers 
at  Quebec  proceed  to  visit  Montmorenci. 

"  The  effect  of  the  view  of  these  falls  on  the  beholder  is  most 
delightful.  The  river,  at  some  distance,  seems  suspended  in  the 
air,  in  a  sheet  of  billowy  foam,  and,  contrasted  as  it  is,  with 
the  black  frowning  abyss  into  which  it  falls,  it  is  an  object  of 
the  highest  interest.  The  sheet  of  foam,  which  first  breaks 
over  the  ridge,  is  more  and  more  divided  as  it  plunges  and  is 
daslied  against  the  successive  layers  of  rock,  which  it  almost 
completely  vails  from  view;  the  spray  becomes  very  delicate 
and  abundant  from  top  to  bottom,  hanging  over  and  revolving 
around  the  torrent  till  it  becomes  lighter  and  more  evanescant 
than  the  whitest  fleecy  clouds  of  summer,  than  the  finest  at- 
tenuated web,  than  the  lightest  gossamer,  constituting  the  most 
airy  and  sumptuous  drapery  that  can  be  imagined.     Yet,  lik« 


VICINITY    OF    QUEBEC.  249 

the  drapery  of  Bome  of  the  Hrecian  statues,  which,  while  it 
vails,  exhibits  more  forcibly  the  form  beneath,  this  does  Dot 
hide,  but  exalts,  the  effects  produced  by  this  noble  cataract 

"  Those  who  visit  the  falls  in  the  winter,  see  one  fine  feature 
added  to  the  scene,  although  they  may  lose  some  others.  The 
spray  freezes,  and  forms  a  regular  cone  of  one  hundred  feet  or 
upward  in  height,  standing  immediately  at  the  bottom  of  the 
cataract,  like  some  huge  giant  of  fabulous  notoriety." 

The  JS'atural  Steps,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  falls  above,  are  an 
object  of  much  interest,  and  there  are  many  excellent  fishing 
places  on  the  river,  rendering  it  a  favorite  resort  of  the  lovers 
of  angling  and  romantic  scenery.  There  are  also  historical 
incidents  connected  with  this  neighborhood,  which  render  it 
almost  classic  ground. 

There  are  extensive  saw-mills  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river 
below  the  falls,  which  are  propelled  by  water-poAver  taken  from 
the  stream  above,  and  conveyed  for  about  half  a  mile  in  a  race- 
way. These  mills  have  upward  of  a  hundred  saws  in  motion  at 
a  time,  and  are  said  to  be  capable  of  compToting  an  entire  cargo 
of  planks  in  a  single  day !  In  winter,  the  spray  rising  from  the 
falls  is  congealed,  and  often  presents  a  conical  mass  of  ice  100 
feet  and  upward  in  height.  It  was  on  the  high  grounds  north 
of  the  falls  that  Gen,  Wolfe  met  his  first  repulse,  when  he  at- 
tacked the  French,  a  short  time  before  his  triumph  on  the  Plains 
of  Abraham.  He  was  here  driven  back,  and  compelled  to  re- 
embark,  with  the  loss  of  700  engaged  in  the  assault. 

On  returning  to  Quebec  there  is  afforded  a  splendid  view  of 
the  city  and  citadel ;  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  opposite  shore 
above  and  below  Point  Levi ;  the  beautiful  island  of  Orleans, 
opposite  the  falls,  and  the  rich  valley  of  the  St.  Charles. 

The  Falls  of  St.  Anne  are  situated  on  the  river  of  the 
eame  name,  on  the  north  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  24  miles  be- 
low Quebec,  and  presents  a  singular  variety  of  wild  and  beauti- 
ful scenery,  both  in  themselves  and  their  immediate  neighbor- 
hood. By  leaving  Quebec  early  in  the  day,  the  tourist  can 
visit  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  and  the  objects  contiguous,  and 
roftch  St.  Anne  the  same  evening,  leaving  the  next  morning  to 
visit  the  falls,  and  the  remainder  of  the  day  to  return  to  Quebec 


250  VICINITY    OF    QUEBEC. 

Lake  St.  Charles,  13  miles  north  of  Quebec,  is  a  favorite 
resort  of  tourists,  particularly  of  those  who  are  foml  of  angling, 
as  the  lake  abounds  with  fine  trout.  1  >  ties  intending  to  re- 
main any  length  of  time  would  do  well  to  bring  some  of  the  ' 
good  things  to  be  found  in  the  larders  of  Quebec  with  them,  as 
it  is  not  at  all  times  that  the  supplies  in  the  vicinity  are  all 
that  can  be  desired. 

The  Chaudiere  Falls,  on  the  river  Chaudicre,  nine  miles 

above  Quebec,  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 

are  very  beautiful,  and  much  visited.     They  are  130  feet  high 

The  cataract  is  a  fierce  and  noisy  one.    The  following  is  Col. 

Bouchette's  description : 

"  The  continued  action  of  the  water  has  worn  the  rock  into 
deep  excavations,  that  give  a  globular  figure  to  the  revolving 
bodies  of  wliite  foam  as  they  descend,  and  greatly  increase  the 
beautiful  etfect  of  the  fall ;  the  spray  thrown  up  being  quickly 
spread  by  the  wind,  produces  in  the  sunshine  a  most  splendid 
variety  of  prismatic  colors.  The  dark-hued  foliage  of  the  woods, 
that  on  each  side  press  close  upon  the  margin  of  the  river,  forma 
a  striking  contrast  with  the  snow-like  effulgence  of  the  falling 
torrent;  the  hurried  motion  of  the  flood,  agitated  among  the 
rocks  and  hollows,  as  it  forces  its  way  toward  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  the  incessant  sound  occasioned  by  the  cataract  itself,  form 
a  combination  that  strikes  forcibly  upon  the  senses,  and  amply 
gratifies  the  curiosity  of  the  admiring  spectator." 

On  visiting  the  above  falls,  the  tourist  crosses  the  river  to 

Point  Levi,  and  then  obtains  a  conveyance  for  the  excursion, 

passing  up  the  St.  Lawrence  for  a  few  miles. 


DISTANCES  FROM  QUEBEC  TO  KAKOUNA,  CHICOUTIMI,  EXa 

QUEBEC  to  Gbosse-Isle 30 

"          Sr.  Thomas 10-40 

•*           River  Quelle 32-72 

"          Murray  Bay 12-84 

**           k  amour  aska 6-90 

"          Riviere  du  Loup 20-110 

"          Kakouna 10-120 

"           Tadousac IHO 

«          H A-H A  Bay 64-1 84 

♦♦          CHICOUTIMI 16-200 


TABLE    OF    DISTANCES. 


251 


TABLE  OP  DISTANCES  BETWEEN  QTTEBEO  AND  KINGSTON 
via  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 

From 
l'la(>M.  Miles.    Kiii({«tun. 

KINGSTON 0  0 

22 


Piom 
Dorpd.  Mlli;«.    QuflMT, 

0 


■^1    w      ..M-.^^ 

Riclielieu  Rapids. . . 

.45 

45 

Threk  Rivers 

.35 

80 

Lake  St.  Peter 

.30 

110 

William  Henry.  . 

.15 

125 

MONTREAL 

.45 

170 

La  Chine,  via  Canal 

.  9 

179 

Beauharnois 

.18 

197 

Cascade  Rapids 

.   1 

198 

Split  Rock  "     

.  3 

201 

Cedar          "     

.  2 

203 

Coteau  du  Lac 

.  5 

208 

Lancaster 

.16 

224 

St.  Regis 

.13 

7 

(N.  Y.  State  Line.) 

1 

Cornwall 

.  3 

240 

(Long  Saut  Rapid.) 

Dickinson's  Landing 

.10 

250 

Favren's  iPoint 

.  4 

.254 

Williamsburg 

.11 

265 

Rapid  Plat 

.  2 

267 

Matilda 

.  6 

272 

Point  Iroqupis 

.  2 

274 

Gallop  Rapids. ..... 

.  6 

280 

Pkkscott  or 

Ogdknsburgh 

.  6 

286 

Maitland 

.  7 

293 

Brockville 

.  6 

298 

(Thousand  Islands.) 

Gananoque 

.30 

328 

KINGSTON 

.22 

350 

Gananoque 22 

(Thousand  Islands.) 

Brockville 30 

Maitland 6 

Prescott,  or 

Ogden«burgh 7 

Gallop  Rapids 6 

Point  Iroquois 6 

Matilda 2 

Rapid  Plat 5 

Williamsburg.  ...  2 

Farren's  Point 11 

Dickinson's  Landing.  4 
(Long  Saut  Rapid.) 

Cornwall .10 

St.  Regis 3 

(N.  Y.  State  Line.) 

Lancaster 13 

CoTEAu  DU  Lac.  .  .16 

Cedar  Rapids 5 

Split  Rock"   2 

Cascade      '*   3 

Beauharnois 1 

La  Chine 18 

MONTREAL  9 

William  Henry.  .45 

Lake  St.  Peter 10 

Threk  Rivers 35 

Richelieu  Rapids ...  85 
QUEBEC 45 


52 
57 

64 
70 
76 
78 
83 
85 
96 
100 

110 
113 

126 
142 
147 
149 

152 
153 
171 
180 
225 
235 
270 
305 
350 


Distance  from  Quebec  to  Niagara  Falls,  570  miles. 
Descent  in  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  from  Kingston  to  Quebe<^ 
234  feet. 


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TRIP  FROM  QUEBEC  TO  THE  SAGUENAY  RI'ER. 


.\»  a  trip  down  the  St,  Lawrence  to  Riviere  du  Loup,  Ka- 
kouna,  and  the  far-famed  river  Saguenay  has,  within  the  last 
few  years,  become* a  fashionable  and  exceedingly  interesting 
steamboat  excursion,  we  subjoin  an  account  of  such  trip  made 
by  the  author  some  few  years  since. 

As  the  steamboat  left  the  wharf,  she  took  a  graceful  turn  up 
stream,  passing  a  74  gun- ship  of  the  Koyal  Navy,  and  then  de- 
BCCJided,  running  close  under  Point  Levi,  affording  a  fine  view 
of  the  city  and  citadel  of  Quebec. 

The  beautiful  line  of  settlements  below  the  city,  on  the  same 
Bide  of  the  river,  next  attracts  attention  ;  the  view  in  the  distance 
being  bounded  by  hills,  apparently  elevated  1,500  to  2,000  feet 
above  the  waters  of  tlie  St,  Lawrence, 

The  romantic  Falls  of  Monhnoreticiy  seven  miles  below 
Quebec,  are  seen  to  great  advantage  from  the  deck  of  the 
steamer,  plunging  over  an  almost  perpendicular  precipice  of  240 
feet  directly  into  this  great  river.  Immediately  below,  on  the 
bank  of  the  St,  Lawrence,  was  fought  a  severe  battle  between 
the  English  and  French  armies,  a  short  time  previous  to  the 
capture  of  Quebec  by  Gen.  Wolfe,  in  1759,  in  which  the  British 
were  repulsed  with  considerable  loss. 

The  Island  of  Orleans  is  next  passed  on  the  left,  descend 
ing  the  river  through  the  principal  ship  channel.  Tiiis  is  a  fertile 
tract,  20  miles  long  by  five  or  six  wide,  and  in  part  covered  with 
a  beautiful  growth  of  forest.  It  rises  from  50  to  100  feet  above 
the  water,  and  the  stream  of  the  St.  Lawi-ence  being  here 
divided,  the  aspect  of  the  shores  at  once  reminds  you  of  the 
Bcener/  of  the  Hudson  River  above  the  Highlands.  It  has  a 
population  of  about  7,000  souls,  and  produces  the  finest  fruit  in 
Lower  Canada,  excepting  that  raJ^sed  in  the  vicinity  of  MontreaL 

22 


254  QUKDEO    TO    THE    SAOUENAT    RIVER,    KTO. 

St.  Patrick's  Hole,  eleven  miles  below  Quebec,  on  the 
Orleans  shore,  aflfonls  a  fine  anchorage  for  vessels  of  the  largest 
■ise.  It  was  here,  some  30  years  ago,  that  the  immense  timber 
ship  was  built,  supposed  to  be  the  largest  vessel,  by  far,  that 
ever  crossed  the  xVtlantic. 

The  Parish  of  St.  Laurent,  14  miles  below  Quebec,  is  hand- 
somely situated  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  island,  which  is  set- 
tled exclusively  by  French  Canadians,  mostljr  engaged  in  culti- 
vating the  soil.  The  dwellings  have  a  remarkably  neat  look, 
being  one  story  higli,  with  both  roof  and  sides  painted  white. 

The  southeast  sliore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  for  many  miles  be- 
low Point  Levi,  presents  a  succession  of  villages  and  hamlets, 
consisting  each  of  a  cluster  of  houses  with  a  church  standing  in 
the  midst,  and  with  its  aspect  of  guardianship  and  guidance  to 
the  families  dwelling  around,  imparting  to  the  landscape  a 
moral  expression,  which  greatly  enhances  its  picturesque 
beauty. 

The  vessels  usually  seen  on  this  part  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are 
of  the  larger  class  of  merchant  ships.  The  arrivals  at  the  port 
of  Quebec  average  some  1,400  to  1,500  annually,  mostly  from 
Grc.io  Britain,  and  bes^es  other  colonial  produce,  they  carry 
back  immense  qurntities  of  timber  and  lumber. 

Madam  Island,  20  miles  from  Quebec,  is  one  of  several 
small  islands  lying  below  Orleans.  The  river  here  widens  to  *"-en 
miles,  which  gradually  increases  all  the  way  to  its  mouth ;  and 
for  most  of  the  distance  there  are  two  ship  channels,  called  the 
north  and  south  channels,  the  latter  being  the  best  and  most 
aavigated.  \ 

Cape  Tourment,  30  miles  below  Quebec,  is  a  bold  promon- 
tory on  the  northwest  side  of  the  river  rising  to  the  height  of 
about  2,000  feet,  and  seen  at  a  great  distance.  Here  the  scen- 
ery is  truly  grand. 

Qrgsse  Island,  opposite  Cape  Tourment,  is  the  Quarantine 
station  for  vessels  ascending  the  river,  and  it  has  a  hospital,  a 
Roman  Catholic  chapel,  and  other  buildii-gs  usually  connected 
With  such  an  establishment. 


QUEBEC    TO    TIIR    8A0UKNAY    RIVER,    ETC.  25^ 

8t  Thomas,  40  miles  from  Quebec,  on  the  southeast  shore, 
Ib  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  stream  called  South  Rivir.  The 
shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  lined  with  a  succession  of  dwellings 
for  many  miles  below,  with  high  grounds  rising  iii  the  distance, 
beyond  which  may  occasionally  be  seen  the  hills  formerly 
claimed  by  the  Americans,  as  the  boundary  between  the  State 
of  Maine  and  Canada.  Here  terminates  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  for  the  present,  but  will  be  extended  soon  some  100 
miles  farther,  to  Trois  Pistoles. 

Crane  Island,  45  miles  below  Quebec,  is  fertile  and  settled. 
Its  north  end  is  adorned  with  the  delightful  residence  of  tho 
Seigneur. 

(ioosE  Island,  50  miles  from  Quebec,  is  owned  by  the  Nuns, 
and  is  cultivated  as  a  farm,  by  tenants. 

The  Pillars,  GO  miles  below  Quebec,  is  the  name  given  to 
several  small  rocky  islets,  on  one  of  which  stands  a  light-house. 
Here  the  scenery  is  peculiarly  grand  and  interesting.  The  vast 
estuary  of  the  river  below  looks  indeed  like  an  opening  to  the 
ocean  The  shores  for  some  ten  miles  onward  are  studded  with 
shining  residences,  while  the  hills  in  the  distance,  on  both  sides, 
resemble  very  much  the  scenery  bordering  the  widest  part  of 
Lake  Champlain. 

Sixty-five  miles  below  Quebec  is  the  remarkable  channel 
called  the  Traverse,  A  floating  light  guides  the  mariner  by 
night  through  this  narrow  and  dangerous  passage. 

Isle  aux  Coudrks  (Isle  of  Filberts)  is  a  large  body  of  land 
lying  toward  the  north  shore,  opposite  the  Bay  of  St.  Paul's, 
and  about  65  miles  from  Quebec.  It  is  said  that  when  Jacques 
Cartier  anchored  here,  on  his  first  voyage  of  discovery  up  the 
St.  Lawrence,  he  gave  this  island  the  name  it  yet  bears,  from 
the  quantity  of  filberts,  or  hazel  nuts,  which  he  found  there. 

St.  Anne  stands  on  the  southeast  shore,  on  a  bay  of  the  same 
name.  Here  is  a  Catholic  college  and  a  settlement  of  consider- 
able size,  about  70  miles  from  Quebec. 

As  you  approach  Goose  Cape,  75  miles  below  Quebec,  th© 
banks  of  the  river  seem  to  decline  in  the  distance;  the  liver 


fl.OB  QUEHKC    TO    TIIK    RAOUENAY    UIVRR,    BTO. 

DOW  bein;^  free  of  islands,  presents  a  large  expanse  of  water, 
lero  being  alM)Ut  IH  miles  wide. 

MuiiUAY  Bay,  80  miles  below  Quebec,  lies  on  the  northwest 
fide  of  the  8t.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the  Humf 
name.  'I'hii*  is  a  fine  section  of  country,  pnKhicing  wiioat  anj 
other  kinds  of  grain  in  abundance.  Beyond  this  place  is  somi  a 
beautiful  range  of  hills,  terminating  at  Capo  Eagle  and  Cape 
Salmon  on  the  east.  This  delightful  place  has  become,  within  a 
few  years,  a  fashionable  summer  resort  for  the  Canadians. 

Kamouraska,  situated  DO  miles  below  Quebec,  on  the  south- 
east side  of  the  river,  contains  about  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is 
surrounded  by  a  fruitful  district.  Vessels  can  land  here  only 
at  high  water ;  at  low  water,  passengers  are  taken  ashore  in 
small  boats.  In  the  rear  of  this  village  are  seen  abrupt  and 
sterile  hills  with  little  or  no  verdure.  In  front  are  two  or  three 
small  islands,  chiefly  resorted  to  for  fishing  and  bathing,  this 
being  a  favorite  resort,  during  the  summer  months,  for  the 
citizens  of  Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  is  no  doubt  destined  to 
become  a  fashionable  watering-place,  where  sea-bathing  can  be 
enjoyed  by  invalids  and  seekers  of  pleasure. 

About  105  miles  below  Quebec  are  the  Pilgrim  Islands,  a 
group  of  rocky  islets  which  are  passed  to  the  right.  On  the  left, 
a  few  miles  below,  is  Hare  Island,  near  the  middle  of  the  river. 

The  settlement  at  the  Riviere  du  Loup,  110  miles  below 
Quebec,  ou  the  southeast  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  contains  about 
1,500  inhabitants.  Here  commences  the  great  road  from  the 
St.  Lawrence  River  to  the  St.  John's,  by  the  way  of  the  Mada- 
waska  River  and  settlement. 

Cacona  or  Kakouna,  120  miles  below  Quebec  is  a  fashion- 
able sea-bathing  resort. 

Rkd  Island  lies  off  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  this  being 
the  first  island  of  the  small  group  met  on  ascending  the  St. 
Lawrence.  It  is  destitute  of  a  light,  and  haa  caused  many  ship- 
wrecks during  the  prevalence  of  fogs  and  storms,  so  frequent  on 
the  lower  part  of  the  river  and  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  Greejt 
IsLuAND  lies  nearly  opposite  Red  Island,  on  the  southeast.  ,  .  ^.i' 


QUEDKC    TO    THE    8A0UKNAY    RTVKR,    BTC.  257 

RIVER  DU  LOUP  AND  KAKOUNA. 
From  Vis  pen  of  a  UiUnUd  CorreMpondtni  of  iff  Afontrtal  Gtuftts. 

•'RiviKRK  nu  Loi'p  is  a  prettily  situated  vill)ij;e,  taking  ita 
name  from  its  river,  which  river  huM  been  made  avuilahle  lor  the 
purposes  of  an  extensive  saw-mill,  a  water-power  Iwin;^  created 
by  Its  precipitation  over  a  ridjjje  of  rocks,  which  f«»rni  the  Vi'ry 
beautiful  Kivicro  du  Loup  Falls.  There  are  a  few  "  Kuj^lish" 
Bottk'rs  (the  word  being  used  in  its  general  sense  as  distinguish- 
ing from  **  French"),  and  a  clergyman  of  the  Church  of  Knglund 
is  stationed  here.  !Six  miles  from  Riviere  du  Loup  is  the  vdlage 
of  '•  Kakoitna,"  to  adopt  the  Indian  and  nu)re  euphonious  name, 
which  is  effectually  supplanting  the  corruptions  of  •'  Cacona" 
and  "  Cocona"  now  in  vogue.  Ivakouna  is  iormed  into  a  village, 
from  the  invariable  custom  of  placing  the  houses  on  the  front  of 
the  farms.  It  is  prettily  situated  on  a  high  ridge,  along  which 
passes  the  highway.  Behind  the  ridge  on  which  the  village 
stands,  gently  8h)pes  a  valley,  which  is  well  cultivated,  ascend- 
ing gradually  till  it  attains  a  considerable  elevation  at  the  rear 
concession,  where  another  village  and  church  are  placed.  In 
front  of  the  Kakouna  ridge  a  curtain  of  trees  intervenes  between 
the  village  and  the  beach.  The  view  from  Kakouna  is  very 
pleasing.  The  river  stretches  out  before  it  in  a  nol»le  width  of 
twonty-iive  miles.  The  farther  shore  is  a  continuous  succession 
of  mountains.  Amid  them  opens  up  the  scarcely  visible  em- 
bouchure of  the  Saguenay,  Up  the  river  the  pilgrim  rocks  look 
grim  and  solitary.  Midway,  Hare  Island  rises  from  the  sur- 
rounding waters.  Below,  Kakouna  Island  projects  into  the 
river,  forn.ing  a  bay.  Sunset  at  Kakouna  sometimes  presents 
an  enchanting  spectacle.  The  gently  rippling  waters  gleam 
and  shine  with  the  sparkling  luster  derived  from  the  rays  of  the 
declining  sun.  The  brilliant  coloring  and  changeful  hues  of  the 
evening  sky  appear  to  rest  upon  the  somber  mountains,  which, 
begirt  midwsy  with  a  zone  of  gray  mist,  contrast  strangely  with 
the  gleaming  dark  blue  river  which  laves  their  base.  Far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  the  wide  expanse  glitters,  as  if  set  with  gems 
of  every  hue — its  calm  repose  unbroken,  save  by  the  numerous 
vessels  which,  with  their  white  sails  floating  on  the  breeze,  pro- 
claim the  industry  of  man  and  his  power  over  the  elements,  or 
by  the  shores  of  the  islets  which,  bathed  in  light,  rise  from  its 
surface.  When  a  storm,  too,  rise.-,,  the  river  wears  a  peculiar 
grandeur,  and  the  mind  is  irresistibly  impressed  with  a  sense 
of  its  majesty,  and  led  to  a  contemplation  from  nature  up  to 
nature's  Uod. 

"  But,  to  pass  on  from  this  digression,  a  word  or  two  as  to  the 
advantages  of  Riviere  du  Loup  and  Kakouna  as  watering-places. 
Kow  easy  of  access,  with  a  telegraph  at  iiiviere  du  Loup  and  a 


258  QUEBKC    TO    THB    8A0UENAY    RIVER,    KTO. 

daily  mail,  these  places  are  every  year  becoming  more  resorted 
to.  *rherc  in  now  much  increased  accommodation  at  Kakoana, 
where  are  two  \:\r^e  and  commodious  hotels,  and  a  good  boavd- 
ing-house.  These  contain  many  visitors,  but  many  families  nre 
accommodated  in  the  farm-houses — renting  these  and  providing 
for  thomsclves.  This  is  a  comfortable  and  independent  plan. 
The  houses  are  improving  in  accommodation;  the  practice  is  'be- 
ginning to  be  establislied  of  the  Canadian  families  having  a 
smaller  house,  to  which  they  betake  themselves  so  as  to  give  to 
the  visitors  control  of  the  whole  of  the  farm-house.  A  few  home 
comforts  will  naturally  be  wanting,  but  life  in  Kakouna  is  not 
without  its  attractions,  and  the  deprivation  of  a  few  comforts 
makes  one  appreciate  them  more  keenly  when  regained.  A 
baker  loaves  regularly  at  the  houses  good  bread.  Beef,  poultry, 
mutton,  saliiioji,  herrings,  pigeon,  sardines,  eggs,  milk,  and 
butter  present  a  bill  of  fare  that  shows  there  is  no  danger  of 
starving,  while  strawberries,  raspberries,  and  blueberries  are 
besides  to  be  had  in  the  greatest  abundance.  The  strawberry 
grows  in  peculiar  profusion,  and  of  a  singularly  excellent 
quality,  atiaining  often  a  large  size.  The  children  of  the  vil- 
lage reap  a  harvest  v/hile  they  continue.  The  sportsman  will 
not  find  much  game,  through  trout  are  abundant  in  the  streams 
and  lakes.  There  are,  it  may  be  remarked,  attractive  places 
for  walks  and  drives,  however  But  the  main  recommendation 
of  the  two  places  in  question,  is  the  comparative  moderation  of 
the  temperature,  and  the  fact  that  open  air  exercise  can,  at  all 
periods  of  the  day,  be  enjoyed.  The  heat  is  never  excessive,  but 
the  air  of  the  evening  is  often  decidedly  cool.  On  th'^  whole, 
these  watering-places  of  the  St.  Lawrence  will  no  doubt  continue 
to  attract  a  steady  annual  stream  of  visitors,  desirous  of  luxuri- 
ating in  a  cool  atmosphere  and  enjoying  sea-bathing,  while 
other  places  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  presenting  equal  or 
greater  advantages,  will  no  doubt  in  due  course  come  into  no- 
tice, and  prove  desirable  places  of  resort  so  soon  as  the  necessary 
facilities  for  reaching  them  shall  have  been  supplied." 

As  you  approach  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay  River,  the 
waters  take  a  very  black  hue,  perceivable  for  many  miles  below, 
and  extending  far  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  Just  within  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  near  Tadousac,  there  is  a  round  mountain  peak, 
called  Tite  du  Boule,  about  800  feet  high,  while  on  the  opposite 
bank  there  is  another  bold  eminence. 

Tadousac,  140  miles  below  Quebec,  is  situated  on  the  north- 
West  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mou'h  of  the  Saguenay 
Bwer.     This  is  a  post  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 


OUEBEC    TO    THE    SAGUENAT    RIVER,    ETC.  259 

and  is  the  residence  of  one  of  its  partners  and  an  agent.  They 
alone  are  allowed  to  trade  with  the  Indians  in  the  interior,  who 
occasionally  visit  this  place,  but  more  frequently  Ohicoutimi,  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Saguenay,  and  the  post  at  the 
Lake  of  St.  John,  where  some  of  the  company's  agents  also  re- 
aide.  At  Tadousac  is  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  a  store,  and 
warehouse,  and  some  eight  or  ten  dwellings.  Iloi'e  is  erected 
a  flag-staff,  surrounded  by  several  pieces  of  cannon,  on  an  emi- 
nence elevated  about  50  feet  and  overlooking  the  inner  harbor, 
where  is  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  to  float  the  largest  vessels. 
This  place  was  early  settled  by  the  French,  who  are  said  to  have 
here  erected  the  first  dwelling  built  of  stone  and  mortar  in 
Canada,  and  the  remains  of  it  are  still  to  be  seen.  The  view  is 
exceedingly  picturesque  from  this  point.  The  southern  shore 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  may  be  traced  even  with  the  naked  eye  for 
many  a  league — the  undulating  lines  of  snow-white  cottages 
stretching  far  away  both  east  and  west — while  the  scene  is 
rendered  gay  and  animated  by  the  frequent  passage  of  the 
merchant  vessel  plowing  its  way  toward  the  port  of  Quebec, 
or  hurrying  upon  the  descending  tide  to  the  Gulf — while  from 
the  summit  of  the  hill  upon  which  Tadousac  stjinds,  the  sublime 
and  impressive  scenery  of  the  Saguenay  rises  into  view. 


We  extract  from  the  Report  of  the  Commissioners  for  explor- 
ing the  Saguenay,  published  in  1829,  the  following  : 

"  Upon  landing  at  Tadousac,  we  proceeded  immediately  to 
examine  a  few  of  the  geognostical  characters  of  the  country. 
The  only  place  of  residence  here  is  erected  on  a  bank  of  sandy 
alluvium,  elevated  about  fifty  feet  above  the  river,  and  forming 
a  flat  tarrace  at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  which  suddenly 
eraorges  at  a  short  distance  behind.  The  rocks  of  which  these 
mruntains  are  composed  is  granite,  either  of  a  red  or  gray  color, 
depending  upon  that  of  the  feldspar.  On  the  shore  were  seen 
small  deposits  of  magnetic  iron.  Here  bases  were  measured, 
and  the  requisite  angle  taken,  for  determining  the  height  of  the 
most  elevated  point,  on  either  side  of  the  Saguenay,  at  its 
mouth,  and  this  was  found  to  be  912  feet  on  the  westerly  side, 
•jad  588  on  the  opposite." 


260  8AGUENAY   RIVER. 

L'ance  a  L'eau,  or  Water  Harbor,  situated  on  the  Sagne- 
nay,  about  a  half  a  mile  above  Tadousac,  is  the  name  of  a  set- 
tlement where  is  an  extensive  lumber  establishment. 

The  St.  Lawrence  River,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay, 
assumes  an  imposing  appearance,  gradually  widening  until  its 
breadth  exceeds  one  hundred  miles. 


THE   SAGUENAY. 


*'  This  river  has  its  mouth,  according  to  common  computation, 
130  miles  below  Quebec,  on  the  north  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
in  latitude  48  deg.  6  min.  38  sec.  long.,  70  deg.  40  min.  west 
from  Greenwich.  It  discharges  a  much  greater  body  of  water 
than  any  other  river  that  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  Indeed, 
it  is  the  largest  river  in  North  America,  the  St.  Lawrence  ex- 
cepted, east  of  the  Alleghanies. 

"  It  takes  the  name  of  Saguenay  only  below  Lake  St.  Johrif 
which  lies  about  120  miles  N.  by  W.  of  Quebec.  From  Tadou- 
sac, a  distance  of  about  140  miles  to  the  lake,  the  course  of  the 
river  is  nearly  east  and  west,  Tadousac  being,  as  before  stated, 
in  lat.  48  deg.  6  min.  38  sec,  and  the  south  side  of  Ijake  St. 
John  in  48  deg.  23  min.  12  sec,  giving  only  16  miles  to  thft 
north  of  Tadousac." 

This  lake,  which  is  nearly  circular,  is  about  40  miles  across, 
and  it  is  the  center  of  an  extensive  region,  the  waters  of  which 
flow  into  it  from  the  north,  the  west,  and  the  south,  in  twelve 
principal  rivers,  being  discharged  to  the  east  by  the  Saguenay. 

The  streams  which  flow  into  this  lake  from  the  south,  the 
west,  and  the  northwest  have  their  sources  in  a  mountainous 
tract  which  ranges  nearly  east  and  west  for  a  long  distance, 
and  then,  far  in  the  west,  bends  northwardly,  separating  these 
waters  from  those  which  seek  the  St.  Lawrence  above  Quebec 
and  the  Ottawa ;  and  regarding  them  in  their  still  wider  rela- 
tions, they  are  part  of  the  extensive  range  of  highlands  which 
divide  the  basin  of  the  St.  Lawrence  from  that  of  Hudson  Bay 
and  its  tributaries. 

'*  The  country,  the  waters  of  which  are  discharged  into  the 
St.  Lawrence  by  the  Saguenay,  is  more  extensive  than  all  the 
rest  of  Lower  Canada ;  but  it  has  till  lately  contained,  prob- 
ably, not  more  than  a  few  hundred  Indian  families,  who  live  b/ 


8AOUENAY    RIVER,  201 

htmting  and  fishing,  and  exchange  their  surplus  with  lessees 
of  the  King's  Post,  for  a  few  articles  of  imported  produce. 

'*  The  passage  of  the  waters  of  the  Sagucnay  from  below  the 
Ha-lla  Bay  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  distance  of  fifty  miles,  is  one 
of  the  wonders  of  natureA  They  penetrate  through  a  mount- 
ainous tract,  composed  of  sienite  granite,  forming  an  immense 
canal  in  many  places,  with  banks  of  perpendicular  rocks  rising 
from  a  thousand  to  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
river,  which  is  from  a  hundred  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  fatlioms 
deep  nearly  the  whole  way,  and  from  a  mile  to  three  miles 
broad.  The  power  and  pride  of  man  is  as  much  humbled  in 
some  parts  of  this  tremendous  chasm,  as  in  the  inmiediate  pres- 
ence of  Niagara  Falls.  In  many  places  the  largest  vessel  may 
run  close  to  the  perpendicular  rocks,  with  100  fathoms  water. 
There  are,  however,  several  coves  with  good  anchorage.  In 
Ha-Ha  Bay  the  navy  of  England  might  ride,  in  froui  five  to 
eighty  fathoms.  At  twelve  miles  below  Chicoutimi,  which  is 
distant  68  miles  from  Tadousac,  the  spring  tide  rises  18  feet, 
and  there  is  from  10  to  50  fathoms  at  low  water.  The  tide  rises 
and  the  river  is  navigable  seven  miles  above  Chicoutimi,  where 
the  rapids  of  the  outlet  of  Lake  St.  John  commence.  At  this 
point  a  range  of  highlands  crosses  the  Saguenay,  extending 
along  the  head  waters  of  the  Malbay,  the  Gouffre,  the  Jacques 
Cartier,  St.  Anne,  Batiscan,  and  St.  Maurice,  and  forming  the 
Bouth  and  western  side  of  the  basin  of  Lake  St.  John,  with  the 
Hudson  Bay  highlands  on  the  north  and  east. 

"  It  is  only  within  a  few  years  that  there  have  been  any  agri- 
cultural settlers  in  the  Saguenay  country.  At  present  there 
are  a  few  hundred  families  of  squatters  from  the  north  shore 
below  Quebec,  chiefly  induced  to  go  in  by  employment  in  lum- 
bering, etc.,  for  Mr.  Price's  numerous  saw- mills.  At  Ha- Ha 
Bay  there  is  a  church,  and  about  150  families,  and  openings 
are  made  at  various  places  on  the  river.  The  soil  is  of  disin- 
tegrated clay  and  granite,  with  limestone  in  some  places.  The 
general  level  of  the  land  above  Ha-Ha  Bay,  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach  from  the  river,  is  not  higher  than  the  island  of  Or- 
leans, although  more  broken.  The  timber  mixed,  hard  and 
Boft,  and  of  a  middling  growth.  The  climate  is  milder,  if  any- 
thing, than  at  Quebec.  With  the  exception  of  the  ridge  cross- 
ing below  Lake  St.  John,  already  mentioned,  the  country  to  a 
great  extent  round  the  lake,  but  particularly  on  the  southwest 
side,  is  of  the  same  character. 

*'  On  entering  the  Saguenay  from  Tadousac,  which  is  about 
one  mile  widt.  at  its  mouth,  the  hills  soon  rise  abruptly  from  the 
water's  edgg,  from  500  to  1 ,000  feet  above  the  tide- way,  pre- 
senting an  appearance  somewhat  similar  to  the  entrance  from 
the  north  into  the  '  Highlands'  of  the  Hudson  River,  with  which 


262    QUEBEC  TO  THE  SAGUENAY  K»VER,  KTO. 

most  travelers  are  familiar,  divcsteil,  however,  of  all  appear 
ance  of  habitation  for  many  miles,  and  the  Saguenay  avei  ag- 
ing twice  the  width  of  the  Hudson." 

Tete  du  Boule,  a  round  mountain  peak,  rises  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river,  about  one  mile  from  its  mouth.  Here  the 
rocks  and  hills  are  mostly  bare,  but  the  verdure  increases  aa 
you  ascend. 

About  three  miles  from  Tadousac,  the  river  inclines  to  the 
north  for  a  few  miles,  then  resumes  its  western  course  to  Chi- 
coutimi,  a  distance  of  sixty-eight  miles  from  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  being  in  many  places  three  miles  in  width,  with  a  great 
depth  of  water,  until  you  arrive  at  the  bar,  about  sixty  miles 
from  its  mouth. 

The  Two  Profiles,  seen  on  the  north  shore,  a  few  miles  up, 
and  elevated  several  hundred  feet  above  the  water,  bear  a  strik- 
ing resemblance  to  the  human  face. 

St.  Louis  Island  presents  a  rocky  and  rugged  appearance. 
It  lies  eighteen  miles  above  Tadousac,  and  may  be  passed  by 
L'lrge  vessels  on  either  side.  Here,  it  is  said,  fine  trout  may  be 
taken  in  large  quantities. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  river  Marguerite,  on  the  north  shore, 
and  at  St.  John's  Bay,  on  the  south,  are  lumber  establishments 
— the  latter  28  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay. 

At  the  distance  of  34  miles  from  Tadousac,  on  the  south 
lJ)ore  of  the  river,  are  two  enormous  masses  of  rock  called 
Etermty  Point  and  Cape  Trinity.  They  rise  from  the 
water's  edge  to  the  height  of  some  1,500  feet,  and  so  abruptly 
that  they  can  almost  be  touched  with  the  hand  from  the  deck 
of  the  passing  steamer.  The  aspect  of  these  mountain  cliflFs  is 
beyond  expression  grand.  No  man  can  pass  along  their  base, 
and  lift  his  eyes  up  their  vast  height,  without  awe- without 
e-xperiencing  the  most  intense  emotions  of  sublimity.  Sheltered 
be  I  ween  them  is  a  lovely  recess  of  the  shore  called  Trinity  Cove, 
Its  sequestered  and  lonely  beauty  enhanced  by  its  strong  con- 
trast with  the  wild  grandeur  of  the  rest  of  the  i3cene.  (Sc4 
Engtaving.) 


QUEBEC    TO    THE    SAOUENAY    RIVER,    ETC.  263 

Trinity  Cape  takes  its  name  from  the  three  peaks  of  ita 
imramit,  bearing  some  resemblance  to  three  human  heads  ;  and 
the  name  of  Etkrnity  Point  is  abundjintly  indicated  by  the 
huge  pile  of  ever-during  rock  of  which  it  is  composed.  The 
whole  scene — the  majestic  river,  a  hundred  fathoms  deep,  roll- 
ing along  the  base  and  in  the  shadows  of  the  vast  and  beetling 
cliffs,  bearing  on  their  rocky  fronts  the  impress  of  Almiglity 
power  and  everlasting  duration — the  whole  scene  at  this  placo 
is  unsurpassed  for  its  magnificence  and  solemn  beauty. 

Continuing  up  the  Saguenay,  Statue  Point  is  next  passed, 
where  formerly  was  to  be  seen  a  rock  in  a  niche,  high  above 
the  water,  which  resembled  a  huge  human  figure.  The  niche 
is  still  visible,  but  the  figure  has  fallen  into  thi  deep  water. 

The  Tableau  is  an  upright  rock,  rising  almost  perpcndio- 
nlarly  from  the  water,  to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet, 
situated  on  the  south  shore. 

The  scenery  in  this  vicinity,  and  for  several  miles  below,  is 
exceedingly  grand  and  picturesque — high  and  precipitous  hills, 
clothed  with  a  stunted  growth  of  forest  trees,  and  all  around  a 
wild  solitude,  unbroken  by  a  sign  of  habitation  or  life,  except 
occasionally  a  huge  porpoise  showing  his  back  above  the  wave, 
and  the  water-fowl  peculiar  to  these  northern  latitudes. 

Fifty-eight  miles  from  Tadousac  opens  the  Ha-Ha,  or  Great 
B.  ',  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  It  is  entered  on  the  left,  while 
the  Saguenay  proper  comes  down  on  the  right.  At  the  head 
of  the  bay  there  is  a  large  settlement,  with  several  extensive 
saw-mills. 

The  Bay  of  Ha-Ha — a  name  by  no  means  euphonious  or 
worthy  of  the  locality — contains  a  numerous  population  for  so 
new  a  country.  Two  villages  appear  at  the  farther  extremity, 
the  population  whereof  must  number  at  least  five  hundred 
souls;  it  is  situated  about  sixty  miles  above  the  entrance,  and 
so  closely  does  it  resemble  the  Saguenay,  that  it  is  only  when 
the  traveler  has  arrived  at  its  extremity  that  the  mistake  is 
perceived.  The  streams  which  flow  into  this  bay  furnish  the 
various  saw-mills  with  the  power  of  preparing  deals  for  tli« 


264         QUEBEC    TO    THE    SAGUENAY    RIVER,    ETC. 

English  market — and  it  is  not  an  uncommon  occurrence  to  be- 
hold three  or  four  square-rigged  vessels  busily  engaged  load- 
ing on  English  account.  All  the  lumber  establishments 
througliout  the  country  are  owned  by  the  firm  of  Messrs.  Price 
&  Co.,  of  Quebec,  and  although  they  entered  the  trade  in  the 
first  instance  with  the  intent  of  furthering  their  own  interests, 
the  result  has  been  that  the  men  they  employed  have  become 
settlers,  and  brought  into  cultivation  a  large  tract  of  arable 
land 

From  the  entrance  to  Ha-IIa  Bay  to  Chicoutimi,  a  distance 
of  about  twelve  miles,  the  banks  of  the  river  are  less  rugged 
and  are  clothed  with  more  verdure,  and  openings  may  now  be 
seen  on  both  shores,  with  occasionally  a  habitation.  About  eight 
miles  below  Chicoutimi  there  is  a  bar,  which  can  be  passed  by 
vessels  of  a  large  size  only  when  the  tide  is  up,  this  being  the 
first  impediment  to  navigation  in  ascending  this  noble  river, 
which  for  grandeur  of  scenery  and  depth  of  water  may  vie 
with  any  other  stream  on  the  American  continent. 

Chicoutimi,  (58  miles  from  Tadou?mc,  situated  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Chicoutimi  Iliver  with  the  Saguenay,  where  is  a  pic> 
turesque  water-fall,  is  another  post  occupied  by  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company,  which  has  a  resident  agent  stationed  here.  The 
Bottlement  now  contains  an  extensive  saw-mill,  a  few  dwell- 
ings, and  a  venerabkvlooking  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  of  small 
dimensions,  erected  in  1727.  It  is  one  of  those  stations  where, 
in  former  days,  the  indefatigable  Jesuits  established  a  home 
for  themselves ;  a  church  yet  remains  to  attest  their  religious 
zeal.  This  edifice  is  believed  to  have  been  one  of  the  first 
erected  in  Canada.  The  locality  selected  is  singularly  pictur- 
esque and  romantic.  On  one  side  the  Saguenay  pours  down  its 
mighty  flood,  the  shores  on  either  side  covered  to  the  water's 
edge  with  the  most  luxuriant  foliage,  while,  on  the  other  side, 
a  safe  and  commodious  bay  receives  the  mountain  torrent  of  the 
Chicoutimi  River. 

The  church,  a  peculiarly  agreeable  object  in  so  remote  a 
6pot,  stands  about  100  yards  f^om  the  margin  of  the  stream,  in 


QUEBEC    TO    THE    SAQUENAY    RIVER,    ETC.  265 

• 

the  center  of  a  plat  of  gr'  i-^ard  set  out  with  shrubbery,  and 
forest  trees  crown  the  rising  ground  in  the  rear.  Here  assora- 
ble  at  stated  periods  the  children  of  the  soil;  some  from  the 
region  of  the  far  north — the  faith  which  their  fathers  wore 
taught  in  earlier  ages  leading  them  to  reverence  a  spot  hal 
lowed  by  traditional  associations. 

The  steamboat  navigation  of  the  Saguenay  ends  here,  as  the 
river  above  this  is  obstructed  by  rapids  and  falls.  Fifty  miles 
above  Chicoutimi,  the  river  issues  from  Lakk  St.  John,  which 
is  a  fine  expanse  of  water  of  about  80  miles  in  length,  and,  in 
the  widest  part,  the  same  in  breadth,  its  superficial  area  being 
over  600  square  miles.  The  rivers  Mistasine,  JlssuajmiouS' 
soin,  Peribonea,  and  Oitatchoanis/i,  all  of  which  are  large 
streams,  and  many  smaller  ones,  empty  into  Lake  St.  John, 
and  as  its  only  outlet  is  the  Saguenay,  which  also  receives  many 
considerable  streams  in  its  course,  the  great  depth  and  volume 
of  water  in  that  river  may  be  thus  accounted  for.  A  portage 
road,  or  foot-path,  runs  from  Chicoutimi  to  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company's  station  on  Lake  St.  John.  * 

Lake  St.  Johuy  the  Saguenai/,  and  the  rivers  which  they 
receive,  abound  in  excellent  fish,  consisting  of  white  fish,  bass, 
trout,  doro,  carp,  pike,  eels,  and  others;  the  favorite  salmon, 
during  the  spring  and  summer  months,  ascends  the  Saguenay 
for  a  considerable  distance,  and  are  taken  in  large  quantities 
and  shipped  to  Quebec ;  also  cured  and  sent  to  European  mar- 
kets. 

"  The  region  of  the  Saguenay  can  not  long  remain  silent  and 
unoccupied.  It  is  destined  to  become  the  home  of  an  active 
and  enterprising  race.  The  climate  is  well  adopted  to  the 
purposes  of  agriculture,  and  the  virgin  soil  can  not  fail  to  repay 
the  labors  of  the  farmer.  The  aspect  of  the  country  ai-ound 
Chicoutimi  is  divested  of  the  rugged  and  rocky  character  which 
distinguishes  the  banks  of  the  Saguenay  for  the  first  50  miles, 
and  as  the  traveler  advances  inland,  the  appearance  of  the 
country  indicates  a  superior  soil — while  the  climate  in  the 
vicinity  of  Lake  St.  John  approaches  very  closely  to  that  of  the 
Montreal  district." 

Taken  altogether,  fev  excursions  can  afford  more  interest  to 


266      MURRAY   BAY,    TADOUSAC,    IIA  HA    BAY,    ETC. 

# 

the  tourist  and  seeker  of  pleasure,  than  a  visit  to  Chicoutimi  and 
its  vicinity.  Besides  having  a  view  of  the  magnificent  scenery 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  here  may  be  seen  a  picturesque  water-fall, 
and  if  fond  of  angling  or  hunting,  the  visitor  may  enjoy  himself 
to  his  heart's  content— surrounded  by  a  vast  wilderness,  as  yet 
almost  unbroken  by  the  haunts  of  man. 


MURRAY  BAY— TAD0U3AC-HA-UA  BAY,  ETO. 

The  following  letter  was  written  by  a  gentleman  of  Phila- 
delphia : 

"  On  Wednesday  morning,  25th  July,  1855,  we  left  Quebeo 
for  the  lower  St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  rivers.  At  eight 
o'clock,  precisely,  the  steamer  Saguenay  shot  out  from,  the 
landing,  and  rounding  under  the  stern  of  the  French  frigate 
La  Capricu'use  made  her  way  down  the  Sc.  Lawrence.  The 
tin  roofs  and  spires  of  Quebeo  gradually  grew  smaller  in  the 
distance,  and  the  blue  tops  of  the  Green  iMountains,  miles  away 
in  Vermont,  broke  on  the  sight.  As  we  steamed  down  the 
river,  we  had  a  fine  vitsw  of  Quebec  with  its  precipitous  hill, 
crowned  with  battlements,  whose  immense  guns  wore  leveled 
at  us  in  the  harbor.  The  mngnificent  basin  before  the  city  was 
dotted  with  craft  laden  with  other  tributaries  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. A  few  miles  below  Quebeo  the  river  is  divided  by  the 
island  of  Orleans,  which  is  at  first  hilly  and  covered  with  trees, 
but  as  we  pa.ss  along,  its  shores  becomes  fiat  and  under  cultiva- 
tion. Its  lands  are  held  under  the  old  Frencli  tenure,  and  its 
inhabitants  are  Canadian  French.  A  singularity  of  division  in 
lands  which  the  tourist  will  observe  through  Eastern  Canada, 
presents  itself  very  prominently  in  this  island.  The  lands  of 
the  French  population,  the  owner's  death,  are  divided  equally 
among  the  children;  ahi  in  order  that  each  child  may  have  a 
portion  of  the  river  front,  a  farm  is  cut  up  into  narrow  strips 
running  sometimes  a  mile  in  length  by  twenty  yards  in  breadth. 
Upon  the  front  the  liouse  is  built,  and  the  island  shore  is  there- 
fore a  continuous  line  of  little  wooden  houses,  backed  by  culti- 
vated fields 

"In  about  an  hour  after  passing  the  island  of  Orleans,  we 
came  to  Grosso  Isle,  upon  which  is  located  the  Quarantine  Sta- 
tion of  Canada.  Several  large  vessels  were  anchored  in  the 
Btream,  undergoing  the  precautionary  measures  against  infec- 
tious or  contagious  diseases.  Ample  accommodations  are 
erected  upon  the  shore  for  emigrants  sutfering  from  ship-fever 
or  similar  disorders,  afti  the  Lazaretto  arrangements  of  Quebeo 


MrilRAY    BAT,    TAD0U8A0,    HA-IIA    BAY,    ETC.       2G7 

neera  to  bo  of  the  most  perfect  kind.  On  the  mainland,  behind 
(Jrossc  IhIo,  Cape  Tourment  lifts  its  cloud-capped  suniniit  1,800 
feet  into  the  air  The  boat  stopped  at  JShu  r(iy  fhii/  t(<  land 
passengers  and  freight.  This  place  seems  to  be  theCup-'  May  of 
Canada,  where  the  citizens  of  Quebec  and  Montn^al  resort  in 
great  numbers,  for  salt-water  batliing.  The  long  pier  that 
stretches  into  the  river  was  crowded  with  ladies  expecting 
friends  and  relatives  by  the  boat.  During  the  summer, 
the  ladies  of  Canada,  of  every  class,  when  at  watering-places, 
wear  straw  hacs,  with  rims  of  enormous  breadth,  which  afford 
a  marked  contrast  to  the  minute  fixtures  which  American  ladies 
affect.  The  scene  was  highly  picturesque,  and  called  forth 
much  complimentary  notice  from  traveling  Americans  who 
were  aboard.  We  arrived  at  Riviere  iln  Loup,  another  water- 
ing-place, about  dusk,  and  anchored  in  the  stream  to  await 
dayliglit.  At  three  o'clock  we  again  started  for  the  mouth  of 
the  Saguenay,  which  is  directly  across  the  St.  Lawrence  from 
Riviere  du  Loup.  The  tit.  Lawrence  is  twonty-one  miles  wido 
at  this  point.  About  five  o'clock  we  reached  Taduusac.  which 
is  situated  on  the  point  of  land  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the 
Saguenay  and  St.  Lawrence  At  this  place  the  French  first 
Bettled  in  Canada,  s,nd  a  little  red-spired  church  was  pointed 
out  to  us  as  being  the  first  church  erected  north  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  the  oldest  ecclesiastical  edifice  in  America 

"  Leaving  the  St.  Lawrence  at  this  point,  we  plunged  between 
high  ridges  into  the  Saguenay,  and  continued  for  five  hours  to 
float  over  its  mirror-like  expanse.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that 
the  depth  of  the  Saguenay  is  about  seven  hundred  feet  greater 
than  that  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  into  which  it  empties,  and  in 
certain  parts  a  fathom  line  of  one  thousand  feet  fails  to  touch 
bottom.  The  perpendicular  mountains  that  hem  it  in,  riso 
directly  out  of  the  water,  without  an  intervening  shore,  and  the 
steamboat  can  glide  rapidly  along  within  a  yard  of  the  solid 
land.  Cape  Eternity,  about  thirty-five  miles  above  Tadousac, 
is  one  of  the  most  striking  objects  upon  the  route.  It  is  a  huga 
mass  of  granite,  without  tlaw  or  fissure,  rising  eighteen  hundred 
feet  in  the  air.  Hardy  birches  and  pines  cling  tenaciously  to 
its  barren  sides,  giving  the  only  indication  of  life  in  the  vicinity. 
The  boat  arrived  at  this  point  while  we  were  at  breakf'ist,  and 
the  p  lot  ran  into  a  little  cove  beside  it,  so  as  to  give  the  pas- 
sengers a  view  cf  it  from  every  side,  then  rounding  directly 
beneath  the  overhanging  mass,  we  shot  out  into  the  stream  to 
gaze  at  its  heavy  summit  from  the  distance.  There  was  a  feel- 
ing of  indescribable  awe  in  watching  the  receding  boulder,  as 
we  sped  up  the  stream,  and  many  an  admiring  gaze  was  flung 
backward,  even  after  a  sudden  bend  in  the  river  had  hid  it 
from  our  view.    Tete  du  lk)ule,  the  Two  Profiles,  the  Tableau, 


2W       MURRAY    DAY,     rADOUSAC,    HA-HA    BAK,    ETC 

Capo  Trinity,  and  Statuo  Point,  arc  each  attractive  objects  that 
excite  the  alniiriition  of  the  tourist. 

*'  Near  eleven  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  wo  arrived  before  the 
little  town  which  lies  at  the  head  of  Hn-Hn  Htti/,  about  00 
miles  from  ihe  St.  Lawrence,  and  liavini^  dropped  our  anchor, 
the  paHS'!n;^,!rH  were  sjut  ashore  by  the  sliips  boats.  The  town 
is  m(n'»'ly  an  establishment  for  lumbering  purposes,  and  ia 
owned  by  William  I'rice,  Esq.,  of  Quebec,  who  ia  the  most  ex- 
tensive lumber  murchant  in  Canada.  All  the  saw-mills  upiin 
the  Sagu'jiiay  belong  to  this  gentleman,  lie  keeps  constantly 
employed  at  his  various  mills  about  8,000  persons,  and  freights 
over  100  vessels  annually  with  lumber.  As  only  a  few  minutes 
were  allowed  ua.  before  starting  on  our  return  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence. Ave  preferred  remaining  upon  the  steamer's  deck  and 
inspecting  the  town  and  adjacent  country  with  the  aid  of  a 
lorgnette.  About  lla-IIa  Bay  the  cliffs  almost  disappear  and 
some  indications  of  agricultural  attempts  are  manifest,  but  a 
eterilt'  .si>il  and  a  bleak  atmjsphere  always  militate  with  til- 
lage and  fivrming  in  this  region  Tbo  Governor-General  of 
Canada,  Sir  Edmund  Head,  was  expected  to  visit  the  Saguenay 
on  this  trip,  and  as  we  ran  up  before  the  town  a  salute  of  guns 
was  fired,  and  the  English  colors  run  up  the  tiag-^rpff  on  shore 
In  return  for  the  compliment,  Capt.  Simard  decorated  his 
steamer  Avith  flags  of  almust  every  nation,  and  we  left  Ha- Ha 
Bay  about  noon,  in  a  gala  attire  of  floating  bunting.  At 
five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  touched  at  Tadousac,  and  in 
two  hours  after  anchored  at  the  pier  of  Riviere  du  Loup,  to 
wait  for  the  morning.  Early  on  Friday,  July  27,  wo  started 
for  Quebec,  and  made  the  114  miles  before  four  o'clock  in  tho 
afternoon. 

"  The  greater  part  of  American  tourists  make  a  great  mis 
take  in  omitting  the  Saguenay  River.  They  miss  the  finest 
scenery  on  this  continent,  which  \  hey  can  view  by  an  addi- 
tional expense  of  $12  only.  The  fare  on  board  the  boat  is  of 
excellent  quality,  and  the  berths  large  and  comfortable.  It  is 
worth  a  visit  to  the  Saguenay  to  taste  the  salmon,  that  but  an 
hour  before  vsras  gliding  in  its  native  element.  As  a  matter  of 
information  to  those  wisning  to  make  the  trip  in  future  seasons, 
we  may  say  that  a  thick  over- coat  is  an  absolute  necessity 
From  eleven  o'clock  in  the  morning  until  four  in  the  afternoon 
the  temperature  is  agreeable,  but  not  too  warm;  during  the 
other  hours  of  the  day  and  night  it  will  compare  exactly  with 
our  November.  Coming  from  warmer  climates,  the  tourist  can 
not  be  too  careful  to  prepare  for  sudden  changes  of  tempera 
ture.  We  can  not  close  our  imperfect  sketch  of  the  Saguenay 
without  a  word  of  thanks  to  Capt.  Simard,  who  commands  the 
Bteamer  Saguenay.    To  our  numerous  questions  he  politely  I9» 


ANTIC08TI.  2G9 

tamed  ws  full  ftnd  satisfuctory  answers,  an<l  wo  aro  j?roally 
inilol)tc'!  to  him  for  imicli  valuiiblo  information  W«  corlially 
commenii  hira  and  his  lx)at  to  tlio  attontions  of  all  American 
travelers  who  may  luM'eaftor  visit  Q'^eboc.  From  all  classus  of 
Canadians,  both  French  and  En{;;lish,  wo  mot  with  the  politest 
treatment,  and  can  vouoh  for  thoir  hospitality  and  goo  I- will. 
In  conversation  with  niimer')US  intollinfnt  p;>rsoiis  fi-om  <iii';l)  'O 
and  Montreal,  wo  discover  that  the  American  chara-tor  is 
greatly  a<lmir^»d  in  Canada,  and  an  earnest  hop(3  is  indulged 
tiiat  the  amic.ible  commerci:il  relations  now  in  proc^'ss  of  Ibr- 
niation  between  the  two  countries  will  tend  to  introduce  some 
of  our  finer  national  characteristics  into  Canadian  ati'airs. 
While  they  are  eminently  loyal  to  their  sovereign,  they  yet  ro- 
joice  in  the  active  eni'rgy  of  the  Yankee  race,  and  esteem  it  a 
privilege  to  live  in  such  close  juxtaposition  to  a  nationality 
whose  rapid  rise  and  hardy  vigor  reflect  honor  on  the  An;jjlo- 
Saxon  blood.  The  kindly  feeling  beyond  doubt  is  reciprocated 
in  the  United  States,  and  that,  too,  from  a  nobler  motive  than 
commercial  and  mercantile  gain — from  the  fraternal  feeling 
insoparabla  from  nations  descended  from  a  common  stock. 
Whether  or  not  the  time  will  ever  come  when  Colonial  ('anada 
will  be  a  sovereign  State,  and  part  of  our  rapidly  exi)anding 
confederacy,  remains  to  be  seen.  If  the  course  of  events  siiould 
take  such  a  turn,  we  will  acquire  a  territory  rich  in  mineral 
and  agricultural  resources,  «nd  one  geographically  adapted 
for  unexampled  greatness;  if  not,  we  are  sure  of  a  faith (iil  ally 
and  a  firm  unwavering  friend."  J.  M.  Q. 


ANTICOSTI.      ^ 


Anticosti,  about  100  miles  below  Quebec,  i  ^a-'-ge  and  im- 
portant island  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  lyiw.  \S.W.  and 
E.S.E.,  in  the  widest  part  of  its  estuary,  between  the  meridians 
of  61°  45'  and  04°  15'  W.,  and  dividing  the  entrance  of  the  river 
into  two  channels,  from  twenty  to  forty  miles  in  width.  It  is  aboul 
125  miles  in  length ;  its  extreme  breadth  is  30  miles ;  its  super- 
ficial area  1,530.000  acres.  Its  surface  is  in  general  low,  and 
covered  with  forests  of  stunted  fir,  white  cedar,  and  poplar,  or 
alluvial  flats  clothed  with  cranberry  and  blueberry  bushes  ;  but 
the  timber  is  of  inferior  quality,  and  the  soil  is  mostly  poor. 
Bears,  foxes,  hares,  martins,  sea-otters,  partridges,  curlews, 
plover,  and  snipe  are  numerous.  The  geological  formation  is  a 
shell  limestone  mi^ed  with  clay,  and  in  some  places  wholly  com 


^70  ANTIC08TI. 

posed  of  encrinites.  The  northern  coast  is  bold  and  high,  pre- 
«enting  magnificent  limestone  cliffs,  which  sometimes  rise  to  tho 
height  of  500  feet.  The  severity  of  the  climate  is  so  great  that 
any  grain  is  usually  nipped  in  the  hud.  In  the  month  of  June, 
ice  of  considerable  thickness  is  frequently  formed  during  the 
night ;  and  summer  is  always  far  advanced  before  the  snow  dis- 
appears. Winter  commences  in  the  early  part  of  November, 
and  continues  till  the  middle  of  March ;  the  thermometer  rang- 
ing during  this  season  from  20°  above  to  20°  below  zero.  The 
ehores  are  then  surrounded  with  ice,  and  all  communication 
with  them  is  cut  off.  Its  shores  present  a  few  small  creeks,  but 
throughout  an  extent  of  300  miles  there  is  neither  bay  nor  har- 
bor sufficient  to  protect  ships ;  while  the  powerful  stream  setting 
constantly  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  shoals  which  surround 
this  island,  and  the  heavy  snow-storms  which  here  occur  in  the 
fall  of  tlie  year,  with  its  position  across  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
render  it  the  frequent  scene  of  shipwrecks,  and  the  sailing  past 
it  ■'  the  worst  part  of  the  voyage  to  or  from  Canada."  (iionny- 
castle. )  "  The  bearings  of  its  extreme  points  are  as  follows :  west 
point,  N.  lat.  49°  52  29",  W.  long.  64°  36'  54";  variation  22'' 
65'  W.  East  point,  N.  lat.  49°  8'  30",  W.  long.  61°  44'  56"; 
variation  24°  38'  W.  North  point,  N.  lat.  49°  57'  38",  W.  long. 
65°  14'  1".  Southwesttpoint,  N.  lat.  49°  23',  W.  long.  63-^  43' 
An  elevated  and  magnificent  light-house,  with  a  revolving  light, 
now  occupies  this  point  of  the  island;  and  another  has  been 
erected  on  the  E.  coast.  Spring  tides  rise  ten  feet ;  neaps,  seven 
feet.  This  island  formerly  belonged  to  Labrador,  but  was  an- 
nexed to  Lower  Canada  in  1826,  and  now  forms  part  of  the 
county  of  Saguenay.  Its  name  is  probably  a  corruption  of  the 
Indian  name  A'aticostee.  It  is  first  noticed  in  1535,  by  Cartier, 
who  gave  it  the  name  of  Assumption."     (Bouchette.) 

Gulf  of  St.  Lawrenck. — On  passing  along  the  south  side 
of  the  island  of  Anticosti,  entering  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
the  shores  of  Gaspe  are  seen  in  the  distance.  This  is  an  im- 
portant district  and  headland,  jutting  out  into  tho  Gulf,  and 
running  round  into  the  Bay  of  flhaleurs,  comprehending  350 


GULF   OP    BT.    LAWRENCE.  271 

miles  of  coast ;  the  whole  extent  is  said  to  abound  with  fish  of 
different  kinds,  and  daring  the  fishing  season  a  large  number  . 
of  vessels  and  men  are  engaged  in  taking  and  curing  fish  for 
exportation. 

Below  where  the  Saguenay  joins  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  dis» 
tance  from  shore  to  shore  across  the  latter  stream  exceeds 
twenty  miles,  and  the  width  goes  on  increasing  till  it  expands 
to  forty  miles,  from  Cape  Chatto  to  Cape  des  Monts  Pelles,  some 
three  hundred  miles  below  Quebec.  From  thence  it  goes  on  still 
further  expanding,  till  it  reaches  the  breadth  of  about  .120  miles 
from  shore  to  shore,  in  a  line  drawn  from  the  extreme  point  of 
Gaspe  due  north  across  the  western  edge  of  the  island  of  Anti- 
costi,  and  so  on  to  the  coast  of  Labrador. 

The  grand  trip  from  the  Upper  Lakes  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence is  thus  spoken  of  by  a  late  writer,  on  terminating  the 
voyage:  "Through  this  magnificent  mouth  of  the  river  we 
passed  into  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence^  having  thus  traced  the 
noble  stream,  from  the  island  of  Mackinac,  in  the  strait  of 
Michilimackinac,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Huron,  down  to  the  island 
of  Anticosti,  a  distance  of  at  least  2,000  miles,  through  a  chain 
of  the  most  splendid  lakes  in  the  world,  and  with  almost  every 
variety  of  scenery  along  its  majestic  course." 


PEOPOSED   CANAL   FPwOM  THE   HEAD  OF  NAVIGATION  ON 
THE  SAGUENAY   KIVER  TO  LAKE  ST.  JOHN. 

A  MEETING  was  recently  held  at  Ha-Ha  Bay,  on  the  Sague- 
nay, for  the  purpose  of  agitating  for  the  construction  of  a 
ship  canal  between  that  interesting  village  and  the  Lake  St. 
John.  The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake  is  covered  with 
valuable  limber,  and  is  eminently  adapted  for  settlement, 
while  the  streams  abound  in  sabiion,  trout,  and  other  kinds  of 
lish  of  a  delicious  flavor. 


U^:: 


272      RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTES. 

RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTES, 

From  Nkw  York  to  Niagara  Falls,  Toronto,  Montreal,  Que- 
bec, arul  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  forming  a 
round  trip  ])y  returning  via  Portland  and  Boston  to  Now  York  ; 
or  vid  Lake  Champlain. 

^  Routes  and  Distances. 

New  York  to  Albany,  steamboat  route 150  miles. 

Albany  to  Niagara  Falls,  railroad  route 806  '* 

Niagara  Falls  to  Toronto,  Canada,  steamboat  route. . .  50      ** 

Toronto  to  Montreal,  railroad  or  steamer 333  ** 

Montreal  to  Quebec,         «•              ♦♦      170  **     . 

Quebec  or  Montreal  to  "White  M'ts,  railroad  route  . .  ^02  ** 

White  Mountains  to  Portland,  Me.,      '*        "      ..  91  «* 

Portland  to  Boston,                                 ♦'         '*      . .  108  " 

Boston  to  New  York,  railroad  and  steamer 280  ** 

Total  Distance 1,640  miles. 

Returning  via  Lake  Champlain. 

New  York  to  Montreal,  via  Niagara  Falls 839  miles. 

Montreal  to  Saratoga  Springs 213      ** 

Saratoga  Springs  to  New  York 182      " 

Total  Distance 1,234  miles. 

New  York  to  Montreal,  via  Syracuse  and  Oswego. 

New  York  to  Syracuse,  railroad  route 298  mileS. 

Syracuse  to  Oswego,  *'        **     35      ** 

Oswego  to  Cape  Vincent,  or  the  "  Thousand  Isl- 
ands,'' steamJxKit  rmUe 60      " 

Tliousand  Islands  to  Ogdensburgh 65      '* 

Ogdensburgh  to  Montreal 120      '*     , 

Total  Distance,  New  York  to  Montreal 578  miles. 

Eeturniug"  via  Lake  George  and  Saratoga  Springs  .  400     '* 

.  Total  Distance,  round  Trip 978  nules. 


'''  '\ 


GRAXD  PLEASURE  EXCURSION 

FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  NIAGARA  FAUS,  TORONTO, 
MONTREAL,  ETC. 


.*,  

Pleasure  travelers  leaving  New  York  at  7  o'clock  a.m.,  ot 
6  o'clock  V.M.,  by  steamboats  running  on  the  Hudson  River, 
can  leave  Albany  almost  immediately  after  their  arrival,  and 
proceed  direct  to  Schetifctadi/,  17  miles;  UticOt  95  miles; 
JRomej  109  miles ;  or  Syracuse,  148  miles  from  Albany,  via 
New  York  Central  Railroad. 

At  Schenectady  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  Railroad 
commences  and  extends  north  to  Saratoga  Springs,  22  miles. 

At  Utica  the  Black  River  and  Utica  Railroad  commences 
and  extends  north,  16  miles,  to  Trenton  Falls,  and  thence  to 
Boonville,  a  total  distance  of  85  miles.  The  above  railroad, 
when  finished,  will  run  to  Clayton,  situated  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence River,  109  miles  from  Utica. 

At  Rome  commences  the  Watertown  and  Rome  Railroad, 
extending  northward  to  Cape  Vincent,  97  miles,  forming  a 
direct  line  of  travel  to  Kingston  and  other  places  in  Canada. 

At  Syracuse  the  New  York  Central  Railroad  is  intersected 
by  the  Syracuse  and  Binghamton  Railroad  and  Oswego  and 
Syracuse  Railroad;  the  latter  railroad  running  north  to  the 
city  of  Oswego,  35  miles.  Fare  from  Albany  to  Syracuse,  $3. 
Usual  time,  6  hours.  Fare  from  Syracuse  to  Oswego,  $1. 
Usual  time,  one  hour  and  thirty  minutes. 

Travelers  can  proceed  by  railroad  to  Rochester,  81  miles  from 
Syracuse,  and  there  take  a  steamer  for  Toronto  or  Lewiston,  or 
proceed  direct  through  Lockport  to  the  Suspensioti  Bridge  or 
JViagara  Falls.  From  Niagara  Falls,  passengers  desiring  to 
go  to  Montreal  or  Quebec  are  conveyed  by  steamer  from  Lewis- 
ton  or  Niagara,  Can  ,  through  Lake  Ontario  to  Kingston  or 
Cape  Hncent,  and  thence  down  the  St.  Lawrence  River 

15* 


274  PLEASURE    EXCUU8ION8. 

Another  new  and  favorite  mode  of  traveling  for  those  who 
wish  to  avoid  the  lake  travel  is  to  proceed  to  Toronto,  and  take 
the  cars  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  for  Kingston.  There 
take  an  American  or  British  steamer  for  Montreal. 


Steamers  of  a  large  class  run  daily  from  Oswego  morning 
and  afternoon.  The  morning  boats  leave  Oswego  lor  Sacket's 
Harbor,  Kingston,  Ogdensburgh,  etc. ;  while  the  afternoon  boats 
run  direct  to  ('harlotte,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee  IJiver,  and 
from  thence  direct  for  Toronto,  Lcwiston,  etc.,  affording  trav- 
elers a  choice  of  routes  if  going  unst  to  Detroit,  Chicago,  etc., 
or  if  proceeding  north  to  Kingston,  Montreal,  etc.  Pleasure 
travelers  ar  j  also  conveyed  direct  to  Niagara  Falls,  Buffalo,  etc. 

Sackkt's  Harbor,  45  miles  from  Oswego,  is  the  first  place 
at  which  the  passenger  boats  .  ^op  to  land  and  receive  passen- 
gers ;  usual  time,  3  hours. 

Kingston,  40  miles  farther,  is  usually  reached  in  about  the 
same  time,  where  passengers  can  stop,  or  proceed  direct  down 
the  St.  Lawrence  River,  passing  the  "  Thousand  Islands"  and 
magnificent  rapids  by  daylight. 

The  American  steamers,  on  leaving  Kingston,  run  through 
the  Kingston  Channel  to  Clayton  or  French  Creek,  and  theuoe 
to  Ogdensburgh.  The  British  steamers  run  on  the  north  or 
Canadian  Channel,  stopping  at  Gananoque,  Brockville,  Pres- 
cott,  etc. ,  on  the  downward  and  upward  trips. 

Kingston  being  the  best  point  for  pleasure  travelers  to  start 
from  in  order  to  see  the  "  Thousand  ^slarids"  to  advantage,  we 
subjoin  the  following  description  of  the  trip  to  Prescott  and 
Ogdensburgh,  performed  in  June,  1857.  The  American  steam- 
ers leave  Kingston  at  about  3  o'clock  p.m.,  descending  the  St. 
Lawrence,  stopping  at  Ogdensburgh,  62  miles ;  while  the  Brit- 
ish mail  line  of  steamers  leave  at  6  o'clock  a.m.,  running 
through  to  Montreal,  180  miles,  by  daylight. 

On  leaving  Kingston  the  steamer  runs  between  Howe  and 
Qiaud  Lilands,  both  belonging  to  Canada,  for  a  distance  of 


PLEASURE    EXCUR8ICK8.  2*75 


'the  f( 


abont  15  milos.  When  at  the  foot  of  the  former  inland,  the 
Bteamer  veers  westward,  passing  through  a  beautiful  group  of 
small  islands,  and  approaches  Gananoque,  20  miles  from 
Kingston.  Several  light-houses  or  beacons  have  recently  been 
erected  by  the  ( 'anadian  authorities  to  mark  this  intricate  channel. 

Other  beautiful  groups  of  islands  are  passed  below  Gana- 
noque,  wlien  the  Fiddler's  Elbow  is  approached,  12  miles  dis- 
tant.    Here  is  a  light-house  and  another  group  of  small  islands. 

Alexandria  Bay,  34  miles  below  Kingston,  is  passed  in 
sight  on  the  right,  the  British  steamer  passing  through  the 
middle  channel  of  the  river.  This  favorite  summer  resort  is 
reached  by  the  American  line  of  steamers. 

The  Siste?-s  and  Scotch  Bonnet  are  a  pretty  group  of  islands 
situated  in  the  middle  channel,  some  8  or  10  miles  above  Brock- 
ville.  Here  the  stream  of  the  river  begins  to  narrow,  and  soon 
the  labyrinth  of  islands  are  passed  by  the  descending  steamer. 

The  pleasure  is  greatly  enhanced  by  an  observing  traveler  to 
vary  his  routes,  when  an  opportunity  oflFers,  in  voyaging  through 
the  Lakes  and  down  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  thus  not  only 
afifording  an  opportunity  to  see  the  different  points  of  interest 
on  the  route,  but  also  see  a  different  class  of  passengers — the 
Southern  planter,  the  Northern  financier,  and  the  English  or 
French  Canadian  resident,  each  possessing  distinctive  charac- 
ters ;  while  the  intelligent  ladies  are  always  alike  attractive. 

Brock VI i.LE,  52  miles  below  Kingston,  is  a  fine  Canadian 
town,  situated  immediately  below  the  commencement  of  the 
Thousand  Islands.  The  Brockville  and  Ottawa  Railroad^  now 
in  progress  of  construction,  will  afford  a  direct  and  speedy 
route  to  the  Upper  Ottawa  country. 

Prescott  and  Ogdensburgh,  12  miles  below  Brockville,  are 
important  towns  situated  opposite  each  other,  beipg  closely  con- 
nected by  two  steam  ferries.     Here  navigation  for  sail  vessels  • 
may  be  said  to  termina'-e,  while  Bteamers  descend  the  rapids 
with  the  utmost  safety. 

For  a  further  description  of  the  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrencet 
see  pages  169  and  174. 


270  PLEASURE    EXCURSIONS. 


•*'fi% 


TRIP  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC. 

On  arriving  at  Montroal,  one  of  tho  most  important  and  in- 
teresting towns  in  Canada,  the  traveler  has  a  choice  of  hotels, 
where  every  desired  comfort  can  be  obtained,  Tlie  drive 
round  the  city  and  the  mountain  is  one  of  great  interest,  and 
should  be  enjoyed  by  every  intelligent  traveler.  The  objects 
of  interest  are  numerous  and  picturesque. 

On  leaving  Montreal  by  steamer,  or  via  the  Grand  TVunk 
Railway,  the  journey  is  one  of  varied  interest ;  by  the  latter 
route  passing  over  the  Victoria  Bridge,  one  of  the  grandest 
structures  of  its  kind  in  America.  Tf  by  steamer,  after  leav- 
ing the  wharf,  St  Helen's  Ida7id,  a.  military  depot,  is  soon  pass- 
ed, being  in  part  covered  Avith  a  rich  growth  of  forest-trees, 
while  the  fort  and  buildings  on  the  nortli  end  are  seen  to  ad- 
vantage. 

A  number  of  low  islands  are  next  passed  on  descending  the 
stream,  when  the  beautiful  village  of  Varennes  is  soon  reached 
and  passed,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream.  Here  is 
a  mineral  spring  of  some  celebrity  and  a  good  public  house. 

The  north  point  of  the  island  of  Montreal  and  northern 
branch  of  the  Ottawa  River  are  passed  about  16  miles  below 
Montreal,  where  are  to  be  seen  several  picturesque  islands, 
concealing  in  part  the  mouth  of  the  Ottawa. 

Here  the  St.  Lawrence  assumes  its  most  majestic  appearance 
for  a  stretch  of  several  miles,  the  stream  being  from  two  to 
four  miles  in  width — flowing  onward  in   majestic   grandeur 
with  here  and  there  a  square-rigged  sail  vessel  and  immense 
timber  rafts,  such  as  are  alone  seen  on  the  lower  St.  Lawrence 
being  on  their  way  to  Quebec  from  the  Ottawa  River.  -r.^.r 

Before  reaching  Sorel,or  William  Henry,  the  stream  coutractp 
to  about  one  mile  in  width,  with  more  elevated  banks.  The 
river  Richelieu,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain,  enters  the  St 


PLEASURE    EXCURSIONS. 


277 


Lawrence  at  Soref,  or  IVilli'im  Henry,  15  miles  bcloTv  Mon- 
treal, tliis  being  the  first  regulir  Ian  rm<:5  for  the  Koyal  Mall 
Line.  Here  is  situated  an  old  and  linndsomo  town,  enlivonod 
by  lingl  sh  and  French  residents  and  the  busy  Yankee,  who  is 
slowly  making  liis  way  into  the  lower  Province  of  Canada. 

After  leaving  Sovcl  a  number  of  islands  are  again  passed, 
and  the  steamer  soon  enters  the  broad  waters  of  Lake  »S/.  Fcttr, 
an  expansion  of  the  Ht.  Lawrence.  Here  again  the  s(iuare-rig- 
ged  vessels,  the  timl^cr  rafts,  and  the  more  fleet  sleamor  may 
often  be  seen  threading  their  way  up  or  down  the  river. 

Thrte  Rioersy  90  miles  below  Montreal  and  80  miles  above 
Quebec,  is  an  old  and  important  town,  being  a.dvantageously 
situate(^l  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Maurice,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  river. 

This  is  considered  the  head  of  tide-waters  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence, although  the  Richelieu  Rapids  are  below,  where  is  a 
strong  current  when  the  tide  is  receding,  the  river  flowing  over 
a  rocky  and  dangerous  cliannel  for  several  miles— -the  stream 
alternately  running  to  the  right  and  the  left,  with  b:inks  some- 
what elevated.  Point  aux  Trembles,  on  the  left  bank,  is  a 
bold  headland,  which,  when  passed,  the  stream  again  widens 
for  a  number  of  miles — the  shores  for  the  entire  distance  of 
170  miles  being  dotted  with  picturesque  residences  of  the  French 
habitans  and  churches  of  the  Roman  Catholic  persuasion. 

Cape  Rouge,  10  miles  above  Quebec,  is  another  interesting 
point,  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  Next  comes  in 
sight  Point  Levi  and  the  frowning  fortress  of  Quebec — then 
opens  the  Lower  Town,  with  its  numerous  shipping,  its  steam- 
tugs,  and  ferry-boats — altogether  aifording,  during  the  summer 
months,  one  of  the  most  grand  and  enlivening  scenes  to  be  wit- 
nessed on  the  continent  of  America. 

Without  entering  into  a  description  of  Quebec,  which  is  fully 
described  in  its  proper  place,  we  will  allude  to  the  hotels  now 
open  for  the  accommodation  of  tourists.  Russell's  Hotel  in 
Palace  Street,  Upper  Town,  is  an  old,  popular  house  ;  while  the 
Bt.  Louis  Hotel,  kept  by  W.  Russell,  Lewis  Street,  near  the 


2V8  PLKASURK    EXCURSIONS. 

Durham  Tormco,  is  a  now  and  popular  resort  for  pl(  isure  seek- 
ers visitinj^  Quebec. 

TFioro  arc  several  other  good  hotels  in  both  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Town,  wliile  Norman's  Victoria  Hotel  at  Point  Levi,  op- 
posite Quebec,  is  also  a  favorite  resort  for  both  English  and 
Amor:c;in  visitors.  It  is  situated  near  the  terminus  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  from  whence  steamers  are  almost  con- 
stantly crosainj  to  Quebec,  affording  an  opportunity  to  see  tho 
fortress  and  city,  together  with  the  adjacent  country,  from 
Cape  Rouge  to  the  island  of  Orleans. 

The  trip  from  Quebec  to  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  Sague- 
nay  Rivers  is  fully  described  in  another  part  of  this  work. 
See  page  253. 


KETURN    TO    MONTREAL. 


O.N  leaving  Quebec  for  Montreal,  via  Grand  Trunk  Railway, 
passengers  c^n  proceed  at  G  a.m.  or  4  p.m.,  crossing  the  St. 
Lawrence  by  stoam^sr  to  Point  Levi,  one  or  two  miles  distant. 
Near  the  depot  is  si' uated  the  Victoria  Hotel,  a  well-kept  pub- 
lic house,  surrounded  by  iiandsome  grounds. 

This  is  a  unjst  spo;>dy  route,  the  cars  going  through  from  city 
to  city  in  f3ix  l-ours ;  1 70  miles.  The  first  station  is  the  Chaitdiere 
Junctiim,  8  mites  from  Point  Levi;  here  the  Chaudicre  River 
is  passed  a  few  rods  above  the  romantic  falls  on  this  stream,  the 
spray  arising  from  the  waters  alone  being  visible  from  the  cars. 
For  the  next  40  or  60  miles  the  country  is  level  and  uninviting, 
with  only  a  few  residences  in  sight,  being  for  the  most  part 
clothed  with  a  stunted  forest. 

Si'ANFoL-r),  65  miles  from  Point  Levi,  is  a  small  settlement 
surrounded  by  good  farming  land,  which  continues  until  War- 
wick, Danville,  and  Richmond  are  reached  and  passed.  At  the 
latter  station  tho  passenger  trains  usually  connect  with  trains 
from  Portland  and  Montreal,  making  this  an  important  point 
on  this  great  railway  of  Canada.  Passengers  bound  for  tho 
White  Mountains  or  Portland  Me  there  shange  car*.     :,  ,      ., 


PLEASURE    KXCUR8I0NB,  279 

After  leaving  Richmond  for  Montre.il,  the  lino  of  tho  road 
desueud.s  toward  the  St.  Lawrence,  passing  thruu};h  several 
thriving  villages. 

ISr.  IIyacinthe,  30  miles  from  Montreal,  is  handsomely  sit- 
uated on  the  Yamaska  iliver,  about  40  miles  above  its  entranoe 
ini-o  the  Lake  St.  Peter. 

St.  IIiLAiKn,  17  miles  from  Longneuil,  is  another  delightful 
village,  situated  near  Beloeil  Mountain,  a  bold  emijience  rising 
from  the  plain  to  near  one  thousand  feet  in  height,  being  plainly 
seen  from  Montreal.  A  most  beautiful  lake  lies  near  its  sum- 
mic ;  the  outlet  flows  westward  into  the  Sorel  Iliver. 

Other  hills  or  mountains  are  seen  in  this  vicinity  besides  the 
one  above  mentioned.  Mount  Rouge  and  Mount  Johnson  rise 
on  the  south,  while  Bouchervillc  Mountain,  also  adorned  by  a 
most  beautiful  lake,  lies  a  few  miles  northwest  of  St.  llilaire, 
forming  altogether  a  most  interesting  and  picturesque  group 
of  hills  or  mountains,  being  visible  from  the  St.  Lawrence 
River  for  many  miles,  which,  in  connection  with  Mount  Royal, 
on  iho  island  of  Montreal,  are  most  grand  and  attractive  obj  jcts 
to  tiie  observant  traveler. 

The  Sorel  or  Richelieu  River,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Charaplain, 
is  next  passed,  and  the  traveler  soon  arrives  at  Lon^uevil, 
where  a  commodious  steam  ferry-boat  plies  regularly  to  and 
from  Montreal,  landing  near  the  center  of  the  city,  where  cabs 
and  carriages  are  always  to  be  found  in  readiness  running  to 
the  different  hotels. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  also  affords  the  most  speedy  and 
diroct  route  to  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  aa 
well  as  to  the  Ottawa  River  and  Upper  St.  Lawrence  and  Lake 
co^intry. 

Montreal  to  Island  Pond,  Vt 143  milesl 

Montreal  to  White  Mountains,  N.  H 201     " 

Montreal  to  Portland,  Me 292    ** 

Montreal  to  Prescott,  C.  W 113  milea. 

!^Iontreal  to  Ottawa  City,  via  Prescott 107     ** 

Montreal  to  Toronto,  C.  W 333    ** 


280  PLEASURE    EXCURSIONS. 


MONTREAL  TO  BOSTON   AJND  NEW   YORK. 

Passengers  can  leave  Montreal  for  Bos.on  or  New  York, 
and  proceed,  via  Champlain  and  St.  Lawrence  Railruaii,  to 
Rouse's  I'oint,  N.  Y.,  a  di.stanco  of  46  miles,  where  tliey  have 
tlio  choice  of  proceeding  by  steamer  to  Plattsburgh,  Burling- 
ton, etc.,  or  take  the  cara  of  the  Vermont  and  Canada  Rail- 
road, and  proceed  direct  through  by  rail  to  Boston  or  NeW 
York,  or  any  intermediate  station. 

Trains  of  cars  also  run  twice  daily  from  Montreal,  via  Mon- 
treal and  Lac/line  and  Montreal  and  JVew  York  Railroadity 
direct  to  Plattsburgh,  N.  Y.,  a  distance  of  G2  miles,  here  con- 
necting with  steamers  running  to  Burlington,  Ticonderoga,  and 
Whitehall. 

On  arriving  at  Burlington  by  auy  of  the  above  routes,  pas- 
sengers h.ave  the  choice  of  proceeding  by  steamer,  or  take  the 
cars  of  the  Vermont  Central  Railroad,  if  bound  for  the  White 
Mountains  or  Boston ;  while  the  Rutland  and  Burlington  Rail' 
road  runs  both  toward  Boston  and  New  York,  forming  a  link  in 
the  great  line  of  railroads  running  from  the  Eastern  and  North- 
ern States  into  Canada. 

On  leaving  Burlington  by  steamer,  proceeding  toward  White- 
hall, a  most  magnificent  view  is  obtained,  in  a  clear  day,  of  the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  and  the  Adirondack  Group  of 
New  York,  lying  in  the  ccunties  of  Essex  and  Clinton.  The 
latter  are  the  most  elevated  peaks,  rising  to  the  height  of  6,467 
feet  above  the  ocean;  while  the  Mansfield  Mountain  peak  of 
Vermont  rises  to  the  height  of  4,279  feet,  there  being  lesser 
peaks  on  both  sides  of  the  lake  in  full  view.  The  surface  of 
Lake  Champlain  is  elevated  90  feet  above  tide-waters  of  the 
ocean,  while  Lake  George  is  elevated  243  feet — there  being  a 
fall  of  163  in  the  outlet  of  the  latter  lake  within  the  distance 
of  4  miles.  « 

Lake  Champlain  and  the  landings  on  its  shore  are  fully  de- 
acribed  in  a  preceding  part  of  this  work.    See  page  201.    •'   , 


RAILROAD     ROUTES.  281 

ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  ROSTON 

Railroad    Route   via   Vkkmo.nt   Centhal    and    NouTUEaK 

(N.  H.)  Railroads. 

MoxNTrkal  to  Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y 44  miles. 

House's  Point  to  Montpelier,  Vt 82      ♦» 

Montpelier  to  White  River  Junction^ 02      '* 

White  River  Junctiou  to  Concord,  N.  H (59      ** 

'     CoxNUOKD  to  Boston Tli      '* 

Total  Distance 330  miles. 


MONTREAL  TO  BOSTON,  via  BURLINGTON,  RUTLAND,  AND 

BELLOWS     FALLS. 

Montreal  to  Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y 44  miles. 

Rouse's  Point  to  Rurliiii2:ton,  Vt 5()  " 

Burlington  to  Rutland,  Vt 07  ** 

Rutla  id  t',.  IJellows  Falls 52  '♦ 

(Passing  over  the  Green  Mountains.) 

Bellows  Falls  to  Fitchburg,  Mas« 64  ** 

FiTCHBURG  to  Boston 50  " 

Total  Distance 333  miles. 


ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  NEW  YORK,  via 
THE  VERMONT  CENTRAL  AND  CONNECTICUT  VALLET 
EAILUOADS. 

Montreal  to  Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y 44  miles. 

Rouse's  Point  to  White  lUver  Junction 144  ** 

"*'  (Passing  over  the  Grreen  Mountiiins.) 

V  White  River  Junction  to  Bellows  Falls 40  " 

(Passing  down  the  Connecticut  Valley.) 

Bellows  Falls  to  Springrield,  Mass 95  •* 

Springtield  to  New  Haven,  Conn 02  ** 

New  Haven  to  New  York 76  '* 

,  Total  Distance 4(il  miles. 

*  Connects  with  Railroad  Route  to  the  White  Mountains,  and  Roads 
ruaning  Souib  to  Springfield,  and  New  Haven. 


282  RAILROAD    ROUTES. 

EAILROAI)  ROUTE,  via  KOTJSK'B   POINT,  BURLINGTON,  BUT- 
LAND,  AND  TKOY,  TO  NEW  YOUK, 

MoNTiiKAL  U)  Uouhk'h  I'oint,  N.  Y 44  mil(^s. 

RouHo's  Point  to  Hurliiif^toii,  Vt fS      " 

Burlington  to  Jtutland,  Vt.* 07      ** 

Ruthiiid  to  Troy,  N.  Y 84 

Troy  to  Albany,  {Railrond  or 6 

Aluany  to  Nkw  York,  Sleamb'xd  Route) 144 


it 


Total  Distance 401  railca. 


ROUTE   FROM   MONTREAL   AND    QUEBEC  TO    THE    WHITE 

MOUNTAINS  AND    PORTLAND,    ME.,  via  THE   GRAND 

TRUNK   RAILWAY. 

PasHcngers  cars  leave  Montre  il  and  Qiieliec,  twice  daily,  for 
Portland,  C()nn(!(tin;<  at  Hicii.hom),  0,  E.,  'i'.\  niilcjs  from 
Montreal  ;  froin  thence  proceed  southeasterly  through  Shcr 
brooke,  an  inip(/riant  town  of  ( !anada,  to  Ihlam)  Pond,  V.;. 
Here  is  a  larsi^e  public-housi;  for  the  accommodation  of  travel- 
ers, where  <;very  desiied  luxury  and  comfort  can  be  found. 

The  road  continues  through  Vermorit  and  New  Hampshire, 
until  tJKj  WiMTB  Mountains  are  readied  and  j)aKsed  ;  tlie  cars 
stoppirig  at  Goiuiam  to  Umd  an<l  receive  i)assengers.  Here  Ib 
a  W(dl-k(!i)t  holt;!,  called  tlu*  Alpine  floune 

Stacks  leave  (jorham  on  tht^  arrival  of  the  cars  for  the  Glen 
Home,  pasning  up  the  valley  of  Peabody  River,  a  mountain 
Btrc;un,  which  affords  many  |)lcturcs([ue  and  romantic  views. 

Th(!  Grand  Trunk  Railway  j)ass«'s  through  th(;  Copper  and 
Gold  R(!Ldon  of  Carifida  I'last,  affording  tourists  a  tine  oppor- 
tunity to  explore  the  surrounding  country,  being  alike  cele- 
brated for  a  lie.dthy  climat<;  and  rich  mineral  productions. 

Acton,  C.  E.,  TjO  miles  from  M^itreal,  is  one  of  the  most 
noted  mineral  localities  where!  copper  is  found,  while  deposita 
of  gold  (!xten<l  ovcu-  a  large  rc-ion  of  country  along  the  line  of 
the  Grand  Trunk  Riilway.  The  (Jhaudiere  Uiver  and  its  trib- 
utaries are  the  most  not(;d  localities  for  gold,  while  the  St. 
Francis  Riv(;r.  Magog  iviver,  and  Massawippi  River,  and 
streams  llowing  ir»to  the  above  rivers,  are  supposed  to  contain 
rich  deposits  of  the  ])recious  nu;tal. 

Passengfus  leaving  Portland,  Me.,  are  afforded  an  equally 
favorable  opportunity  to  visit  the  White  Mountain  region. 

"" ^ »     ■■   '• 

*  Kailroad  fioute  to  Boston,  via  Bellows  Falls. 


WIIITK    MOUNTAINS    OF    NEW    IIAMPSHIHK.  283 


i 


WIIITK  MOIiNTAIXS  OF  U\\  IIAMPSIIIIIH. 

'*  NoTiiiNO  in  the  United  States  so  nearly  approaches  the 
wild  scenery  of  Switzerland  au  the  Alpine  re^^ion  of  New 
Hunipsiiire  More  loveiinesK  may  be  found  anioiifr  tlic;  beauti- 
ful vulleyK  and  villa^eH  of  New  England — th'j  traveler  may 
better  r(!alize  his  visions  of  the  picturescpie  in  the  varied 
scenery  of  the  Ilud)Son  -may  he  filh^d  with  greater  iistonish- 
ment  as  he  stands,  dfiafenerl,  at  the  side  of  Niagara  —may  lind 
more  to  excite  his  wonder  in  the  Great  Lakes,  or  niiglity  St^ 
Lawrence,  and  awe-inspiring  Saguenay — more  to  gratify  his 
love  of  the  beautiful  and  (piiet  combined,  around  the  shores 
and  on  the  silver  waters  of  Lake  George  ;  but  if  he  would  see 
nattwe  in  '  her  dwelling-place  of  magnilicence  and  power' — if 
he  would  behold  '  the  beautiful,  the  grand,  and  the  sublime  in 
commingled  harmony,'  U^t  him  turn  his  steps  toward  this 
'MOUNTAIN  mi;tuoi»olis,'  and  thread  his  way  among  its  winding 
gorges,  or  stand  alone  upf)n  its  solitiry  turrets. 

"  No  distance  here  lends  enchantment  to  the  view.  It  is 
not  the  height  merely  that  im[)resses  and  overpowers  the  bo- 
holder  ;  it  is  the  wonderful  structure  and  conformation  of  these 
rocky  masses,  so  forcibly  leminding  the  traveler  of  the  more 
gigantic  Alps,  it  is  the  wihl  and  stupendous  congregation  of 
mountains- -every wh(Me,  «  pih',  np(m  pile,  peak  busing  peak,' 
rise  tlie  everlasting  hills ;  while  Mount  Washington,  like  aa 
enormous  pyramid,  overtops  the  whole — fitting  throne  of  the 
Indian's  God. 

"Art  here  has  acknowledged  its  inferiority,  and  reverently 
Bt(Jod  uJoof.  TJie  ever  l>usy  han<l  of  man  has  here  felt  its  utter 
•weakness,  and  shrunk  Irom  contact  with  the  handiwork  of 
God. 

"All  here  is  nature,  Ond  alone  could  blend 

Wood,  wind,  and  wavn  in  tiu  lody  »o  s«vect; 
ur.  r .         He,  ho  alon<',  tho  ro(!l<y  ci\fTn  could  bend, 
And  pour  so  bright  a  rivtr  at  tlieir  feel." 

**Leaye,  then,  ye  seekers  after  pleasure  and  comfort,  tho 
duHty  thoroughfares  of  the  city  ;  tlee  from  the  hot  and  crowded 


284         WHITE    MOUNTAINS    OF    NEW    HAMPSHIRE. 

Springs,  where  pride  and  envy  and  disease  congregate  ;  away 
from  the  busy,  jostled  haunts  of  man  ;  away  to  this  mountain- 
land,  and  strengthen  your  enfeebled  frames  with  exhilarating 
draughts  of  pure  mountain  air,  and  refresh  your  care- worn 
souls  wi*^h  Nature,  untarnished  from  the  hands  of  God. 

'*  Go  forth  into  the  fields, 

Ye  dwellers  in  the  clty'8  crowded  mart, 
Go  forth,  and  know  the  influence  nature  yields 
To  sooihe  the  wearied  heart. 

"Leave  ye  ihe  feverish  strife, 

The  jostling,  eages  3eif-dev</ted  throng; 
Ten  ihousaiiO  vuiees,  Avaked  anew  to  lile, 
Call  you  with  sweetest  song." 

"  A  visit  to  the  White  Mountains,  which  once  occupied  so 
large  a  space  of  time,  as  to  make  it  impossible  to  many,  and, 
at  best,  a  hurried  one  to  all,  is  now  made  available  to  every 
one,  by  the  facilities  and  the  cheapness  of  the  many  convey- 
ances at  the  option  of  the  traveler. ' ' 

ASCENT   TO   MOUNT    WASHINGTON 

Starting  from  the  Alpine  House,  situated  on  the  line  of 
the  Grand  Trvmk  Railway,  a  ride  of  eight  miles  by  stage  or 
private  conveyance  takes  passengers  to  the  Glen  House,  sit- 
uated at  the  base  of  Mount  Washington.  The  Cairiage  lioad, 
finished  in  1861,  now  forms  the  siilest  and  most  speedy  mode 
of  conveyance  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  the  distance  being 
eight  miles  in  a  circuitous  route  from  the  Glen  House.  The 
ascent  can  be  made  on  foot,  on  horseback,  or  in  a  light  cov- 
ered wagon ;  whichever  way  may  be  preferred,  parties  can 
Btait  from  either  hotel,  the  charges  being  the  same.  This 
carriage  road,  a  triumph  of  engineering  skill,  furnishes  the 
best  road  in  the  whole  mountain  region ;  the  avemge  grade 
being  twelve  feet  in  one  hundred,  and  tlio  steepest  grade  in 
any  part  is  sixteen  feet  in  one  hundred  for  a  short  distance. 

P'or  the  first  three  or  four  miles  of  the  way,  the  road  winda 
among  the  trees  of  the  forest,  which  cover  the  sides  of  all  the 
mountains,  permitting  only  occasional  glimpses  of  the  moun- 


WHITE  MOUNTAINfi    OF   NEW    HAMPSHIRE.  285 

tain  scenery  around.  At  *' th(;  Lodije,"  the  road  emerges 
from  tlie  forest,  and  the  grandeur  of  the  ascent  liere  begins. 
On  leaving  the  Ledge,  tlie  road  winds  along  the  very  verge  of 
the  deep  ravine  between  Mounts  Washington,  Clay,  and  Jett'er- 
tuni,  the  upper  end  of  which  is  called  th;-  Great  Gulf.  Here 
are  experienced  sensations  peculiar  to  higij  altitudes ;  the 
wind  sweeps  almost  unobstructed  across  the  mountain  petiks. 

A  most  grand  and  surprising  view  is  here  aftbrded  of  Mounts 
Adiniti,  Jeifersou,  and  ^Tadison  ;  they  rise  up  almost  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  enormous  gulfs  at  the  right  hand  of  the 
road,  and  are  visible  from  base  to  crown. 

During  the  last  part  of  the  ascent,  the  view  of  the  world 
below  enlarges  ;  and,  when  arrived  at  the  summit,  a  stupen- 
dous view  is  presented  to  the  gaze  of  the  beholder.  "A  wide- 
spread horizon  of  nearly  six  hundred  miles  bounds  the  pros- 
pect ]  The  lesser  mountain  peaks  stand  on  every  side  as  sen- 
tinels over  the  prisoned  valleys  of  New-England!"  Here 
stands  the  *^  Tip- Top  House,"  and  the  ''Summit  House,"  both 
being  united  under  one  management,  where  guests  can  be 
comfortably  supplied  with  refreshments  and  lodging.  The 
time  in  making  the  ascent  from  the  Glen  to  the  peak  of  Mount 
Washington  is  about  three  hours. 

A  carriage  road  has  also  been  constructed,  running  from 
near  the  Crawford  House,  in  the  Notch,  to  the  base  of  Mount 
Washington  on  its  west  face,  thus  reducing  the  distance  which 
it  is  necessary  to  accomplish  on  foot  or  horseback  from  nine 
miles  to  about  three  miles.  The  distance  from  the  Crawford 
House  to  the  Glen  House,  passing  over  the  summit  of  Mount 
Washington,  is  seventeen  miles  by  the  usual  traveled  route. 

The  following  is  a  description  of  an  ascent  to  Mount  Wash- 
ington from  the  White  SIountain  House  : 

''Having  for  the  first  time  ascended  to  the  summit  of  the 
Wliite  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  I  will  give  you,  for  the 
information  of  your  readers,  an  account  of  the  most  exhila- 
rating and  sublime  excursion  the  country  aifords.  At  nine 
o'clock  A.M.  I  left  the  public  house  in  company  with  a 
iguide,  three  ladies,  six  gentlemen,  and  a  lad  ten  years  of  age 


286         WmXK    MOUNTAINS    OF    NEW   IIAMPSniRE. 

each  provided  with  a  good  h.^rse  to  ride.  After  procooding 
about  three  miles,  for  the  most  put  throui^h  u  dcMise  forest, 
croKsing  and  recrossing  several  times  the  h(>a(l- waters  of  the 
Aramonoosuc  Uiver,  we  diverged  to  the  right  from  F;ibvaii's 
bridle  road  to  Mount  Washington,  and  commenced  ascending 
Mount  Pleasant,  elevated  abtmt  5.000  feet  above  the  ocean. 
The  road  now  became  very  steep  for  two  or  three  miles,  when 
tile  ascent  was  overcome  and  we  stood  on  the  top  of  Mount 
Pleasant.  Here  we  struck  Crawford's  bridle  road,  running 
from  the  Notch  HoUhC,  four  miles  distant,  we  having  (jome 
about  six  miles,  which  took  us  three  hours  to  accomplish. 
We  here  encountered  a  chilly  blast  of  wind,  which  bjought 
all  the  overcoats  and  shawls  into  requisition.  On  the  top  of 
Mount  Pleasant  we  encountered  nothing  but  naked  rocks, 
having  for  some  time  previous  been  above  the  region  of  vege- 
tation. The  route  now  pursued  leads  over  the  summita  of 
Mounts  Franklin  and  Monroe,  toward  Mount  Wiuhington,  all 
being  elevated  from  five  to  six  thousand  feet  above  the  oceii.\ 
and  overlooking  numerous  other  mountain  peaks. 

"The  Lake  of  the  Clouds,  situated  near  the  summit  of  Mount 
Monroe,  is  a  small  body  of  beautiful  clear  water,  which  sup- 
plies the  head  stream  of  the  Ammonoosuc  River.  This  little 
current  immediately  begins  its  descent,  and  dashes  in  a  head- 
long course  of  several  thousand  foot  into  the  valley  below  ;  in 
its  course  uniting  with  several  other  mountain  torrents,  which 
Boon  form  a  considerable  stream. 

"After  a  toilsome  jaunt  of  four  and  a  half  hours,  having 
traveled  {ibout  nine  miles,  we  arrived  at  the  summit  of  Mount 
Washington,  having  for  two  hours  been  above  all  signs  of 
vegetation,  except  occasionally  a  few  plants  of  an  Alpine 
character — nothing  but  flying  clouds  to  be  seen  in  every  di- 
rection— when  they  would  in  part  clear  away  and  reveid  to 
Bight  one  of  the  most  grand  and  extensive  views  imaginable. 
Tlien  could  be  distinctly  seen  rocks  piled  on  roclcs,  and  in- 
numerable mountain  peaks  in  the  distance,  with  occasional 
bodies  of  water  and  silvery  streams  flowing  through  the  val- 
leys. Our  hoi-ses  were  left  about  half  a  mile  from  the  sum- 
mit, although  horses  are  sometimes  taken  to  tlie  very  top ; 
here  wiis  spread  a  cloth  on  a  huge  rock,  and  a  bountiful  re- 
ptist  furnished  by  our  obliging  guide,  the  contents  of  a  well- 
tilled  pair  of  saddle-bags. 

"  After  remaining  on  the  summit  one  hour,  we  commenced 
our  downward  journey,  which  was  all,  except  about  one  mile, 
performed  on  horseback — the  pi\rty  preferring  to  walk  over 
the  most  precipitous  descent.  The  first  three  miles  are  a 
steep  descent,  then  come  about  three  miles  of  swampy  ground, 
the  remaining  three  miles  being  a  good  carriage  or  bridla 
road." 


WHITE    MOUNTAINS    OF    NEW    HAMPSHIRE. 


287 


HEiairr  op  the  principal  jiountains  in  new  enoland. 


MAiNB. 

KataluHa  Mountain., 


Vi  «^i  lib  ik« 
ti.e  Ml  a. 


Baia 

a 

U  1)0.0  me 

H 

Uutoj) 
Aoraliurn 

u 

M 

Aro.ist(tolc 

U 

liulviT's 

liigolow 
tspecliled 

New 

i( 

HAMrSUIUK. 

Mt.  Washin-^ton, 

White  Mts.. 

*'     Adums 

it 

"    Jcffcr.soa 

u 

*'    Mauison 

u 

"    Miiuroe 

♦t 

"    Oiuy 

u   . 

*♦    La  Fayette 

<( 

*'    Caiter 

It 

*'    FruriKlia 

t4 

"    rioasaut 

4« 

"    Mo-iali 

M 

♦♦    Clinton 

« 

"    Jackson 

U 

"     Wib.ster 

«« 

While  Face  Mountain 

6,:300 

4,Di>0 


Feet   aboT« 

tllU  l*f  .1, 

Kcarsage  Mountain 8,0GT 

(  HI  r»8  '*  8,  81 

Ptqitaquct     "  y,boT 

4,000     Guiwock       "  2,4-lT 

a,  }b7     Ossipeo  "  2,y()l 

;),0  U    lied  Hill,  near  Central  Harbor  2,U00 

8,000 

8,400 

8,000 


6,295 
5,800 
5,700 
5,4,0 
5,8iJ0 
.').2U0 
5,200 
4,9i)0 
4,000 
4,800 
4,V00 
4,.;  00 
4,100 
4,000 
4,100 


Vebmont. 

Mansfleld  Mt,,  (the  Chin) ....  4,279 

(Jumol's  Hump  4,l8!J 

Shrewsbury  Mountain 4,0''d 

Mansfleld  Mt.,  (the  Nose)  ..  3,!»-3 

KiJingion  IVak 8,921 

Kquiuux  Mountain 8,706 

Asculney        "  3,820 

Massachcsktts. 

Safldie  Mountan 3,505 

liald  Peali    "       2,624 

Spruce  Hill : .  2,5:^8 

Curksbur^  Mountain .... 2,'.;7i 

Ueckel  '•  i!,i94 

Fniioh's  Hill 2,23» 

reiry's  I'cak.... 2,0S9 

Wacliuset  Mountain 2,018 


Nun.erous  other  pia-«8  of  the  Whit<-  Mouataius  rise  from  8,000  to  4,000 
feci  above  ihe  ocean  level,  prcseaiiig,  frotn  tlie  suiumii  of  Mount  Wash- 
injiiou,  a  iu().st  subu.ne  v  ew.  duriiiji  a  clear  day,  the  scene  being  varied 
by  clou. I  etfeci  and  the  eliauj^c  of  seasons.    For  fur'her  dedcrlplion,  see 

'•E.\S!MAN'H    WlIMK   MOUNTAIN    GUIOK  BOOK." 

Mauie,  iNew  Hampshire,  and  Verniout  may  be  regarded  as  a  nioim- 
taiuous  aeolion  of  couniry  ;  also  the  wesie  n  part  of  Massachuavtfs.  The 
Ortvii  Moantdins  of  Vf.iiiont  are,  however,  the  only  continuous  range; 
tlie  others  may  be  rega'ded  as  groups  and  isolated  mountains,  rising  ia 
solitary  grandeur  from  among  surrounding  hills. 

PRINCIPAL  HOTELS   AT    I'HK   WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 
Name.  Pro]»rietors,  Location. 

Alpine  House Mr.  Hitchcock.  .Goihaiu  station. 

Cravvl'ord  House* Gibb.s  &  Co At  tiie  Notcli. 

Flume  House, Near  Frauconia  Mts. 

Grlon  House  f ..,,....  .J.  M.  Tiiompson.Near  Mt.  Washington 

IMt  Crawford  House Near  Mt.  Crawford.  • 

Piolile  House Richard  Tuft. .  . .  Neax  Mt.  Lafayette. 

Tip-Top  House J.  R.  Hitchcock.Top  Mt  Washiiig-ton. 

White  Mountain H'se.Gr.  T,  Bradrook..N'rAmnionoosuc Falls. 


*  A  bridle  road  runs  from  this  house  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Wash- 
Inptou. 
V     t  A  carriage  road  ruuit  from  \h\&  house  to  tlie  Tip-Top  House,  8  tuilea* 


288  PORTLAND.  I 

LAKE  WINNIPI8I0QEE  AND  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS.      »' 

TiiK  Boston,  Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad,  running  from 
Concord  to  Wells  River,  N.  H.,  forms  the  most  direct  and 
fuvorite  route  to  Lake  Winnipisiogee  and  the  White  Moun- 
tains ;  the  usual  time  being  twelve  hours'  ride  from  Boston  to 
the  Crawford  House,  or  ten  hours  to  Franconia  Notch,  or 
Conway. 

Cars  make  connections  from  Boston,  leaving  Boston  and 
Lowell,  or  Boston  and  Mame  Depots,  connecting  at  Concord,  N.  II., 
affording  a  choice  of  three  routes  to  the  White  Mountains. 

1.  Leaving  the  Cars  at  the  Weirs,  and  taking  the  steamboat 
to  Centre  Harbor,  (dine)  and  by  Stage  arrive  at  Conway  same 
evening,  ten  hours  from  Boston,  proceeding  to  the  Mountains 
next  day. 

2.  Leaving  the  Cars  at  Plymouth,  (dinner)  and  proceeding 
to  Franconia  Notch  by  Stage,  24  miles,  an'iving  same  evening, 
ten  hours  from  Boston. 

8.  Leaving  the  Cars  at  Littleton,  the  head  of  the  White 
Mountains  Railroad,  and  proceeding  by  Stage  to  Crawford 
House,  the  point  of  departure  for  ascending  MOUNT  WASH- 
INGTON, arriving  same  afternoon  at  7.30  p.m.,  and  at  Profde 
House,  Franconia  Notch,  at  5.30  p.m. 

This  route  affords  the  best  opportunity  of  visiting  the  ro- 
mantic LAKE  WINNIPISIOGEE,  on  the  waters  of  which 
the  beautiful  Steamboat  Lady  of  the  Lake,  Cax)t.  Sanborn,  is 
constantly  plying  between  Weirs,*Centre  Harbor,  and  Wolf- 
boro.  Excellent  Hotels,  not  surpassed  in  New  England,  will 
be  found  at  all  points  on  this  route  .      ,■  ■ 

Jl^^  Passengers   entering  the   Mountains  by   one    of    the 
f  ftbove  routes,  can  return  by  either  of  the  others,  as  preferred. 


PORTLAND.  ;,„,,,. 

Tliis  City  is  very  advantageously  situated  on  a  peninsula  at 
the  western  extremity  of  Casco  Bay,  distant  108  miles  from 
Bostou,  60  from  Augusta,  the  capital  of  the  State,  293  from   ;i 


PORTLAND.  289 

Montreal,  and  670  from  Washington.  The  city  prcsentB  a 
beautiful  appearance  from  the  sea  and  the  Lslands  iu  the  bay, 
as  it  rises  like  an  amphitheater  l)€twecn  two  hills.  It  is  rogij- 
hirly  laid  out  and  handsomely  built,  and  has  some  fine  public 
edittces,  among  which  are  a  new  exchange  building,  con- 
structed of  granite  in  the  most  substantial  manner ;  a  spacious 
city  hall ;  a  court-house  and  jail,  and  20  churches  ;  a  custom- 
house, 10  banks,  a  theater,  and  an  atlieneum  containing  a 
library  of  several  thousand  volumes.  Tlie  present  population 
is  about  30,000.  On  an  eminence  called  Mount  Joy^  on  which 
Fort  Sumner  formerly  stood,  there  is  an  observatory  82  feet 
in  height,  being  elevat<?d  226  feet  above  the  ocean,  coramanfi- 
ing  a  fine  view  of  the  harbor  and  the  adjacent  country.  CaiOQ 
Bay  is  seen  lying  to  the  east,  studded  with  ishuuls  and  rocky 
islets,  said  to  amount  to  365  in  number.  On  the  north  is  a 
Iwdy  of  water  called  Back  Cove ;  the  city  is  immediately  on 
the  southwest,  and  presents  a  splendid  appearance  in  connec- 
tion with  the  harbor  and  shipping.  Cape  Eliziibeth  lies  on  the 
south,  3  miles  distant,  where  is  located  Cape  Cottage,  a  much, 
frequented  public  house  and  delightful  place  of  resort  during 
warm  weather.  Fort  Preble  stands  two  miles  southeast,  and 
commands  the  ship  channel  in  connection  with  Fort  Scammd, 
situated  on  an  island.  Beyond  it  lies  the  broad  Atlantic 
Ocean,  where,  during  the  fall  months  of  September  and 
October,  numerous  small  vessels  are  seen  engaged  in  taking 
mackerel.  MohtU  Washington,  the  highest  peak  of  the  White 
Hills  of  New  Hampshire,  distant  90  miles,  may  be  seen  on  a 
clear  day  by  looking  through  the  glass  here  used  in  the  ob- 
servatory, which  is  a  large  and  excellent  instrument  of  the 
kind.  Few  places  exceed  Portland  in  point  of  location.  Hav- 
ing an  extensive  back  country,  its  trade  is  large  and  import- 
ant ;  the  principal  articles  of  export  are  lumber,  fish,  and 
country  produce.  The  trade  with  the  West  Indies  is  wvy 
great,  also  with  Boston  and  New  York,  and  Southern  ports. 
Portland,  for  beauty,  picturesqueness,  and  variety  of  scenery 

in  its  viciuity,  is  deservedly  noted.    As  a  watering  pUioe  it  5a 

25 


290  RAILWAY    STATIONS   IN    BOSTON. 

justly  celebrated.    Nowhere  on  the  Atlantic  coaut  c.n  seekers 
after  health  and  pleasurt;  more  fully  realize  their  expectations. 


PRINCIPAL  HOTELS   IN   PORTLAND. 

American  House,  Congress  Street ;  Elm  Tavern,  Federal 
Street ;  United  States  Hotel,  corner  Congress  and  Federal 
Btreets  ;  besides  many  others  of  less  note  in  different  parts  of 
the  city. 

STEAMBOAT  AND  RAILKOAD  ROUTES. 

A  line  of  Steamers  runs  from  Portland  to  Boston,  108  miles  ; 
to  Hallowell,  61  miles ;  to  Bangor,  140  miles  ;  to  Eastport, 
230  miles,  and  to  St.  Johns,  N.  B.,  290  miles;  stopping  at 
many  of  the  intermediate  ports. 

EAILUOADS. 

Length. 

Portland,  Saco  and  Portsmouth  Railroad 52  miles. 

Grand  Trunk  Railway,  to  Montreal  and  Quebec 293      " 

Portland  and  Kennebec  Railroad,  to  Skowhegan 97      '* 

Maine  Central  Railway,  to  Bangor 138      '* 


The  State  of  Maine,  alike  celebrated  for  its  healthy  climate, 
sea-bathing  resorts,  and  picturesque  scenery,  is  annually 
visited  by  thousands  of  tourists,  seeking  health  and  pleasure. 

RAILWAY  STATIONS  IN  BOSTON. 

Stations. 

Eastern  Railroad Causeway  Street. 

Gloucester  Branch. "  " 

Boston  and  Maine  Railroad Hay  market  Square. 

Newbury  port  Branch '*  " 

Manchester  &  Lawrence  E.  R.         '*  '* 

Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad Causeway  Street. 

Nashua  &  Lowell,  and  Con- 
cord R.  R. . . "  *♦ 

Fiichburg  Railroad Causeway  Street. 

^  .     Cheshire  Railroad *'  ** 

Vermont  and  Massachusetts  '*  '* 

Boston  and  Worcester  R.  R Cor.  Beach  &  Lincoln  Sts. 

Western  Railroad "  *•  '♦ 

>-      JJorwich  and  Worcester  R.  R.  **   ,        **-       r    ;f^'*i    ; 


RAILWAY    ST^nONS    IN    B0ST3N.  291 

Boston  at  1  Providence  R.  R Pleasant  St.,  op.  Elliot  St. 

New  Bedford  &  Taunton  R.R.         "  •♦         '*    .  *  <, 

Stonington&Providt-TiceR.K.         '*  <•  «• 

Old  Colony,  Fall  River  mid  Newport 

R.R Cor.  Knceland  &  South  Sts. 

Cape  Cod  Railroad •'  '•  •• 

South  Shore  Railroad *'  "  •« 


EAILROAD  ROUTES,  DIVERGING  FRC  M  BOSTON,  EAST, 
NORTH,  AND  WEST-DISTANCES,  FARES,  Etc. 

Routes.                                                                   Miles.  Pare. 

Boston  to  Salem,  via  Eastern  Railway 16  $0  60 

Newburyport,   "            *'      36  1   10 

Portmoulh,  N.  I/.,  ''      "      66  170 

South  Berwick  Junction,  via  Port  Saco 

and  P.  R.  R 70  2  10 

Saco,     Maine,                        ♦'         "            95  2  60 
Portland*     '«                           **          **          108  2  60 
Brunswick,  **  via  Portland  and  Kenne- 
bec R.  R 135  3  60 

Bath  (Br.  R.  R.),  Maine,  "        "        "        144  8  76 
Gardiner,                ''        "        '*         '*        161 

Augusta,                   »*        "        *'         **        168  4  25 

Waterville,             **        *'        «*        ♦*        186  6  00 

Skowhegan,           **        "        ''        "        205  5  75 
Bangor,  via  Maine  Central  Railroad. .  . .  241 

Usual  Through  Time,  12  hours. 

Boston  to  Heading,  via  Boston  and  Maine  Railway . .     12  0  36 

Lawrence, t       "            "               "         . .     26  0  80 

Haverhill,         "            **              **         . .     33  1  00 

Exeter,              "            "               **         . .     60  1  40 

Daver,XN.H.,  *'            "              "         . .     68  1  80 

Great  Falls,  Br.,            '*              *•        . .     74  1  95 

South  Berwick  Junction,              "        . .     74  2  05 

Saco,  Maine 99 

Portland,^  Maine 112  2  60 

Danville    Junction,    via   Maine  Central 

Railroad 140 

Lewiston,                   ''        "            *'          147  3  10 


*  Trains  connect  .nri^h'  cAre  on  .Gira^«l  Tr'ml^  /^ilway,  running  to  the 
While  Mountains,  al^jbiltr^Jai,  anjiwQui^boc.  *-  .*,*,■'','*."  * 
t  Passenger  Cars  ruu  from  jBfostori  lo  ConcoaJdJncr'i^ifwrecibo.' 
X  C-ars  run  'ik<^'D<jfvvTioi4Llfoti*DHy,onJLa}ke^inu\phiogQe,' 
S  Conaeot  ^t}/yrain»an'.4raii(i  T/uhk'l<aUj¥Uy.  ■  \'  •   '  '  •  I  "      * 

*"    '    •        '•••'./;     '"    '  '      '.' 

'    '  t  t  »       ,    <    t  • 

♦     •  <  . 


202  RAILWAY    STATIONS    IN    B08T0N, 

.,      BouTES.                                                                Mile*.  Pare. 

Bo»tm  to  Wuttrvllle,  Me.,  via  Maino  Central  U.  R.,  1U5  $5  10 
Newport,         "           "          "             "   ..  223 

Bangor,             ♦*           "          "             "   ..  200  6  00 

Ukud  Through  Time^   12  hours. 

At  Bangor,  connects  with  Bangor,  OUUown  and  Milford  Bail- 
way,  and  Stjvgea  running  Eastward. 

Bosto7i  to  Ixnvell,  via  Boston  and  Lowell  R.  R 2(5     $0  80 

Nashua,  N.  H.,  via  Nashua  R.  U 39       1  25 

Manchester,  N.  H.,  via  Concord  R.  R &>       1  H5 

fo/tcurrf,  N.  H.             "                '*        ....  73      2  35 
Weirs  Station,*  via  Boston,  Concord  and 

I                   Montreal  Railway lOG 

Plymouth,!        *'          ♦'            *'        "  124 

Haverhill,            "           *♦            *'        ♦*  157 

WelUi  River,           *'           "             '♦        "  166 

IMkton,  via  White  Mountain  R.  R 183 

Franconia  Mts.,  by  3tage  12  miles 1U5 

White  Mountains,  by  Stage  22  miles 205 

Usual  Through  Time^  12  hours. 

Boston  to  Concord,  N.  II. ,  via  Boston  &  Lowell  R.  R.,  73  2  35 

Franklin,  via  Northern  (N.  H.)  R.  R. . . .  02  2  95 

West  Ijehanon,         *'              '•           "   142  4  15 

White  River  Junction,  J  Vt.,  via  Vermont 

Central  R.  R 143  4  15 

lloyalton,                         <♦         "         "  163  4  95 

Northlield,                       *'         "         "  197  6  26 

Movtpelier,                         "        "         *'  205  6  60 

Waterbury,  §                   *♦        **        '*  214  7  00 

Rssex  Junction,               "        "        «'  218  7  75 

Burlington,                        "         **        «*  247  8  00 

St.  Al bans, Vt.,  via  Vermont  &  Canada R.,  264  8  50 

Rouse's  Point.Wii.Y.,     "        *'         *'  287  9  00 

•  A  Steamer  runs  from  this  Station  to  Centre  Harbor,  Wolfboro,  etc., 
on  Lake  Winnipisiogce. 

t  Stages  leave  Plymouth  on  the  arrival  of  the  Cars  for  Franconia 
Notch  and  the  White  Mouniains.  ' 

^Connects  with  the.  Conn.  apd^Passurcpeis  liivers  R.  R.,  running 
North,,  'iad  wiih  cbeBuilwan  a-ndeC'onr.  Rive:-  Raii'vays,  running  Sooth. 

S  Pasi^enjiCerA  Iqp.Ys  at  this  fitauon  <V/r  .Ma*wflbld  Mountain  House. 

I  CoLiiaectii  "wJtti  i^orthem  (Ogdeugl^urgh)  Erilrouu,  118  milea  in 
lengtb.  ,,...♦•       ,       '  * ,  :\  e  0  '    o  '  :•  <>   ^-        •• 


p 


^..V.G    M^^^i^S,;^     lvVvA..^^f 


•<. 


RAILWAY   STATIONS    IN    BOSTON.  203 

•'  ^       Roimw.                                                                  Miles.  Far» 
Bosl^m  to  St.  John,  Canada,  via  Champluin  and  St. 

Ldiwrence  R 308  $ 

''  "         Montreal,                    "            **            "        331  10  50 

Usual  Through  7me,  15  hourf. 

Boston  to  Groton  June,  via  Fitch])urg  Railroad ....     85  1  10 

Fttchburg,         "           "''            *' 60  1  55 

Keone ,  N.  H. ,  via  Cheshire  R.  R 92  2  96 

Bellawn  Falls,''  Vt.,  v<a    "         "    lU  3  70 

Ludlow,  Vt.,  via  Rutland  &  Bur.  R.  R. .   141 

Rutland,  f  *'                "             •'           *'   . .   166  6  70 

Middlebury,  Vt,       "            "          "..199  6  95 

Burlington,  t    "           "             "           "   ••   234  8  00 

Essex  Junction,  Vt.  " 243 

St.  Albans, Vt. ,  via  Vermont  &  Canada  R. .  269  8  50 
Rouse's  J*mnt,N.Y.,vin  ''         '♦          "        292  9  00 
Montreal,  Can.,  via  Champlain  &  St.  Law- 
rence Railrojid   336 

Ogdent,burgh,  N.  Y.,  via  Northern  Railr'd.  410  10  00 

Usual  Through  Time^  20  hours. 

Boston  to  Worcester,  via  Boston  and  Wor.  R.  R 44  1  35 

Springrteld,§  via,  Western  Railway 98  2  80 

Pittsfteld,         "            ♦*        "        151  4  00 

Albany,\\N.Y.,  via       **         "        200  6  00 

Utica,  N.  Y.,  via  New  York  Central  R.R.  .295  7  50 

Rome,     "                   *'             *♦            •*       310  7  80 

Syracuse,  N.  Y.,        "            "            *•      348  8  56 

Rochester,    "             "             *♦            "       429  10  35 
Lockport,     *'             "             "            "485 

Buffalo,^       "            "            "            "      498  11  75 

Niagara  Falls,**  via     "             "            "      606  11  75 

Uimal  Through  Time,  20  hours. 


*  Connects  with  the  Sullivan  Railroad  and  Connecticut  River  Railroads. 
+  Passenger  C^ars  run  to  Saratoga  Springs,  Troy,  etc. 
X  Steamers  run  from  Burlington  to  Plattsburgh,  Rouse's  Point,  etc. 
§  Through  Traiv9/U|i  dinettt  to  NtW  Yyrk^  vi  rltayf  Ijaren^  ,  ^        >-. 
I  Connect  with  '.'Vfiijis  .^.r  Troy  aud  Carnto^n  Stiiini^.  ^  .  ^  j  <  v  .     „  .. 
5  Connect  with  Lake  Shore  Railroad  for  Cleveiaad,  otc. 
**  Connects  et  6uhpen"ion  HhUge  w^ti^  Oreeif  We^"t'im  Bailioay  of 
Canada,  for  06(4*0^  CAK^«,'^e^  *  «  . 


294  BTKAMOOAT    AND    RAILROAD    ROUTES, 

"steamboat  and  IIAIUIOAD  ROUTES  Tl 

FROM  N.  YORK  TO  BOSTON,  AND  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS 

The  Fall  River  Line  of  Steamers  leave  New  York  daily 
(Sundays  excepted),  at  5  p.m.,  from  Pier  No.  3,  North  Kivrr, 
for  Newport,  R.  I.,  and  Fall  River,  M;ih8.,  connecting  with  the 
Old  Colony  and  Newport  Jltilroad,  running  to  IViston.  DiBtance, 
2H4  ndlos.     Fare,  $6,     Usual  through  time,  13  hours. 

The  Stonliis^ton  Line  of  Steamers  leave  New  York  daily 
(Sundays  excepted),  at  6  p.m.  from  the  foot  of  Cortlandt 
Street,  North  River,  for  Groton  and  Stonington,  Conn.,  con- 
necting with  the  Stonington  and  Providence  Railway.  From 
Providence  c.irs  run  over  the  Boston  and  Providence  Railway 
to  the  city  of  Boston.  Distance,  220  miles.  Faie,  $5.  Usual 
time,  13  hours. 

1^  From  Boston  pafisenpers  are  conveyed  hy  various  routes 
to  the  White  mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  Portland,  Mou- 
treal,  Quebec,  etc. 

The  IVorwIph  Line  of  Steamers  leave  New  York  daily  ( Sun 
days  excepted),  at  5  p.m.  from  Pier  No.  39,  North  River,  for 
Allyn's  Point  and  Norwich,  Conn.,  connecting  with  the  Nar- 
vHch  and  Wtrrrester  Railroad,  and  vv'ith  the  Boston  and  Worcester 
Railroad,  running  to  the  city  of  Boston.  Distance,  232  miles. 
Fare,  $6.     Usual  time,  13  hours. 

|p|r  From  Worcester  passenger  trains  run  direct  to  Con- 
cord, N.  H.,  and  from  thence  to  the  White  Mountains,  afford- 
ing a  delightful  and  speedy  route  of  travel.  Distance  from 
New  York  to  the  White  Mountains,  about  400  miles. 

The  New  York  and  Riev  Haven  Railroad,  in  connection 
with  other  railroads  in  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts,  run- 
ning up  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  ^  !^iypr,  also  forms  a 
speedy  .^node  at*  G.(kti  eyahfee  it>  vho  WlJ^Jte  OToiyintalns.  Passen- 
ger Depfitr,  c<>mey  l^oiwih  .4^6*1  weii  and  ^enty-seventh  Street. 


ADVKRTIflKMKNTS.  205 


"New  Jersey  Steamboat  Go. 

PKOPLE'S  LINE. 


STEAMBOATS  LEAVE  FOR 


9 

daily,  at  Six  o'clock,  p.m.  (SundayH  excopted),  from  wliarf 
foot  of  Cortlarult  Street,  and  in  connection  with  tho 

IVEW  YOKK  €Ki\TUAL.  RAILROAD, 

for  Buffalo,  Suspension  Brld|i(c,  Cleveland,  Detroit,  and  all 
'Western  and  Northern  cltlest 


THE  STE.\MER9 

ST.  JOIIIV, Capt.  W.  H.  Feck, 


AND 


UENDRIK  HUDSOIV,  Capt.  S.  J.  Roe, 

composing  this  line,  are  in  all  respects  fitted  and  equipped 
with  an  especial  view  to  safety  and  comfort. 

THKOUOH    TICKKTS        / 

can  be  had  at  the  office  on  the  wharf,  and  baggage  checked 
to  all  stations  on  the  New  York  Central  Railroad,  and  the 
principal  cities  West.  '.* 

Freight  received  as  usual,  and  forwarded  with  dispatch,  and 
at  reduced  rates. 

For  particulars,  apply  at  the  office  of  the  Company,  on  the 
wharf,  foot  of  Cortl^dt  Street. 


200 


ADVERTISRMENTS. 


EVENING  STEAMBOAT  LINE 

FOR 

ALBANY  and  TROY. 


CONNECTING  AT  TROY  WITH  RENSSELAER  AND  SAR- 
ATOGA RAILROAD,   AND  TROY  AND 
BOSTON  RAILROAD  FOR 


Saratoga  Springs, 
Moreau,  L.  Oeorge, 
Fort  Edward,  N.  Y., 
Whitehall.  N.  Y., 
Castleton,  Vt., 
Butiaud,     " 


Williamstown,  Mass. 
North  Adams,     " 
Brandon,  Vt., 
Middlebury,  Vt, 
Vergonnes,     '* 
Burlington,    " 


Port  Kent,  N.  Y., 
Plattsbnrgh,    " 
St.  Albans,  Vt., 
Souse's  Point,  N.  Y., 
Ogdensburgh,      " 
Montreal,  Can. 


TilE  NEW  AND  FIRST-CLASS  STEAMERS 

FRANCIS  SKIDDY,  W.  H.  Christopher,  Commander,, 

TUESDAY,  THURSDAY,  AND  SUNDAY  : 

C.  VANDERBILT,  G.  0.  Tupper,  Commander, 

MONDAY,  WEDNESDAY,  AND  FRIDAY, 

At  6  o'clock,  P.  M.,  from  Pier  15,  North  Ri?er, 

FOOT  OF  LIBERTY  STREET. 


This  is  the  only  River  Line  that  connects  and  Checka 
Baggage  through  to  Saratoga  and  the  North. 

0.  U.  niLLOaf,  Agent,  Nev  ¥ork«      -^ 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


297 


DAY     BOATS 

BETWEEN 


LANDING  AT 

30th  Street,  N.  7ork ;  West  Point ;  Newburgh ; 
Poug^hkeepsie ;  Rhinebeck;  Catskill ; 
and  Hudson. 

Connecting  at  Albany  with  the  New  York  Central  Railroad 
for  all  points  West,  and  Northern  Railroads  and  Steamers  on 
Lake  Champlain  to  Saratoga,  Montreal,  and  all  points  North. 


These  Steamers  are  fitted  with  State  Rooms.     Breakfast  and 
Dinner  on  board. 


THE  STEAMBOATS 

l>A]VIEIi    I>R£W,  Captain  J.  F.  Tallmau, 

MONDAY,  WEDNESDAY,   AND  FRIDAY  ; 

CHAIJJVCEY   YIBBARD,  Capt.  Hitchcock, 

TUESDAY,  THURSDAY,  AND  SATURDAY, 
From  Foot  of  Debrosses  Street  at  Seven  o^clock  A.M. 

^^^  Returning,  leave  Albany  Daily,  from  the  foot  of 
Hamilton  Street,  at  9  a  m  ,  arriving  in  New  York  at  6  p.m. 

At  Hudson,  these  Steamers  connect  with  the  Cars  for  Leba- 
non Springs  and  Boston,  arriving  at  the  Springs  at  7^  p.m. 
Trains  leave  Albany  at  5.15  p.m.  for  Utica,  and  at  6  and  11.15 
p.M  for  Buffalo,  Niagara  Falls,  and  Suspension  Bridge. 

^^^  Baggage  to  Central  and  Northern  Railroads  delivered 
Free. 

^S*  Tickets  sold  on  board  to  all  points  West  and  North. 
Baggage  Checked  to  all  points. 


298 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


ifiiiifis  111  miMM 


1864. 


1861. 


FOR 


B  O  S  T  o  ]sr, 

Tia  Grotoii,   Stoiiiiigton,  and   Providence, 

Inland  Route — the  shortest  and  most  direct — carrying  tht 
Eastern  Mail.     The  Steamships 

PLYMOUTH  ROCK,  Captain  J.  C.  Geer, 

AND 

COMMONWEALTH,  Capt.  J.  W.  Williams, 


in  connection  with  Stonington  and  Providence,  and  Boston 
and  Providence  Rtiilroads.  leave  New  York  daily  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted) from  Pier  No.  18  North  River  at  5  p.m.,  and  Groton 
at  8  30  P.M.,  or  on  arrival  of  the  mail  train  which  leaves  Bos- 
ton at  5.50  P.M. 

The  Plymouth  Rock,  from  New  York— Monday,  Wednes- 
day, and  Friday.  From  Groton— Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Sat- 
urday. 

The  Commonwealth,  from  New  York — Tuesday,  Thurs- 
day, and  Saturday.  From  Groton — Monday,  Wednesday,  and 
Friday. 

Passengers  proceed  from  Groton,  per  railroad,  to  Providence 
and  Boston,  in  the  Express  Mail  Train,  reaching  said  places  in 
advance  of  those  hy  other  routes,  and  in  ample  time  for  all 
the  early  morning  lines  connecting  North  and  East.  Passen- 
gcrK  that  prefer  it  remain  on  board  the  steamer,  enjoy  a  night's 
rest  undisturbed,  breakfast,  if  desired,  and  leave  Groton  in 
the  7  15  A.M.  train,  connecting  at  Providence  with  the  10.40 
A.M  train  for  Boston. 

Fiire  from  Providence  to  Newport,  Fifty  Cents. 

|^°  A  Baggage  Master  accompanies  the  Steamer  and  Train 
through  each  way. 

For  baggage,  berths,  state-rooms,  or  freight,  apply  on  board 
the  steamer,  or  at  the  Freight  Office,  Pier  No.  18  North  River, 
or  at  the  office  of  the  Company,  No.  115  West  Street,  comer 
of  Courtland  Street.  .H.  R.  Slll'illS,  Agent. 

Fur  State  Booms,  apply  at  Habndbn'b  Exfbess,  No.  65  Broadway,  N.Y» 


ADVERTISEMENTS.  299 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


THE 

Makes  daily  trips  through  the  Lake,  connecting  with  the 
boats  on  Lake  Champlain,  Montreal,  Quebec,  and  Niagara,  and 
the  railwjiy  to  Saratoga,  Troy,  Albany,  and  New  York.  The 
Minnehaha  leaves  her  dock,  at  the  Fort  William  Henry  Hotel, 

.  every  morning,  Sundays  excepted,  at  half  past  7  o'clock — 
steams  down  the  Lake  amons  ihe  islands,  and  through  to  Ti- 
conderoga,  connecting  with  Lake  Ohamplain  steamers  going 
north  and  south ;  returning  in  the  afternoon,  upon  the  arrival 

•  of  the  Lake  Champlain  steamers,  to  her  dock  at  the  Fort  Wil- 
liam Hotel  at  6  o'clock. 

^^*  Passengers  by  the  Hudson  River  Railroad  (two  trains 
daily)  arrive  at  the  Lake  in  time  for  Tea  same  day  ;  by  the 
Hudson  River  steamers  (night  boats)  in  time  for  Dinner  the 
next  day. 

THE  NEW  AND  ELEGANT  STEAM- YACHT 

Is  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  guests,  and  will  leave  her  dock 
at  a  moment's  requisition,  for  any  point  on  the  Lake.  She  is 
also  particularly  available  for  moonlight,  pic-ni^-,  and  tishing 
excursions. 

N.B.— Telegraph  now  finished  to  the  office,  connecting  witn 
all  Lines  through  the  State. 


300  ADVERTISRMKNTS. 

LAKE    CHAMPLAIN. 


THE  NEW  AND  SPLENDID  STEAMERS 

OP  THB 

C|ainpMn  Cransportatiflii  Companf, 

VIZ., 

AMERICA Capt.  Mayo, 

CANADA "     Flaog, 

UNITED  STATES "     Andkehon, 

Will  make  Two  Daily  Lines  between  Whitehall  and  Rousk's 

Point  (Sundays  excepted;. 

Leave  Whitehall  at  10.45  a.m.  and  8.45  p.m.,  on  arrival  of 
the  Morning  and  Evening  Trains  from  the  South  and  We.st  ; 
arrive  at  Burlington  at  5  p.m.  and  4  a.m.,  and  at  Plattsburgh 
and  Rouse's  Point,  mornings  and  evenings,  in  time  to  connect 
with  Trains  for  Moxtiieal  and  Ogdknsburgu. 

Passengers  wuo  leave  New  York  by  the  Evening  Boat  will 
arrive  at  Montreal  and  Ogdensburgh  the  next  evenirg.  Tliose 
who  leave  New  York  by  the  11  a.m.  Train,  Hudson  River  Rail- 
road, will  arrive  at  Whitehall  at  8.45  p.m.,  and  Montreal  next 
morning  at  9  o'clock,  and  Ogdensburgh  at  I  o'clock  p.m. 

GOING  SOUTH — Leave  Rouse's  Point  every  morning  and 
evening,  on  arrival  of  the  Trains  from  Montreal  and  Ogdens- 
burgh, and  via  Plattsburgh,  Burlington,  and  Ticonderoga,  ar- 
rive at  Whitehall  at  6  a.m.  and  4.30  p.m.,  connecting  with 
Trains  for  the  South  and  West. 


THE  NEW  AND  BEAUTIFUL  STEAMER 

MONIHEAL Capt.  Mato, 

Will  make  Daily  Tri^s  between  Burlington,  Port  Kent,  Port 
Jackson,  and  Plattsburgh.  •  -ri 

^^  These  Boats  are  not  excelled,  either  in  speed,  neatness, 
or  comfort,  by  any  other  Boats  afloat.     .   ,;  ^,^^y  , .5^   ^_   ,:„      , 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


301 


Lake  Oiitiirio  and  River  St.  Lawrence. 

ontarTo  ^Seamboat  CO. 


1864, 


1861. 


liiiiKii  rmm  mi. 

BAY  STATE, Capt.  J.  J.  Morley. 

ONTARIO, Capt.  J.  B.  Estks. 

ALEXANDRA, Capt.  J.  N.  Bockus. 

Formin^i^  a  Tri-Weekly  Line  between 

TORONTO  AFD  MONTREAL. 

Touching  at  CHARLOTTE  (Rochester)  Mondays,  Wednes- 
days, and  Fridays,  at  10  a.m.,  for 

Oswego,  Jacket's  ^^arbor,  Kingston,  Clayton,  Alex- 
andria Bay,  Brookville,  Morristown,  Frescott, 
Ogdensburgh,  Montreal,  and  Quebec. 

Connecting  at  Sacket's  Harbor  with  Stage  for  Watertown, 
and  at  Kingston  with  the  steamer  Bay  of  Quinte  for  Belleville 
and  Picton,  and  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  both  East 
and  West,  connecting  at  Ogdensburgh  with  the  splendid  new 
steamer  Alexandra,  for  Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  Northern 
Railroad  for  Boston  and  all  points  East :  at  Prescott,  with 
Prescott  and  Ottawa  Railroads  for  Ottawa. 

g^  Trains  leave  Buffalo  from  New  York  Central  Railroad, 
Exchange  Street  Depot,  at  6.45  p.m.,  and  connect  with  Steam- 
ers at  Charlotte  (Rochester  Landing). 

Tickets  can  be  purchased  at  the  Company's  Office,  opposite 
Erie  Street  Depot ;  at  the  Niagara  Falls  Depot ;  and  at  the 
Union  Ticket  Office,  No.  17  Exchange  Street,  Buffalo. 


H.  N.  IHBOOP,  Oen.  Snp't. 


26 


M.  BANDALL,  Agent, 


302  ADVERTISEMENTS. 

Lakes  Huron  and  Superior. 

THE  MAGNIFICENT  UPPER  CABIN,  ROYAL  MAIL  STEAMER 

D.  McLean,  Master, 
Will  leave  COLLINGWOOD  for 

Owen  Sound,  Shebawananing,  Little  Current, 

Bruce  Mines,  Sault  Stei  Marie,  Michipi- 

caten,  and  Fort  William,  as  under : 

Leaving  CoUlngwood  for  Owen  Sound  and  Sault  8te.  Marie,  and  inter- 
mediate ports,  every  Thursday,  at  Noon,  on  arrival  of  Toronto  trains. 

June 2,*  9,  16,*  23,*  80* 

July 7,  14,*  21,  28,* 

August 4,  11,*  18,  25,* 

September.......  1,  8,*  15,  22,*  29 

October 6,*  13,  20,*  27, 

November 3,*  10,  17,  24, 

*  Runs  to  Fort  William,  North  Shore  Lalce  Superior. 

Rbturnino,  leaves  Sault  Ste.  Marie  for  Collingwood  and  intermediate 

porta — 

June... 7,  13,  21,  27, 

July 6,  11,  19,'  26, 

August 2,  8,  16,  22,           30 

September.......  5,  13,  19,  27, 

October 3,  11,  17,  25,           81 

November 8,  14,  21,  28, 

This  trip  of  more  than  one  thousand  miles  along  the  north  shore  of 
Lakes  Huron  and  Superior,  embracing  scenery  which  for  grandeur  and 
beauty  is  not  equaled  on  this  continent,  presents  to  the  tourist  for  plea- 
sure or  health -including  the  splendid  Trout  Fishing  in  the  numerous 
rivers  and  among  the  thousands  of  islands,  more  real  attractions  than 
can  be  found  on  any  other  route  ! 

The  Algoma  is  a  new  and  powerful  Double-engine,  Side-wheel 
Steamer  (built  expressly  for  this  route  last  season),  is  fitted  up  with  large 
Double  State  Rooms  the  whole  length  of  the  vessel ;  and  has  accommo- 
dation for  over  One  Hundred  Passengers. 

^if"  Pleasure  Parties  from  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  for  Montreal  or  Quebec, 
will  be  taken  at  Reduce<l  Rates  of  Fare,  connecting  at  Toronto 
with  Royal  Mail  Line  of  magnificent  upper  cabin  Steamera,  leaving  daily 
at  Three  o'clock  p.m.  ;  also  with  Capt.  Milloy's  splendid  new  Steamer 
City  of  Toronto,  for  Niagara  Falls,  Bufialo,  New  York,  and  Boston. 

^f"  For  further  information  regarding  Passages  or  Freight,  apply  at 
the  Office  of  the  Northern  Railway  Company  ;  or  at  the  OflBce  of  the 
Lakes  Huron  and  Supbeioe  Steam  Navigation  Company,  60  Front 
Street,  Toronto. 

Geo.  Kwart,  Geu.  AgL  E.  Mi.  CARRUTHSSRS  &  CO. 


ADVKRTI8KMENT8. 


303 


OrUWA  RIVER  MAIL  STEAMERS 

1864.       .    F-/r>.ts:^fel  i  1864, 


MONTIIEAL  TO  OTTAWA  CITY, 

DAI1.Y  (SUNDAYS  EXCEPTED). 

THIIOIJ QH    IN    TKN    HOIJRSI 


llie  splendid  new  fast-sailing  Steamers, 

PRINCE  OF  WALES Capt.  H.  W.  Shepherd- 

QUEEN   VICTORIA Capt.  Bowie. 


A  TRAIN  LEAVES  the  BONA  VENTURE  STREET  DEPOT 
MONTREAL,  EVERY  MORNING  (Sundayri  excepted)  at  7 
o'clock,  to  connect  at  LACHINE  with  the  Steamer  "  PRINCE 
OF  WALES"  (Breakfast)  for  CARILLON,  passing  thrc^ugh 
Lake  St  Louis,  St.  Anne's  Rapids,  and  Lake  of  Two  Moimtains. 
From  Carillon  by  Railroad  to  Grenville,  join  the  Steamer 
•'  QUEEN  VICTORIA"  (Dinner)  for  Ottawa  City. 

Downward,  the  Steamer  "  QUEEN  VICTORIA"  leaves  Ot- 
tawa City  at  6.30  a.m.,  Passengers  arriving  at  Montreal  at 
4.30  P.M.  in  time  for  the  Quebec  Steamers. 

The  comfort  and  economy  of  this  Line  are  unsurpassed,  whil* 
the  Route  passes  through  one  of  the  most  picturesque  districts 
in  Canada,  and  is  the  most  fashionable  for  Tourists. 

Parties  desirous  of  a  pleasant  trip  can  obtain  Return  Tickets 
from  Montreal  to  Carillon,  valid  for  one  day,  at  single  fares. 

Passengers  for  the  celebrated  CALEDONIA  SPRINGS  will 
be  landed  at  L'Original,  where  Coaches  are  in  readiness  to 
convey  them  to  the  Springs. 

f^  Further  information,  as  well  as  Return  and  Excursion 
Tickets,  may  be  obtained  at  the  office,  83  Great  St.  James 
Street,  next  door  to  the  American  Church,  at  the  Bonaventure 
Street  Depot,  or  on  board  the  Steamers.  ;,,   .  j 

,*..  .  w-  .«i....«..         B-  W.  SHEPHERD,  Manager. 


804 


ADVElVriSBMBNTS. 


^  GRAND     EXCURSION 

TO   THE   FAR-FAMED 

Rf¥£3  Sft€UEMY 


AND 

iw  A   To)  /Sv  in^ 


AT 


vV 


MURRAY  BAY  AND  CACOUNA! 


THE  MAGNIFICENT  IRON  STEAMER 

<«  MAOMET,''  Captain  J.  B.  Fairg^rievc, 

(Running  in  connection  with  the  Steamers  of  the  Bichelieu 
Company)  will  leave  Napoleon  Wharf,  Quebec,  every  Tuesday 
and  Friday  morning  during  the  Season,  at  8  o'clock,  for  the 
River  Saguenay  to  Ha!  Ha!  Bay,  calling  at  Murray  Bay, 
River  Du  Loup,  and  Tadousac. 

^®**  No  expense  or  inconvenience  in  exchanging  boats  at 
Quebec  ;  in  every  instance,  the  Steamers  are  brought  along- 
side of  each  other. 

This  splendid  Steamer  is  built  in  water-tight  compartments, 
of  great  strength,,  and  equipped  with  every  appliance  for 
safety,  and  acknowledged  to  be  one  of  the  best  sea-boats 
afloat.  She  is  fitted  up  with  large  Family  State  Rooms,  most 
comfortably  furnished,  and  in  every  respect  second  to  none 
on  the  Canadian  waters. 

Return  Tickets  good  for  the  Season  at  Reduced  Fare,  or  any 
Information  may  be  obtained  on  application  at  the  office,  21 
Great  St.  James  Street. 


MoNTBBAL,  June,  1S64. 


ALEX.  MII.L.OY,  Agcut. 


ADVERTI8EMKNT8,  305 


NEW  YOEK  CENTRAL  R.R. 

Foil   ALL   PLACKS   IN   THE 

WEST,  NORTH,  AND   CANADA. 

lime  of  Leaving  the  City  of  i>jew  York: 

T.OO  A.m.  From  iludson  River  Railroad  Depot,  Chamborft  Street, 
(rid  Albiiny  or  Troy),  arriving  in  niifTalo  and  Niagara 
Falls  at  10.15  p.m.,  ctjnnectlng  for  all  i)oirU8  West. 

7.00  A. in.  Fi*"in  foot  of  Desbrosaos  Street,  near  Canal,  North 
River,  clt'gunt  new  Day  Boath,  coniM'otinix  al  Albany 
witb  KvcninjQC  Tmins,  arriving  in  Iinfr;do  and  Niagara 
Falls  at  6.00  a.m.,  connecting  tor  all  j)oints  West. 

10.00  A.J^.  From  Hudson  River  Rnllrond  Depo',  ('lianibers  Street, 
arriving  in  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  at  6.00  a.m  ,  con- 
necting for  all  points  West. 

10.00  A.m.  From  llarlem  Railroad  Depot,  corner  Twenty-sixth  St 
and  Foiirlb  Avenue,  arriving  in  Buffido  and  Niagara 
Falls  at  6.00  a.m.,  connecting  for  all  points  West. 

4.00  P.rH.  From  Hndson  Ri  er  Railroad  Depot,  Chambers  Street, 
arriving  in  Ro-diester  at  7.45  a.m.  ;  Buffalo  arid  Niagara 
Falls  at  11.00  A.M. ;  connecting  for  all  points  West. 

5.00  I*. in.  (l^fti'y)  From  Harlem  Railroad  Depot,  corner  Twenty- 
sixth  Street  and  Fourth  Avenue,  arriving  in  Rochester 
at  7.45  A  M. ;  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  at  11.00  a.m.  ; 
connecting  for  all  points  West. 

0.00  P.m.  (^aily)  From  Hudson  River  Railroad  Depot,  Chambers 
Street,  arriving  in  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  at  11.00 
A.M.,  connecting  for  all  points  West.  '(W°  Sunday 
Nights  this  train  starts  from  Thirtieth  St.  at  6.22  p.m. 

0.00  l*.m.  (r>»ily''  From  foot  of  Cortandt  Street,  Peoplk's  Link, 
elegant  Ne\  Steamers,  connecting  with  the  7.15,9.00, 
and  10.00  a.m.,  and  12.30  p.m.  trains  from  Aili;my,  arriv- 
ing in  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  same  evening. 

10*410  P.m.  From  Hudson  River  Railroad  Depot,  Chambers  Street, 
with  Sleeping  Cars  alta<!hed,  arriving  in  Albany  al  6.80 
A.M. ;  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  at  8.00  p  m.  ;  connect- 
''  ing  for  all  points  West. 

Klegant  SL.E:ii:PIi\G  CARS  attached  to  all  IVlgHt  Trains, 
and  SMOKING  CARS  to  Day  Trains  on  this  Route. 


Baggage  by  this  Route  is  checked  to  all  principal  points  West, 

C.  B.  GREENOUGH,  C.  VIBBARD, 

Passenger  Agent,  289  Broadway,  N.  Y.  General  Sap't,  Albanj,  .  ) 


306 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


GREAT  NORTHERN  RAILROAD 

AND 

STEAMBOAT  ROUTE. 


ln^1l.^V 


New  York  to  Albany,  Troy,  Saratoga  Springs, 

Lake  George,  Burlington,  Montreal,  etc.,  via 

Rensselaer  and  Saratoga,  and  Saratoga 

and  Whitehall  Railroad,  and  Lake 

Champlain  Steamers. 

PafiscTif^crs  leavinj?  New  York,  Troy,  and  Albany,  l)y  Day 
Line,  will  take  boat  at  Whitehall  at  10. nO  a  m..  and  on  the 
passage  through  Lake  Champlain  will  have  an  extensive  view 
of  the  Adirondfieks  of  New  York  and  the  Gri:<'n  Mountains 
of  V(!rraont — will  pass  near  the  old  Forts  (^f  ( 'rown  i'oint  and 
Ticondero.ga — arriving  at  House's  Point  at  B>A.')  p.m.,  in  time 
for  cirs  to  Mtmtreal  and  Ogdensburgh  sami;  evkmno. 

Passengers  for  Northern  and  Eastern  New  England  will 
leave  boat  at  Burlingt(m  4. 45  p.m.,  and  take  tlic  train  of  tlic 
"""ermont  Central  Ridlroad  .at  8  p.m.,  whieh  is  provided  wifh 
elegant  Sleeping  Cars,  passing  through  M()nt])elier,  Coneord, 
Lowell,  Nashua— arriving  at  Boston  at  8am.;  or,  lodp.ingat 
Burlington,  leave  at  7.25  a.m.  for  the  Whit-.!  Mountains,  con- 
neeting  with  the  roads  to  all  the  prineipal  place  s  in  New  En- 
gland SAMK  day. 

Passengers  leaving  New  York,  Troy,  Albany,  by  Night  Line, 
will  take  boat  at  Whitehall  at  8.45  p.m.,  reach  Burlington  at 
3.45  A.M.,  and  Plattsburgh  at  5.80  a.m.  ;  and  from  either  j)la(e 
take  Ciirs,  arriving  at  Montreal  at  9.00  a.m.,  and  Ogdensburgh 
at  12  M. 

FARE    AS    LOW    AS    ANY    OTHER    ROUTE. 


THROUOH    TICKETS 

Can  be  obtained  at  all  the  Ticket  Offices  of  the  Hudson  Rivkr 
Railroad  ;  M.  Canfield,  Pier  15,  foot  of  Liberty  Street,  New 
York  ;  on  l)oard  Hudson  River  Steamers  ;  Union  Depot,  Troy, 
N.  Y.  ;  Northern  Albany  Railroad  Depot,  Albany. 

General  Office,  239  Broadway,  New  York. 


ADVERTISEMENTS.  307 


Troy 


and  Boston  Eailroad. 

GREAT  NORTHERN  U.  S.  MAIL  ROUTE  FOR 

Rutland,  Burlington,  St.  Albans,  Rouse's  Point, 
Montreal,  Ogdensburgh,  and  Boston. 

A  NIGHT  LINE  BETWEEN  TROY,  MONTREAL  AND  BOSTON 

NEW  AND  SPLENDID  SLEEPING  CARS. 

Tbrough  to  Montreal   In  Ten  Hours  and  a  Half,  i^'ithout 

Chan|[^c  of  Cars  I 


Passengers  leaving  Troy  by  this  route  at  8  a.m.,  will  reach 
Rouse's  Point  and  Montreal  nearly  three  hours  in  advance  of 
those  leaving  by  Boat  Line  at  7  30  a.m.  Passengers  leaving 
Troy  by  Fast  Express  Train  at  12.80  p.m.  will  arrive  at  Bur- 
lington and  all  points  North  same  time  with  those  leaving 
five  hours  earlier  by  any  other  line.  Fare  as  low  as  by  any 
other  route. 

Trains  leave  Union  Dei»ot,  Troy,  Daily  (Sundays  excepted), 
as  follows : 

8.00  A.M.,  Mail,  via  Western  Vermont  and  Rutland  and 
Washington  Roads,  arriving  at  Rutland,  11.40  a.m.  ;  Btillows 
Falls,  2.12  p.jj. ;  Fitchlmrg,  6.05  p.m.  ;  Boston,  7  30  p.m.  ;  Bur- 
lington, 4.00  P.M.  ;  St.  Albans,  6.00  p.m.  ;  Rouse's  Point,  7. 00 
p.m.  ;  Montreal,  9.00  p.m.  ;  Ogtlensburgh,  12.00  night. 

12.30  P.M  ,  Express,  via  Western  Vermont  Road,  arriving 
at  Rutland,  3.45  p.m.  ;  Burlington,  6.00  p.m.  ;  St.  Albans,  7.25 
p.m.  ;  Rouse's  Point,  9.00  p.m.  ;  Montreal,  ILOOp.m. 

4.45  P.M.,  Accommodation,  for  North  Adams,  Benning- 
ton, and  all  stations  on  Rutland  and  Washington  Railroad, 
due  at  Rutland,  9.00  p.m.  Trains  leave  next  a.m.  for  East, 
4.00;  for  North,  4.30. 

10.00  P.M.,  Sleeping  Car  Express,  via  Western  Vermont 
Road,  arriving  at  Rutland,  1.15  a.m.,  Burlington,  4.05  am.  ; 
St.  Albans,  5.40  a.m.  ;  Rouse's  Point,  7.00  a.m.  ;  Montreal, 
9.30  a.m.  ;  Ogdensburgh,  12  noon  ;  Boston,  7.30  a.m. 

NEW  YORK  TO  TROY,  MONTREAL,  ETC. 

This  Road  connects  with  Steamers  from  Wfew  York,  and  the 
Hudson  Ulver  Railroad,  forming  a  direct  and  speedy  route 
of  travel  from  New  York  to  IHontreal. 

I.  V.  BAKKR,  Sup't,  Teot,  N.  T. 


808 


AUVKKT16EMKNT8. 


eiMT  Ufflf  ML  I 


CARllYINO    TIIU    UliKAT    U.    8.    MAIL.. 


.If 


Great  Western  Railway 

HKVWKKN 

niagara  falls,  s|[spe:^sion  bridge,  anl) 

i)i:troit, 

Forming,  wifh  its  connoctions,  tho  shortest  and  best  route 
between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Mississippi.  Three  Through  Ex- 
press Trains  e;ich  way  daily.  Luxurious  sle(;pin^  cars  attach- 
ed to  each  niu^ht  train.     Smokinjj:  cars  to  all  day  tr-  '  is. 

^1'  Uie  I'asscnijjer  ('oaches  on  this  road  have  attached  to 
,ii  ventilator,  by  means  of  which  tlu;  interior  is  kept  cool 
»>ni  •  tirely  i'ree  from  dust  in  summer,  uud  uniformly  warm 
i»^     inter. 

As  the  trains  pass  across  the  magnificent  Suspension  Brid<?e, 
tlie  finest  views  of  Niagara  Falls  and  Niagara  Kiver  can  be 
obtained. 

No  other  railroad  line  West  that  passes  within  23  miles  of 
Niagaia  Falls  and  Suspension  Ihidge. 

American  funds  received  at  par  for  Through  Tickets  and 
8leeping-car  berths,  and  at  all  refreshment  rooms. 

f^  Baggage  checked  through  to  all  important  points, 
'are  as  low  as  any  other  route. 
(p^  Through  Tickets  by  this  route  are  for  sale  at  all  the 
principal  Ticket  Ofiices  in  the  United  States  and  Canada. 

THOMAS   S WIN  YARD,  Gen.  Manager,  Hamilton,  C.  W. 
JAMES  CHAULTON,  General  Agent,  Hamilton,  C.  W.       ,  : 

Agents.  '     -    ,  r 

Geo.  E.  Jara'^is,  P.  K.  Randall, 

273  Broadway,  New  York.  21  State  St.,  Boston. 

T.  N.  Derby,  T.  D.  Barton, 

Ogdensburgh,  N.  Y.  175  Washington  St.,    ^" 

Buflfalo,  N.  Y. 

".¥>''  .t«.--T  ,«■-'■■■'     ',    :'7-rfu\?'.i 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


309 


1861. 


To  Tourists  aud  Tra>  filers. 


IStfl. 


NEW  AND  UVirOHTANT  AUUANGEMENT. 


GRAIB  TRUIE 


AND 


ROYAIi  MAIL  LINE 


OF 


THROUGH    STEAMERS. 


1861.  _i 


186I, 


NIAGARA  FALLS  to  MONTREAL, 

QUEBEC,  RIVER  SAGUENAY,  WHITE  TidOUNTAINS, 
LAKE  GT:0RGE,  SARATOGA, 

ETC.,  ETC.,  ETC.    *  {See  nextjpag6. 


310 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


THE  FOLLOWING  MAGNIFICENT  UPPER  CABIN  STEAM- 
ERS  COMPOSE  THE  LINE  : 

GRECIAN,  (new  iron)..Capt.  C.  Hamilton.       «-. 

PASSPORT,  (iron) Capt.  KeUey. 

CHAMPION, Capt.  D.  Sinclair. 

KINGSTON,  (iron) Capt.  T.  Howard. 

MAGNET,  (iron) Capt.  J.  B.  Fairgreaves. 

BA(\fSHEE, Capt.  H., Swales. 

CITY  OF  TORONTO,  (new)  Capt.  D.  Milloy. 


NO  TRANSHIPMENT  AT  OGDENSBLniGH. 


The  only  line  by  which  Passengers  can  retain  their 
State  Rooms  through  the  entire  tri}),  and  passing  the  scenery  of 

The  Ihonsand  Islands,  and  iiapids  of  the  River  St^  Law* 

rence  by  Daylight. 

This  great  route  possesses  peculiar  advantages  over  any 
other,  as  by  it  parties  have  their  choice  of  conveyance  between 
Niagara  Falls  and  Quebec,  over  the  whole  or  any  portion  of  it, 
without  being  obliged  to  decide  when  purchasing  their  tick- 
ets, consequently  should  the  weather  prove  unfavorable,  pas- 
sengers may  avoid  Lake  Ontario  by  taking  the  Grand  Trunk 
Road  to  Kingston,  and  from  thence  by  one  of  the  above 
Steamers,  making  close  connections.  No  extra  charge  for 
Meals  and  State  Rooms. 

1^  The  only  route  to  the  White  Mountains  by  which  par- 
ties can  ascend  the  far-famed  Mount  Washington  by  the  Car- 
riage Road. 

The  Steamer  iraagnet,  commencing  1st  July,  leaves  Quebec 
for  the  far-famed  taguenay  every  Tuesday  and  Friday,  a.m. 
Also  Trains  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  leave  Point  Levi 
daily,  for  River  du  Loup,  at  which  point  they  can  also  take 
the  Saguenay  Steamer. 

AMEETCAN  MONEY  TAKEN  AT  PAE  FOR  TICKETS 

by  this  Line,  which  can  be  obtained  at  most  of  the  principal  cities  in  the 
United  Stares.  Arrangements  huve  also  been  made  with  the  proprietors 
of  the  principal  hotels  at  Toronto.  Montreal,  and  Quebec,  to  take  Ameri- 
can Money  at  par,  charging  New  Yorit  hoiel  rates. 


ALEX.  MILLOY,  Gen.  Agt, 

Royal  Mail.  Link  Steamkks, 
Office,  Gt.  Bt.  James  St.,  Montreal. 


£.  P.  BEACH,  Gen.  Agt., 
Gband  Tbunk  Eailwat, 
JJT9  Broadway,  New  York, 


ADVERTISEMENTS.  81 1 


1864.   ^^msBiga   1864. 


GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY 

SEA  BATHING 

PL.l]A$i)URE     EXCURSIOM     TICKETS. 

TADOLTSAC,  RIVIERE  DU  LOUP,  CACOUNA, 
PORTLAND,  AND  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


RETURN  TICKETS,  valid  until  November  Ist,  will  be 
issued  on  and  after  the  15th  June,  at  the  following  Reduced 
Rates : — 

TO  TO  TO 

T.«       FROM  Tadousac        Biv.  du  Loup        Portland 

and  back.  and  back.  and  back, 

DETROIT,    ....  $25  00  $23  00  #24  00 

TORONTO,    ....  20  00  18  00  20  00 

KINGSTON,      ...  14  50  12  00  16  00 

MONTREAL,     ...  8  50  6  00  10  50 

QUEBEC,      ....  6  50  3  00  12  00 

Tadousac.  which  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Sagucnay  River,  is  considered  to  be  one  of  the  most  salubrious 
places  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  Tadousac  Hotel  Company  have  erected  a  commodious 
Hotel,  which  has  been  elegantly  furnished  and  fitted  up  in  a 
manner  to  afford  to  guests  the  greatest  possible  comfort.  The 
accommodation  is  most  ample,  and  charges  moderate. 

J^  A  Steamer  will  run  daily  between  Tadousac  and  Riviere 
du  Loup,  and  three  times  a  week  up  the  Saguenay  River  to 
Ha!  Ha!  Bay. 

A-t  Cacouna,  the  Hotel  accommodation  for  visitors  has  been 
greatly  increased. 

A  regular  Line  of  Stages  will  run  between  Riviere  du  Loup 
and  Cacouna. 

j^^  For  further  information,  Time  Tables,  and  Tickets,  ap- 
ply to  the  agents  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  ; 

E.  P.  Beach,  General  Agent  C,  J.  BRYDGBS, 

27i>  Broadway,  New  York.        .  Managing  Director. 


312  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


EASTERN  EAILROAD. 


iriBnriiTfiTifnwifjii 


y"^/*^- 


BOSTON  AND   PORTLAND. 

Trains  leave  Portland  for  Boston,  arrivinj?  at  the  new  station 

on  Causeway  Street,  at 

8.45  kM,  and  3.00  P.M.  in  Summer. 

8.46  A.M.  and  2.30  P.M.  in  Winter. 

Tliese  Trains  arrive  in  Boston  at  1.45  and  8.00  p  m.  (7.30  p.m. 
in  Winter),  in  season  to  connect  with  Trains  for 

NEW     YORK      AND      THE     WP^ST. 


Trains  leave  Boston  for  Portland,  at 

7.30  A.M.  and  3  00  P.M.  in  Summer, 
7.30  A.M.  and  2.30  P.M.  in  Winter, 

Connecting  with  Eailroada,  Steamboat!!,  and  Stages,  to  all  parts  of 

MAINE    AND    CANADA   EAST. 


FREIGHT    TRAINS 

Daily,  each  way,  leaving  Portland  and  Boston  at  6.00  p.m. 
X^rclglit  Office  In  Boston,  ti5  Mer«lut»ts  Row. 


The  Eastern  Railroad,  which  is  t])e  great  United  States  Mail 
Route  between  Boston  and  the  East,  connects  at  Brock's  Cross- 
iuiiC  with  the  Great  Falls  and  Conway  Railroad,  and  at  Port- 
land with  the  Maine  Central,  Androscoggin,  and  Portland  and 
K(mnebec  Railroads,  for  Augusta,  Watervillc,  Farmington, 
Bangor,  etc.  Also  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  for  the 
White  Mountains,  Montreal,  Quebec,  etc.,  and  with  Steamers 
for  Eastport  and  St.  Johns,  N.  B. 

J.  PRE  SCOTT,  Sup't,  Boston. 


ADVEUTISKMKNT8.  313' 


Bi^STi)N  AND  ^AIHE  RAILEOAD. 


Tin  RosTON  Axn  Maine  Railroad,  connecting  with  the  Portland, 
Snco,  jirid  Portland  Riiilroad  through  to  Poktland. 

Tlii.s  routf  is  (loxervi'dly  populHr  with  travelers  to  and  from  the  Stato 
of  Muine.  1  he  Station  in  Boiton  heing  located  on  Hayinarket  Sqiiurc, 
18  very  nearly  in  tlie  center  of  l)U.sinc38. 

P-ssencjiTS  leaving  Hoston,  cross  Charles  River  by  a  bridge  to  Somc- 
Tille.  paaying  tiic  MassacIuiseltH  State  Prison  on  the  right  at  the  crossitig 
of  the  Fitchburg  liuilroad  in  Ciiarlestown  ;  also,  the  Bunker  Hill  Mm.un. 
niont  in  tlie  ilistanci' ;  theuee  the  road  cro>se3  Mystic  Kiver  to  Maiden, 
ihe  Medford  Piranih  diverging  on  the  left.  At  South  Reading  Junction 
the  youth  Rending  Branch  (to  Salem)  and  the  Newburyport  Railroad  di- 
verge ;  the  laat-nanicd  road  is  operated  by  the  Boston  snd  Maine  Rail- 
road Company,  and  is  a  pleasant  and  expeditious  route  to  the  fine  old 
Bcaport  town  o*"  Newburyport. 

South  Reading  and  Reading  are  large  villages  to  be  seen  on  the  right 
as  you  pass  on  to  "Wilmington  (Salem  and  Lowell  Railroad  cross-s  here), 
"Ballardvale,  and  Andover.  The  next  place  is  South  Lawrence,  opposite 
t4ie  thriving  manufacturing  city  of  Lawrence,  on  the  Merriinac  River. 
Trains  cross  the  river  below  the  dam  with  passengers  for  the  city,  and  to 
connect  with  the  Concord,  Manchester,  and  Lawrence  Railroad  lor  Man- 
chester, Concord,  and  the  Wifite  Mountains. 

Pitsfiing  through  Andover  to  Bradford  (dunction  of  the  Newburyport 
Railroad),  and  then  crossing  the  Merrimac,  the  large  town  of  Haverhill 
is  reached,  which  is  the  center  of  an  extensive  boot  and  shoe  manufac- 
turing business. 

The  towns  of  Atkinson,  Plaistow,  Newton,  East  Kingston,  Exeter, 
l^outh  Newmarket,  Newmarket  Junction  (passengers  for  Portsmouth, 
Mnnchcsitcr,  and  Concord  change  cars  here).  New  Market,  Durham.  Mad- 
biiry,  N.  H.,  are  successively  p.-issed  until  we  reach  the  town  of  Dover, 
the  peat  of  a  large  manufacturing  business  and  junction  witii  the  Dover 
and  Winnipiseogi.'e  Railroad,  over  which  road  passengers  for  the  Lake 
and  White  Monntains  are  conveyed  to  Alton  Bay,  there  connecting  with 
the  Steamer  Chocorfia  lor  Wolfsiwro'  and  Centre"  Harbor. 

Rollinsford  is  the  next  town,  and  is  the  junction  of  the  branch  to  Great 
Falls,  three  miles. 

Aff.er  passing  Salmon  Falls  we  come  to  South  Berwick  Junction,  con- 
nectin>^tliore  with  the  Portland,  Saco,  and  Portsmouth  Railroad,  continue 
on  fo  North  Berwick  and  Wells,  Kennebunk,  Kenuebunk-port,  Bidde- 
ford,  Saco,  and  Scarborough,  to  Portland,  Maine. 

Pai^sengers  for  towns  on  the  Grand  Trunk  and  Maine  Central  Railroads 
keep  their  seats  until  they  reach  the  Grand  Trunk  Depot.  Passeiiyers 
for  the  Kenutbcc  and  Portland  Railroad  clian^e  cars  at  the  Portland, 
Saco,  and  Portsmouth  Railroad  Depot.  A  t  Portl.ind,  connect  with  Steam- 
er^ for  Baugor,  Eastport,  Calais,  and  St.  John,  N.  B.  , 

27 


314  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


1,  „ "r-  ■"■.I."  -  -1-..  'J-|.-« 4>^«^~ ••> 

I-  11,1'  Mtnmt  .ijv"  gtuD  Mm  nvf 


VIA  THE 


Vermont  Central  R.E.  Line, 

TO 

mount  Mansfield,  White  and  Franoonia  Moun- 
tains, Lake  Champlain,  Lake  George,  Saratoga, 
Niagara  Falls,  Lake  Ontario,  Thousand  Isl- 
ands, Hapids  of  the  River  St.  Lawrence, 

m\ml  (Quebec,  Sagmnaj  libtr,  ttt.,  tk. 


This  Route  passes  throiij]:h  the  Valley  of  Vermont,  which  has 
the  most  Splendid  Scenery  in  New  England  ! 

MANSFIELD   MOUNTAUST 

is  the  highest  land  in  Vermont,  being  about  5,000  feet  high, 
giving  a  magnificent  view  of  the  whole  range  of  the  Green 
Mountains,  and  scenery  that  is  not  excelled  in  the  Union. 

The  Vermont  Central  Line  is  the  most  direct  Route  be- 
tween Boston  and  Montreal,  and  Quebec  ;  between  Boston  and 
Ogdensburgh,  Niagara  Falls  and  Canada  West ;  between  New 
York  and  Montreal,  either  via  Springfield  and  Connecticut 
Biver  Railroad,  or  via  Albany,  Troy,  or  Saratoga. 

Tickets  for  this  line  will  be  on  sale  in  Boston,  New  York, 
Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Washington,  etc.,  etc.,  giving 

Round  Trips  at  Reduced  Rates, 

which  will  be  advertised  in  the  papers. 


For  any  further  information,  apply  at  the 

GENERAL  AGENCY,  NO.  5  STATE  STREET,  BOSTON. 

8.  H.  FISHER,  Trav.  Agrt  L.  MILLIS,  Gen'l  Agt  . 

Boston,  May  28, 1861  .   ., 


ADVERTISEMENTS 


315 


iiternAital  Sleiimslji)!  €b. 


■u 


DESIRABLE   PLEASURE   ROUTE 

FOR 

EASTPORT  and  CALAIS,  Me.;  ST.  JOHIV,  N.B.; 
HALIFAX,  N.  S. ;  and  CHARLOTTETOWN, 
Prince  Edward  Island. 


THE     BUPERIOK     NEW     SEA-GOINO     RTEAMEES 

NEW    EBraLAXVD, 

Capt.  Field  ;  and 

NEW    BRITNSWICS, 

Capt.  Winchester, 

leave  Commercial  Wharf,  Boston,  every  Monday  and  Thurs- 
day morning  at  8  o'clock  ;  and  Portland  aime  evening  at 
5  o'clock,  for  Eastport,  Me. ;  and  St.  John,  N.  B.  Returning, 
leave  St.  JoiTN'  same  days. 

At  Eastport  the  Steamers  connect  with  tho  Steamer  Queen, 
for  St.  Andrew's,  N.  B.  ,  from  thence  per  Railway  for  Houltoa 
and  Woodstock  Stations — also  Calais  and  St.  Stephens  :  at  St. 
John  with  the  European  and  N.  A.  Railway  for  Sliediac,  and 
from  thence  per  Steamers  for  Prince  Edward  Island  and  Pictou, 
N.  S.,  north  shore  New  Brunswick,  and  Quebec,  Canada. 
Also  at  St.  John  with  Steamers  for  Fredericton,  N.  B.,  Digby 
and  Windsor,  N.  S.,  and  from  thence  per  Railway  for  Hali- 
fa:v,  N.  S. 

Fares. -Boston  to  Portland,  $1  50;  Eastport,  $5  60;  Ca- 
lais, $6  60  ;  St.  John,  N.  B.,  $6  60  ;  Halifax,  N.  S.,  $10  Oa 

J.  B.  COYIiS,  General  Agent,  Pobtlans,  Mi. 


316  ADVERTIPKMENTS. 


IlICMKr.rKU  COM  I' A  NY'S 

Mill  iwii  ii:;;^  nil 

OF   STEAMERS 

BET  W  KEN 

MONTREAL  AND   QUEBEC. 

The  Large  Upper  Saloon  Steamers, 

MONTREAL Cupt.  Cottf, 

EUllOPA "     Lapeli.r, 

Leave  Montreal  and  Quebec  daily  (Sundays  excepted),  every 
eveninij,  affording  to  passengers  a  delightful  trip  be'tween 
these  two  places  of  interest  to  all  Tourists  in  Canada,  stopping 
at  SoREF,,  Three  Rivers,  and  Batisoan. 

The  comfort  and  economy  of  this  Line  are  unsurpassed,  while 
the  Route  passes  through  one  of  the  most  picturesque  districts 
in  Canada,  and  is  the  most  fashionable  for  Tourists. 

American  Money  taken  at  current  rates. 


MONTOEAL  TO  THREE   RIVERS. 
Steamer  Three  Rivers,  Captain  Joseph  Duval. 
Steamer  Napoleon,  Captain  Robert  Nelson. 

Steamer  Victoria,  Capt.  C.  Davelny,  runs  between  Mon- 
treal and  Sorel,  C.  E. 

Steamer  Chambly,  Capt.  F.  Lamoureux,  runs  between  Mon- 
treal and  Chambly,  C.  E. 

Steamer  Terrebonne,  Capt.  L.  H.  Roy,  runs  between  Mon- 
treal and  L' Assumption . 

Steamer  L'Etoile,  Capt.  P.  E.  Malhoit,  runs  between  Mon- 
treal and  Terrebonne. 


f^  For  further   information   apply   at  the  Office,  No  29 
Commissioners  Street,  Montreal. 

J.  B.  LAMERE,  General  Manager,  Montreal. 


318 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


TJ  IS  TO  IS      II  ^  L  L, 

SARATOGA   SPRINGS. 


This  well-known  Hotel  is  pleasantly  located  on  the  west 
side  of  Broadway,  opposite  the  celebrated  Congress  Spring,  and 
commands  a  view  of  the  beautiful  park  connected  with  it. 

By  the  addition,  just  finished,  of  a  handsome  brick  building 
two  hundred  and  forty-one  feet  long,  by  fifty-five  feet  wide, 
and  five  stories  high,  it  is  much  the  largest  Hotel  in  the  place, 
having  a  front  of  over  one  thousand  feet,  and  can  accommo- 
date over  one  thousand  guests.  In  extent  and  completeness 
the  Dining  Hall,  Kitchen,  and  Laundry  are  unsurpassed  in 
this  country.  -   .  .  •    i     U,  •,:i'  > 

The  court  inclosed  by  the  buildings  forms  a  lawn  of  several 
acres  in  extent,  intersected  with  well-shaded  walks.  Here  a 
fine  band  of  music,  belonging  to  the  house,  contributes  to  the 
enjoyment  of  the  guests  every  afternoon. 

The  management  of  Union  Hall,  we  trust,  will  meet  with 
the  approval  of  all  who  may  honor  us  with  their  patronage. 

LELAND  &  CO.,  Proprietors. 


STANWIX     HALL, 

Corner   o€    Broadnray   and    mCaideii   Liane^ 

ALBANY,    N.  Y., 

At  thb  JiTNCTTON  OF  THK  Nkw  York  Centbal,  Hudson  Biteb, 
Haklkm,  Eastern  and  Nobtukbn  Bailboads. 


IP.  Ttii>:Bii,        f' 


Formerly  of  West  Point ;  St.  Germain,  New  York ;  and  Pavilion, 

Bockaway,  L.  I., 

Respectfully  informs  the  public  generally  that  he  has  leased 
the  above  well-known  Hotel,  and  refurnished,  greatly  im- 
proved, and  put  it  in  complete  order,  in  every  department,  as  a 
FIRST-CIiASS    HOTEL, 

F.  R.  assures  his  friends  and  the  public  that  no  exertion  will 
be  wanting  on  his  part  to  merit  a  continuance  of  that  patron- 
age  he  has  hitherto  so  liberally  enjoyed. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


310 


lllf  llllll  IIM  HIL 


The  Fort  William  Henry  Hotel  is  situated  on  the  site  of 
Fort  William  Hknry,  adjoininLf  Fort  (Ieoiuje  and  tlio  old 
French  IJuryinu;  and  Battle;  Grounds.  The  house  is  furnisiied 
in  a  style  not  surpassed  by  any  city  l)otol.  The  building  is 
;i37  feet  in  lenj^^th,  with  rear  wing  of  250  feet,  and  has 

Handsome  Accommodations  for  500  Guests, 

The  rooms  are  airy,  large,  and  in  8uits  or  Private  Parlors, 
as  may  be  desired.  Water  is  brought  from  a  mountain  spring, 
one  mile  distant,  and  carried  to  every  part  of  the  house, 
where  are  furnished 

COlO  AND  WARM  BATHS* 

The  Public  Parlor  is  87  by  42  feet,  fronting  on  the  Lake, 
and  magnificently  furnished.  The  house  is  brilliantly  lighted 
with  gas,  made  on  the  premises,  and  guests  will  therefore  not 
be  subject  to  any  disagreeable  smoke  or  smell  from  oil  or 
camphene. 

Ifi  engage<l  for  the  season,  and  will  perform  upon  thci  Piazzas 
during  the  day  at  dinner,  and  in  the  Public  Parlor  until  1 1 
o'clock  P.M.,  for  those  who  wish  to  while  away  an  hour  in 
dancing. 

Lake  George  is  celebrated  for  its  fine  trout,  Oswego  bass, 
pickerel,  and  other  fish,  which  are  served  up  daily  at  this 
hotel. 

A  Livery  Stable  is  connected  with  both  houses,  together 
with  an  abundance  of  stable  and  barn  room.  Persons  wisliing 
to  bring  their  horses  and  carriages  to  the  Lake,  can  have  pri- 
vate stables  and  carriage- houses.  The  drives  on  the  liake 
Shore  and  through  the  surrounding  country  are  unsurpassed. 

Steamers  from  New  York  to  All^ny  and  Troy  have  in- 
closed apartments  for  hi^rsi.'s  and  carriages.  Parties  can  leave 
New  York  at  six  p.m.,  with  horses,  etc  ,  and  arrive  at  the  Fort 
William  Hotel  on  the  succeeding  day.  The  driving  distance 
from  Troy  to  Lake  George  is  52  miles,  over  a  good  turnpike 
voadi 


320  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


ST.  LAWRENCE  HALL, 

GREAT    ST.   JAMES   STREET, 


H.    HOGAN,    PKOPllIKTOR 


Ttiis  First-OIass  Hotel  (tho  largest  in  Montreal)  is  sitnated 
on  Gn^at  St.  James  Street,  in  front  of  the  Fn^nch  Cathedral, 
or  (yhurch  Ville  Marie,  Notre  Dame  Street,  immediately  adja- 
cent to  the  Post  Office,  Place  d'Armes,  and  Banks  ;  is  only  one 
minute's  walk  from  the  Grey  or  Black  Nunneries  ;  New  Court 
House,  Readini^  Rooms,  Champ  de  Mars  (where  the  troops  are 
reviewed),  Mechanics'  Institute,  Bonsecours  Market  and  Fash- 
iona))le  Stores 

8ti  Lawrence  Hall  has  long  been  regarded  as  the  most 
popular  and  fashionable  flotel  in  Montreal.  It  has  Ixien  under 
the  chaige  of  its  present  pr(»priet()r  over  ten  years,  llie  l)uild- 
ing  presents  a  front  of  siome  300  feet  on  Great  St.  James  Street, 
with  a  depth  of  over  'MM)  feet,  and  has  over  800  apartments, 
every  one  of  which  is  lighted  by  gas. 

NOTRE  DAME  STREET, 

MONTREAL. 
ST.  JULIEN  &  MCKEOGH, 

PROPRIKTORS. 


llkWh  HOTCl 


GKKAT    ST.    JAMES     STKKKT,      . 

MONTREAL. 


S.    BROWNING,    PROPRIETOR. 


ADVKRMSKMKKTfl.  321 


Pa  LACK   STiiKKT,    QUKBKC. 

Tho  iibovo  comfortaldo  and  well-known  ostubllshment,  hav- 
inf^  been  thoroughly  renovatcKl  and  ictittccl  durini^  tho  wint(!r 
recuKm,  id  re-opcncd  for  the  iH;ception  of  guests.  The  under- 
signed confidently  hopes  that  this  establishment,  in  connec- 
tion with  the 

ST.   L.OIJIS   H^i'TEL   (late  Clarendon), 

will  afford  ample  accommodation  not  only  to  his  numerous 
friends  and  patrons  during  the  a[)pr(>aching 

.SESSION    OF    PARLIAWENT, 

but  also  to  the  traveling  community  during  the  coming  busi- 
ness and  pleasure  season. 

WILLIS  RUSSELL,  Proprietor. 

QuBBKC,  May,  1S64. 

TORONTO,    C.  W. 

"       Caffain  THOMAS  DICK,  Proprietor. 


This  House  ia  beautifully  situated  on  Front  Street,  near  tho  Railway 
Station  and  Steamboat  Latidings,  and  commands  an  extensive  view  of 
tlie  Harbor,  Islands,  and  Lake. 

r:*f"  Carriages  and  trusty  porters  in  attendance  on  the  arrival  of  all 
Trains  and  Boats. 

THE    RUSSELL    HOUSE, 

■f    >.f  OTT.A.-W-A.,    C  "VST". 

The  unuerslizned,  proprietor  of  the  above-named  Hotel,  bega  leave  to 
acquaint  his  numerous  friends  and  the  traveling  public,  that  he  has  re- 
painted and  newly  furnished  throughout  this  commodious  establishment, 
in  the  management  of  which,  by  strict  personal  attention  to  his  businesi 
and  guests,  he  hopes  to  deserv'e  encouragement  and  support 

.    Ottawa,  June,  1864.  JAMBS  A.  GOUIN. 


S22 


ADVKRTISKMKNTS. 


ADVBRTISBMKNTS. 


323 


CONGRESS    SPRING. 


Much  npurioiis  Min«rul  Water 
Ih  8old  as 

*•  Congress  Water/' 

by   unpnnci|>!ed     persohs,    who, 
wlicri   tliey   dare    not    uac  that  ,, 
name,  call  it  *•  Saratoga  Water,"  L; 
although   Saratoga    is  only   the   ' 
n?un«    of   the    town  where  the 
Spring  is  Kituatcd. 

'1V>  prottct  tlie  public  from 
such  imprjsitions  we  have  all  the 
corks  branded  with  C.  &  W.'s 
stvmp, 

"CONGRESS  WATER." 


i--   ^  *t 


CONOEEaS   tiPEINO. 


Congress  Water  Orders  addressisd  to 

CLARKE  &  WHITE, 

AT   rilKIR   SOUTHERN    UKPOT, 

No.  9§  Cedar  Street,  New  York, 

OK  AT 

Saratoga  .Spriug^s 

WILL   BK   PROMPTLY    ATTKNDBD   TO. 


(D®M(S]IIi-1i  ^:lFIS!MO  WATW.M 


As  anulyaed  by  Dr.  Jokn  If.  Strbl, 
at  the  Spring. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 885,000 

Hydiiodate  of  Soda,  3,600 

Bi-Carbonatc  of  Soda S,9S2 

Bi-Ciirhonate  of  Magnolia..  95,7-8 

OurtM>«ate  of  Lime 98,0^9 

(  urlxmate  of  Irou 6,076 

SiU'X  atid  Alumina 1,600 

Ilydro-bromate  of  Potash,  a 
trace 000 

Solid  contents  in  a  gal h>n..  .597,943 
Carbonic  Aoid  Gas.Sll 
Attnospiieric  Air. .      T 


Analysis  made  In  London  by 
Sir  lIuMPUKEiL  Davy  and  Professor 
Farauat    from    Congress  Water 
bottled  Seven  Months. 

OiniiM. 

Chlof  ide  of  Sodium 8S5.44 

Hydriodate  of  Soda 4.0i 

Carbonate  of  Lime llfi.OO 

Carbon at(»  of  Magnesia 56.80 

Oxide  of  Iron 64 

Carbonate  of  Soda 66 

Hydro-broiuate  of  Potash,  a 
trace. 00 


Qaseows    contenta  ( „.«  .,,»,i^  i_ .i, 
in  a  gaUou, S  Solid  contents  in  a  gallon. . .  .608.48 

CI.ARKE:    A:    WHITK, 

-  V  -  ,     Proprietors  of  Congress  Spring. 


324  ADVKRTISEJIKNTS. 


EMPIRE  SPRING  WATER. 

The  Empiee  Spring  was  purchased  by  D.  A.  Knowlton  in 
1861,  and  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  a  Stock  Company  in  18fiH. 
Tliis  water  is  better  adapttd  to  general  use  than  any  other 
Mineral  Water  on  this  continent.  It"  is  more  widely  efiica- 
cious  as  a  remedi^al  agent  than  the  water  from  any  other  min- 
eral spring.  This  opinion  is  sustained  by  eminent  medical 
men,  and,  what  is  still  more  important,  by  the  actual  experi- 
ence of  thousands.  The  public  are  fast  becoming  convinced 
of  this,  for  it  is  a  well-known  fact  tli-^t  the  owners  of  Congress 
Ki)rirTg  have  sold  a  very  large  amount  of  water  for  years,  and 
yet  the  Revenue  Tax  paid  by  that  Spring  the  last  twelve 
months  proves  that  in  some  of  the  best  business  months  the 
Empire  Spring  Company  have  sold  and  shipped  more  water 
than  the  Congress. 

Saratoga  Spkinos,  June  8th,  1864. 

D.   A.  KNOWLTOflT, 

.   t  Pres't  Saratoga  i'!mpire  Spring  Co. 

SouTHEUN  Dkpot  18  John  St.  New  York. 


SARATOGA   WATER-CURE, 

Opposite    tliii    "CoH^jreM^   Spriaag    Park." 

OPKN    AlA.    THK    YEAK. 


THIS    IS     ONE    OF    THE    LARGEST    W  ATr-ll-OURES    IN    THE   COUNTRY, 

ACCOMMODATING  ABOUT  TWO  HUNDKED  GUESTS. 


It  is  pleasantly  located.  The  rooms,  especially  in  the  brick 
part,  are  large,  airy,  and  well  furnished.  Persons  visiting  the 
Springs,  either  for  health  or  recreation,  ct:n  be  accommodated 
with  a  quiet  home,  good  wholesome  food,  experienced  medi- 
cal advice,  and  other  facilities  for  restoration  and  enjoyment, 
which  would  make  their  stay  here  pleasant  and  profitable. 

.,^.^ ,      N.  BESOSTHA,  M.D.,  Proprietor  and  Physician. 


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\l  /       7m<(t \ T •>;:>J--."j4 V---4v f       ,      1  r   ,/  ,         U--  y ">}''"</ f >'i  • 


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), li  ^^ih"^'^r^c  \i\%.  -  y"Jii 

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I'. 


Itlniig 


lluntuif 


'nift(l.iym\  SfU'iip^ilc 


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S't.,,      CAriAL, 


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V     I! 


BAIIHOAD  ROUTES  IN  CANADA,  Ac. 


tbiirg 


t,,m>^,^^  r'-^    tV 


tk:^ 


^«:>«'^ 


=W^J>!^-''ttr».^0    -S^^^     v^''  -^  MJfit^  .'    P^rM'*"!!*°^"°*'''*''*'^«''«»d  Trunk  Railway 

Wmki:'     ,  ^"'tlanrt  to  Quebec, «>  wuiway, 

f#M/ ' .       ^"«^«c  *o  R! viore  du  Loup 

Mm      ,    "«'»'>-««l  ^0  Rouse's  Point.  N, ' f ?? 

**|      ..Montreal  to  Toronto,.  "^^ 

I  ;,  .    Toronto  to  Sarnia,  (A,ot  Lain," Ou;jn.):: . ; Jjo 

|)|;:       8arma,C.  W.,  to  Detroit.  Mich ^f 


9        V) 

-iii^n^'    4^^ — -^_^> 


«.iv7i;  ilPhmi^^frr^tCi'^r'^lL  \IHk  -if'     ■  i^*^    f' 

149  /mjT  i     /£  llF^f-'--.'; 


MilM. 

.294 
.818 


n ! 


^"17 


M'i'  Hn.nil*,.«    *..  r,...,_. 31 


yVyAiT/.i 


^4^ 


Hamilton  to  Quelph, '[ 

London  to  Sarnia 


Vth 


i^'^-i 


Toronto  to  Collin«rwood, 

Buffalo  to  Ooderich,  0.  W., ... 
Port  Hope  to  Lindsay,  C.  W  , 

Prescott  to  Ottawa  City, '. 

Brock vflle  to  Ottawa  Ri'v«r,'..', 
8t.  Johns  to  Waterloo,  C.  E.,.', 


6H 
9 

39 
.28 
.61 
.94 
169 
.43 
.64 


.43 


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iwi^ 4 


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CANALS  m  CANADA. 

Rideau  Canal, 

Welland  Canal  ""^ 

St.  La wrencvCani ::;■;". ^^ 

Beauharnois  Canal,.. ..V,; ^1 

La  Chine  Canal,  ...       ^'* 

8i 


Knttrv^  aefcrtHnp  t„  ..i,.,  ,,,•  ^. 


■on,n-a..y   ,„    ,h,-j:a.}m    7;v^S 


""•"■■11    in  III,    cU;la-  vm^^!r 


""■  ""■"'•••'  '''^7!nwI^!T!5I^ 


I'lxln,;  ,,/'.v,.w   r,rt 


^^mm^ 


Jh/ihy/i,;/  /ly  ,/.  /)/. 


;Aj^JAL.      JiAJL    JiDAD'     b.     3 "/ i! A J>J  13 OA"/    iiOU"! 


DA,  fto. 

ay 294 

i 318 

12(i 

44 

383 

1 69 

, m 

>it,  Mich 229 

! 39 

28 

r 61 

! 169 

1 43 

i 64 

I 

■••••I..... .43 

t 130 

, 28 

: 21 

lU 

84 


PRlNril'AI.    RAIL  ROAU  ROT^'ras 

llnimtSh  tliv  MiiliUi'.NoilUfni  ami  Kfislpni  Slnlos. 

Troiu  ■Wiishiii^'lou  fo  H/ilriiiuitv 

■  l!aliiiiuirt>  1(1  W)i<M'liiii^.Va. 

■  Jtidtuuurc  to  Hiirnnburg.JVjiii. 
••  JliiltimoTp  to  niil;iilt'l;ihi,i 

■  nii'ladiaphia  to      Piltslnii-V  Pa 

■  PliOiuiclphia  to  l'i)tlsvillt> 

■  Phfladplplria    to  NcwTork.Via  Tjwrton 

•    lliilailelphia    tc  Ntnv  York ^n  Cnridpii  ?cAmbo.y Hail  Uoail 

■  UewTorkio   CliaOMin    I  Tornors 

•  H^pw  York  to    Dirliliiik 
NewTork  to  rnvmipurl   I,..I. 

■  Hiia.siui  to  Wtist  Stockluiflpe  .MrtSfi. 

'     AU):na,y  to NiJw  Ywk  Ti,i  non.satoiiicl'.Mil  lUiad 

•  Albany  to  Saifituya  .Spi-iiinH 
Alhini.v  to  BuniUo  a)u.-oct  HouM 

■  Jtuflalo  to  Nlaoaia  Fnlls 

■  JttRCara  falls  to  I)«."h-oif.  Alicli, 

■  Sjniciisf  til  OsH'oiji. 

•  Tmy  viaSaratofa  Stu-iiio's  to  Wbitdi;i  II 
Ttxry  to  Rutlaud.  Vt. 

Altiaiiy  to  bostim.  vja  .'Spjiiirfit'ld 

■  JlostiTii  to  r'oTtJaml  Mo.  viH  Ivistprii  Hail  Hoai! 

•      Hosloii  10  J'oitlaiol    via  Boston  and  .Maiiio  RailJloail 
Ho.-Ooii  to  roni'iird   N.ll,  via  l.owtVH 
Hostoii  via  I'ltdibiipp- Mas.s.  to  Hollows  Kails  \'t. 

■  lio.sloit  to  New  Hortloru  M.tss. 

■  llO.<tOJl    to    I'tN-lMOllIll      .M.1SS. 

■  Hostmi  to  NewYni-l<   via  Spi-iusffjold  and  NowIIavoTi 

■  liostini  to  Nhvi'  York  via  Nmnvidi,  *:  ,S.  D .  lUuHo 

■  l!oSUrri  to  KowTork  via  Stoninoton 
llosion  to  .W'w  VltiIj  via  FnTI  Uivor 

••     I'uftlaiiil  III  ttarijjor.  Mo. 

I'am-ordviH  ^V^•..«I  liPtiamrn.Nn.  to  Kin'limfloii 
llellowsTall.t  to  Bui-hiuftoii  Vt 
HuilsoiilUvfrKJ?  XYortito  Alban>' 


1 

IIU'II 

•K)  .Milos 

pTom  Washiutft 

•}7f) 

'nioiire  b.\ 

85      . 

■      H;iliiiii()ti' 

'99     .. 

Jl;tlthnoi-p 

353     .. 

i|'           Wliniii^clnu 

M3      ,. 

1             ITiiladiiljilri 

08     ■. 

'       •      PMIadrfplu 

.'•0 

■•     NpwToi'k  t 

i:ii 

NewYorlt  t 

WiO 

•      TJewYork  t 

m     ■ 

iS'ewYink  1 

3:\ 

NrtvYinls  t 

i!u; 

N«wYiirk  t 

.•1!"         1 

New  York  t 

2!)» 

■     NowTorlj.  t 

1***                      1 

•       iliO.StOR   to  1 

Z.to 

■      Bost  Tl   to  J 

:t;.     . 

•     roiflaiid  tt 

72     .. 

■     rortlauii  tc 

«.■! 

Hoston  to 

^'('11 

■      CaJdwoJl  to 

1(1,1 

■     ■WhitohnTl  t 

III 

Thwirp  li_\ 

74     ..        i 

:.     ••     Os-wet'b  10  3 

III 

Motitiv.al  tt 

,"i; 

■      l).<wpy'ii  to 

.-i- 

■     lAnvistoii  t( 

2;f;l 

•      Lpwistou  u 

!';!;(           1 

Unffiiln  to  ' 

21«i 

•     Buiralo  to 

•-'Hi;      .       I 

•'     Huflalo  to 

IU5            i 

Hiifl'alo  to  ( 

171            1 

■     Huffido  to  < 

iia 

lu 

It'.i.v/n'/H/^'ii 


7f\ 


n\y^    s  I  A  I  Lb 


III         -,(1 


I'll) 


sc.\i.K  n|-  M  ii.iis 


')^t  iiou-r^c). 


ililfs      Froi 


rillXril'AL   STKA^mDAT  ROl^ITiS- 

iiWashiu^'toii  to  Mouih  Acjiiia  (VPt-k  mi  1  lie  rmoiriac  ,^l  MUps 

TlitMice  1i,vK;iill<o,T(i  111  iUcliDionil  Vm.  71; 

HMlU'iiidtv  1(1  Xiirfolk  Vh.  j,i,i 

JJaJtiiii(in>  III  J'UilMileJpliia.Tia  Chesapeake  8;DplawaifH.T3s  Uti 


10 


M'ilniiHClou  ])t'l.  to  lliiladetjilna 

ITiihidiiljilrin  to  Trtjif  May 

PMladrfpliia  I0  Tiviitcm  LV..I. 

I^pwToi-k  tu  Albany 

NevrYoj-k  to  IVoj 

^'evrYol•k  to  Hj-idglFpoi't   t'oim. 

Xew  Voile  to  yowriavru 

NpwVm-ls  to  All.fns  roim 

ISV-wYiii'k  to  Stouingiou 

New  York  to  ft-inidpiice 

IJi-wYork.  to  FiiTI  Kivor  '  via  Xowpovl 

Jiostim  to  roiilaml  Jlo. 

Host  r   to  Jiaiiybr  Me. 

raii]aiui  to  HallowpH 

rorQanil  to  Baus'tn- 

Ho.«to3i  to  St^lolm?  NB. 

0;ildwi>ll  to  Ticimdwooa   on  l,;il.-.' iuhu'o'c- 

■WhitoJiaTl  t(i  StJotms.rajiaila 

Thm.T  ti.vRail  Hoad  Jt.^toaniboat  10  Mmitrpal 
OswegVi  toMoiiti-nalviti  (loVlpjishurofi 
Mtnitival  to  (^lulipc 
O.'iwpiyti  to  Lpwiston 
l.t'wjsiim  10  riatiiiltoT)  l';uuula 
l.pwisionto  Monn-oal.via  Toromo  aiut'  ICinostini 
UivD'iiln  to  Tolrdn.  llliin 
ButFalo  In  J)ptmit ,  Midi, 
Bulihlo  to  niieaob  Jl 
JHdi'alo  to  ilii|ipewa.raTiflda 
Buffalo  to  Siuuiiiskv.  Ohio 


32 
PO 
30 

113 

1.10 

60 

73 

I2(t 

l;ui 

l.'iii 

lii.t 

|(i,-, 

243 

HI 

1.10 

•1(10 

.•It! 

1.-0 

J4 

;^07 

I  HO 

loO 
.■iti 

.l;i7 
.":'(! 

1.1)47 
20' 
I' 50 


